Do-it-yourself well: detailed overview instructions for self-construction

Here you will learn:

• Types of wells
• Types of wells
• Well design and functions
• Selecting a location
• Choosing the time of year
• How to dig a well
• We protect the structure from surface water
• Setting up a well
• Increased frost resistance
• Commissioning
• Tips and precautions for building a well yourself
• When is it better to build a well and when to build a well?

A well at the dacha is installed if the depth of the aquifer is no more than 15 meters. Otherwise, it is more advisable to drill a well. As a rule, the well is equipped with reinforced concrete rings.

Water well: purpose, types, construction

A water supply inspection well is an important part of communications, which allows for scheduled and emergency repairs, maintenance and installation of water supply networks. We will look at the types of such wells, methods of building them, and show how you can build a well for water supply with your own hands.

To service critical areas or components of the system, water wells are constructed.

Choosing the time of year

Is there a difference when it's better to dig? Yes. The ideal time of year is late summer and January. To cut a spring in winter, there must be frost for at least three weeks.

Digging during this period has its advantages:

• The groundwater level is very low.
• There is practically no perched water.
• It is easy to calculate the debit, since at this time of year it is minimal.

If you plan to dig yourself, with your own hands, then you need to start in early August in order to be in time before the rainy season.

Important: the selected time of year should be as dry and dry as possible.

Purpose and varieties

The structure can block two pipelines at once.

Wells installed on water supply networks are designed for various purposes, the main ones being:

• Monitoring the locations of branches, intersections and turns of main pipes. As is correct, any network is divided into straight sections, at the beginning and end of which wells are installed to access the pipes in the event of an accident or planned events. In addition, it is the places of turns and branches that contain couplings and flanges, which are most often subject to leaks;
• Possibility of access to the locations of shut-off, control and shut-off and control valves. Often, at the places of intersections and branches of pipes, various fittings are installed to control flows, for access to which a well is built;
• Location of pumping stations, metering devices and other equipment. A number of various devices are placed directly on the line, and they are not covered with earth. To accommodate such devices and access to them, special tanks are built;
• To receive and drain water flowing out due to an accident or planned drainage, special receiving and drainage wells can be installed on the water supply system;
• In autonomous water supply systems, a well can serve as a source of drinking water or play the role of a caisson above the wellhead;
• Inspection and maintenance tanks are also installed where pipes enter houses or pass through other obstacles.

The photo shows how the well is used to provide personnel access to system control points.

Important! As you can see, the purpose of a water well may be different, but all of them are intended for activities related to the control, repair or maintenance of water supply networks.

Thus, depending on their purpose, structures can be divided into types, among which are:

• Inspection wells. Designed to control various critical components and areas;
• Engine rooms and equipment placement stations. Pumps, meters, gearboxes and other equipment are installed here;
• Control points where valves, taps, valves and other controls for system parameters are located;
• Drainage wells designed to collect, absorb and drain water.

The reservoir can house a hydraulic accumulator and other equipment.

An example of a drainage structure is a wet well on a water pipeline. It is needed to drain water from the system in case of repair work: the liquid is sent to this reservoir, from where it is then pumped out by a pump.

Briefly about the occurrence of groundwater

The purpose of building a well on a suburban area is to open an aquifer capable of covering the family’s needs for drinking or industrial water. The first is used according to its name, the second is used for watering the area, cleaning and similar needs.

It is necessary to decide on the drinking and technical category at the planning stage of future production, because its depth and design depend on this. Categories differ according to the degree of pollution.

The chemical composition of process water contains more mineral impurities, odor and slight turbidity are allowed. Drinking water must be crystal clear, completely devoid of smell and taste.

Rocks in the earth's crust occur in layers, within which the soils have equivalent physical and mechanical properties and the same structure

Aquifers are layers of rock of equivalent composition and structure that contain groundwater. On a geological section, they appear as strips of arbitrary width, lying at an angle or relatively horizontally.

The upper boundary of the formation is called the roof, the lower is called the base. Depending on the thickness of the aquifer and the required amount of water, the well can only penetrate the roof, cross 70% of the formation, or be installed with its bottom on the base.

The roof of the aquifer, in turn, serves as the base of the overlying layer, and the base serves as the roof of the underlying layer.

There are two natural ways for water to appear in rock strata:

• or water from nearby bodies of water into soils Water passes freely through permeable sediments, which include sand, pebbles, rubble and gravel. The process of seepage or penetration is called infiltration, and layers that allow water to pass through are called permeable layers.
• Condensation of moisture in strata sandwiched between two waterproof or otherwise impermeable layers. Clays, loams, semi-rocky and rocky rocks that do not have cracks do not allow water to pass through. The water lying between them can be under pressure: when opened, its level rises and sometimes gushes out.

Fractured rock and semi-rock varieties can accommodate water, but there is no pressure or it is weak. The chemical composition of fissure water will certainly be influenced by the host rocks. Limestones and marls will enrich it with lime, dolomites with magnesium, gypsum steamed with rock salt will be saturated with chloride and sulfate salts.

Groundwater is formed as a result of infiltration of precipitation or water from neighboring reservoirs and as a result of condensation inside the formation (+)

For those who want to know how to build a full-fledged well with their own hands, you should consider the following:

1. The presence of impermeable rock above the aquifer prevents the seepage of dirty wastewater into the formation. Water extracted from an aquicluded layer can be classified as drinking water.
2. The absence of an aquifer on top of the water carrier signals that the use of water for drinking purposes is prohibited. It is called perched water and is used exclusively for household needs.

If the owner of the site is interested in the technical category, it is quite enough to open or go deeper into the layer with perched water. The well shaft in such cases is much shorter than the drinking water shaft.

However, the mirror of the perched water can hardly be called stable. During dry summers and winters, the level in such mines is lower than during rainy autumn and spring periods. Water supplies will fluctuate accordingly.

Strata that are capable of releasing water when opened by a mine are called aquifer, rocks that do not allow or release water are called waterproof or waterproof (+)

To obtain a stable amount of water in the well, the perched water must pass and go deeper into the underlying aquifer. Usually there are several permeable and waterproof layers between it and the perched water. This means there is a possibility of reaching drinking water.

However, the trunk of such a well is much longer: it will take more material, time and labor effort to build it.

Drinking water must be tested by the local sanitary and epidemiological authority. Based on the analysis results, conclusions are drawn about its suitability. If necessary, cleaning measures are recommended.

Construction methods and materials

Brick

You can build a well for water supply from brick.

The modern range of building materials and technologies is huge, so there can be a lot of ways to build hydraulic structures. One such method is to build a brick tank.

Brick is a familiar traditional building material, the quality and reliability of which is unquestionable and time-tested. Of course, you can use it to build an excellent well for water supply that will last for many years.

During the construction of centralized networks by government and hired services, this material is practically not used, but private owners use it quite often.

As a rule, the placement points of hydraulic structures (HTS) are planned in advance, and when developing trenches, pits are also dug for their installation.

The pit is dug at the stage of soil development.

With this approach, you just have to do the following:

1. Level, compact and add sand and gravel mixture to the bottom of the pit;
2. Pour a reinforced or unreinforced concrete slab at the bottom;
3. Lay the walls of the structure taking into account the openings for the entry and exit of pipes. Usually they use half-brick masonry with standard ligation of rows;
4. Cover the walls with a concrete cover with a hole for the hatch;
5. Perform external waterproofing of walls;
6. Backfill.

Usually half-brick masonry is used.

Important! When constructing holes, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the embedded glasses, not the pipes. When inserting pipes into cups, it is necessary to take measures to waterproof the entry points of communications.

The disadvantages of the method are the high cost of bricks, the complexity of the work and the relatively long construction time.

Plastic

Plastic products are becoming increasingly popular.

