Description of the imperial hazel grouse: features of planting and caring for it

Author: Elena N. https://floristics.info/ru/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=19 Category: Garden plants Published: September 11, 2013Last edits: November 16, 2020

Perhaps the most common variety of fritillaria in our country is the imperial hazel grouse (Fritillaria imperialis) . Its bright orange flowers bloom in the spring and decorate the flowerbed with their unusual appearance until almost mid-June. The imperial hazel grouse expels the peduncle early, and therefore sometimes the budding period occurs during spring frosts. This may prevent fritillaria from flowering. But if the area with the imperial hazel grouse is sheltered from cold winds, then the plant can withstand frosts.

Description of the imperial hazel grouse

Fritillaria imperialis is a bulbous, beautifully flowering plant. It has green lanceolate leaves. The hazel grouse produces one peduncle reaching a length of 1.5 m. The stem is attached to the bottom of the bulb. After flowering, it dries out, and 1-3 buds appear at the attachment point.

The inflorescence consists of 6 buds, which, depending on the variety, are painted in different colors. The shape of the flowers resembles bells. Green bracts form on top of the inflorescence. Hazel grouse bloom in May, flowering lasts about 20 days.

Imperial hazel grouse blooms only in yellow, orange, red-orange colors

Imperial hazel grouse blooms in yellow, orange, or red-orange. And, if a flower shoot with buds of a different palette grows from the acquired bulb, then most likely it will be a different type of fritillaria. Therefore, you need to purchase seed material from trusted sellers.

Flower in the legend

Plants that are unusual for any reason, including fritillaria, are usually surrounded by legends and traditions that explain their extravagant and unusual appearance. In European countries, there is a widespread legend about why the royal crown (flower) “looks” at the ground with its bells. According to her, this plant was in the Garden of Gethsemane during the arrest of Jesus Christ after the betrayal of Judas, at that time its bells were snow-white and rushed to the sky.

When the Savior, leaving his disciples, went alone to pray, all the flowers around him bowed their heads to the very ground, but only the royal crown remained standing straight and proud. When Christ was taken into custody, his gaze fell on this plant. His gaze was filled with such sadness and melancholy that the fritillaria could not stand it and, bowing its flowers, “flooded” with the color of shame. Since then, her bells have been directed downward and painted red.

The most popular types and varieties

In addition to the imperial hazel grouse, the following types of hazel grouse are common:

Chess.
Kamchatsky.
Persian.
Assyrian.
Mikhailovsky.
Davis.

Checkerboard hazel grouse: planting and care in open ground
Breeders have developed many varieties of imperial hazel grouse, the most popular of which are the following:

Garland Star. This variety has a powerful stem, on which orange flowers appear in May. Its crown consists of a large number of buds.
Rubra. The height of the bush is 65-70 centimeters. The buds are brick or dark orange.
Strip Beauty. The inflorescence consists of golden-colored flowers; the petals have longitudinal red stripes. Flowering lasts about a month.
Lutea. Tall variety. The inflorescence consists of lemon-colored bells. The hazel grouse blooms in May.
Premier. Flower arrow variety high. Its top is crowned with an orange inflorescence with a purple tint.
Radden. The hazel grouse inflorescence is painted with a creamy-yellow palette. The peculiarity of the variety is its increased drought and cold resistance.
Sulferino. This is one of the ancient varieties of the crop. The petals are yellow at the base, gradually changing color to dark red.

Imperial hazel grouse variety Rubra

Additional information: in Europe, the flower received the name “Tears of Mary” because during flowering it “cries” with nectar.

Why was he called that?

Before considering the biological and agrotechnical features of growing imperial hazel grouse, let’s look at its names. This plant was first mentioned in botanical literature in 1570 under the name Corona imperialis (imperial crown) because of the upper, highly raised leaves, resembling a crown, crowned with bright bells. In Latin, the royal crown flower, the photo of which you see below, is called “fritillaria,” which translated means “dice cup” or “chessboard.”

Such names are associated with both the color and shape of the flowers in the form of inverted lilies. In most European countries, this plant is known as Mary's tears because large drops of nectar appear at the base of its flowers. But the British call them sad tulips or widow's veils. In Russia, the royal crown flower was sometimes called the tree of paradise, but most people know this plant as hazel grouse because of its similarity to this bird of the grouse family.

How to choose bulbs

Grouse flower: planting and care after flowering

To grow a healthy, beautiful imperial hazel grouse, great attention must be paid to the choice of seed material. The bulb should be dense, elastic, without traces of mold or damage. Its shape is a flattened ball.

The bulbs should be dense, without signs of damage

The larger the bulb purchased, the sooner the gardener will wait for flowering. In order for the hazel grouse to bloom the next year, it must be at least 8 centimeters in diameter.

We buy planting material

If no one among your neighbors and friends grows fritillaria, then buying bulbs of this perennial will not be difficult. Today they are sold at a variety of flower exhibitions, specialized breeding stations, garden centers and stores. But before you buy the variety you like, remember the following nuances:

You should not overpay for bulbs of new and fantastically colored varieties. The price is several times higher than that of classical varieties, and as a result the imperial hazel grouse will grow orange or yellow in color.
It is important to remember that the royal crown flower, the photo of which you see, can form bulbs of different sizes.

