What does hoya look like and bloom in its natural environment?
In summer, hoya blooms with fragrant, porcelain-white, pinkish, yellow-greenish and other shades of bisexual flowers, collected in umbrella inflorescences. Both the botanical description of the flowers of the Hoya plant and numerous photographs confirm that they have a star-shaped appearance, consist of petals and a central five-membered crown rising above them. The average diameter of flowers is from 1 to 2 cm, except for the majestic appearance (8 cm).
While the hoya plant is blooming, a pleasant perfume aroma prevails around the bush or vine. Representatives of certain species are even able to secrete nectar, which is attractive to many insects.
In its natural environment, the plant can reach 10 meters in length. Young shoots are immediately colored brown-violet, and as they mature, they acquire a rich green tint, and then gradually become lignified. The foliage is fleshy, oval, with a pointed apex. The average length of the leaves is from 5 to 15 cm, width - from 3 to 8 cm. Both the color and the leaves are dense, have a matte appearance, which gives the visual impression that they are cast from wax.
Familiarize yourself with some types and varieties of hoya from photos with official names to get a general impression of the plant before getting acquainted in detail:
Hoya: appearance and other characteristic features
Hoya, also known by the nickname “wax ivy,” is a genus of evergreen vines belonging to the Apocynaceae family. Most of its almost three hundred representatives can be found in Southeast Asia, India, China, and on the islands separating the Indian and Pacific oceans. Some hoyas appear as compact bushes, but this configuration is relatively rare.
The first hoya was discovered in 1770 by scientists Solender and Banks, traveling as part of James Cook's expedition. The name of the plant was given by Scottish physicist Robert Brown, creator of the theory of Brownian motion. In this way he perpetuated the memory of his friend, Thomas Hoy, who for many years successfully grew tropical plants in the greenhouses and winter gardens of the Duke of Northumberland.
In nature, Hoya is an epiphytic plant. It lives in forests and undergrowth, using tall trees as support for its lashes. She doesn’t need anything else from her “master”; she is not a parasite. If a suitable tree is not found, the vine climbs along the ground. On average, it reaches 10 m in length.
Hoya in nature is an epiphyte that uses tree trunks as support.
Hoya flowers look very unusual, collected in dense corymbose or spherical inflorescences. They have the shape of regular five-pointed stars with a diameter of 1–2 cm, inside of which there is a “crown” - a smaller star of a contrasting shade. The surface of the petals is fleecy, they seem to be cut out of velvet. The color range is very wide - from cream to dark purple, which from a distance appears black, including various tones of yellow, pink, red, peach and silver-green.
A hoya flower in the shape of a regular five-pointed star may seem artificial
More than twenty inflorescences can form on an adult vine at the same time. They emit a rich, pleasant aroma, especially intensifying at night. The “sweet” smell evokes associations with marshmallows and caramel. Not everyone likes it, sometimes even causing persistent migraines. Small droplets of a thick translucent substance on the petals are nectar, and not some kind of exotic disease. Each flower lasts 15–20 days.
Inflorescences in the shape of an almost regular ball immediately attract attention
Many gardeners are afraid to have hoya at home, knowing about the signs and superstitions associated with ivy. Allegedly, the plant “survives” from the house of men dear to the owner. Even if you believe this, hoya has absolutely nothing to do with ivy, which is part of the Araliaceae family.
The teachings of Feng Shui, on the contrary, highly value hoya, considering it a plant that creates a cozy and comfortable environment in the house, settles quarrels and helps spouses forgive each other's grievances. It is recommended to place it in the bedroom. Recently, “green hearts” - hoyas wrapped around a support of the appropriate shape - have become popular as a gift for Valentine's Day.
Hoya will fit organically into any interior, here you are limited only by your own imagination
The flowering period stretches from May to October, but the rest of the time, hoya also looks pretty. Its young shoots have a chocolate-purple hue; as they mature, they become brownish-gray and become woody. The leaves are fleshy, hard to the touch, elliptical in shape with a pointed tip, located opposite. Young ones have a characteristic glossy sheen, while adults are matte. The leaf length is 6–8 cm, width is 3–5 cm. It is for their texture that the plant received the nickname “wax ivy.”