A fairly new, but very popular type of hydraulic structures are plastic tanks. They fully comply with the accepted standard sizes and are ready for operation, they have specialized inputs for communications with sealing systems, stairs and hatches.

A variety of materials are used - polypropylene, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride, etc. Typically, the walls of the housing are made with stiffening ribs and corrugation to strengthen the structure. At the customer's request, the product can have insulation and other additional systems.

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The buildings are equipped with everything necessary.

Installation is simple: a tank is placed on a prepared concrete or gravel pad, secured with special anchors (cables, brackets, mounting ears) and backfilled. Products with a reinforced body can be filled with ordinary earth or sand; ordinary tanks with flat walls should be filled with a sand-cement mixture.

The plastic tank is simply installed in the right place, fixed and filled.

The positive aspects of using this type of structure are the speed of installation, ease of installation and complete tightness of the walls, which are not afraid of prolonged contact with water. The disadvantage is the rather high price.

Reinforced concrete

Concrete is the most popular material for the construction of hydraulic structures.

The most common and popular material for the construction of water wells these days is reinforced concrete. This is the most durable, reliable and durable construction method.

There are two ways to use concrete:

• Cold welding for plastic water supply pipes
• Repair clamp for water supply pipes
• Circulation pump for cold water supply

1. Casting into prepared formwork. A rather labor-intensive method, but the result is a monolithic, durable and very reliable structure;
2. Precast concrete construction. In this case, ready-made concrete products are delivered to the site, which in our case are cylindrical rings. The rings form a column, which is covered with a concrete cover with a sewer hatch.

Prefabricated structures are more acceptable.

Let's look at the construction of a prefabricated structure in more detail.

For example, we have compiled step-by-step instructions:

1. We tamp the bottom of the pit, then we make a sand and gravel backfill and pour a reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 100 - 150 mm;

Making a concrete pad.

1. We treat the outside of the rings with a waterproofing compound, mastic or penetrating insulation . In the calculated locations, we use a crown cutter to cut out holes for introducing pipes;

We cut holes and make waterproofing.

1. We lower the first ring onto the bedding made of cement-sand mortar and level it strictly horizontally. Then we apply the solution to the joint and install the next ring, not forgetting to control the level;

1. In case of non-standard depth, the last ring can be replaced with an additional element of the required size . We cover the column with a concrete cover with a sewer hatch;

Install the cover with the hole.

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• Coat for water supply pipes
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1. We seal the joints with a solution containing liquid glass or a special sealant for seams;

1. We backfill the structure with layer-by-layer compaction by bayonet reinforcement or using a vibrating tool.

Important! It is better to draw up a drawing of a water well in advance. This will help to avoid inaccuracies and errors during work.

tube well

Tubular design

This type is a borehole. It is not large in size, but its depth can be quite impressive. Used for its arrangement:

• Concrete pipes.
• Plastic pipes.

So:

• If a mine well is dug with a shovel, then a tubular well is drilled using a special drill. The most important thing when choosing this type of well is to determine the location of the groundwater so that it does not clog the water supply source.
• The tube well must be well equipped as water will not collect in it. Various automatic devices are used to lift water outward.
• The well can be simple or artesian. What is the difference? The latter type of water is purer and healthier. It lies quite deep underground and very often this depth is at least 15-20 m.

The price for a tube well is much more modest than for a shaft well. In the process of its construction, much less building material and effort are spent.

What are water wells and how are they designed?

When installing an autonomous water supply system, it is important to install an inspection well for the water supply. It is an important part of the network, providing access to the main working nodes of the backbone. Here the master can carry out repair work if necessary, sheltered from the cold or bad weather.

1. Purpose of wells
2. Types of wells, advantages and disadvantages
3. How to decide on the type of well
4. Installation stages
5. Polymer option
6. Features of operation and maintenance

Purpose of wells

Brick water inspection well

Thanks to such small mines it is possible to organize:

• Free access to the equipment of the water supply system, monitoring its performance, places of branches, turns, and intersections of the pipeline. These places are more often subject to depressurization and leaks.
• Proper arrangement of pumping equipment in one place (hydraulic tank, automation, filter systems).
• Protection of all working elements from precipitation, debris, sub-zero temperatures, and vandals.
• Access to shut-off valves (taps, check valves, drainage outlets).
• Reception and drainage of water leaving the main in emergency situations.

Inspection wells are equally widely used both in autonomous private water supply systems and in centralized mains. The lines of industrial wastewater drainage or water supply to enterprises are no exception.

How to choose a place to build a well

How to choose a suitable location for construction

Both options for a water source can be built with your own hands. You just need to choose the right place for it in a suburban area. Let's take a closer look:

• There are specific instructions for this. According to it, the reservoir with the water supply should not be too close to the residential building, since if the well itself is flooded with groundwater, the structure may begin to deform (destruction of the foundation, walls will crack, and so on). All this can lead to complete destruction of the house.
• It is also worth considering that a well of any type should not be located near sewage pits, compost pits and other things that can pollute groundwater. The distance from them should be at least 20 m.
• How to determine the water level? To do this, you can analyze the reservoirs that are located near the suburban area. You can ask your neighbors about the depth of their well. But it’s worth considering that everyone needs their own type of water.

Advice. This method can only help if it is planned to build a tube well with artesian water on the site.

How to detect water

How to find water

Detecting water for a well can be done in a variety of ways. You can use any desiccant that is first buried in the place where you plan to build the well. The burial depth must be at least 0.5 m.

Advice. Brick or silica gel can be used as a desiccant. They are pre-dried and weighed.

So:

• After 24 hours, the desiccant is dug out and weighed again. If it has acquired quite a lot of weight compared to its original value, then a well can be built in such a place.
• The second method is based on natural phenomena. After a hot day during twilight, you need to carefully inspect the site. If there is a gray haze (fog) in any place, then that is where the well will need to be built.

Advice. According to legend, if the smoke rises in a column or swirls, then this is the place where the most fertile structure will be.

• You can discover water for a well by studying the topography of the area. If there are hills or hills on it, then there is definitely a lot of water between them, since the water underground topography accurately follows the topography of the soil.

Advice. If the area is flat, then there will probably be quite a few places with enough water.

• The amount of water can also be indicated by various plants that require quite a lot of liquid to grow. These are sedge, spruce, birch, alder. Please note that if a pine tree grows in a suburban area, and in order to be saturated with water, it has a rather long taproot, which means that the water is very deep.
• They help determine the location of water and nearby bodies of water. You need to take a special device and use it to measure the pressure right on the shore of the reservoir. Then the same actions are performed on the site. If the pressure has a deviation of 0.5 mm Hg, then the water will be at a depth of 6-8 m.
• Pets are also good at locating water. In most cases, on hot days, they dig holes in a place where there is water and lie down in it. Water is very close to the surface and in sufficient quantity.
• There is another way to detect water - exploratory drilling. To do this, a well is drilled and as soon as water appears in the well, drilling can be stopped. But here it is already worth deciding what is better, leaving a well or building a well.

Advice. Exploration drilling is carried out at a depth of 5-10 meters.

There is a certain conditional depth. It is 10-15 m. If the water is at a greater depth, then it is most rational to make a well.

Types of wells, advantages and disadvantages

Plastic inspection unit

According to the type of building material, all inspection shafts are divided into the following types:

• Reinforced concrete (built from rings). They are resistant to aggressive environments and corrosion. Serve up to 20 years (for reinforced concrete). They have good frost resistance. Not affected by heaving soils. Reinforced concrete rings are characterized by a large mass, so the installation of a water well made of precast reinforced concrete will have to be carried out using special equipment, which will entail financial costs. If even one element is installed incorrectly, the entire shaft will become distorted over time. As a result, the well will burst.
• Brick. An equally reliable option when constructing an inspection shaft. It’s especially good if the craftsman has leftover blocks on the site after building the house. However, the process of installing a brick tank is labor-intensive and time-consuming.
• Polymeric. You can buy ready-made plastic inspection products, or install a simple barrel with a cut bottom. The first option is more reliable, since factory wells have stiffening ribs that can withstand soil pressure. Plastic shafts are characterized by a long service life (up to 50 years), inertness to temperature changes and aggressive environments. In addition, the polymer weighs little. This allows you to carry out work even alone.