But it’s not worth buying those that are less than 4 cm in diameter, since ripening in our conditions can last a long time, and you simply won’t see flowering in the next few years.
Only planting material whose diameter exceeds 6 cm blooms in the first year after planting; in all other cases, it will have to be grown for several years.
Many gardeners are confused by the hole in the center of the bulb. However, this is not a defect or a defect, but the place where last year’s peduncle grew.
A rather sharp and specific smell emanating from the bulb is normal, this is how the plant protects itself from rodents.

Planting bulbs in open ground

The planting depth depends on the size of the bulb: the larger it is, the deeper the hole is dug. Imperial hazel grouse can be planted in spring or autumn. The area is cleared of debris and dug up. If the soil is heavy and clayey, it is lightened with peat, compost, and sand.

Planting is done as follows:

Dig a hole 30 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters in diameter.
A layer of drainage consisting of sand and small stones is laid at the bottom of the hole.
Then they pour in some fertile soil, plant the bulb, and cover it with substrate.
The planting site is lightly compacted and watered generously.

The bed can be mulched to retain moisture in the soil. When planting in autumn, the shelter will prevent the seed material from freezing.

Note! The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted.

Landing

Hazel grouse are planted in the fall. Adult mother bulbs are used as planting material. They can be divided in half. Children that grow up near adult bulbs are also buried in the ground. They are first separated from the mother. True, they will grow for a long time (3-4 years) before they throw out the flowering stem.

Deadlines

Hazel grouse are buried in the ground in September, rarely in October. By the time of planting, small roots should appear on the bulbs. It is not advisable to bury the bulbs later than November. The optimal time for planting is dry and warm September.

Soil preparation

Before planting, it is advisable to dig up the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it with rotted compost (half a bucket per square meter of land), dilute it with peat and sand. The soil should not be heavy, clayey, cold or too wet. For planting, dig a shallow hole. A little sand is poured onto the bottom - this way you can protect the bulb from rotting.

Disinfection of seed material

Before planting, the bulbs need to be disinfected. Planting material is disinfected in a solution of fungicide (Maxim) or potassium permanganate. The bulbs are irrigated with diluted, weakly concentrated preparations.

Selecting a location

Hazel grouse are planted in a well-lit area, sheltered from the winds. It is advisable not to choose lowlands where water will accumulate after rain. Hazel grouse cannot tolerate marshy soil. From excess moisture they will begin to rot and may not bloom. It is best to plant flowers on a mound. Because of the unpleasant garlic smell, many gardeners try to plant hazel grouse in the background, in a distant bed or in the vegetable garden.

Planting scheme

Grouse grouse, depending on the age and size of the bulbs, are buried in the ground to a depth of 10-30 centimeters. Adult mother bulbs are planted deep (30 centimeters), children - close to the surface (10 centimeters). The distance to the neighboring plant should be 25-35 centimeters. It is advisable not to lay the bulbs flat, but to plant them at an angle of 90 degrees.

How to replant

The hazel grouse is dug up after it has finished flowering. The adult mother bulb and the emerging children are separated and dried all summer in a dry, shaded place at a temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius. In September they are transplanted to a new site. Prepare the soil for the bulb (loosen and fertilize it). Dig a shallow hole, sprinkle it with sand and insert the onion there. It is covered with earth and watered with water.

Caring for hazel grouse during the growing season

As soon as the spring sun warms up, rake away the mulch, otherwise the root system may dry out from excess heat and moisture.

The soil in the area where imperial hazel grouse grows is loosened so that air can flow to the roots. The plants are watered and fed several times a season.

It is imperative to remove weeds, which can be carriers of diseases and pests. Plants usually do not require staking, since the peduncles are strong, held straight and without support.

Features of the view

Despite the fact that hazel grouse are flowers that grow in almost any conditions, the planting location is very important for the imperial hazel grouse. Since this is a large specimen, it must have enough space to grow, so when planting the bulbs, keep a distance of at least 30cm between them. Otherwise, due to lack of space for growth, the hazel grouse become smaller and even stop blooming.

How to sow clarkia for seedlings and care for seedlings

It is very important to protect plants from drafts. And it is advisable to plant them in partial shade.

And yet, the imperial hazel grouse is very picky about the soil. Poorly drained soils are by no means suitable for it. They need to be lightened by digging up an area of river sand. And in order for the bulb to receive the required amount of nutrients, the soil must be fertilized several times: in the fall, in the spring before flowering and after it. In the fall, it is advisable to dig up the area and add humus 7-10 days before planting the hazel grouse. And in the spring it is better to apply factory-made complex fertilizers before loosening the soil.

The imperial hazel grouse does not like excess moisture and heavy waterproof soils, because both can lead to rotting of the bulbs.

Caring for hazel grouse after flowering

When frittilaria fades, do not rush to cut off the flower stem completely. You only need to cut off the top to prevent seeds from forming. Through the ground part, the bulb is fed and prepared for wintering. They continue to care for the flower, watering it, loosening the soil, and removing weeds.

Digging up the bulbs after the above-ground parts have withered

After flowering, the imperial hazel grouse is fed and, when the foliage is almost dry, the seed material is dug up. Some gardeners leave the bulbs in the ground, neglecting to dig them up. This may cause the plant to stop blooming.