Hoya leaves are also very decorative, but still this is not the main advantage of the plant
Video: description of Hoya
Is it possible to keep hoya at home and the qualities of wax ivy
Many cultivars are grown indoors. This plant has decorative qualities and is often used for landscaping offices and offices. There are a large number of legends and superstitions regarding the issue of growing Hoya at home, many of which, oddly enough, contradict each other.
For example, according to one belief, this flower “expels” men from their homes (husband, sons). According to other legends, culture is able to pacify resentment and envy. Still other sources, when asked whether it is possible to keep hoya or wax ivy at home, say that this plant is a source of happiness in the family, so the ideal place for growing it is the marital bedroom.
Which version to take into account is an individual decision of the gardener. But whatever the choice, it will not cancel the fact that exotic flowers can captivate everyone with their beautiful color, even the most demanding florist.
Popular types and varieties of indoor hoya plants: photos, names and descriptions
Today, approximately 200 species of hoya plant are known. For growing indoors, the most popular among them are:
Noua bella (hoya beautiful).
Noua carnosa (hoya fleshy).
The following types of this plant are cultivated much less frequently at home:
Hoya imperialis (majestic hoya).
Hoya longifolia (long-leaved hoya).
Hoya lacunosa (hoya concave)
Hoya pubicalyx (fuzzy cup hoya).
Hoya kerrii (Hoya Kerry).
Hoya multiflora (multiflorous hoya).
The type of hoya called beautiful is a low-growing, branched evergreen shrub, covered with small foliage (reaches a length of about 3 cm) and having drooping shoots (their length varies from 30 to 50 cm). The leaves have a fleshy structure, lanceolate-ovate shape, and a convex surface. The foliage on the shoots grows very densely. The flowers resemble small stars in appearance, the color of the petals is white and the core is crimson. The color is collected in umbrellas, each of which has from 7 to 9 “stars”.
Compare the description of the beautiful Hoya species with the photos below:
This is an epiphytic plant; in nature, its usual habitat is tree branches in tropical forests. In indoor conditions, it is grown as a hanging crop.
Within the species Noua bella, many bush-type varieties have been bred. The main difference between them is the color of the leaves.
Bush varieties of hoya and vines
Hoya bella var. Louis Buis is a beautiful hoya bush variety with leaves that have golden spots in the center and a reddening midrib in good light conditions.
Hoya bella Variegata is a plant with foliage with a thin edging of white or yellowish tint.
Hoya bella Wee is a variety of beautiful hoya with especially small leaves, which are placed in a whorl not in twos, as usual, but in threes.
Hoya fleshy has become widespread due to its unpretentiousness to growing conditions and ease of care. Unlike the previous species, this is not a bush plant, but an evergreen climbing vine.
Its length can be 6 m, so when growing a crop you should take care of support. The foliage of the plant is oval, thick, hard, dark green, has a shiny surface, reaches about 8 cm in length. The inflorescences are umbrellas, which contain 20 flowers with a strong, pleasant aroma. The main color of the petals is white, with a pink crown located in the central part.
Evaluate in the photo what varieties and varieties the fleshy Hoya has:
The images show those that are most popular in home gardening.
Hoya carnosa Variegata (hoya variegata) , in particular its variety called "Crimson Queen", which is famous for its unusually delicate cream-colored edging along the edges of its rich green leaves.
Hoya carnosa Tricolor (Hoya tricolor) and its variety with the original name “Exotic”, which is loved by many professional and amateur gardeners thanks to its scarlet flowers and green-pink-cream foliage.
The majestic hoya flower is also a climbing vine. It is densely dotted with lanceolate-oval foliage, the length of which reaches 15 cm and the width - up to 8 cm. The color of this plant is considered the largest among the known species: the diameter of the flowers is 8 cm. The peduncles are long, flower umbrellas are formed on them, in each of which contain from 8 to 10 smooth star-shaped flowers with deep red petals and a white central crown.