Any type of inspection shaft must be equipped with a lid with a hatch. To protect the tank from atmospheric water, it is advisable to raise the entrance to the shaft above ground level by 20-30 cm.

According to the type of purpose, all wells are:

• inspection, also known as inspection or audit;
• differentials are mounted at points where the pipeline height changes;
• linear ones are installed on long sections of the highway;
• machine rooms for installation of equipment;
• nodal ones are installed at the connection points of several water supply lines;
• drainage

Tips and precautions for building a well yourself

Construction is fraught with danger, since when digging a mine a person is in a limited confined space. Having decided to build a structure with your own hands, you should adhere to certain safety rules, which boil down to the following points:

1. The construction site where the work will be carried out is fenced. Then it is cleared of excess elements that may accidentally fall into the mine. It is prohibited to place heavy devices near the recess. The load they create on the soil can lead to rock collapse.
2. Sometimes dangerous gases enter the mine, in which case forced ventilation is installed. To check for foreign impurities, an open source of fire is lowered down.
3. When going deeper, there is a lack of natural light, so it is necessary to have additional light sources, for example, a flashlight mounted on a helmet, or a powerful spotlight aimed at the bottom of the hole being dug.
4. It is imperative to provide personal protective equipment - boots, gloves, suits, helmets.
5. An observer must be constantly present near the mine, who, in the event of an emergency, takes emergency measures to raise workers.
6. As the mine deepens, the walls of the mine are periodically strengthened.
7. Before starting work, the mechanisms used are checked for serviceability.

Construction and equipment of a technical water well

When introducing a water supply system into a country house, it is necessary to equip a place for installing shut-off and control valves and metering devices. As a rule, the best option for this is to construct an underground technical well, where communications and equipment will not be subject to freezing.

• The role of a technical well in the water supply system
• Excavation and caisson construction
• Introductory part of the highway
• Construction of a water supply manifold
• Equipment in the caisson of the pumping station
• Video on the topic

Well design and functions

• Before starting construction of a structure, it is necessary to draw up a project. You can do it yourself, download it from the Internet. It consists of several stages: General provisions. Includes engineering-geological data, technical indicators, and pursued goals. At this stage it is decided what function the structure will perform:
• If it acts only as decoration, then all that remains is to choose a suitable place for installation, decide on construction materials and cladding.
• For the well, which will be used for drainage, hydrogeological studies of the soil are carried out. If it is water-absorbing, filter models are installed; where moisture is poorly absorbed, storage models are installed.
• Wells that serve as a source of water (plumbing option) also require preliminary research related to determining the depth of the aquifer. 2. Graphic part. It consists of drawings of the main components, the appearance of the building, the roof plan, if any, recommendations for finishing, the technologies used, the location of lighting fixtures, electrical points (socket, light bulb). 3. Specification. It includes materials and equipment used for construction

The role of a technical well in the water supply system

Connection to the main water supply is carried out in compliance with a number of technical requirements. We are talking not only about the insertion point itself, but also about a number of technical devices that must be installed between the supply line and the consumer system. These include:

1. Ball valve or gate valve.
2. Dirt filter.
3. Water metering device.
4. Gearbox.

Each of these elements of plumbing equipment has certain requirements for operating conditions. The regulations limit the temperature range and maximum humidity, plus there is a need to protect the equipment from mechanical damage. Of course, all of the equipment mentioned can be placed in the house, but this solution has a number of disadvantages. Not everyone wants to let an inspector into their home to check the condition of the metering unit and the consistency of the readings.

On the other hand, a number of water collection points may be located along the route of the inlet pipeline and it is impractical to pull an additional water supply branch in the opposite direction. It may also be planned to use a centralized water supply in conjunction with its own source - a well or well, which means that placing the inlet unit in the house causes even more serious difficulties.

After all, removing all technical elements of life support from the living space is a concept that has proven its convenience in practice. The underground placement of plumbing equipment meets all the requirements, thus preventing the system from freezing and any harmful effects; it is only important to properly build and equip the well.

Excavation and caisson construction

It makes the most sense to dig a hole at the stage of laying the inlet water pipe. The RMNT.RU portal has already written about how to introduce water into a house. This will greatly simplify the insertion of shut-off and control valves and their passage through the walls of the well. As a rule, the pit has the shape of a square with a side of 1.2 m, however, in the case of organizing complex branched systems, more internal space may be required. The enlargement of the pit may be dictated by the need to accommodate more plumbing equipment, or due to the need to apply external waterproofing.

Protection from groundwater is required only when the level is sufficiently high, when there is a risk of soil erosion and collapse. In other cases, it is often more profitable to use special reinforcement that is resistant to flooding. The walls of the so-called wet well are laid out in one brick according to a radial pattern, while the bottom remains ground and a recess is dug in it, which allows you to quickly pump out all the water in case of emergency. A dry caisson is a sealed concrete bowl. Instead of carrying out monolithic work, which requires significantly greater forces and materials, you can resort to proven prefabricated monolithic structures made of a round slab at the bottom and rings connected by bentonite locks.

How to dig a well

The main tool for constructing a well is a shovel, but you will definitely need a bucket or other container to lift the soil to the surface.

It is also necessary to install special lifting mechanisms, for example, a tripod, a winch or a gate mounted on trestles or other devices.

With their help, they not only simplify and speed up the process, but they also serve to prevent the walls from collapsing or shedding when manually pulling the bucket using a rope.

In most cases, especially with crumbling and loose soils, it is justified to choose the option of constructing a well with alternate installation of rings, the algorithm of actions for which is as follows:

1. first, the location for the future well is designated and the turf layer of earth is removed;
2. Next, the area is fenced to prevent people not involved in digging the well from entering the perimeter;
3. prepare a place for dumping earth from the mine, which cannot be located closer than 3 m to the well;
4. the first ring is installed along the diameter of the future well, under which the soil is gradually removed, which facilitates its smooth sliding down;
5. after the upper edge of the ring is equal to the ground level, a second one is installed on it, and the work is repeated until the boundary of the aquifer is passed;
6. then the deepening should be continued by 1-2 m, depending on the depth of the layer, in order to further ensure the required debit.

In some cases, it is justified to pre-fill a concrete knife (or “shoe”), which is made according to the diameter of the rings, and its peculiarity is its triangular shape, due to which the process of passing through soils, especially heavy ones, is more intense.

It is on this that the first ring will be installed, but only after it has gained the required strength.

You can significantly simplify the work of digging a well if you first make a kind of cross, with the help of which you can easily control the accuracy and compliance with the dimensions.

The length of each rail coincides with the diameter of the well, taking into account the thickness of the concrete rings and the required margin for clearance. This tool is especially indispensable for open digging, since in this case there are no other reference points.

Features of digging a well shaft

During the process of digging a well, you must ensure the accuracy of the connection between the rings, so it is recommended to choose products with a special locking connection. But even in this case, it is necessary to fasten between the rings using metal brackets.

The well must first be externally waterproofed using concrete rings, which serves primarily to protect against the ingress of perched water.

Of course, the limited space inside the rings affects the speed of passage, but if you need a shallow well, up to 8-10 m, then this digging option is optimal.

The use of an open method, in which the rings are laid after the shaft has been manufactured, can lead to collapses and, despite the fact that it makes it possible to check the tightness of the connections between the rings on the ground, before they are lowered using a crane or manipulator, it can only be used on dense soils.

Although, if a plastic well for drinking water is being built, then the latter method is more preferable.