If you perform agricultural techniques correctly, growing hazel grouse will not be difficult.

Why do hazel grouse not bloom?

If you are faced with this issue, then take a look at the list of possible reasons and try to eliminate them, then the royal crown will bestow its luxurious buds on you. So, possible reasons:

Buying small bulbs. To throw out a powerful peduncle, an exotic plant needs a lot of strength and a good supply of nutrients. If you planted material less than 6-7 cm in diameter, be prepared for a lack of flowers.
No transfer. Of course, this growing option is possible, but the bulbs remaining in the soil will certainly begin to divide, losing nutrients.
High humidity and coolness in summer. Before planting, be sure to warm up the excavated material under natural conditions, for example, in a greenhouse.
Incorrect embedment depth. At shallow depths, fritilaria feels all the vagaries of the weather - it rots from prolonged rains and freezes in winter. Too great a depth causes it to spend a lot of effort growing through the substrate layer.
Incorrect substrate structure. Too loose soils are subject to deep freezing, and on heavy soils moisture stagnates for a long time.
Lack of winter shelter. Having suffered from severe frosts, the onion will throw all its strength into restoration, depriving you of your treasured flowers.

Advice! After wilting, remove the boxes so that all your energy goes into accumulating nutrients for wintering and full development of the heads.

Watering and fertilizing

The phytillaria should be watered abundantly, but rarely. From excess moisture, the bulb can become infected with a fungal disease. If it rains frequently in spring and summer, watering is not done at all.

Feed in the spring with nitrogen, for example, a composition prepared as follows: 5 grams of ammonium nitrate are dissolved in 3 liters of water. The resulting suspension is poured onto the imperial hazel grouse bush.

At the beginning of budding, and then after flowering, the phytillaria is fed with a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Before applying fertilizer, water the soil with plain water.

Reviews and advice from gardeners

Summer residents call hazel grouse a royal plant. Group plantings can bewitch with their colorful appearance. Imperial hazel grouse goes well with daffodils and tulips. The flower is quite resistant to major species diseases. It is only important to remove the bulbs in time and prevent them from freezing. Proper agricultural technology will protect the hazel grouse from all threats.

Gardeners are also advised to strictly monitor the storage of bulbs collected for planting - the first week at 30°C, and then at room temperature. Whether your hazel grouse will bloom at all depends on this, as well as on maintaining the rooting depth. Proper planting and simple care are the key to getting a beautiful flower bed with an imperial flower on your site.

Bulb storage

The seed material is carefully inspected, and rotten, cut bulbs are immediately separated. The affected fragments are cut out to healthy parts, the seed material is dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Then the bulbs are dried in a well-ventilated place without direct sunlight. They need to be examined periodically - if they begin to become affected by the disease, repeat the above procedure.

Important! To cut out diseased parts, use only a sharp, disinfected knife.

Application in landscape design

The imperial hazel grouse looks great in a flower bed. The plant is planted as a single flower or used in a group composition. Grouse can be planted among tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. The unpleasant garlic smell of the bulbs will protect other elite varieties of flowers growing nearby from attacks by insects and rodents.

Hazel grouse quickly begin to grow. Their lush greenery will enliven a gloomy flower bed after winter hibernation. Tall hazel grouse with lush inflorescences at the top of the stems look like trees of paradise or exotic palm trees. They can be combined with low flowers. For example, sow in the far row.

A tall stem of hazel grouse with a lush crown of bright flowers is planted against a background of ground cover plants. Usually hazel grouse are used to decorate alpine slides. Although this plant can be planted near late-flowering peonies, phlox, and lilies. If the hazel grouse flowers fade, their leaves will revive the flower bed. Peonies or lilies will bloom later. This way the flowerbed will always look green and blooming. In summer, other flowers (gatsania, alyssum) can be planted in place of hazel grouse.

Basic propagation techniques

Imperial hazel grouse can be propagated on a plot in 2 ways: by seeds and vegetatively.

Seeds

If a gardener wants to propagate imperial hazel grouse with his own seeds, he should not cut off the flower stalks: they gradually ripen while in the seed pod. Ripe seeds are immediately sown in the ground.

Imperial hazel grouse seeds

The procedure is carried out as follows:

make grooves 1 centimeter deep in the prepared bed;
water the soil;
sowing seeds;
cover them with peat with a layer of 2 centimeters.

The seeds will germinate next year. At the age of two, the bulbs need to be dug up in the summer, dried, and then planted again on the site.

Vegetative method

Every year the bulb increases in size and produces more children after flowering. If they are separated from the mother plant and grown, then in a few years the gardener will be able to admire a plantation of blooming hazel grouse.

It is better to disconnect children at the age of two, allowing them to gain strength and get stronger.

Another option for vegetative propagation: dividing the adult bulb into parts. To do this, use a sharp knife to divide it into 2 or 4 parts. The cuttings are sprinkled with ash for disinfection, then planted in a box with fertile soil. The following year, the grown bulbs are transplanted to the site.