On the reverse side, the petals are decorated with an admixture of green or yellow. Hoya imperialis is widely known for its pleasant perfume scent.
Descriptions of popular varieties of this type of hoya with photos and official names are presented below - study and choose the green “pet” that is most suitable for your greenhouse:
Hoya imperialis var. rauschii features wavy-edged foliage and white-green flowers with pink and purple hues.
Hoya imperialis "Borneo Red" is popular because it grows very quickly and has purple flowers with a fruity, sweet scent.
Hoya imperialis var . Palawan is famous for its yellow-golden flowers with an original slightly reddish tint.
The photo below shows Hoya longifolia:
This is a climbing plant, the thin shoots of which contain a large amount of milky sap. The liana is densely dotted with lanceolate-shaped foliage, smooth edges, rich green color, and a fleshy structure without visible veins. The length of each leaf is approximately 13 cm and the width is about 2 cm.
The surface is without pubescence and is not shiny. Fragrant flowers in quantities from 5 to 12 pieces are collected in a spherical umbrella. The diameter of each flower varies from 1.5 to 1.7 cm, and there is pubescence on the surface. The color of the petals is white, the central crown is pale pink or pure white.
Find out what long-leaved hoya looks like in colorful photos.
Concave Hoya is an epiphytic plant, very branched, with flexible branches that look like very densely growing cascading lashes. The foliage is diamond-shaped, thickened, with edges turning inward, and rich green in color. The length of each leaf does not exceed 6 cm. The inflorescence is an umbrella, shaped like a fluffy ball. One umbel contains 15 to 20 fuzzy white or cream flowers with a white crown topped with a yellow center.
Read the description of popular varieties of concave hoya with photos below:
“Tova” is a hybrid with monochromatic foliage and a light green color.
"Eskimo" is a cultivar with leaves decorated with a marble pattern of a lighter shade.
Types popular among amateur gardeners
Until recently, out of all the variety, only fleshy and beautiful hoya was grown at home. Now many more species have been “cultivated” and very interesting breeding hybrids have appeared. Most often in apartments you can find the following plants:
- Hoya fleshy (carnosa). A liana 5–6 m long, requiring support for normal development. The leaves are medium-sized, up to 5 cm. Silver-gray strokes and spots on the dark green surface are normal. The flowers are pinkish-white and very fragrant. The plant is unpretentious and can easily tolerate drought, lack of natural light and cool wintering. It became the basis for many breeding hybrids - Crimson Queen (thin beige or pinkish border on dark green leaves), Tricolor Exotica (bright scarlet flowers, leaves covered with cream and pink stains).
- Hoya miniature (compacta). Small, seemingly slightly crumpled or curled leaves with a faint pattern of a lighter shade. Natural hybrid of Hoya fleshy. In turn, it became the “parent” of the varieties Regalis (white border on lime-colored leaves, changing to a reddish shade in the bright sun), Mauna Loa (dark green leaves with a yellowish spot in the center).
- Hoya beautiful (bella), also known as lanceolate. Intensively branching shrub with thin drooping shoots. Ideal for growing in an ampelous manner. The leaves are lanceolate, small (4–5 cm in length). The inflorescence contains 7–9 snow-white flowers with a bright purple crown. The plant is thermophilic (even in winter the temperature should not fall below 16–18ºС), and suffers greatly from overwatering. In optimal conditions it blooms all year round.
- Hoya multiflora (multiflora). A liana in need of support. Leaves with pronounced veins, about 10 cm long, 3–4 cm wide. Light green spots on them are normal. The flowers are pale yellow, emit a pleasant citrus aroma, the “rays” of the inner star are strongly curved outward. Each inflorescence has 30–40 buds. Hybrids - Speckles (leaves with light green spots and ivory-colored flowers), Falling Star (leaves about 15 cm long and petals of a very interesting shape, similar to the tail of a comet).
- Hoya regal, also majestic (imperialis). Liana with pubescent shoots, leaf petioles and petals. The leaf length is 15–20 cm, the diameter of the dark scarlet flower is 8–10 cm. The “natural” hybrid is Hoya Rausha with bright pink-red petals (this color is known to artists as scarlet). Selected varieties - Alba (greenish-white flowers), Palwan (yellowish-red), Borneo Red (bright purple).