In some cases, it is justified to use both methods of digging a well: first, up to a certain level, the work is carried out in an open way, and then with the gradual installation of rings.

Introductory part of the highway

In the simplest water wells there is only one unit of shut-off and control valves: a tap for pipes with a nominal diameter of up to 50 mm, and on larger mains - a valve. However, when installing a metering unit in a well, the installation of additional plumbing equipment is required.

Firstly, the counter itself. In a wet well, it is allowed to install only water meters that can operate for a long time in water under pressure. Their characteristic feature is a cast metal body and a small viewing window with thick glass, sometimes equipped with a magnifying lens. Recently, electronic type underwater meters that do not have a dial as such have become increasingly popular. Often, water meters with enhanced protection are also installed in dry caissons: simply as a safety net or due to a lack of understanding of regulatory requirements.

Between the tap and the meter, it is mandatory to install a dirt strainer with a mesh size from 200 microns to 0.1 mm. It is better to clarify the exact technical parameters of the filter in the meter’s passport, but one requirement is the same for all water metering devices - the filter should not be washable, otherwise problems will inevitably arise with the water supply organization during sealing. The third mandatory element of the meter's piping is a check valve. It can be of any type and installed either directly before the water meter or immediately after it.

Piping of the water meter in the caisson: 1 - shut-off valve; 2 - coarse mesh filter; 3 - check valve; 4 - water meter; 5 - tap for draining water from the system

It may also be necessary to install a tap after the meter. This will make it much easier to dismantle the meter without draining the water from the system to send it for verification and put an alternative source of water supply into operation without any modifications. Also, immediately after the meter and its piping, it is highly recommended to install a tee with a regular 1/2″ tap for emergency drainage of water from the system.

Types of wells in a suburban area

Water wells can come in different sizes and shapes. It all depends on the free space in the suburban area and on what type of water supply will be used. Types of water wells:

• Rising.
• Tubular.
• Shakhtny.

Let's take a closer look at the designs:

• The ascending type can only be used in a place where a spring or any other source of water comes to the surface.
• Most often it is used in nature reserves rich in springs and other bodies of water. It is not a very complicated structure that comes out to the surface of the ground in the form of a small pipe.
• A filter station is installed on it; a pump (see Water pumps for wells: which one to choose) may not be needed, since the water itself rises to the surface.

Advice. It makes no sense to install this type of well in modern suburban areas. It will take quite a lot of effort to get to a certain layer of earth. In some cases, rising sources can be located at depths of up to 150 m.

Shaft and tube wells are considered more in demand for water supply to suburban areas. There are examples of them in the photo.

Construction of a water supply manifold

It is convenient to organize the distribution unit of a water well on a system of polypropylene pipes. Possible risks of narrowing the nominal diameter due to poor-quality soldering can be easily mitigated by simply increasing the diameter of the pipes by 1–2 standard sizes. At the same time, polypropylene is very tolerant of flooding and freezing, and if necessary, the piping of the well can be easily changed.

The most common types of water supply collectors also contribute to this. They are made by casting from PPR plastic and have from 3 to 6 outlets with ball valves. Their quality is a key indicator of the longevity of the collector, so it is better to avoid overtly cheap Chinese-made products.

With outgoing pipe diameters greater than 32 mm, choosing a suitable collector can be quite difficult; the manufacture of an atypical device will be required. As a rule, it consists of a pipe section with a diameter of up to 100 mm, plugged on both sides, into which threaded elbows are welded for connecting outgoing lines through a squeegee or a union nut.

It is also possible not to install the manifold assembly as such, but simply mount a series of branch fittings in series under the main diameter of the inlet line. Thus, the pipe after the water meter encircles the walls of the well, and branches of the system cut into it in the right places. This method of installation requires much more expenditure on expensive fittings and is only suitable as a temporary measure due to the large number of connections, each of which is a vulnerable point.

Equipment in the caisson of the pumping station

If the collector unit is located close to a well or well, it makes sense to move the water pumping station equipment complex underground. This eliminates the need to lay additional pipes, and all electrical and plumbing equipment will be operated in suitable conditions. Of course, it is allowed to install pumping and filtering stations only inside a dry caisson.

Although flooding of equipment in a waterproofed well is impossible, condensation on metal elements is very likely. Therefore, the use of steel fittings should be avoided in favor of bronze or, in the worst case, brass. It is also advisable to choose a battery with a stainless steel casing instead of the standard painted steel one. The pump and filter housings must also have a design that meets the placement conditions in accordance with GOST 15150–69.

When placing a water treatment station in a caisson, it will not be superfluous to think about the design of the double cover. A partition with a lid or a collapsible boardwalk should be located at the ground freezing level or below and have a solid vapor barrier. If placing the partition at such a height is impossible, you should consider its external insulation, for which it is convenient to use the cheapest polystyrene foam of the PSB brand. Only by performing proper insulation can you confidently eliminate the risk of well freezing and damage to expensive equipment.

Increased frost resistance

To insulate and avoid water freezing, you should build an insulated house. If you have a pump and hose, then it is better to remove it from the street during severe frosts.

In the case of a piped water supply from a well, it is worth considering the depth to which the soil freezes. When laying, insulate the pipes.

This way you can protect yourself from unnecessary hassle associated with freezing. It doesn’t matter which well you decide to build at your dacha. Follow the instructions and safety precautions. You will succeed.

Construction of a water well

One of the mandatory elements in a centralized water supply system is water wells or chambers.

What is a water well?

Water wells are underground structures designed for the installation of various plumbing equipment - valves, valves, meters, ball valves, etc. Water wells usually have a round or rectangular shape. Traditionally, the installation of water wells was carried out using concrete rings; for rectangular ones, the method of sliding formwork was used (in this case the well was monolithic) or from foundation blocks with the joints between the blocks sealed with cement mortar.

Advantages of plastic water chambers

Thanks to many years of experience in the installation of centralized and autonomous water supply systems, it offers its clients services such as the installation of water wells, which have a number of advantages:

• Absolutely waterproof design;

• Strength to withstand significant loads;

• Corrosion resistance and resistance to salts and other chemicals;

• Relatively easy to install.

• Light weight (the plastic from which the well is made is only a few centimeters thick).

In addition, by choosing a plastic water well in accordance with the number and diameter of water supply elements, you can provide yourself with enough space for their repair and maintenance, for example, sealing meters.

Installation of a plastic water well

Well installation includes several stages:

1. Soil development.
2. Making a pillow.
3. Well installation.
4. Inserting pipelines into the well.
5. Backfilling the well.
6. Soil development

To install a water well, a round pit is dug with dimensions exceeding the dimensions of the well (in diameter and height) by 20-30 centimeters. If the groundwater level is high and there is loose soil, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the pit to prevent the soil from sliding.

Making a pillow

To ensure that the well does not sag under the influence of gravity and does not tilt to the side, it must be installed on a solid, durable base - a pillow. The pad is a round concrete slab, reinforced or unreinforced. The diameter and thickness of the slab depend on the size of the well, as well as on the properties of the soil. Before pouring the cushion, a layer of sand is poured onto the leveled bottom of the pit, which is leveled and compacted. Reinforcement of the slab is necessary when the well will experience significant loads.

Installation of distribution, plastic well

At this stage, the water well must be lowered into the well and secured to the pad. The well is lowered onto the cushion, after which it is attached to it and to the anchors using anchor bolts and cables.

Inserting pipelines into the well

Modern plastic wells have special pipes through which pipes can be inserted into the well. In this case, the ingress of water through the insertion point is absolutely excluded, because Pipe entry points are sealed with O-rings.

Backfilling a well

Sand or a cement-sand mixture is used to backfill the well. Backfilling should be carried out evenly along the entire perimeter of the well. This ensures equality of lateral loads. After filling every 20-30 centimeters of the bedding, it must be compacted to achieve high density and prevent subsequent subsidence. However, the most popular type of well is the concrete well.