Forum, reviews

Fritillaria is only gaining momentum in cultivation in Russia, so reviews from experienced gardeners will help beginners properly organize the care of exotic plants:

Tatyana was convinced from her own experience that it is better to take care of the soil structure in advance. She planted the bulbs in heavy soil at the recommended depth. The tree of paradise spent a lot of effort to break through the thickness of the earth and did not bloom this season.
Natalya bought planting material at the autumn fair, missing the recommended planting date. She managed to save the seedlings in the basement and plant them in pots in the spring. Natalya did not dare to disturb the exotic and took it outside in a planting container. She really liked this method of cultivation, because it is possible to move the pot to any part of the garden.
Christina noted the benefits of exotic. Its heads have a very unpleasant garlic aroma. The smell discouraged moles and mole crickets from raiding the area.

Pests of hazel grouse

The main pest of the imperial hazel grouse is the lily beetle. It is also called the rattlebird because of the loud sound it makes when flying. In addition to fritillaria, the beetle affects lilies. This insect is red in color and eats plant leaves. If there are only a few beetles, they are collected by hand.

To get rid of large colonies, you will need to use chemicals. The most effective drugs are: Decis, Intra-Vira, Actofit. You can use chemicals before or after flowering.

Additional information: when a person approaches, the lily beetle falls to the ground and turns over with its black abdomen, becoming invisible to the eye.

Care and cultivation

Grouse need to be cared for regularly. In this case, they will bloom magnificently and will not die from pest attacks or diseases. The main thing for a gardener is to protect the bulbs from freezing in winter and not give them the opportunity to rot in the spring. To do this, before wintering, the surface where the bulbs are planted is insulated. In spring, the mulch is removed and the hazel grouse is allowed to develop quietly.

Watering

Hazel grouse do not like too moist soil. After all, their delicate bulbs begin to quickly rot in swampy soil. Flowers are watered occasionally - only during dry seasons. This plant tolerates drought and infrequent watering well. In hot weather and in case of prolonged absence of rain, flowers are watered once a week. 3 liters of water are poured under one plant.

Mulching and shelter for the winter

It is advisable to mulch the ground around the plant with sawdust in the spring. Weeds will not be able to break through from under the mulch. True, you need to leave enough open space above the bulb. Otherwise, the hazel grouse stem will not be able to germinate. Before wintering, bulbs buried in the ground are covered with dry leaves or a layer of peat and sand. It is better to use spruce branches, reeds, and straw as shelter.

The thickness of the insulating layer should be 25-30 centimeters. In winter, snow must be constantly thrown onto the place where the bulbs are buried. They will not freeze out under the snow cover and will be perfectly preserved until spring.

Careful care in spring

After the snow melts, the mulch must be removed from the garden bed. It is necessary to give the hazel grouse a chance to germinate. It is important to provide the plant with maximum sunlight. Young seedlings tolerate spring frosts well, that is, a drop in temperature to 6 degrees below zero. On cold nights, the stems freeze and droop to the ground, but in the sun they quickly come to life.

It is not advisable to touch the soil near the planted bulb. During the winter, the roots grow and rise to the surface. Loosening of the soil is not carried out so as not to damage the thin roots. The plant can be fed with humus diluted in water (0.5 liters of organic matter per 5 liters of water).

Top dressing

The very first fertilizing is done in the fall, before planting the bulbs in the ground. The soil is fertilized with rotted humus (half a bucket of organic matter per square meter of land). In the spring, just before flowering, the soil is fed with nitrogen substances (ammonium nitrate). For one plant you need: dilute 5-10 grams of fertilizer in 3 liters of water. During the flowering period, hazel grouse are fed with superphosphate and potassium nitrate. You can use complex purchased fertilizers for flowering crops.

Diseases and pests

In rainy and cool summers, hazel grouse growing in nutrient-poor soil may get sick. Most often, rot appears on the bulbs. The plant develops poorly, the leaves turn yellow and wither. In this case, the bulb needs to be dug up, rot removed, and treated with a fungicide (Fundazol). Dry it and bury it in a new place in the fall.

Bulbs can get fusarium. This fungus lives in the soil. With frequent rains, it becomes more active, affecting not only the bulbs, but also the stems, then the leaves turn yellow and wither. As a preventative measure, the plant is sprayed with a fungicide (Fitosporin, Topaz) or Bordeaux mixture.

Diseases of the imperial hazel grouse

If the above-ground part of the fritillaria dries out prematurely, this may mean that the plant is affected by rust. If you look closely, you can find fungal spores on the leaf blades. To get rid of pathogenic microorganisms, bushes are treated with fungicides, for example, Fitosporin-M, Topaz, Bordeaux mixture. The affected aerial part is removed and destroyed.

Imperial hazel grouse in the landscape

Another disease that can affect hazel grouse is sclerotinia. At the same time, the lower leaves lose color and become watery. In advanced cases, even the bulbs can become diseased. Pathogenic microorganisms can persist in the soil for about 5 years, so diseased plants are removed and the soil is treated with fungicides for several years.

Note! The use of chemicals is prohibited during plant flowering.

Imperial hazel grouse is a beautiful bulbous plant that blooms in early spring. It can be planted under the canopy of trees, in a flower bed next to other bulbous plantings. After flowering and the above-ground part has dried, the bulb is dug up, dried, and replanted in the ground in early autumn. With proper care, hazel grouse serve as a decoration for the garden plot for a long time.