- Hoya concave or pitted (lacunosa). Well suited for growing in the ampel method. The shoots are brick-colored, the leaves are 5–7 cm long, dark green, diamond-shaped. The edges are slightly curved inward. The inflorescence is umbellate. The petals are cream, the crown is yellowish.
- Hoya Kerry (kerrii). Liana with very long lashes. It is recommended to point them upward or wrap them around a support so that they do not tip the pot over. Leaf length varies from 5 cm to 15 cm. Flowers are collected in spherical inflorescences of 15–25 pieces. The shade of the petals depends on the quality of lighting. They can be pinkish, pastel yellow, lemon. An adult plant secretes more nectar, which colors them crimson, scarlet, and chocolate. Hoya Kerry variegata differs from its parent in having cream-colored leaves.
- Hoya pale (acuta). A liana with light green leaves 8–10 cm long and 4 cm wide. The petals are pale yellow, the crown is scarlet. The aroma is very pleasant, unobtrusive, lemon-mint. The flowers are small (1 cm in diameter), collected in umbrella-shaped inflorescences of 40–50 pieces.
- Hoya Shepherd (shepherdii). The leaves are large (12 cm long and 2–3 cm wide), thin, but hard and shiny. The central vein is highly developed, so they are concave, boat-like. Each inflorescence contains 12–15 flowers with a diameter of about 1.5 cm. The petals are snow-white with pinkish tips, the crown is ivory-colored.
- Hoya fraterna (fraterna). Quite capricious, rarely blooms at home. Leaves are up to 15 cm long, almost round. The petals are red-pink, the crown is bright yellow.
- Hoya longifolia. Subshrub-epiphyte. The shoots are thin, the leaves are large (up to 18 cm in length and 1 cm in width), similar to belts. The flowers are small, creamy in color, the crown is dark scarlet. The aroma is weak. The most frost-resistant of the genus.
- Hoya Englera (engleriana). It is distinguished by very small leaves (1.5 cm in length and 0.5 cm in width). The flowers are 2 cm in diameter, pubescent, collected in inflorescences of 4–5 pieces. The petals are white, the crown is lilac-red.
- Hoya southern (australis), sometimes not quite correctly called Australian. A liana whose shoots become woody with age. The average length is about 6 m. The leaves are small, 6–8 cm. The buds are collected in inflorescences of 20–25 pieces. The petals are glossy, snow-white with a crimson base, and gradually bend back.
- Hoya linearis. A long vine with thin shoots and pubescent leaves of a greenish-gray color. The petioles are very short. Petals are yellowish-cream, fleecy. Flowering occurs in early and mid-autumn. The buds release the aroma of vanilla. Unlike its “relatives”, it loves abundant watering.
- Hoya pubicalyx. The stems are long and curly. The leaves are covered with silvery spots and streaks. The flowers are 1.5–2 cm in diameter and last about two weeks. The color of the petals varies from pinkish-white to dark purple. There are many breeding hybrids - Red Button, Silver Pink, Chimera, Leenie, Philippines Black and others.
Natural hoyas: varieties in the photo
Hoya fluffy cup is the basis of many very effective breeding hybrids
Hoya lineara is very moisture-loving
Flowers on Hoya southern last for about two weeks, during which time the petals gradually bend back
Hoya Englera has very small leaves.
Hoya longifolia can withstand short-term exposure to low negative temperatures. Flowering Hoya fraternal at home is an almost exclusive sight.
The petals of Hoya Shepherd are densely pubescent
Hoya pale exudes a very pleasant unobtrusive aroma
The shade of the petals of Hoya Kerry varies greatly depending on the lighting. Hoya concave stands out against the background of its “relatives” with an interesting shape of leaves. The petals of Hoya Rausha are much paler than those of the “parent”
Hoya regal owes its name to its unusually large flowers with petals in the shade of royal purple.
Hoya multiflorum is distinguished by its unusual “star” shape.