, having extensive experience in installing concrete water wells, guarantees high quality construction and its durability.

The advantages of concrete wells include their simplicity, availability and low price. To install reinforced concrete wells, cylindrical concrete rings are used that have an L-shaped recess at both ends, which allows them to be securely connected to each other and prevent further displacement of the rings relative to each other. In addition, with proper sealing, the rings will prevent moisture from entering the well throughout its entire service life.

The development of soil and the manufacture of a cushion during a process such as the installation of reinforced concrete wells are no different from the same steps when installing a plastic well, except that the cushion should have a slightly greater thickness due to the greater mass of the concrete well itself. The depth is calculated so that the well can accommodate a whole number of rings. Otherwise, you will have to make brickwork in the upper part, which is not very desirable.

Installation of a concrete well

After the base has hardened, rings are installed on it. To perform these works he uses his own crane. The rings are installed exactly on top of each other so that the mating grooves at the ends fit exactly into each other. After this, the joints are sealed.

Inserting pipes into a well

To insert pipes into the well in appropriate places, using cutters, our specialists make holes in the concrete rings. The holes exactly correspond to the diameter of the couplings used to seal the place where the pipe enters the well. Thanks to the use of modern sealing methods when installing reinforced concrete wells, the wells installed by us have absolute tightness, which is practically not inferior to the tightness of plastic wells. After this, a well floor slab with the appropriate dimensions is installed on the well. A plastic or cast iron hatch with a shell is installed in a special hole on the floor slab.

Backfilling a concrete well

The installation of a reinforced concrete well, like the installation of a plastic well, is completed by backfilling. For a concrete well, it is carried out in almost the same way as for a plastic one, with the only difference being that the probability of subsidence of a concrete well is much lower due to its greater mass.

Our company carries out a full range of works on the installation of autonomous and centralized water supply systems, including the installation of water wells and chambers. We guarantee our clients:

• High quality construction.

• Full compliance of installation with building codes and regulations.

• Well durability.

• Selection of the camera in full accordance with the type of soil and the amount of equipment installed in it.

• Optimal distribution of equipment in the well.

• Low prices for the installation of reinforced concrete wells.

Working with us will allow you to get a plumbing chamber with minimal investment of time and money.

Wells: types, features

...secondly, take a soil sample and determine its type; thirdly, based on the data obtained, select the type of well that is most suitable for construction in specific conditions; fourthly, determine the optimal location of the well on the ground based on sanitary standards. Types of wells

Depending on the location of the aquifer, key wells and shaft wells are distinguished.

A key well is built if there is a place where the water of the aquifer comes out to the surface of the earth: the aquifer, encountering an obstacle in its path in the form of an aquifer, sometimes finds an outlet to the surface of the earth, forming keys (springs). If on a low but level area the water comes to the surface with some pressure, then you are dealing with an ascending spring. In the case of a downward spring, water flows down a slope slowly, evenly, without pressure.

The construction of mine wells is carried out in those areas where there is no open outlet of water to the surface, but there is an underground aquifer with a depth of up to 20 m.

Wells built on springs

This type of well is the simplest and most economical. Its design depends on what key it is built on: ascending or descending.

Rising key well

At the point where the rising spring jet reaches the surface of the earth, a small construction site is leveled (round with a diameter of about a meter, square with sides of the same size). The top fertile layer of soil is removed from the area of ​​the future log house, and the soil is slightly deeper, the walls of the well are strengthened with brick or rubble stone, and the log house is installed in the recess. The log house can be concrete or wooden.

Ascending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - place of water outlet; 3 - drain hole; 4 - tray for draining water; 5 - drainage groove; 6 - clay; 7 - gravel

The installation diagram of the log house should be such that its lower edge is below the upper level of the water rise (see figure). The height of the log house depends on the wishes of the owner, but if the upper edge of the log house is much higher than the level of rising water, then a drain hole must be made in the wall of the log house. Otherwise, water may escape from the well.

Under the drain hole, a tray is attached to the wall of the log house to allow water to drain. As a rule, it is also used to draw water from a well. This is much more convenient than scooping it out of the log house, and besides, the water in the well will not be polluted.

To drain the water flowing through the drain hole, it is necessary to lay a deep groove. The walls and bottom of the groove are coated with a layer of oily clay and lined with flat rubble stone.

To prevent water from seeping into the gaps between the walls of the depression in the ground and the walls of the log house, they are sealed with a thick (at least 20 cm) layer of greasy clay; The clay is laid on top with natural stone or covered with crushed stone or gravel.

The bottom of the well is also filled with well-washed gravel, crushed stone or river sand (coarse fraction). The bottom filling layer will act as a natural filter. Its thickness must be at least 10 cm.

To prevent atmospheric water from mixing with the well water (in the form of rain, snow), a fairly wide (up to 30-40 cm) blind area of ​​rich clay is made around the well frame, which is laid on top with brick, rubble stone, concrete or asphalt. The top of the well should always be covered with a tight lid.

Descending Key Well

The water of a downward spring often contains particles of silt, mountain sand, soil, etc. Therefore, the frame of a well built on such a spring must have a partition with a filter layer of crushed stone or gravel. At the point where the key comes out to the surface of the earth, an area of ​​about 1 square meter is leveled. m. It should be taken into account that descending springs are, as a rule, located on slopes, but the site for the well must be horizontal (a building level can be used for control).

Next, the soil is dug into which the frame is installed. The gaps between the walls of the soil recess and the walls of the log house are sealed with a thick layer of greasy clay, and the bottom of the well is coated with clay, which is then necessarily covered with hard material: lined with brick, stone, concreted or covered with boards (see figure).

Descending key well: 1 - frame; 2 - key exit location; 3 - clay; 4 - hard bottom covering; 5 - filter layer; 6 - drain hole; 7 — tray for water drainage; 8 - drainage groove

A filter layer of pebbles, crushed stone or coarse washed river sand is poured onto the bottom covering; A partition with holes is installed on top of the filter layer.

Having settled in the lower part of the log house, under the partition, the water flows to the top, already cleared of impurities, silt, soil, etc.

Similar to an ascending key well, to drain excess water, a drain hole is made in the log house, under which a tray is fixed to drain the water. Excess water is drained from the well by a deep groove paved with rubble stone.

Mine wells

When the aquifer depth is up to 20 m, shaft wells are built to obtain water. The cross-section of the shaft varies between 0.8-1.5 m. The main components of the shaft well are:

a) head - ground part. For ease of use of the well, the height of the well head should not be more than 0.8-1 m;

b) shaft - underground part, or shaft.

In the lower part of the trunk - the water intake - water is collected and stored. The height of the water intake is in the range of 0.75-2 m. In the event that the thickness of the aquifer is small and, accordingly, water flows into the well in small quantities, to accumulate water, the water intake part of the trunk is made expanded or a well with a sump is built.

The sump is the lowest part of the trunk, located below the level of the impermeable layer.

Wooden wells

If the material for constructing the well is wood, then the walls of the shaft are reinforced with logs or cobblestones. In this case, the cross section of the well trunk is a square or rectangle.

Construction of a log house

The first step in building a well is digging a shaft. If the mine is dug in quicksand, loose, soft or weak soil, then as it deepens, the finished walls are strengthened with formwork. In medium and hard soil, no formwork is required.

The depth of the mine depends on the depth of the aquifer; this value is determined even before the start of excavation work using special instruments. As you approach the calculated depth of the shaft, the vertical walls should be strengthened with formwork.

After the shaft is dug to the required depth, the accumulated water is pumped out of it, the bottom is leveled and the frame is installed - the lower crown of the frame. If the soil density is less than weak, then the frame may tilt under the weight of the upper crowns. To prevent this from happening, large flagstones are placed under the corners of the frame in such soils. And so that the log house does not float when filling the well with water, the lower crown is dug into the ground (after installing 2-3 subsequent crowns).