Video

Growing hazel grouse in the garden

Next, we will describe how to grow the imperial hazel grouse, or the royal hazel grouse, or the royal crown, which is very popular among gardeners in the garden. In mid-latitudes, such a plant began to be cultivated since the 16th century, but to this day a large number of gardeners are puzzling over the secret of its cultivation. The fact is that despite the efforts and efforts made to grow such a hazel grouse, it very often does not produce flowers at all.

Flowering of the royal hazel grouse begins immediately after the snow cover melts. Its rich orange or yellow-lemon flowers, located on tall peduncles, look incredibly impressive. They can be combined with any spring flowers. One adult bulb often grows 2 peduncles, with new bulbs appearing at their base. As for babies, this species produces very few of them, and therefore the prices for them in specialized stores are relatively high.

For such a plant, it is recommended to choose a sunny area, but it can also be grown in a shaded place. Suitable soil should be moderately moist, light and rich in nutrients. This plant also needs good drainage.

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Royal crown flower, or imperial hazel grouse

royal crown flower is also known by another name - Imperial hazel grouse. Orange-brown bells are crowned with a crown of lush green leaves. The plant blooms together with tulips and daffodils, being the pride of the owners in their country flower beds. The royal crown belongs to the lily family. She is well known in the northern hemisphere. It is also found in Asia, North America, and the Mediterranean area. In Europe, there is a legend about the origin of the royal crown . As if this flower was blooming in the Garden of Gethsemane at the time when Jesus Christ was arrested because of the betrayal of Judas. Its bells were snow-white and did not hang down, but grew upward. When Christ went to pray, leaving his disciples, all the surrounding flowers bowed their heads to the very ground. And only the royal crown continued to stay straight. When Christ was taken away under arrest, he looked at the flower. There was so much sadness in his gaze that the royal crown could not stand it and bowed its flowers. Its petals turned red with shame, its bells bowed forever and never straightened up again.

Name:

Under its first name, the imperial crown (Corona imperialis), this species was mentioned in botanical literature in 1570. The name by which it is known to us, Fritillaria imperialis, was given by the great Carl Linnaeus, classifying it among the large genus of hazel grouse. As always, folk names are figurative. In Europe, the imperial hazel grouse is known as “Mary’s Tears” because of the large drops of nectar protruding from the base of the bell-shaped flowers, and of course, the “Caesar’s crown”.

Photo by Svetlana Popova

Description:

This large bulbous plant lives in the Eastern Himalayas, the mountains of Iran and Afghanistan in wet subalpine meadows and rocky screes. Plant up to 150 cm tall. The lower half or 2/3 of the shoots of imperial hazel grouse are covered with whorls of broadly lanceolate leaves. Their width is 10 cm with a length of up to 21 cm. The lower leaves are larger than the upper ones. The size of the leaves depends on the varieties and varieties. The upper part of the peduncle does not end with the inflorescence. It has a continuation of narrow green leaves, which is sometimes called a bunch or a crown. In plants that do not have flowers, the leaves cover the shoot evenly, without breaking in the place where the inflorescence is usually located. The flower stalk of the imperial hazel grouse is worthy of special description. By the time of flowering, it becomes unbendingly rigid and remains so until the end. If for any reason the plant bends, the stem remains straight. It is held in a bulb that has a hole in the center. This hole remains from last year's flower stalk. To make it clearer, you need to imagine how the bulb and peduncle are formed. This will give the key to agricultural technology and eliminate mistakes. So, the peduncle stem begins to grow in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. It grows rapidly and after two weeks, at the beginning of flowering, reaches its maximum height. At this time, the first daffodils, hyacinths and early tulips are just blooming. The peduncle is attached to the bottom of the mother bulb, and a young bulb is formed around its base. When the growing season ends, the peduncle will dry out and fall off. It will leave a vertical through hole of the appropriate diameter in the ripe onion. In autumn, in the depths of this hole, where it pierces the bottom, one, two or three buds are visible. Next spring, a corresponding number of peduncles will grow from them, and the next generation of bulbs will form at the base of each of them. This is why all the imperial fritillary bulbs have holes.

A bulb consisting of 2-3 scales is not only a supply of nutrients, partially spent on the formation of the above-ground part of the plant, and partially transferred into a new bulb. It is also an anchor that holds the powerful and heavy peduncle from falling. However, in order for the plant to maintain its vertical position, the planting depth should be 15-25 cm.

Now about the flowers of the imperial hazel grouse. As a rule, there are six of them and they are located like the shades of a chandelier. There are many more flowers if the bulbs were warmed up the previous summer. The buds are facing downwards, sometimes even deviating towards the peduncle. The flowers also look down at first. The pistil tube does not bend upward, as is the case with lilies and many other plants. After a few days, the flowers begin to deviate from the peduncle to the sides. By the time the petals fall, the pedicels and ovaries are located horizontally, and after some time even vertically! At the beginning of summer, the seed pods grow almost to the size of flowers, ripen and crack. The seeds, however, do not spill out on their own, because the boxes stick up.

The color of the flowers of the imperial hazel grouse is brown-orange. Among the varieties it is quite diverse, although it does not go beyond the red-orange-yellow range. The petals of the red and orange flowers often have strokes of dark burgundy on the outside at the base and along the midrib. The main species in culture since 1574.

