When to plant climbing roses in open ground? Support for a climbing rose. Where is the best place to plant a climbing rose?

• September 16, 2019
• Flowers
• Lyudmila Storozhenko

Climbing, climbing plants will decorate any area, regardless of the style of landscape design. And if it’s also a bright rose blooming with delicate buds, it might even be difficult to find a better option. To grow this beauty, you need to know the rules for caring for this plant. You need to consider when to plant a climbing rose in open ground. How to properly grow this climbing flower on your site, we will consider further.

Description of the plant

How and when to plant a climbing rose should be considered before you start growing a flower on your site. You need to understand in what conditions it will feel good and will thank its owners with lush flowering.

You need to understand what kind of plant this is. This species includes many climbing roses. They differ in some characteristics. So, the rambler rose belongs to the first category. It is a climbing plant that has long arching or creeping branches. Their length reaches 5 m or more. Plants of this group have small leaves. Semi-double simple flowers have a weak aroma and reach 2.5 cm in diameter. They are located along the entire length of the branches. Rambler rose blooms in the first half of summer for about a month. If you are choosing the best varieties of climbing roses that can withstand even severe frosts (under cover), give preference to this group of plants.

As a result of the hard work of breeders, rose varieties of the climber group were developed. These are climbing plants, the shoots of which reach a length of 4 m. These are large-flowered climbing roses. Their buds reach a diameter of 4 cm or more. Many representatives of plants of this subspecies bloom twice a year. Almost all varieties of this group are winter-hardy climbing roses that bloom all summer. At the same time, they are resistant to pests and diseases and thrive in the local climate.

The third group includes climbing varieties. They do well in the southern regions. These are plants with large flowers, the diameter of which ranges from 4 to 11 cm. They grow singly or form a small group of inflorescences. Many climbing plants bloom twice a season. These are roses that cannot tolerate severe frosts.

Growing

Climbing roses are fairly easy to grow as they grow roots quickly, so they can be planted in both spring and fall. Not every variety from different groups can be planted in the fall, since the roots are shallow in the first year and the possibility of freezing is high.

So, climbing varieties are hardy plants and are suitable for both beginners and professionals.

The root system of climbing roses is one of the deepest, reaching about 2 meters. In addition, climbing roses are not demanding in terms of growing conditions and are not so affected by diseases and pests.

Some of the most common diseases they attack include spider mites, aphids, powdery mildew and blight. You can learn about methods of struggle and treatment in this article.

Reproduction

Climbing roses are propagated in the garden in different ways. Several techniques can be used. They involve breeding these plants by seeds, layering, cuttings, and grafting. They differ in a number of features. The easiest way is propagation by layering. But when using cuttings there are usually no difficulties.

If you decide to propagate roses with seeds, then you need to purchase seed material at garden stores. If you collect it from plants yourself, they will not retain the characteristics of their variety. Therefore, it is difficult to predict what this plant will look like. You can, of course, experiment if it is not important for you to grow a rose with exactly the same characteristics as a year ago. But it will still be more advisable to purchase seeds.

Climbing climbing roses are most easily propagated by layering. The shoot must be selected in the spring. It is incised below the level of the kidneys. Next, the stem is placed in the prepared hole. It should be about 10-15 cm wide. The hole should be the same depth. A layer of humus sprinkled with soil is laid down. The cuttings need to be fixed in several places. It is covered with soil. The tip of the layer should remain above the surface. The next year, the cuttings are separated from the mother bush. It can be transplanted to your chosen location on the site.

Another simple way is to graft roses. This can be done with rosehip root. To do this you will need the eye of a cultivated rose. Budding is carried out at the end of July or in August. It is necessary to water the rose hips generously before carrying out this procedure. You need to make a cut in the shape of the letter “T” on the root collar. You need to pry the bark and pull it away from the shoot a little.

From the rose cutting you need to cut off the eye and the adjacent bark with a layer of wood. The peephole is tightly inserted into the prepared incision. This place is tightly fixed using budding material. Above the grafting site (approximately 5 cm), the rose hips are spudded. The bandage is loosened after 15 days. The film is removed completely next spring.

Pests

Signs of a spider mite

Seeds

Have you thought about planting climbing roses in open ground? Then you should familiarize yourself with information about the methods by which this plant is propagated. If you want to get it from seeds, you need to buy planting material in the store. They are placed in a sieve, which is lowered into a bowl. You need to pour hydrogen peroxide into it. This allows the seeds to be disinfected. During stratification, the likelihood of mold appearing will be much lower.