Next, the subsequent crowns of the log house are laid. To more tightly connect the crowns of the log house with each other, each log is planted with blows from a badger (large mallet), however, the blows are applied not directly to the log, but to a wooden spacer placed on it.

It should be remembered that in each individual wall of the log house the top of the stacked log must lie on the butt of the already laid

After laying each crown, you should check the verticality of the walls of the log house using a plumb line.

At the level of the sixth crown, work on the construction of the log house is temporarily stopped and the filter layer is backfilled, for which the bottom of the well is covered with layers: large gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm), medium-sized gravel (5 cm), coarse river sand (20 cm).

If the water receiving part of the trunk reaches the lower waterproof layer and water enters the well not only from the bottom, but also through the lower part of the log house, then for its influx, holes must be made in the grooves of the logs of the lower crowns, and the gap between the outer side of the log house and fill the walls of the shaft 10 cm above the aquifer with gravel or crushed stone. Moreover, the thickness of the backfill should be at least 25-30 cm.

Arrangement of collaterals for a wooden log house: 1 - flagstone or board; 2 - deposit; 3 - wedge

As the log house is being made, to secure it more firmly, pledges are made every 5-6 crowns: the logs for the crowns with pledges are taken not of a specified length, but 50 cm longer. The elongated ends of the logs are placed into specially constructed trenches, the soil in which is carefully compacted (see figure). If the soil is loose, then large flagstones or thick boards made of hard (but moisture-resistant) wood should be placed as collateral. Fastening the bail in the ground will be more reliable if it is jammed.

The grooves of the crowns of the part of the log house that will be above the water are coated with greasy clay. This is done to prevent soil water and perched water from seeping into the well. This can be avoided if a clay castle is used to insulate the well (coating the outer surface of the log house walls with greasy clay). If the castle is installed along the entire length of the log house, then a clay layer thickness of 15-20 cm is sufficient. If the castle is installed only in its upper part (about 2.5 m), then the thickness of the clay layer should be at least 30-40 cm.

It is not recommended to soak the walls of the log house with an antiseptic, paint them, or caulk grooves and cracks with hemp or tow. All these measures negatively affect the taste, and most importantly, the quality of water.

The gap between the outer walls of the log house and the walls of the shaft (regardless of the presence or absence of a clay castle) is filled with layers of soil removed during digging of the shaft, each layer of backfill is carefully compacted.

After the last crown of the underground part of the well shaft has been laid, the area around the well is covered with logs, on which thick boards are laid (the boardwalk is attached to the logs with long nails). Mandatory condition: the flooring must completely cover the edges of the backfilled shaft. Then the ground part of the well - the head - is made and installed on the upper crown of the trunk. After this, an embankment of soil with a slope from the well (with a diameter of at least 2 m) should be built on top of the flooring. The top of the embankment is coated with a layer of greasy clay and concreted or laid out with concrete slabs or flagstones.

Construction of a log house using the lowering method with building crowns from above

At the beginning of construction work, a pit is dug no more than 3-5 m deep. The bottom of the pit is carefully leveled and compacted. Then a lowering frame made of logs or timber is placed on it. The frame must have pointed legs, or knives made of sheet, strip or angle steel must be attached to its edges (Fig. 21). The cross-sectional size of the frame must exceed the same size of the ordinary crowns of the log house.

Two frame rims are placed on the lowering frame. The logs of these crowns must be larger than the logs of ordinary crowns and protrude from the outside of the log house by at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that when the log house is lowered, the clay from the grooves between the ordinary crowns (clay castle) does not crumble or be wiped off.

2-3 privates are placed on the frame crowns. The crowns are pressed together with a leopard, and the grooves between the crowns are coated with greasy clay. After checking the verticality of the walls, thick boards are nailed to the logs along the inside of the log house with long nails. From the outside of the log house, guides are nailed to the logs (see figure), their task is to ensure fastening strength and rigidity of the entire structure.

Around the erected part of the log house (close to the guides) four logs are placed, connected “into a bowl”. The corners formed by the logs are fixed with stakes about 10 cm thick, which are driven into the ground. The connection of the logs with each other, as well as the places of their contact with the stakes, are secured with staples. This design will allow the log house to be lowered strictly vertically, without distortions.

Devices for erecting a lower frame: a) – frame with pointed legs; b) - frames with cutting knives

When the lower rims of the log house are secured, and the equipment for lowering the log house is installed, soil is removed from under the walls.

To lift buckets upward, various devices are used in the form of a tripod with a block, a crane, a vertical or horizontal gate.

After removing the soil to a depth equal to the height of the already constructed log house, the top of the log house is covered with boards, and a load is placed on the boards, under the pressure of which the log house lowers down.

Further construction of the log house and its lowering into the well trunk is carried out in the same order.

As the length of the log house increases, fastening boards are added on the inside of the frame and guides on the outside. Once the construction of the well is completed, the inner boards are removed and the guides remain in the ground.

The construction of the well is completed in the same way as the previous method: by manufacturing and installing the above-ground part of the log house and installing blind areas around the well.

Tube wells

Reinforced concrete rings, brick and stone masonry are used as building materials to secure the vertical walls of the well shaft.

Tube wells are more hygienic because, unlike wood, concrete, stone and brick absorb impurities and odors much less and are easier to clean.

Prefabricated wells made of reinforced concrete elements

For the construction of prefabricated reinforced concrete wells, reinforced concrete rings are most often used.

In the dug pit of the well shaft, the first reinforced concrete ring is installed on the leveled bottom, the outer diameter of which should exceed the outer diameter of the row rings by 5-6 cm. To make the ring cut into the bottom soil more easily, you can use any of the following options: a steel ring is installed along the lower edge of the flashing ring knife with pins. If the lower edge of the ring has a cone-shaped narrowing, then you can do without a knife.

To prevent contaminated water from leaking into the well through the connecting seam between the casing ring and the first row, the joint is sealed with tarred fibrous material (hemp, rope, etc.). The outer surface of the joints is sealed with cement mortar after installing the entire well shaft.

Then the rings are fastened together with steel staples about 20 cm long. The staples can be installed both on the outside of the barrel and on the inside. The holes after installing the brackets are also sealed with cement-sand mortar. Before installation, the staples themselves are coated with a layer of oil paint and dried well.

For the convenience of carrying out repair and maintenance work, a vertical ladder is installed inside the well shaft. For its construction, staples are used.

After installing the entire well shaft, the outer side of the joints between the rings is cemented, and the gap between their outer walls and the vertical walls of the shaft is filled with soil, which is carefully compacted. Next, the protective flooring is removed from the bottom of the well and a filter layer of gravel, crushed stone or river sand is installed.

A head is installed on the upper edge of the upper ring, and blind areas and fencing are made around the well.

In addition to rings, you can build a prefabricated reinforced concrete well from plates (bars). The ends of the reinforced concrete bars must be molded “into a claw”, and the trunk of such a well is assembled by analogy with a cobblestone log house.

Wells made using brickwork method

In addition to brick (red or iron ore), for the construction of a tubular brick well you will need several round frames - flat rings, the internal diameter of which should be equal to the diameter of the future well - and anchors with washers and nuts, at the rate of 6 anchors for each frame.

The main frame (it is installed on the bottom of the well) should be the strongest; it is made of reinforced concrete, metal or bog oak. The thickness of the main frame is 9-10 cm, and the width should slightly exceed the thickness of the masonry. A steel knife is installed along the entire outer edge of the frame with the blade facing down. 6 holes for anchors are drilled in the frame at equal distances from each other.

Intermediate and upper frames can be made from wooden boards no more than 8 cm thick. Their width may be slightly less than the thickness of the masonry. The boards are fastened together with long nails, the ends of which should be bent. 12 holes for anchors are drilled in the intermediate frames, and 6 in the upper frames.