Fritillaria imperialis 'Sulpherino'
Photo by Svetlana Polonskaya
From history:

in Europe (Italy) the first mention of flowering in the culture of the river. The imperial one dates back to 1553. The tireless researcher, professor of botany from Leiden, Karl Clusius, brought its bulbs to Vienna in 1573 and planted them in the royal garden. The mild climate of central Europe contributed to good seed and vegetative propagation of the river. imperial. From here began the triumphal march of this magnificent plant through gardens around the world. Ultimately, hazel grouse, like many other bulbous crops, finds its second home in Holland. In 1746, 12 varieties were already known with red, orange, yellow and white flowers, double, variegated cultivars, as well as with double the number of flowers in one inflorescence. Since then, little has changed in the appearance of modern varieties.

Now the imperial hazel grouse cannot be classified as a rare plant. After centuries of cultivation, it is widespread in every European country, as if it was born here. It is grown everywhere, and is as common in gardens as grandmothers sitting at flower markets in the spring with armfuls of brick-orange and bright yellow hazel grouse. It is considered a simple, unpretentious plant. His whole history seems to confirm this opinion. More than 400 years have passed since R. imperial came to Europe, even some of its varieties were created so long ago that they have almost archaeological value, and during all this time they have not degenerated or died. Its vitality and constancy are amazing in comparison with many crops, where the speed of emergence of new varieties and their replacement of old ones is quite consistent with the crazy speed of modern life.

Fritillaria imperialis 'Rubra Maxima'
Photo by Tkachenko Kirill
Varieties:

in addition to the original garden form of the river.
imperial 'Rubra'
with orange flowers, 15 varieties are described in the international register.
There are much fewer varieties in commercial circulation: 'Aurora', 'Lutea', 'Premiere', 'Prolifera', 'Sulpherino', 'William Rex'.
Firms specializing in rare plants sometimes sell two more varieties with decorative foliage -
'Aureomarginata'
and
'Argenteovariegata
'. The rest are almost impossible to buy. There is also no guarantee that plants obtained from the most reputable sources correspond to the variety indicated on the label, and this is not easy to verify due to the vague descriptions in the register.

'Aurora' - Orange-fleshed flowers with a very beautiful purple vein pattern throughout the petals, nectaries edged in purple. One of the shortest forms of imperial hazel grouse, since its flowering stems do not exceed 60 cm. It blooms somewhat earlier than other variations of this species, so it may suffer from night spring frosts.

'Lutea' - Lovely clear yellow flowers with a subtle green pattern. The nectaries are surrounded by a white border turning into green and then purple. This variety has been cultivated since 1665. The height of the stems is 80-100 cm.

'Maxima Lutea' - An impressive garden form, reminiscent of the 'Lutea' variation, only larger. Cultivated since 1867. The height of the peduncles is 120 cm.

'Premier' - Tangerine-colored flowers with faint purple patterns on the petals. The nectaries are surrounded by a white border that fades to deep purple-black. The anthers are white. The petals measure up to 6 cm along and 3 cm across. Peduncles 80-100 cm high.

'Prolifera' - This superb variety is also known as 'Crown on Crown'. When well developed, it has a second whorl of flowers, hence the name “crown on crown.” They are orange with purple veins, and greenish-black borders around white nectaries.

'Rubra' - Deep fiery orange fading to red, with hints of crimson inside. There are faint veins on the petals, which reach a size of 6.5 cm by 4 cm.

'Rubra maxima' - The variety is characterized by very large orange flowers crowning stems 80-100 cm high. Cultivated since 1665.

'Slagzwaard' - Also known as "striped", and has been cultivated since 1771. The flowers are a shade of brown and the flower stems are connected to each other.

'Sulpherino' - The color of tangerine pulp with a thin crimson pattern and a yellow edge, the outer side has a purplish tint. Petals - 5 cm by 3 cm. The nectary is white, with a greenish-black border. A wonderful and intriguing color combination. This is a very old variation, which gained popularity again after exhibitions in the Limmen Botanical Garden. The height of the shoots is 80-100 cm.

'William Rex' - This rarely offered variety has flowers that are deep bronze-red with a smoky hue. This variety has significantly smaller bulbs than any other variety. An old variation named after William III.

'Aureomarginata' - stems 80-100 cm high with orange-red flowers and golden edged leaves. This wonderful plant has been cultivated since 1665. This very beautiful plant, which always attracts attention, is not winter hardy.

'Argentovariegata' - has a silvery edge on the leaves.

The easiest variety to identify is the yellow flowered 'Lutea'.

It differs from other
'Sulpherino' -
its flowers, which are yellow at first, later become orange.
The varieties 'Rubra Maxima'
and
'Lutea Maxima' are
huge plants, which, moreover, due to polyploidy, never set full-fledged seeds.
The first of them is very rare, and the existence of the second is generally a big question - under this name, as a rule, they supply the very similar 'Lutea'.