After this, you need to moisten a cotton pad with hydrogen peroxide. Prepared seeds are placed on it. They are covered with a second, equally impregnated disk. Each pair must be placed in a separate plastic bag. You need to write on them the name of the variety and the date. You need to transfer all the bags into a separate container and place it in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

Check the condition of the seeds. If you notice mold, treat the seed again with hydrogen peroxide. Use new cotton pads for this.

After one and a half or even two months, the seeds will germinate. They need to be transferred to individual peat tablets or miniature pots. The surface should be mulched with a small layer of perlite. Seedlings should be in a lighted place for 10 hours a day. After two months, the first buds will appear on the plants. After another month they will bloom. Climbing rose seedlings need proper watering. The soil is moistened as it dries.

When to plant climbing roses grown from seeds? This needs to be done in the spring. Consider the characteristics of your climate. The warmer it is, the sooner this can be done.

Cuttings

Even an inexperienced gardener can grow a climbing rose from cuttings. This is the easiest way. The result in this case is almost one hundred percent. When to plant a climbing rose that is propagated from cuttings? It depends on the time when you prepared the shoots. Typically this procedure is carried out from mid-June until the first week of August.

The segment you choose for this purpose must have at least two internodes. A lower cut is made under the kidney. It should be inclined at 45°. The top cut must be straight. It should go as far from the kidney as possible.

The lower leaves must be removed from the cut cuttings. The top sheets are shortened by half. You need a pot or other container with a substrate of sand mixed with soil. A cutting is stuck into it to a depth of approximately 1 cm. The shoot is covered with a plastic bottle or jar. The container is placed in a lit place. It is necessary to protect the plant from direct sunlight.

Water the soil in the pot without removing the jars. If the variety you choose does not take root well, before planting the cutting, the cut must be treated with a root-forming compound. However, in most cases this is not required.

So that your efforts are not in vain, you need to know how to plant climbing roses. They are quite capricious in this matter.

Landing rules

There are several recommendations on how to plant climbing roses. They need to be taken into account before starting to grow this plant. The fact is that all roses are quite capricious. Climbing varieties are no exception. Therefore, you need to organize the process of growing them correctly. You need to choose the right site.

Climbing roses need plenty of bright light. But it should hit the plant in the first half of the day. In this case, the dew on the leaves will dry quickly. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of developing fungal diseases.

But it is also worth considering that when the sun is at its zenith, it can cause burns on the leaves and buds. Therefore, you need to consider appropriate midday protection for this plant.

Another unfavorable phenomenon that can negatively affect the health and well-being of roses is draft and wind. The plant needs to be protected from this. Therefore, consider a fencing system. Do not plant climbing roses on the corners of buildings. There is often a draft here.

When choosing where to plant a climbing rose, it should be noted that the best place for it will be the south side of the house. At the same time, it does not require much space. For the rose, you will need to allocate an area about 0.5 m wide. In this case, the nearest object (wall or other plant) should be at least 50-100 cm away from it.

It is also important to pay attention to the soil in which the rose will grow. It should be permeable soil where groundwater does not come close to the surface. It is best for the site to be on a slope. If the groundwater is quite close, artificial elevations are made so that moisture does not stagnate in the roots. In some cases, the roots go down to a depth of 2 m.

Climbing roses grow best on loam. Too light or heavy soils will need to be adapted to the needs of this plant (sand is added to clay soils, and vice versa). Humus and phosphorus fertilizer are also added to the soil. It is recommended to prepare a site for growing roses six months before the start of the season.

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Choosing a healthy seedling

As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers. The advantage of purchasing bare-root bushes is that you have the opportunity to examine the development of the root system. Seedlings of the highest category have at least three stems, medium ones - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots; they may show signs of disease. The root system should be well developed (the diameter of the root collar is about 8–10 mm). Carefully scratch one of the roots with your fingernail: the roots should be elastic and white. Roses with bare roots can only be purchased during the main planting period, since even short-term storage can lead to drying out of the root system. Capped-root seedlings are a more reliable option. Their advantage is the protection of the root system from various damages during transportation. You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of the plant in advance and make sure that it was not transplanted shortly before the time of sale. The advantage of container seedlings is a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.