Hoya beautiful is very well suited for growing in an ampelous manner.
Hoya miniature - a very interesting spontaneous mutation
Hoya fleshy - one of the first “domesticated” species
Selected hybrids often look more attractive than “natural” hoyas due to larger flowers and variegated leaves.
Photo gallery: achievements of breeders
Hoya Philippines Black - very unusual and spectacular flowers
Hoya Leenie - very delicate yellow petals Hoya Chimera - dark scarlet petals stand out against the background of bright green foliage
Hoya Silver Pink - crimson petals with a contrasting silver-white border
Hoya Red Button is one of many hybrids bred from Hoya fluffy cup
Hoya Kerry variegata differs from its “parent” by variegated yellow-green leaves
Hoya Borneo Red has rare purple petals.
Hoya Palwan - a combination of pink and peach - like a sunset on the tropical island after which the hybrid is named
Hoya Alba - petals of a very pure snow-white color Hoya flowersFalling Stars look like a comet approaching a star
Hoya Speckles - a very elegant and graceful hybrid
The color of the spots on the leaves of Hoya Mauna Loa evokes associations with the moon in Hawaii. Hoya Regalis - variegated leaves of a bizarre shape.
Hoya Tricolor Exotica - a very impressive combination of colors
Hoya Crimson Queen is a popular hybrid bred from Hoya fleshy
How to properly care for Hoya at home
Caring for a hoya flower at home is generally not difficult and will not take much time, since the plant is considered not capricious. For a green “pet,” a well-lit location is suitable. The plant is tolerant of direct sunlight. Although caution in this regard will not hurt: due to exposure to direct ultraviolet radiation, burns may occur on the hoya. To prevent such a disastrous outcome, it is recommended to provide diffused light for the flower at noon by shading the window in one of the following ways:
- Tracing paper.
- Tulle.
- Marley.
An eastern or western window sill is well suited for growing hoya flowers at home. You cannot place the plant on a window facing north: due to a lack of sunlight, flowering will not occur at all. If you purchased a bush or vine that was in a shaded place in the store, it is not recommended to immediately place it in a part of the room with intense lighting - you need to gradually increase the amount of light so that the plant can gradually, without stress, adapt to new conditions.
When it comes to the question of how to properly care for hoya at home, temperature conditions play an important role. Temperature: in summer the plant loves warmth (+18...+23 °C), in winter - a cooler atmosphere (+14...+18 °C).
Many species can overwinter even at + 10 °C, but hoya is more thermophilic: if it is not provided with a warm winter, it can completely shed its foliage.
Air humidity in general is not a significant factor in growing a plant. But, as in the case of temperature, the Hoya beautiful species requires special conditions - the flower loves a humid environment, grows better in it and blooms more profusely. In summer, during the period of shoot growth, bushes or vines should be regularly sprayed with a spray bottle.
Proper care for wax ivy hoya, organized at home, means that once every six months the plant needs to be bathed and completely immersed in water.
To do this, fill the bath with warm water (from +30 to +40°C) and place the green “pet” in it (even at the stage before the buds appear!) in a flowerpot for 40 minutes. After this time, the shoots must be lifted and “hung” to dry, and the flowerpot with rhizomes must be left for another 1.5 hours. You can do it a little differently: just lower the pot under water heated to the temperature indicated above for 2 hours, and give the foliage a warm shower. This procedure will help stimulate flowering.
Air humidity
At normal air humidity in the room, the vine grows well. If the humidity is low, you need to install a tray on which to place the container with the plant, and pour wet expanded clay into it. It’s a good idea to spray the air near the plant from time to time.
Watering and fertilizing when caring for hoya (with video)
An important aspect of caring for a home hoya flower is watering: moderate in summer, even less in winter. A feature of the culture is its ability to tolerate moisture deficiency well. In the warm season, you need to water the plant as the soil dries out, but it is still better not to let the earthen clod dry out. In order for the vine or bush to enjoy abundant flowering next season, a minimal amount of liquid will be required during winter dormancy. If the soil is waterlogged, the plant may begin to shed both leaves and shoots. Water for irrigation should be used that has settled and is soft.