'Prolifera'
( synonym
'Croon op Croon')
has two inflorescences located one above the other, and the variety
'Fasciata'
has a double fasciated inflorescence and stem, although these characteristics may appear in the largest specimens of other varieties.
Of course, the variegated varieties - the white-edged 'Argenteovariegata'
and the yellow-edged
'Aureomarginata' -
cannot be confused with the others, but both of them are almost indistinguishable in the first half of their development, when they have yellow-edged foliage. Over time, the difference becomes very clear, and even the green part of their leaves is not the same shade. In addition, the flowers of the first variety are red-orange, while those of the second are brick-orange. As for the remaining cultivars, they cannot be identified without samples that have a 100% guarantee of grade. In addition, it is not known where to get them.

The age of creation of varieties has its negative side. Over the centuries-old history of their existence, the creators themselves, the Dutch, have sincerely become confused about this issue. The imperial hazel grouse does not reproduce very quickly by bulbs, but exceptionally well by seeds. Even though the seedlings grow slowly, seed propagation allows the plant to be replicated in tens and hundreds of thousands. The bulk of the planting material sold under the name F. imperialis 'Rubra'

in fact, they are seedlings whose flower color is quite variable. With such plant properties, it is very difficult to maintain varietal purity of the crop. Therefore, it is now impossible to collect a complete collection of true varieties of p. imperial. Almost nothing has been heard about modern breeding and new varieties of this species. The fact is that the variability of the color of its flowers is small and the available cultivars cover almost the entire possible range. It is very difficult to find a seedling with a hitherto unusual color.

In addition to varieties, collectors cultivate seedlings obtained from seeds collected in various parts of the natural range. Such plants can differ significantly in size and number of flowers from the “standard”.

'Aureomarginata'

Once planted by R. the imperial one will exist in the garden with minimal attention or even its complete absence. The question is whether you want to see what this plant can do if you care for it properly. Then the undersized savage, sometimes forming large clumps and producing rare flowers, and often not blooming at all, will turn into a real beauty, justifying its old name “royal crown”.

Location:

prefers a warm, semi-shaded location.

The soil:

when planting planting material, you can notice that the old drying stem is in the center of the bulb, in a fairly spacious funnel, and is attached to the bottom. Many are sure that this funnel is very harmful, as it contributes to the retention of soil moisture, which leads to rotting of the bulb. In the literature you can find recommendations to plant the bulbs obliquely or cover the funnel with half-rotted pine needles and the like. However, if you look closely, it becomes clear that the shriveled stem and bottom have a loose, porous structure and cannot retain moisture. It's another matter if the soils are heavy and poorly drained. like other bulbous plants from mountainous regions, river. imperial does not tolerate excessive soil moisture. Therefore, before you start planting bulbs, you need to carefully prepare the area. The main thing is to ensure good drainage and loose, nutritious soil. As a leavening agent, it is best to use coarse river sand and humus, which is also an excellent fertilizer (10-15 kg/sq.m). If there is no such amount of organic matter, you need to apply a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements.

Landing:

When new roots begin to appear on the bulb during storage or in the fall, immediately after purchasing imported material, planting begins. At the same time, you must try not to break off the fragile roots that have already grown. The distance between adult bulbs should be at least 25-30 cm. The planting depth of large bulbs is about 20-30 cm. Smaller bulbs are 13-20 cm. Children are 6-10 cm with obligatory covering for the winter.

Photo by Epictetus Vladimir

Care:

R. imperial is quite frost-resistant and adult bulbs rarely freeze out with proper agricultural technology, but in winters with little snow they need to be covered. This is also a must for bulbs grown in warmer climates. It is better to use non-caking materials - straw, reeds, reeds, spruce branches, rather than peat or humus. The insulating layer must be at least 25-30 cm. It is laid only after the soil has frozen by 5-10 cm, otherwise mice may settle here. which over the long winter will dig up all the plantings. In early spring, the shelter is removed.

Young shoots tolerate spring frosts down to minus 6° quite well. On cold mornings, the stems freeze, bend towards the ground and it seems that the worst has come. But the sun warms up - and the plants come to life and straighten out. Despite the significant height of the river. imperial, its stems are strong and do not need to be tied to a support, even in strong winds.

Loosening plantings is dangerous, since hazel grouse's roots often rise to the surface. It is enough to look at this giant to understand how much nutrients it needs for normal development. All types of fertilizers are suitable, with the exception of concentrated foliar fertilizers, which can lead to leaf burns. If there is no need to get seeds, be sure to break off the ovaries after the petals fall off. The plant spends too much energy on the formation of seed pods. This affects the growth of the bulbs, and therefore the decorativeness of the plant in the next season.

Diseases and pests:

hazel grouse are not susceptible to viral diseases.
The death of bulbs most often occurs in winter or during storage if the application of fertilizers was excessive. At the same time, plant immunity decreases, and the bulbs are affected by various bacterial and fungal infections. The development of the disease can be stopped by cutting out the damaged tissue and disinfecting the wound surface with a fungicide or sprinkling with ash and then drying it. Double fasciated inflorescence and stem are not a sign of the disease. This is a distinctive feature of the 'Fasciata' variety,
or the result of a development disorder in other varieties due to excessively high (more than 30-35 degrees) storage temperature of the bulbs.