Choosing a place to plant roses

Favorable place: well-lit part of the garden. The sun should illuminate the roses in the morning, while during the day a light shade is needed to protect them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that varieties of dark shades cannot be planted in direct sunlight - it is better to plant roses of light colors in this place. An unfavorable place for roses: the northern part of the garden, blown by the winds, as well as under trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, new young roses should not be placed next to old ones. If the bush is in constant shade, this leads to intensive vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and shakes the bush; the solution is to install a hedge; it should be done so as not to shade the roses. Favorable soil for roses. Light loamy soils, rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are ideal soils, but are rare. Less favorable soils for roses are light sandy and sandy loam soils; in winter they often freeze, and in summer they overheat, and nutrients are washed out of them more quickly. To enrich the soil, rotted manure, turf soil, peat and lime are added. Heavy clay soils, where moisture is retained for a long time, also require improvement. Such soils should be drained and sand, humus, compost, and peat should be added. With a lack of oxygen, respiration and root growth deteriorate, and excess moisture slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant. that is unfavorable for roses is waterlogged, swampy, with a high groundwater level. Excessive moisture in the area will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters. The soil for roses is preferably slightly acidic , pH (an indicator of the soil acidity level) is 6.0–6.5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acidic, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase acidity, peat and manure are added to the soil, and to get rid of toxins, ash, lime or dolomite flour are added. Swampy, saline and rocky soils should be avoided. In areas with cold climates and short summers, roses need alkaline soil. It is not recommended to root seedlings in places where rose bushes previously grew. Due to depletion, the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens. If there is no other option, remove the soil in a layer of 70 cm and fill in a new one.

Time to plant roses

Roses are planted before the buds open, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 ° C (in the south - in April, in the middle zone - in late April - early May). During spring planting, their roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the plant was purchased with already cut roots, the cuts need to be renewed. For park, climbing, and semi-climbing roses, the roots are slightly shortened and weak or damaged shoot tips are removed. For ground cover roses, only root sections are renewed. The shoots of tall roses are shortened by 10–15 cm, and of climbing roses by up to 35 cm. Immediately after planting, you need to shorten their branches above the sixth bud, and the stem shoots above the third. Floribunda roses leave 3–4 buds, while hybrid tea roses leave 2–3. Roses planted in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and carefully shade the seedlings from the sun. Spring planting is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during planting it becomes even more compact and difficult to loosen. It is strongly recommended to plant standard roses in the spring, since flowers of this particular variety can hardly tolerate autumn planting. Spring is the optimal period for planting roses in mountainous areas. In autumn, roses are planted from the first ten days of September until mid-October - so that the shoots have time to take root before frost. If a rose with an open root system is being planted, then planting such a seedling earlier is undesirable: the plant will begin to spend too much energy on the growth of young shoots and buds, and as a result will weaken and may not withstand the winter cold. And if roses are planted later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to take root, will not survive the winter well, and may even die. When planting in autumn, only damaged branches and the ends of broken shoots are cut off. You can also eliminate unripe shoots, leaving only 3–5 of the strongest ones. It is better to postpone pruning shoots with several eyes until spring. Roses planted in autumn are pruned for the first time the following spring, lubricating the pruning areas with garden varnish. in summer , but in this case the seedlings must have a closed root system. Roses grown in containers can be planted throughout the season If the plants were purchased in the fall, but frost hit, it is no longer advisable to plant them; it is better to bury them in a shady place until spring, lowering them at an angle into the ground 10 cm below the budding site. Be sure to moisten dry roots by placing the seedling in a bucket of water for two hours. When digging, the bushes are watered abundantly, covered with earth, lightly trampled and wrapped.

How to prepare roses for planting

The day before planting, roses are placed in water for 10 hours. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 20 cm, and damaged ones are cut back to healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches and trim the remaining ones. In this case, five buds are left on strong shoots, three on less strong shoots, and weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base. Depending on the variety, during spring planting the shoots are pruned as follows: for hybrid teas - up to 10–15 cm, for floribundas - up to 20 cm, for park ones - only the tops. In climbing roses, they try to preserve the lashes. Miniature, ground cover, bush plants do not need pruning. For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding one tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to one bucket of solution. When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned; only the dried tops of the shoots are removed until they reach healthy wood; the roots are cut to 20–25 cm.