Feeding: during the growth period - from March to September - once every 2 weeks. Hoya needs to be fertilized with mineral compounds during the growing process.
The ready-made mixture “For flowering succulents” can be purchased at a flower shop, or you can make it yourself at home, taking into account the recommended ratio of components:
- 2% magnesium.
- 10% nitrogen.
- 11% phosphorus.
- 18% potassium.
The solution must be poured into the pot along the edge. During winter dormancy, the plant does not need to be fertilized. Also, fertilizing is not needed at all if the crop is transplanted annually into a new, not yet depleted substrate.
To learn how to organize proper care for your hoya, watch the video below:
Proper watering
From spring to late autumn, the flower needs moderate watering. You must adhere to certain rules on how to water a flower. The procedure is carried out once a week. The water must be soft. When using tap water, it should be left to sit for 24 hours so that harmful chlorine can evaporate.
From November, the watering interval can be reduced to once every two weeks. The plant needs to be bathed twice a year. As a rule, this is done with the onset of spring before flowering and in late autumn, when the flowers have faded. For bathing, use a basin of water into which a pot with a plant is immersed.
The water temperature for swimming is 40 degrees. This is a very useful procedure for the flower, stem and root system of the plant. After this, it begins to grow well in the spring, and bathing in the autumn hardens the plant and helps it endure the cold period.
Hoya propagation by apical and stem cuttings
There are three ways to propagate hoya flowers at home:
- By apical or stem cuttings.
- Seeds.
- Sheets.
Propagating a hoya plant by cuttings is considered the least difficult and most reliable way to grow a new specimen. It is necessary to take into account two main characteristics of the cutting:
- Age.
- Size.
Both apical and stem cuttings chosen for propagation should not be too young - their tissues tend to rot when they try to root. Therefore, it is better to give preference to cuttings that are mature, but have not yet had time to lignify.
The size of the rooting material should not be long. It is better to take cuttings that have two nodes covering two pairs of leaves. If you plan to propagate plant species with large foliage, then you can make an exception and take cuttings, keeping one node at a time.
How to take hoya cuttings to properly root the plant
In the question of how to properly cut hoya, special attention should be paid to pruning the cuttings. The best place for roots to appear is considered to be the area located under the node itself. Therefore, you need to leave a couple of centimeters of the stem under it, and cut off the rest. After a new shoot appears from the axil of the first node, you can cut off the second node and also root it.
Rooting is possible in one of two ways:
- Immediately in the substrate (at soil temperature +20...+25 °C).
- In water (at a temperature of + 22 ° C).
The first option is considered to be more reliable. Before rooting hoya cuttings, you need to prepare the soil according to one of the “recipes”:
- Mix equal parts of sphagnum moss (or peat), vermiculite (or perlite), fine expanded clay (or polystyrene foam).
- Combine fine expanded clay (1/5 part), perlite or vermiculite (1/5 part), planting soil (3/5 part).
The prepared substrate must be breathable so that the cuttings do not rot. Perlite or vermiculite will help ensure this soil property. You should also take care of the proper soil moisture, but the higher the level of its breathability, the faster the water evaporates from it. This problem can be solved using a plastic bag (how exactly will be discussed later).
Before rooting, for 100% results, you can treat the cuttings with Kornevin, but this is not necessary.
Planting home hoya with cuttings and caring for the plant
Planting hoya using apical or stem cuttings is carried out as follows: the cutting is placed in a plastic bag filled with a slightly moistened substrate so that the lower node is covered with soil. The bag is then placed horizontally, and after 10 days it will be possible to observe the appearance of roots.
You can do it differently by planting the cuttings in a flowerpot. Drainage is placed at the bottom of the container, then a substrate is placed into which the cutting goes deep, as in the previous version. To maintain moisture, a transparent plastic bag is placed loosely over the pot.
After 14-21 days, you can get a germinated cutting, ready for planting in a permanent place of growth in soil prepared using one of the previously described technologies.