6 anchors are firmly secured to the lower frame using washers and nuts and lowered into the pit, checking with a level that its installation is horizontal. The intermediate frame is placed on the anchors of the lower frame and firmly secured. For greater strength, the structure is secured on top with logs (see figure).

Some stages of the construction of round brick wells: a) – frames with anchors; b) installation of anchors in the intermediate frame; c) – plastering the inner wall of the well: 1) beacons; 2) fry

After all the preparatory activities, you can proceed directly to the laying. A bed of cement-sand mortar 1-1.5 cm thick is placed on the main frame and leveled, on which the bricks of the first row of masonry are laid. The masonry is carried out using only bonded rows or alternating them with spoon rows, but in any case, the first two rows of masonry are carried out only in bonded rows.

To make it more convenient to maintain the round shape of the well trunk, you can make a template from waterproof plywood in the form of a ring of two halves and use it to control the quality of the masonry.

In the bricks laid near the anchors, recesses are made for the anchors, which are filled with mortar. Since the masonry is carried out along a ring, and the inner diameter of the ring is smaller than the outer one, a gap forms on the outside between the bricks, which should be sealed with fragments of brick mixed with mortar. To ensure the strength of the masonry, it is reinforced with thin double wire every 3-4 rows.

When there is a gap of 5-6 cm between the masonry and the intermediate frame, the masonry is stopped and anchors are secured to the frame, the gap is sealed with a mixture of masonry mortar with crushed stone or gravel (in a ratio of 1: 3) and thoroughly compacted.

Next, you should plaster the lined walls with cement-sand mortar both inside and outside the well shaft. For the plastering process, you will need 6 smooth, even slats with a length corresponding to the length of the anchor, and a small wooden semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the diameter of the well. The slats will act as beacons. They are attached to the wall at the locations of the anchors. Plastering is carried out in two stages: first the spray is applied, and then the main outline. To level the tent, rest the fry on two adjacent beacons and, using its up and down movements, level the solution. The beacons are then removed, and the recesses remaining from them are sealed with mortar. After plastering the first grip (the distance between the main and intermediate frames), soil sampling continues - the shaft is deepened by 1 - 1.5 m. Then a second intermediate frame is installed on the anchors of the first intermediate frame and masonry continues. To fix the well at the required depth, flagstones or reinforced concrete slabs of such a size are placed under the knife of the main frame that they protrude beyond the boundaries of the well by at least 0.5 m.

Upon completion of the construction of the brick shaft, the bottom of the well is cleaned and filled with a filter layer of crushed stone, gravel or coarse river sand.

The head of a brick well can also be made of brickwork, but without frames and anchors. The top of the masonry is reinforced with steel wire and poured into the formwork with cement-sand mortar to a height of 20-25 cm.

For better resistance to precipitation, the upper edge of the head should be rubbed with iron plating (sprinkled with dry cement and rubbed with a trowel).

Features and installation of water wells

It is impossible to consider a well ready for use after the hole for the well has been dug and the object itself has been constructed. In order for it to function correctly, additional installation work must be carried out. You can build water wells on your own, if you have certain skills; if not, then it is better to contact a construction company.

Installation of a water well

Mine well finishing

Types of structures

Such work is necessary because in appearance the well resembles a deep hole and for safety reasons it will be necessary to limit it with any modern building material. For this purpose, houses are built, which can be from:

• Brick.
• Tree.
• Foam blocks.
• Foam concrete.

Let's take a closer look:

• If brick or other similar material requires additional decoration, then wood does not.
• Brick is almost always finished with natural agglomerate or artificial stone. For such work it is necessary to prepare a flat surface. The wood is simply varnished.

Advice. To give sophistication and an attractive appearance to the outer structure of a shaft well, quite often various patterns are carved into the wood, which looks original.

It will be necessary to build a roof, which is made from:

• Wood.
• Corrugated sheeting.
• Metal tiles and other roofing materials.

Advice. To prevent debris from getting inside, you need to cover it with a lid made of wood or corrugated board.

Advantages of autonomous water supply

The main advantage of autonomous equipment is that it is possible to obtain water similar in quality to spring water. The water is free of: rust, chlorine, bacteria. Other advantages of such equipment include the following:

• Budget savings. When running a water supply from a well to a house, costs are significantly saved; people use natural water without paying for its consumption. In addition, the installation of such water supply is much cheaper than other types of sources.
• Independent control over the operation of the system. You can regulate the water pressure yourself, lay new pipes to the bathhouse, to the summer cottage.
• Lack of harmful substances (chlorine) that are added to purify water.
• You don't have to fill out a lot of paperwork. To obtain permission to drill a well, you will have to collect a lot of documents and go through more than one authority, but with an autonomous water supply system you can forget about these troubles.

Even if there are power outages, you will not be left without water; you can get it in a simple way by lowering a bucket into a well.

Typical diagram of a shaft type well

A shaft well is a common type of individual water supply source. It has the largest size in the opening, which allows an independent owner to form a working with a simple shovel directly in the mine. The excavation can be round, square, or less often rectangular.

The diameter or length of the wall of a square shaft usually varies from 0.8 to 1.2/1.5 m. Note that too much clearance does not guarantee an increase in flow rate. There is slightly more water in a wide well than in a narrow analogue. After all, the flow rate is determined by the capabilities of the water carrier, and not by the size of the mine. But the difference in construction costs is difficult not to notice.

Only water from an aquifer covered by impermeable layers and artesian water produced by artesian wells are used as drinking water (+)

Main structural components

They dig wells up to 30 m deep. It is easier and more reasonable to go deeper with a drilling rig. They do the same when constructing a well in rocky and semi-rocky rocks: drilling a shaft in them with your own hands is impossible or too difficult.

It makes sense to dig soils that can be mined with a shovel: sand, sandy loam, clay, loam.

Structural components of a mine well:

• The water intake part is the lower segment of the walls of the well, designed to receive groundwater. If the water carrier's supply is sufficient for family consumption, water flows exclusively through the bottom. If the flow rate of the formation is small, holes are made in the well walls buried in it for the lateral flow of water.
• The trunk is the part of the well from the surface of the earth to the static level of well water. It can be wooden, monolithic concrete, assembled from reinforced concrete rings, stone, brick. The trunk must provide a tight seal that prevents the infiltration of sewage, atmospheric water, the penetration of chemicals and organic residues.
• The head is an above-ground area that creates conditions for the safe use of a water supply source and prevents water pollution. It should rise above the surface by at least 60 cm. A comfortable height is considered to be 80–90 cm. The head should have a lid to protect the water from contamination and a device for lifting it with a bucket.

A clay castle is placed around the junction of the head with the top of the trunk, which acts as a barrier to soil water, atmospheric and domestic runoff from the earth's surface. This is a kind of rounded trench with a depth below the level of seasonal freezing of the soil, about 50 cm wide. The trench is filled with crumpled clay.

The backfill is compacted with diligence so that cracks do not appear in the drying clay. A blind area of ​​reinforced concrete, rubble stone, brick, 1.0/1.5 m wide with a slope from the walls of the cap of 0.01, is built on top of the castle.

According to SNiP 2.04.02-84, mine wells should be installed in the first free-flowing aquifers from the surface, composed of loose rocks (+)

Classification by water receiving part

The degree of immersion of the water receiving part into the aquifer is a criterion for dividing wells into the following types:

• Imperfect. The imperfect type receiving segment is partially buried in the aquifer. The influx of water occurs through the bottom, if necessary through the side holes.
• Perfect. The water receiving part of the perfect type completely crosses the aquifer and is installed with its bottom on the roof of the aquifer located below. The influx of water occurs through the side holes in the walls.
• Perfect with a sump. Its structure is similar to the previous type. The difference is that the water intake area is buried in the aquifer in order to create a reservoir for water storage.