Subtleties of planting and preparing roses

The rose seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened. Consider the correct planting depth for grafted roses. The grafting site (the thickening between the roots and branches) should be 2–3 cm below ground level. It is important that the soil fits tightly to the roots. The seedling is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, the position of the grafting site is checked. If the ground has settled, the seedling is raised a little and soil is added. Then they hill it up to 20–25 cm and shade it for 10–12 days. After planting, monitor the soil moisture. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4–5 days. If the soil on the site does not meet the necessary requirements for planting roses and you need to use a potting mixture, then the planting technique is slightly different. The mixture is poured into a mound at the bottom of the hole, and a layer of fertile soil without fertilizers is sprinkled on top to protect the roots from burns. They put up a bush, cover it again with soil without fertilizers and compact it. Otherwise there are no differences. Make a hole around the planted bush and, watering, fill it to the brim with water three times. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is covered with earth. Then the seedlings are hilled up so that all shoots to a height of 20 cm are closed - this protects them from drying out. After the sprouts reach 2–5 cm, the roses are unplanted, and the soil around is sprinkled (mulched) with humus, compost, straw or peat in a layer of 4–6 cm. Climbing roses should be planted so that the grafting site is 8–10 cm lower surface level, which promotes the development of grafted shoots. After planting, roses should also be hilled. If a climbing rose grows near the wall of a house, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall. It is recommended to plant a standard rose by attaching its trunk to a support, otherwise it will not withstand its own weight. The support is installed in the hole before the plant is placed there. The support must be strong and reach the crown to protect the plant from strong winds. The rose is attached to the support at the level of the crown firmly and so that the tie cannot slide down the trunk and support.

Rose planting process

Preparing the soil for planting roses

In the place where you plan to plant the rose, you should remove the weeds, dig up and fertilize the soil, and prepare planting holes. The soil where the rose will grow must be dug to a depth of 40–50 cm and large doses of organic fertilizers must be added at the rate of 1.5–2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is also applied. Adding stove ash is also useful. A hole for the rose is dug wide and deep (60x50 cm), so that after planting the budding site of the seedling is 5 cm below ground level. For spring planting, it is better to prepare planting holes in the fall, for autumn planting - in the spring. If this does not work out, the pits must be prepared at least two to three weeks before planting. Fertilizers and fertilizing are required. Sand is added to heavy clay soils and dug up, and humus is added to sandy soils. 10 days before planting, dig holes 50 cm deep for self-rooted roses and 70 cm deep for grafted ones, and fill them with water. After the water is absorbed, about three shovels of humus mixed with soil are placed in the planting hole. A week after these land procedures, the seedlings can be planted.

10–12 days after autumn planting, the plant develops small young roots, which harden before frost and overwinter well in an air-dry shelter. In spring, such roses develop simultaneously both root and above-ground parts, and a strong bush quickly forms. They bloom at the same time as the old ones.

Hilling roses

Regardless of what time of year the bush is planted, immediately after planting its above-ground part is hilled up, leaving only the upper part of the shoots uncovered. This stimulates the rooting of the young seedling, protects it from frost during autumn planting, and from the hot sun during spring planting. If plants are planted in the spring, they are unplanted when young shoots begin to grow; if in the fall, then only after winter, when it gets warmer. It is better to do this in cloudy or rainy weather, or in the evening.

Optimal distances between roses

When planting a large number of roses, the optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose. Between miniature roses the average distance is 35–50 cm, between roses of the grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea groups - 60 cm, between climbing and park roses - from 60 cm to 1 m, between semi-climbing roses - 1–1.2 m. If a living one is created hedges, roses need to be planted close (approximately the distance between them is 40–50 cm), and one climbing plant is planted to cover the gazebo and create an arch. Climbing varieties are best planted at a distance of 1–2 m near supports and arches. It is not recommended to plant roses too densely: they will begin to get sick, bloom poorly and lose foliage. In addition, dense plantings make it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rarely planting roses is also undesirable: in summer the soil around the bushes gets very warm and dries out.

Pruning roses

Roses need to be pruned annually in the spring, a couple of weeks after the insulation has been removed; the leaves have not yet blossomed, but the buds have already swelled. Spring pruning of roses is called molding. It is done by removing the cover from the plants, approximately in mid-to-late March. Pruning should only be done with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be 5 mm above the bud with a slight slope away from it. The shoots are pruned to healthy wood, to a bud located on the outside of the shoot. You need to cut off old, diseased, dry and weak shoots. For miniature roses, not only do they cut off the old branches, but also shorten all the shoots by half. In large and multi-flowered plants, weak shoots are cut off above the fifth or sixth bud, leaving the rest longer. In climbers, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. For standard roses grafted onto tall trunks, all shoots are pruned, leaving lashes about 20 cm long. Roses that bloom once are not pruned. In floribunda roses, cut off the inflorescences to the first shoot or to a bud oriented outward. Hybrid tea rose flowers are removed with two leaves. Ground cover varieties of roses and rose hips need only be pruned to give them a beautiful appearance. In order for the flowers of these roses to be large, it is necessary to remove part of the ovaries.

