What is lawn scarification and when is the best time to do it?

Lawn scarification is a method that allows you to clean and renew your lawn. When the time comes to carry out scarification, and this is done at least once every 2 years, the gardener’s main task is to loosen the soil, remove impassable turf, the latter being formed by the roots of lawn grass. During the growth process, the grass creates such a dense carpet that the sun's rays and moisture do not penetrate to the soil and roots, which means the lawn does not grow intensively and loses its rich shade. We will talk about the rules of scarification and how to make a scarifier with your own hands.

What is lawn scarification?

Scarification is one of three agrotechnical measures, without which you cannot get a strong, lush, healthy and beautiful lawn: verticulation, scarification and aeration. These events are often confused, let us remind you how they differ.

Steven58FORUMHOUSE Member

Verticulation - vertical cutting of turf. The roots are cut, and this stimulates the formation of new grass bushes. This also removes (the moss/felt that is in the turf rises to the surface). And scarification - roughly speaking - combing out dry grass, straw, which is located at the level from the top of the roots and above.

Lawn aeration most often refers to piercing the turf, which increases the level of contact between the turf and air.

Scarification is a more gentle measure for the lawn than verticulation, but even after it the lawn looks scary for some time. Experience shows that all the grass that is pulled out soon grows back, and the lawn after this procedure feels better than before. But - this is if everything is done correctly.

Features of choice

Factory models of scarifiers are: manual, electric and gasoline.

The manual rake is an advanced lawn rake with wheels equipped with wire teeth. Some models have rotating mechanical wheels. These devices are the cheapest, within 5 thousand rubles.

Electric - also wheels with spikes, the mechanism is driven by an electric motor. Cost - from 10 thousand. Electrical devices overheat quickly: approximately every quarter of an hour you need to take a break of about 10 minutes to allow the device to cool down.

Simple models leave the grass in place; after processing, it must be collected with a rake. More expensive ones are equipped with grass collectors, like lawn mowers. The grass catcher also allows you to remove fallen leaves.

The electric device can perform two functions at once - scarification and aeration. This unit has two replaceable shafts, with spokes and with cutters. The combination model costs more, but ultimately costs less than the two devices separately.

A serious drawback of electric models is their dependence on electricity: you have to run wires to the place of work. Rechargeable models are available for sale. They cost more, the continuous operation time depends on the battery capacity.

A gasoline device is more powerful and more expensive, costing from 20 thousand to 100 thousand or more. Autonomous, high performance. As a rule, there is already a built-in aerator. In addition to the high price, there is another serious drawback: the most noise during operation.

The quality of work and the depth of the knives depends on the complexity of the unit (and accordingly, on the price): the depth for cheap models is 4 millimeters, for expensive ones it is 7 centimeters or more.

How to choose a model? Pay attention to the following characteristics:

• power and service life – operating time without stopping for cooling;
• the width of the working nozzle - the larger it is, the fewer passes will be required to process the area;
• The body material should be strong, but light, so as not to exert unnecessary soil pressure. For household models, the cases are made of aluminum or plastic, for powerful professional models – of steel;
• presence and size of the grass catcher. Sometimes it is easier to collect the grass after raking than to regularly stop work to clean the tank;
• cutters must be made of high quality steel and securely fastened;
• presence of an adjustable handle.

If you regularly care for your lawn, a model that penetrates the soil a few millimeters is sufficient. In advanced cases, a deep penetration gasoline device (up to 10 centimeters) with high power is needed.

Where does thatch come from in the lawn?

Straw is dead old grass. Most types of lawn grass reproduce not only by seeds, but also by division, with the plant producing side shoots, “offshoots.” They are divided into two types

• Stolons grow above the soil surface.
• rhizomes grow slightly below the soil surface.

This ability to reproduce vegetatively allows herbs to quickly grow into a lush carpet; the grass grows tightly together and becomes a healthy lawn. This is good.

But “only good” is the first two or three years, then problems begin. During this time, old shoots die off and new ones grow. Dead grass decomposes at a snail's pace - decomposition is prevented by the chemical compound lignin in its composition. A layer of dry grass accumulates in the lawn, intertwines with new shoots, rolls up, and becomes compacted.

How to use a verticutter and why do you need such a tool?