Harvesting bulbs:

after flowering, the aboveground part gradually begins to turn yellow and dry out. At this time, they begin to harvest the bulbs. Many publications on floriculture recommend not digging up hazel grouse for 2-3 years. But those who follow such advice may lose a significant part of their collection in one season. It must be said that during the dormant period, most “foreign” bulbous crops are easily affected by all sorts of diseases and pests, which often litter the soil. Delay in harvesting even for 1-2 weeks can destroy the plants, and the largest bulbs of rare varieties rot first. There is no need to wait until the stems dry out completely. The best time is when the roots begin to die, which can certainly be determined experimentally by digging up the plant. Small bulbs grown from baby bulbs or seeds are more resilient and can tolerate delays in harvesting, but it is better to dig them up every year. Planting material is carefully inspected. Dry films are carefully removed so as not to overlook spots of rot, the soil is washed off with a dark solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) and the bulbs are dried. If rot is detected on fleshy scales, use a clean, blunt knife to carefully scrape it out to healthy tissue, and the wounds and instruments are disinfected. To do this, it is better to use an alcohol tincture of iodine, brilliant green, or finely ground crystals of potassium permanganate, which are thoroughly rubbed over the entire wound surface. After treatment for several days, the wounds are dried at high temperature. Chemical remedies, even systemic drugs, do not need to be used. It happens that rot appears already during storage on seemingly healthy bulbs, so weekly inspection of planting material is necessary. You also need to carefully inspect hazel grouse when purchasing.

Storage:

The bulbs of all types of hazel grouse do not have integumentary scales and therefore do not tolerate long-term storage and shipment very well, with the exception of the river. imperial. Before planting, it should be stored in a dry, warm and ventilated room with a daytime temperature of up to 30-35 C. The storage period is relatively short: if harvesting is carried out in June, then at the end of August new roots appear on the bulbs, and a sprout appears next to the old stem . Very large bulbs often form two sprouts at once. This means that next year there will be two flowering stems and two bulbs instead of one. By the time of planting, the bulbs usually grow long roots. You don't have to stand on ceremony with them. After damage, the remaining part of the root becomes thick and, most importantly, the root begins to branch. Short thick branching roots are very convenient. However, the roots should be protected during late planting. They should be carefully laid out to the sides.

Reproduction:

Large bulbs are divided into two almost every year, but babies are produced very rarely and in small quantities.
Polyploid varieties 'Lutea Maxima'
and
'Rubra Maxima'
reproduce less well.
From one large bulb you can get several children, which need to be grown for several years before flowering. The variety 'Argenteovariegata' also reproduces poorly .
R. imperialis, like hyacinths, can form babies on the wound surface, anywhere on the bulb. Timing of work is very important here. It is better to do this 2 weeks after digging and drying the bulbs. To achieve success, I advise you to try this technique first on less valuable specimens. For this operation, you should choose completely healthy and large bulbs. On each, no more than two cone-shaped holes with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 cm are made in the thickest part of the outer scales. They work only with clean, disinfected instruments, and simply dry all wounds. For further storage, prepared bulbs are placed in dry sand and kept in a warm, ventilated area. Once the roots appear, the prepared bulbs are planted in the garden. It is advisable to pretreat them with a fungicide, for example, foundationol (according to the instructions). In order not to deplete the mother bulb, the developing buds are removed. It is necessary to dig up hazel grouse very carefully, since the small baby is difficult to see in the ground,

Seed propagation is not popular among gardeners, because seedlings will have to wait at least 7-10 years for the first flowering. However, only in this way can a significant amount of planting material be obtained. In this case, the plants will be more adapted to local conditions and resistant to diseases. Even with artificial pollination, not all varieties of p. Imperial seeds are set. Sometimes it depends on weather conditions during the flowering period. No more than two seed pods are left on one plant. Seeds vegetate longer than simply faded specimens, but you should not delay harvesting them. Still green stems with bolls are cut low and placed one at a time in jars with a small amount of water, which is changed daily. After 1-3 weeks, the stems are removed from the water and the seeds are ripened in a dry, ventilated area. One box contains 50-70 full seeds. They are sown in boxes about 15 cm deep in loose soil that does not contain fresh manure and mineral fertilizers. For sowing, full-fledged seeds with a transparent endosperm and a clearly visible long embryo are selected. A state of deep peace. in which it is located can only be interrupted by cold aging of the swollen seeds for 3-5 months. If the box with the seeds will overwinter in the basement (plus 1-2°C), then you can sow with pre-soaked seeds until December. Sowing in the ground must be completed 30-40 days before the soil freezes. The seeding depth is about 1.5-2.5 cm. The development of the embryo is favorably affected by freezing the sown seeds at minus 2-6°C at the end of winter for 2-3 weeks. Lower temperatures lead to the death of the embryo.

In early spring, the boxes are moved from the basement to a sunny place in the garden. In the future, make sure that the soil in them does not dry out or become waterlogged. In the summer, after the above-ground part of the seedlings dies, the bulbs are selected and stored in dry sand at 20° until planting. In autumn they are planted at the same time as adult bulbs. The planting depth in the first years should be approximately 6-10 cm. It is necessary to cover young plants for the winter.

M. Chernousova “Imperial Crown” // “Floriculture” - 2000 - No. 3. L. Bondarenko “Imperial Crown” // “Floriculture” - 2002 - No. 3. V. Khondyrev “Hazel grouse, or imperial fritillary” - 2002 - No. 6. Photos by L. Bondarenko from the magazine “Floriculture” - 2002 - No. 3.