Good and bad neighbors of roses

Roses are like people - they do well with some plants, but not so much with others... The queen of flowers feels great next to clematis, worthy companions are also marigolds, calendula, foxgloves, crocuses, hosta, aquilegia, gladiolus, petunia. It would be very nice if edible or decorative garlic or lavender grew next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect rose bushes from pests and diseases. Poppy, lavender, narcissus, white wormwood, phlox, and astilbe will not interfere with roses. Tulips, lilies, daylilies, delphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral for her. But next to heucheras, sedums, saxifrage, aster, iris, peony, pansies, sweet peas, Turkish cloves, and cereals, the rose feels very bad - they oppress it.

Rose propagation

Roses for the garden can be propagated by grafting (this is the method mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as by layering, suckers, division, and cuttings. Roses are also grafted. We will describe other methods. Graft. Roses are grafted (by cutting or eye) onto rootstocks, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. The rootstock must have a powerful, well-branched root system, not produce wild growth, be frost-, drought- and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the scion. The main method of budding is through a T-shaped incision. It is better to do this vaccination in mid-July. First, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil and thoroughly wiped with a piece of cloth. Then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, the horizontal line should be about 1 cm. The bark is moved apart so that it is easy to insert the shield with the kidney. The next step: from cuttings cut from the middle part of mature shoots, from the bottom up we cut off a shield (a piece of bark with a dormant bud) with a small layer of wood, which we immediately remove. We insert the shield with the kidney into the T-shaped incision. We cut off the upper, protruding part of the shield at the level of the horizontal cut. After this, we wrap the grafting site tightly with budding film. After three weeks, we check the kidney for survival. If it does not turn black, but remains green and slightly swollen, the budding went well. Before the onset of cold weather, the grafted plants must be covered with earth approximately 7 cm above the budding, and in early spring they must be planted slightly below the grafting site. The upper part of the rootstock, departing about 1 cm from the graft, is cut into a spike and the budding film is removed. After a couple of weeks, the bud begins to actively develop and a shoot appears. To form a bush, we pinch the shoots above the third or fourth leaf.

by layering , but this method is best suited for ground cover and climbing roses. In spring, a one-year-old stem is bent from the bush. In the part that will be in the ground, make a small cut in the bark directly at the eye, which will stimulate root formation. Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered regularly. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in a vertical position. To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth. Next spring, the cuttings can be separated from the mother bush and replanted. Offspring. This is how park own-rooted roses are usually propagated, which are capable of producing root suckers that form during a period of intensive growth and extend from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after the soil has thawed, they are dug up, processed and planted in another place. Dividing the bush is the optimal way to propagate mainly climbing, park and miniature roses. In early spring, when the buds have not yet begun to grow, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. The root system must be preserved on each part. Then the plants are planted in a permanent place. Cuttings are the simplest and most affordable method of propagation. Well suited for climbing, miniature, groundcover, scrub, grandiflora, and some hybrid tea roses. There are several types of cuttings: green cuttings, lignified and root cuttings. Green cuttings are also called summer cuttings. Roses are propagated during the budding period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots from flowering, semi-lignified shoots during the flowering period are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cuttings 5–8 cm long, with two or three buds, are cut from them. The bottom leaf is removed and an oblique cut is made under its bud at a distance of 1.5–2 mm. The upper cut is made 1 cm above the bud. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then with a substance that stimulates root formation. You can root cuttings in greenhouses or indoors in pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are planted at an angle to a depth of 1.5–2 cm at a distance of 3–6 cm from each other, and the rows are planted at 8–10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22–25 °C with a humidity of 80–90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not over-moisten the soil, so that the cuttings do not die from waterlogging. As soon as the first leaves appear, the jars are removed and the cuttings are gradually hardened. When the bush becomes stronger, it is transplanted to a permanent place. Propagation by lignified cuttings. Well suited for climbing and miniature roses. Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall, during pruning of roses. For harvesting, take well-developed and ripened, smooth annual stems 4–5 mm thick. The upper part of the shoot is removed. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife or well-sharpened pruning shears, up to 20 cm long, with three to four buds each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is made just under the bud; in the upper part of the cutting, the cut should be made obliquely in the middle of the internodes (at an equal distance between the buds). The cuttings are tied into bundles, arranged according to variety, wrapped in burlap and stored in damp sand until spring at a temperature of 1–2 °C. In the spring they are taken out, the sections are renewed and immediately lowered into water. Having taken it out of the water, plant it obliquely in the soil and water it. Only the upper bud remains visible. After planting, the cuttings are covered with jars or film. When the cutting takes root, the shelter is removed. Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is carried out when the wood at the base of young shoots begins to ripen, harden and the bark turns brown. For cuttings, use the middle part of semi-lignified shoots at the flowering stage. Cuttings are harvested 7–10 cm long with 2-3 leaves. Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered. The prepared cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 1.5–2 cm. The boxes are placed in a dark place and covered with film. During the rooting period, high air humidity, optimal temperature (20–22 °C), and diffuse sunlight are important. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks. Root cuttings are prepared from the underground parts of suckers that remain in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected rhizomes are temporarily buried in a basement or empty greenhouse, and in November they are cut into pieces 3–cm long, placed in boxes filled with soil, and leaf humus is added. Sprinkle about 1 cm of earth on top. For the winter, the boxes are put in a cool place. The soil should be moderately moist. In early spring, boxes with cuttings are placed in a cold greenhouse, where their root system begins to develop and green shoots with leaves appear. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.