There is another way to construct a reservoir: the water intake part is arranged in the shape of a truncated cone, reminiscent of a tent. A cone-shaped underwater part is arranged if the thickness of the water carrier is more than 3 m; if it is smaller, it would be more rational to make a sump.

In an imperfect well, the shaft fastening does not reach the underlying layer; in a perfect well, the fastening reaches the waterproof layer and rests on it (+)

Optimal scheme for private owners

The choice of design for the underwater part of a mine well should be based on the real need for water supply. If you do not scoop out the excess, it will stagnate, which will lead to loss of drinking qualities and rotting. Therefore, imperfect wells without backup tanks are recommended for water supply to private households.

Long-term popular practice suggests: the water intake of an imperfect well should not be inserted into the aquifer by more than 0.7 of the thickness of the reservoir. If the recommended regulations are exceeded, the volume of incoming water decreases, which entails the need to form side holes in the walls of the well.

The bottom of a standard imperfect source is equipped with a three-layer bottom filter. First, 10 cm of sand is poured, then 15 cm of gravel or crushed stone with sand filler, after 15 cm of small pebbles, gravel or crushed stone larger in size than the previous filling.

If the water intake part of the well is buried in liquefied rock - quicksand, the bottom of the excavation is equipped with a boardwalk with holes and slots drilled for water intake.

When choosing a water intake device, it is necessary to take into account that the supply of water in the well and the daily need for it should be coordinated as much as possible, otherwise the water will stagnate and rot.

Country well water supply diagram

The main working mechanism on which the water supply structure is attached is a pump, which can be submersible or surface. The first type of equipment is located at the very bottom of the well, at a distance of 0.5 m to the bottom. It is suspended on a cable to which a pipe is attached that supplies liquid to a living space or garden area. Construction methods can be different, depending on the material used and the depth of the well.

Wiring is installed inside the house, through which water can flow into the bathroom and kitchen. The more points of water consumption, the larger the diameter of the route. To regulate the water pressure, a hydraulic accumulator is required. For preservation you will need a drain valve. If hot water is needed, a water heating boiler is installed.

We protect the structure from surface water

To keep your well clean, it must be properly protected. Water should enter the shaft only from below, and therefore the walls must be reliably insulated. To do this, we firmly connect the rings to each other, resorting to one of two possible methods.

1. We drill the walls of the rings and fix them with metal brackets mounted on bolts.
2. We twist the rings with steel wire, catching it on the loading eyes. To twist the wire we use a metal rod, for example, a crowbar.

Pay attention to the waterproofing of the seams between the rings! If water leaks through the seams, this will lead to contamination of the well. To seal the seams, you should use a substance that will not affect the quality of the water.

External and internal sealing of concrete rings with traditional bituminous materials

We strengthen the seams according to the following scheme.

Step 1. Place pieces of linen rope in the voids between the rings (an excellent material - natural and environmentally friendly).

Step 2. Cover the ropes with a solution of sand, cement and liquid glass. By doing this we will achieve reliable waterproofing, which will also be completely neutral when in contact with water.

Step 3. On top of the upper rings, dig a meter-deep pit.

Step 4. Waterproof the outer surface of the rings using liquid bitumen mastic.

Step 5. Place a thermal insulation layer around the upper rings (we can use any foamed polymer, for example, polystyrene foam).

Step 6. Fill the pit around the well with clay. This is called a "clay castle".

Instructions for water supply installation

In order for the system to work without interruptions, it is necessary to think through each stage of the equipment’s operation and read additional information on how to install plumbing. It is important to choose quality equipment. In addition, you should pay special attention to the following details:

1. Compliance with all requirements for the operating condition of the well.
2. Compliance with pipe laying rules.
3. Putting the internal wiring in order.

The types and methods of installing a well depend on the size and purpose.

Well waterproofing

Any well needs reliable waterproofing for the following reasons:

1. It is necessary to exclude the ingress of groundwater flowing near the ground. It is important to fix the leak in a timely manner so that the well remains suitable for obtaining water. Often fecal matter, petroleum products, organic compounds, salts, alkalis, bacteria, and chemicals are detected in the liquid, which make drinking water unacceptable.
2. Concrete is a durable material, but even it is destroyed by acids and salts. Over time, the material becomes loose and crumbles, losing its durable qualities.
3. To increase the resistance of the material to aggressive environments, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing at the stage of creating rings for the well. This will prevent dirty water from entering through the walls of the rings.

Pipe laying principle

When waterproofing is carried out, do not rush to bury the rings; you need to lay the pipes and make an insert, following the following tips:

1. The laying of the water supply from the well must be below the freezing level so that the water does not freeze at subzero temperatures. Data on the level of soil freezing can be obtained from the administration.
2. It is better to use polyethylene pipes for water supply. To supply the house, you should use pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.
3. Experts recommend laying pipes in two lines, especially since they are inexpensive. The first pipe will be the main one, the second (backup) may be needed in emergency situations. Thanks to this method, there is no need to dig trenches and replace pipes.
4. You should not lay pipes on the ground; it is important to build additional protection; for this, larger diameter pipes with or without insulation are used. If the pipe is located below the freezing level, it does not need insulation.

Internal wiring device

Internal installation of pipes is carried out in one of two ways: collector, sequential. The sequential option is suitable for houses that use several water intake points, and access to the pipes remains open. Several branches extend from the main point, and if several of them are used, the water pressure weakens. With the collector type, each tap is the final output of a separate communication system, independent of each other.

Equipment selection

In order to carry water from the well to the house, you must use only modern equipment:

• pump;
• pipe filters;
• water heater;
• hydraulic accumulator

Commissioning

If you think you dug a well and that's the end of it, not at all. You still have a series of daily exercises to do. You can do them yourself, without any help. First you need to waterproof the walls from the outside, then clean and wash the walls from the inside and pump out the water - clean the well.

After the well is dug, it takes a couple of days for the rings to settle and take their places. At this time, nothing needs to be done inside, but you can do external waterproofing.

Waterproofing

If the well was made using the second method - first they dug a shaft, then installed the rings - this stage is a little simpler. You will need to widen the gap slightly to make a waterproof seal. If the rings were installed right away, you will have to dig a decent ditch around. At least until the middle of the second ring. When the soil has been removed, we proceed to waterproofing.

It is best to use a coating. You can use bitumen mastic, you can use other compounds. In principle, you can fuse or glue roll waterproofing, or in the worst case scenario, wrap it in film. Film is the cheapest, but it will last no more than two years, and only if you buy it expensive and reinforced.

Waterproofing, on top of which insulation is laid (foam shell)

Since you dug a well anyway, insulate it. You may not be at your dacha in winter for now, but maybe later the cold weather will come. So make sure you have water in advance.

Cleaning walls and internal sealing of seams

A couple of days after the well has been dug and the glass has sunk, you go down inside with a broom and sweep the walls. Then you wash the walls: you pour them on them and sweep them with a clean broom. Douse it again, then with a broom. The water was pumped out and drained away. The next day the procedure was repeated. So - five, seven, ten days. Until the inside and water become clean.

One more thing. Not all teams immediately coat the joints of the rings. Then after the first cleaning you need to coat the joints with a solution (cement:sand in a ratio of 1:3). To improve the effect, you can add PVA or liquid glass (instead of some of the water, or dilute the PVA with water). It is also advisable to ensure against horizontal shifts of the rings. Especially if they don't have locks. To do this, adjacent rings are fastened with metal plates, which are attached to anchors. This measure is strictly necessary on unstable loose or highly heaving soils.

Connecting rings with metal (preferably stainless steel) plates

After the walls are washed, the water is pumped several times, you can use the water. But to prevent anything from attacking inside, it is necessary to close it.

For some of the features of digging wells and cleaning them, watch the video.