The power take-off shaft activates the cutting tool, allowing it to dump the collected grass and products after cleaning into a special grass catcher bag. The depth of processing can be determined by adjusting the handle, as well as adjusted to the height of the operator.

To understand in more detail how the scarifier works, you need to read the operating instructions for the purchased model.

What tasks does it perform?

• Improves grass growth without the use of fertilizers;
• Helps increase the lawn's resistance to drought;
• Normalizes the level of soil density;
• Allows you to reduce soil dampness by creating drainage systems;
• Removes the dry layer of grass and inhibits the formation of a new one;
• Promotes the penetration of necessary moisture and oxygen into the soil.

It is worth noting that verticutter knives are made from a special, ultra-strong and resistant material, so they will perform all of the above operations with maximum productivity.

When to scarify your lawn

A thin layer of straw, up to 5 mm, does not harm the lawn, quite the contrary. It works like mulch: it does not interfere with the access of oxygen, water and nutrients to the root system, and even protects the roots from evaporation and overheating. And a thicker layer not only impedes the path of water, nutrition and oxygen to the oxygen roots, but also in itself becomes an ideal environment for fungal diseases and weeds like clover.

Experts recommend scarification when the thickness of the straw layer is 5-10 mm.

Typically, a lawn accumulates this layer in the first two years of its life.

How to check the thickness of the layer: dig up a small piece of the lawn in different places and look at the thickness of the turf. If the straw layer is thinner than 5 mm, it is better to refrain from scarification so as not to damage the lawn. Scarification is not a first aid measure; it does not need to be done every time the lawn becomes “sad,” without finding out the reasons.

When to aerate?

How often to aerate a lawn depends on its age, soil type, weather, operating conditions of the grass surface, and frequency of fertilization.

Usually, 1-2 aeration procedures per season are sufficient - in the spring, when the soil is especially waterlogged and compacted, and also in the fall when preparing the cover for the winter period. However, in some cases, loosening is required in the summer:

• on clay and chernozem soils prone to caking - 3 - 4 times a year;
• on frequently trampled lawns, especially sports ones - monthly;
• after a long drought or, conversely, heavy rainfall;
• before applying fertilizing.

Young grass does not need to be aerated in the first two seasons. If your lawn is dominated by heat-loving varieties of grasses, then you should avoid autumn aeration.

You can determine whether your lawn currently needs ventilation by looking at the condition of the root system. To do this, you need to cut the turf and see how deep the plants have taken root. Loosening is required when the germination depth is less than 5 cm.

What grasses do not form thatch?

There are lawn grasses that grow straight up, without stolons, and are not clogged with thatch. The most famous of these grasses is ryegrass, with wide, dark green leaves without shoots. But it has other problems, many varieties of this grass are "tussocky", especially the older varieties that are widely used in popular grass seed mixtures.

SodmasterAgronomist, lawn specialist, FORUMHOUSE member

There are types of grasses that form tussocks, and there are types that do not form tussocks. To avoid bumps, you need to use exactly these types for your lawn.

But the bluegrass will not tussock under any agricultural technology. It remains the most popular lawn grass, and bluegrass lawns cannot do without scarification.

Weeding the lawn in autumn

If your lawn is filled with moss, fall is the ideal season to deal with it.

Weeding the lawn. The illustration for the article is used under the standard license ©sadvokrug.ru

The appearance of moss on the grass is also often due to the fact that the soil has become compacted over time and this prevents it from breathing normally, including the root system of the lawn. Moss-free grass is, above all, well-ventilated grass! It is advisable to carry out scarification every year.

When to scarify your lawn

Here is the best time for scarification:

• in March-April, after the snow has completely melted;
• in mid or late October.

Spring scarification is carried out not only to clean the lawn of straw and moss, it helps to “wake up” the grass and makes it begin to grow faster.

Ttt777tttFORUMHOUSE Member

The soil should be neither too dry nor too wet. It can be before the grass begins to grow, or it can be with the beginning. But there is no need to delay.

The best conditions for scarification are when the soil is already (or still) warming up, and there will definitely be some rain, which will speed up the restoration of the lawn. If the layer of straw on the lawn is thick, more than a centimeter, then it is better to leave scarification until the fall to avoid problems with weeds - in the spring they will strive to penetrate the soil that is open after treatment.