note

Usually in the first year all cuttings still have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in winter it is better to store them in a basement or cellar at a temperature of 0–5 °C. And only in spring are roses planted in beds for growing or in a permanent place. You can feed young seedlings from cuttings with mineral fertilizers only when they take root and begin to grow.

Watering roses

In summer, roses are watered with settled and heated water: twice a week for young bushes, once for adults. After watering and loosening, mulching is done - the ground around the bushes is covered with a 5–8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil during summer drought, reducing the number of weeds.

The structure of a rose bush

1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Imparipinnate leaf. 6. Five-lobed leaf. 7. Young one-year shoot. 8. Perennial woody shoot. 9. Axillary bud (eye). 10. Wild shoot or top from the rootstock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root collar. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Lateral roots. A rose bush consists of an above-ground part - the crown, and an underground part - the root system. The crown consists of last year's shoots, which are called skeletal shoots. Shoots formed from their buds in the current season are designated as first order shoots. In turn, shoots of the second order are formed from their buds, etc. In most varieties of roses, powerful replacement shoots (wen) grow from the lower buds of last year's shoots or from the root collar. In subsequent years they will form the basis of the bush. At the end of summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year shoots - I, II and III orders. The root system of roses is fibrous and, as a rule, goes into the soil to a depth of 50–60 cm.

Rose diseases

The most common rose diseases are powdery mildew, rust and black spot. Powdery mildew on roses is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. They become covered with a white coating, the leaves curl, and the shoots become bent. To cure a plant, in the fall all affected shoots must be cut off, the leaves burned, and the soil dug up. In the spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). Rust on roses. This diagnosis is given to a rose if rusty spots appear on it, and on its lower part there are bright orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores), which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. Shoots affected by rust are pruned. In early spring, before the buds open, the plants and soil around them are sprayed with any fungicide containing copper. In summer, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treat with the drug. Black spot on roses are small round brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf blade and causing premature leaf fall. When a disease is detected, diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the roots. And in the spring, before the buds bloom, the bushes and the soil around are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture (200–300 g per 10 l of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water).

Rose pests

Pests are a big problem for roses. The most common of them are: rose aphid, spider mite, scale insect, rose sawfly. Rose aphid. Larvae and adult insects settle on leaves and ends of shoots, suck sap and cause deformation. In damaged plants, the buds do not open. The pest develops in ten or more generations. To prevent the progression of the disease, the plant is provided with an influx of fresh air and the dosage of nitrogen-containing preparations is observed. If the leaves are affected, they are removed and the plant is sprayed with a soap solution or nettle infusion. Avoid the use of chemicals. Thrips. These flying insects suck the juice from the buds that are ready to bloom. Damaged petals become deformed and brown spots appear on them. Spider mite. When a mite appears, a cobweb is visible on the underside of the leaf, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of control: treatment with a decoction of field ivy, acaricides Sunmite and Caesar. Scale insects can settle in both dry and wet areas. It leaves a discharge on the plant, on which fungus subsequently appears. Control method: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil. To combat thrips, spider mites and scale insects, plants are treated with infusions and solutions. Rose sawfly. Its larvae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawflies emerge from the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of the young shoot. In these places the skin cracks and the shoot becomes bent. The larvae feed on leaves, eating them from the edges without touching the veins. Method of control: if a plant is damaged by a sawfly, treat the bushes with a solution of one of the following drugs: “Fufanon” (10 g per 10 l of water), “Inta-Vir” or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before buds open. In the fall, you should collect and burn all plant debris and dig up the ground under the bushes.