For this operation, it is better to choose a dry day, and even the second half of it, so that the grass is definitely dry, including from dew. Your technique and your back will thank you.

Detailed instructions for lawn aeration

Before you start piercing the soil, mow the grass to a level of 5 cm and carry out a merciless fight against weeds, otherwise aeration will provoke their rapid growth. A few days before the procedure, thoroughly water the area so that the soil is soft and pliable.

To avoid damage to the cover, aeration should not be carried out in hot weather. To obtain the maximum effect, loosening should be done in cross rows at a distance of 3 - 4 cm. The depth of the punctures should be 10 - 15 cm.

A couple of days after airing, use a rake to break up the clods of earth that were removed to the surface. Then water the lawn, sow grass seed in bare areas, add fertilizer and sand if necessary.

How to do scarification

Ideally, you should start preparing for this event in advance:

• Three weeks before scarification: treat the lawn with a weed killer. If your lawn has no weed problems at all, and the famous “four weeds per acre” rule is followed, you can skip this stage.
• 2 weeks before scarification: mow the lawn to a height of 5 cm. It is better not in one go, but in several, with an interval of 3-4 days, shorter each time.
• 1 week before scarification: if the lawn is affected by moss, treat it with herbicide and the day before scarification, remove it with a fan, or better yet, a special lawn rake.

AgrostemmaForumHouse participant

I have long been convinced in practice that manually combing small areas of lawns is much more effective.

Whatever scarifier you use, manual, electric or gasoline, this activity is always performed in several passes, starting from the corner.

First pass : you need to move along the lawn in the same way as with a mower: along the long side to the end, then step inside and move back, and so on until the end of the lawn. Then you need to collect all the debris with a rake or a lawn mower that pulls in the grass.

Second pass: move along the lawn at an angle of 54 degrees relative to the first pass in order to cover the entire lawn diagonally. If necessary, you can make several more passes, it is important that each one is at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the previous one.

The “45 degree angle” method is less traumatic for the lawn than the well-known “lengthwise and crosswise” method.

On the last pass, the blades should cut 5mm into the soil: this is ideal for reseeding seeds.

But movements must be careful not to tear out too large pieces of lawn. It's easy to damage your lawn!

This is what a lawn looks like when our user with the nickname Artemych “walked through it with a scarifier” set to too great a depth.

ArtemychForumHouse Member

The scarifier pulled out almost all the grass. We decided not to experiment further.

Nothing bad happened, the lawn soon grew back. But it is better to set the unit to the very minimum.

The first time after this event, the lawn will always look terrible. It’s good that if the weather continues to be warm with light rains, the lawn will quickly recover. In the spring, you can oversow seeds to reduce the chances for weeds and spread fertilizer.

How to make a scarifier with your own hands

To create a gasoline or electric model of a 2in1 scarifier and aerator, you will need a certain skill and raw materials, which are also not cheap. Technology:

• A roller is made from a piece of metal pipe (diameter 100 mm, length up to 60 cm).

Advice! To increase the weight, sand or crushed stone can be poured inside the skating rink.

• Along the perimeter of the skating rink, nails are attached in a checkerboard pattern, which, under pressure during use of the device, will pierce the turf. The distance between nails in a row does not exceed 6-7 mm.
• The roller is closed on each side with plugs through which a pipe passes, attaching the roller to the handle.

After using a homemade scarifier, it is recommended to thin the lawn and collect the turf with a simple rake.

DIY lawn scarifier

If you don’t have time to create a scarifier, you can purchase inexpensive attachments for shoes. This device is put on a boot or sneakers, and then you should carefully walk along the lawn. The small bayonets on the nozzle effectively pierce the lawn, providing an influx of oxygen. The cost of nozzles starts from 500 rubles.

conclusions

• Scarification of the lawn must be carried out; without this, the root system of the grass will not receive sufficient nutrition, water and oxygen.
• It is better to do it not in the usual “lengthwise and crosswise” way, but to perform each pass at an angle of 45 degrees after the previous one.
• You can’t scarify the lawn just because it’s “somehow dull”; you need to make sure that the straw layer is thicker than 5 mm.
• After spring scarification, it is recommended to sow the seeds - this will reduce the chances of weeds.