Sheltering roses for the winter

In September, watering and fertilizing are reduced. Before covering (before frost), it is better to remove (cut) the leaves. Roses are covered by hilling up to a height of 40 cm with earth, or they are wrapped in agrofibre. Climbing roses are removed, placed on material that will protect the shoots from moisture, and wrapped. Standard roses are bent to the ground before wrapping. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need shelter.

Fertilizer and feeding

Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil is well-dressed with fertilizers - 6-8 kg of humus, up to 200 g of wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt are added for each square meter. Roses should be fed with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings take root and begin to grow. At the end of May - beginning of June, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer (15–20 g/m2), at the end of June and July - nitrophoska (20 g/m2), in August - superphosphate (40 g/m2) and potassium salt (20 g /m2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose was fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations, then from mid-July they are no longer applied. Until mid-July, roses are fertilized with magnesium sulfate (20 g/10 l). This is the time for cutting roses.

Author: Tatyana Uminskaya

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Planting in autumn

Climbing roses can be planted in open ground in the fall (from late September to mid-October) or in the spring (from April to May). You need to choose the right planting material or prepare it yourself. There are usually no problems when purchasing seeds. If you purchase seedlings, carefully look at whether it is a grafted plant on a rosehip root or a self-rooted rose. The features of caring for the plant depend on this.

So, a grafted rose must be planted to such a depth that the scion site is 10 cm below the surface of the earth. Otherwise, the plant will become depleted and die. If there are buds below the grafting site, they are removed. Otherwise, rosehip shoots may develop from them.

If you are planting a plant that is not grafted, before carrying out this work you need to perform some manipulations before planting. To do this, you need to soak the roots in water, and then remove all the leaves from the plant, and cut off broken, immature shoots with pruning shears. Sprinkle the cuts with charcoal. The roots and above-ground parts need to be shortened to 30 cm. The seedlings need to be disinfected using a solution of copper sulfate.

Planting holes usually have a size of 50 x 50 cm, but you need to focus on the size of the roots. You need to leave a distance of about a meter between plants. The fertile layer of soil, removed when creating a depression, is mixed with manure. A little of this mixture is poured onto the bottom, watering the hole with a sufficient amount of water. This procedure is performed 2 days before planting.

Immediately before planting, treat the roots with an antiseptic solution (for 0.5 liters of water you need 3 tablets of Phosphorobacterin, 1 tablet of Heteroauxin), after mixing it with 9.5 liters of clay mash.

A mound of soil with manure is poured into the bottom of the hole. Seedlings are placed on it. The roots should be treated with mash. They are sprinkled with soil, and then the soil is compacted well.

Grafting climbing roses

Roses are grafted onto rose hips for only one purpose: to obtain and sell standard winter-hardy rose seedlings as quickly as possible (in 1-2 years) and cheaper. And self-rooted roses can be brought to such a standard only in 2-3 years, which is less profitable for producers due to the rise in price of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. In addition, self-rooted roses are obtained by cutting a cutting with three buds, while only one bud is used for rosehip grafting, which is much more profitable for growers. Grafted climbing roses, planted in such a way that the grafting site is above the soil surface, are short-lived compared to rooted roses, since rose hips are a deciduous plant, and cultivated roses are evergreen. During the growing season of grafted roses, such a mismatch between the scion and rootstock leads to gradual depletion of the entire plant.

Planting in spring

In spring, climbing roses are rarely planted. Plants that were planted during this period lag behind in their development. Therefore, it is better to leave this activity for the autumn period. But if you decide to land now, you need to pay attention to all the nuances of this procedure.

So, plants need to be shortened to 15-20 cm. The roots should be no longer than 30 cm. You need to choose the right companion plants. What to plant next to a climbing rose? They will be effectively complemented by, for example, clematis or green thujas. You can complement the composition with irises, bells or carnations. These plants will not embarrass the capricious rose.

After planting in open ground, seedlings are watered abundantly. They need to be hilled high and then covered with film. In greenhouse conditions, the plant will develop faster. The film needs to be lifted for a few minutes every day. The ventilation time is gradually increased. When consistently warm weather sets in, the area is mulched and the shelter is removed.

When to plant climbing roses

If planting is planned in the spring (this is especially true for self-rooted roses), then the best time for this activity is from mid-April to the third ten days of May, when the soil warms up to +10-12C. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are cut to 20-30 cm, leaving 3-4 strong shoots on each bush. After planting, the soil under the bushes is watered, hilled up and covered with film. It needs to be opened slightly every day to ventilate the seedlings, gradually increasing the intervals. This is how young roses harden. Once the threat of frost has passed, the cover can be removed.

Also, when choosing a planting date, you should take into account the characteristics of the variety of plant being planted. Some varieties, despite early planting, bloom later.

Rules of care

Almost any climbing rose requires special attention. Caring for this crop in open ground involves timely watering of the plant. It is necessary to add fertilizer to the soil, periodically trim the shoots, and also take appropriate actions to combat diseases.

Climbing roses grow next to a support. It is worth noting that this plant is very resistant to drought. It does not need abundant frequent watering. Roses need to be watered once a week. If the weather is humid, you can do this even less often. It is better to flood the bush less, but do it more often. The roots do not like stagnant moisture. Because of this, the rose may hurt. Each bush requires no more than 2 buckets of water.

To retain moisture in the soil, a few days after watering, the soil around it is loosened to a depth of about 6 cm. It is best to mulch the surface of the soil near the bush. Peat is used for this.

Young bushes are not fed until August. At the beginning of autumn, you can add potassium fertilizers to the soil. This will prepare the plant for winter. If the plant is already more than one year old, you need to apply mineral and organic fertilizers in turn. In the third year of life, roses need only organic fertilizers. During the growing season, fertilizers must be applied to the soil at least 5 times.

Shelter

Climbing roses need shelter: ramblers - light (hilling up the soil), others - air-dry. We cut off weak branches in September, and in August we stop watering, fertilizing with nitrogen, and loosening the soil. We add potassium, which strengthens plant tissue.

When constant sub-zero weather sets in (-6, -8 ° C) it covers by tucking the soil at the base.

Premature covering leads to growth and damping off of shoots due to lack of air.

The lashes are removed from the support, cutting out the damaged ones, twisted and tied with twine and pinned with hooks (wooden, metal) to the ground. You can put dry leaves, spruce branches, etc. there, and cover the top with a dense (air-permeable) material, on top of which we put a film, roofing felt, or board. In the spring (end of March - beginning of April) we remove the covers (best during cloudy weather or in the evening to avoid sunburn).

Support

The climbing rose definitely needs support. Their diversity is amazing. For these purposes, both a specially purchased structure and improvised items are suitable. For example, it could be an old tree on the site, a fence. You can order a support for climbing roses of various shapes and designs. This could be an arch or lattice, which will be made of metal, wood or plastic. The last option is the most preferable. Polymers are resistant to adverse environmental influences.

However, you should not choose a gray, faceless wall as a support. Even these beautiful plants will not be able to improve the appearance of an old utility shed for equipment. It is better to purchase a support for them separately.

It is worth noting that when the branches are fixed in a horizontal plane, flowers will appear along the entire length of the shoots. If you fix them in a vertical position, the buds will appear only in their upper part.

To secure the branches, you need to use twine made of polymer materials. Never use wire for these purposes, even if it is wrapped in cloth or paper. The supporting structure should be at least 50 cm away from the rose.

Trimming

Beginning gardeners are interested in whether climbing roses are pruned. This procedure helps to form a correct, beautiful crown. This also stimulates abundant flowering, which will be observed throughout the entire height of the bush. Therefore, if you want to give your rose a special decorative effect, be sure to prune it.

This procedure also allows you to maintain an almost continuous flowering process. Particular attention should be paid to shoots of the vegetative type. Flowering occurs mainly on the branches of the previous year. Pruning should be done in autumn and spring. During the growing season, dead shoots must be removed from the bush. The ends of the branches are pruned to a strong outer bud.

If a rose blooms once per season and has basal shoots on which buds appeared this year, they need to be cut out after the end of the growing season. Next year, flowering will be observed on the restoration shoots. They form from 3 to 10 pieces. Basal shoots are cut at the root. This procedure is carried out in the fall.

If a rose blooms twice a season, buds appear on its main shoots within 3 years. By the fifth year, this process weakens. Therefore, in early spring they are cut to the ground. This procedure is carried out in the fourth year of the plant’s life.

Possible problems and solutions

Yellowing of leaves