The intricacies of lawn maintenance have been discussed on FORUMHOUSE for several years. Learn how to hydroseed your lawn yourself, read about the advantages and disadvantages of a white clover lawn and a flowering Moorish lawn. Check out our article on how to care for your lawn after winter. In our video, a landscape designer talks about proper lawn care.

What devices are needed

Industrial scarifiers are more convenient to use and are divided into 2 types:

1. With electric motor. The price of the cheapest model is around 6.5 thousand rubles.
2. With a gasoline engine. The price of the most inexpensive model starts from 15 thousand rubles.

Gasoline units used for thinning neglected areas are considered more powerful. Electric ones cannot cope with a large amount of work and overheat, so after 15 minutes of thinning it is worth turning off the device for 5-10 minutes.

Lawn scarifier

The cost of the device directly affects the quality of its work and the ability to deepen the knives. For example, in cheap devices the depth may not exceed 4 mm, in expensive devices it may exceed 70 mm.

Advice! Modern models can be 2in1 devices, performing aeration and scarification of the lawn.

But such devices are quite expensive; most often they are used by large country houses, owners of public institutions with lawns, parks, etc. For a small summer cottage you can make a scarifier yourself

Operating principle and design features

The answer to the question of what a scarifier is has been addressed. But it is important to understand the features and operating principle of the device so that there are no problems using the device in the future. In addition, this will help you choose the right model based on price and technical characteristics. The process of using a scarifier is comparable to the process of combing grass and removing unnecessary objects, small debris and other contaminants from it. If you push the knives deeper into the soil, the tool will loosen the soil. After this, the lawn will not look very neat, but a little later it will look perfect. In addition, the device allows you to quickly deal with a number of problems:

• Ventilates roots and saturates them with moisture and oxygen.
• Protects against pests and fungi.
• Makes the lawn neat and attractive.
• Improves the growth of new grass.

Additional Information!

Lawn owners understand when to carry out the procedure by the length of the plant roots - if the length does not exceed 5 cm, it is too early to treat the area.

Additional tip for the end

The above devices are quite simple to manufacture, and any craftsman who knows how to work with a welding machine, grinder and hand tools can easily cope with the task. But what to do if none of the listed materials are at hand or there is no possibility of manufacturing the devices themselves?

For effective lawn aeration, you can always use the simplest analogues. For example, you can take an ordinary garden rake. By placing them with their points down and pressing with your foot, you can pierce a whole series of holes. The downside is that you have to bend down every time to pull out the teeth without digging up the soil, and besides, the soil often sticks to the rake.

Another simple option is a pitchfork. They allow you to make 3-4 holes in one go, and you can work while standing, without bending over and without loading your lower back. The disadvantage of a fork is that due to the small number of teeth, the work of piercing the soil becomes long and tedious. However, this option can be considered as the cheapest and simplest alternative to the tools described above.

Loosening the lawn with a pitchfork

Which method would you prefer? How do you solve the issue of lawn aeration on your property? Share your opinion in the commentary, and thereby you will help hundreds of summer residents across the country get a beautiful, lush and green lawn in their front garden or backyard.

Improving the lawn using sanding

After clearing the ground and improving air exchange, it is necessary to add and evenly distribute the salt-sand mixture. Sand needs medium grain size.

Sanding is applied directly in those places where you plan to sow new grass in the spring.

Grains of sand fall into all the voids and absorb excess water. The effect of which treatment is as follows:

1. The soil surface becomes smoother and the grass grows more evenly;
2. The roots are healed and strengthened;
3. The quality of the turf becomes better, aeration is more effective.

Adding a mixture of salt and sand is simply necessary for heavy and damp soil. Sanding on other soil is not recommended.

Thus, scarification is simply necessary for the normal growth and development of plants. With improved air supply to the soil, the effectiveness of the method increases. Aeration is carried out annually.

Materials

The greatest interest is caused by devices made by hand for use in large areas. The main materials for constructing such a unit are presented:

• metal pipe D 10 cm - 100 cm long or a little more;
• sheet iron;
• corners;
• nails 10 cm long or a little more - two or three dozen;
• shaft and bearings for moving the device.

Treating a large lawn with traditional lawn shoes or aeration rakes is irrational, since in this case the aeration process will require a lot of effort and time, so the best option would be to use a convenient and practical mechanical drainage unit.

All materials used in the process of creating aeration equipment must be durable, strong and easy to process.