Rooting in water is done like this. The container with the liquid is wrapped in foil on all sides, and holes are made in the top of the wrapper for the cuttings. Planting materials treated at will with Kornevin are lowered into the vessel so that the lower node is under water. A plastic bag is also placed loosely on the container (to allow free air flow). Roots will appear after 14 days. You need to transplant the cutting into the ground immediately, since the roots will become very fragile and may break off.
Reproduction
Most often, hoya is propagated by cuttings - this is the simplest and most effective way. Propagation by seeds is extremely rare. Hoya does not set fruit in captivity. And you can’t even find them on sale; they have a very short shelf life.
After pollination, a pod appears on the hoya; after ripening, you will find fluffy seeds in it.
Cuttings
- In the spring, cut cuttings (10 cm) of hoya from the tops of last year's shoots. Each one should have at least 2 internodes, and preferably 3–4.
- Treat the cut of the cutting with a phytohormone (Epin, Zircon, others).
- Fill the container with a mixture of peat and sand and moisten it.
- Deepen the cuttings, carefully compact the substrate, leaving no voids.
- Cover the seedlings with film, a bag or a jar.
- Place in a bright and warm (18–24 0 C) place.
- Moisten and ventilate the plantings regularly.
- When new leaves begin to appear, transplant the cuttings into small (7–10 cm) pots with hoya soil.
You can root cuttings in an improvised greenhouse
Video: rooting hoya cuttings in different soils
Hoya propagation by seeds and leaves at home
Hoya propagation by seeds at home is carried out using well-dried seed material in the year of its collection. The substrate can be prepared according to one of the above “recipes”. Shoots appear after 7 days.
As soon as the first shoots appear, you need to monitor the soil moisture: do not overwater it, but also do not let it dry out. The container with seedlings should be placed in a warm and well-lit place.
To prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases, it is recommended to treat them with some preparation containing copper in accordance with the instructions on the package. After 90 days, the seedlings will already have several pairs of leaves - from this moment they can be transplanted into separate flowerpots.
Hoya propagation from leaves is considered the most difficult and lengthy process. It is recommended to take leaves of those plants that live in the natural environment. Therefore, breeders use this method. But amateur florists also have the opportunity to experiment with house plants. The leaf is planted in a loose substrate, maintaining an angle of 45 ̊. After 2-3 weeks, roots will appear. The problem with this propagation method is that a leaf that has taken root may not sprout for several years. To speed up this process, drop one drop of “Heteroauxin” onto the base of the leaf using a pipette.
Keeping in nature and at home
Hoya is an inhabitant of the tropics. And at home, she retained the habits acquired in nature. She still strives for the sun, prefers moist rather than dry air and fairly high temperatures. It is precisely about the winter temperature for hoya that gardeners often disagree. The traditional point of view is that hoya prefers a cool winter, + 12–16 0 C. But practitioners assure: hoya spends the winter well at moderate 18–20 degrees and even higher. Most likely, both are right. Some varieties, such as carnosa with succulent leaves, will benefit from cool temperatures. Only then should the humidity be low. And the tender Hoya Bella wants to live warm even in winter. So when creating a climate for your Hoya, take into account the natural conditions to which it is accustomed.
Table: conditions for hoya
Season | Lighting | Humidity | Temperature |
Spring | The bright, best place is on the western and eastern window sills, on the southern ones a little shading is required. The variegated forms need the most light. Monochromatic varieties grow well in partial shade, but then there may be problems with flowering. | High, 60–70 or more. Humidify the air in all available ways (double pot, tray with expanded clay or moss, indoor fountains, electric humidifiers). Spray leaves and stems more often. During flowering, stop spraying so that the buds and flowers do not fade. | Moderate, not less than +18 0 C. Protect from drafts. |
Summer | Bright, diffused. Protect from midday sun. | Moderate, elevated is acceptable, optimally +20–25 degrees. Can be placed on a warm balcony or veranda. You should not take it out into the fresh air. Stems can be damaged by wind. And you don’t need to touch the plant that has buds. Hoya does not like changing places at this time. | |
Autumn | |||
Winter | Bright, with a short daylight hours, it needs artificial lighting. If there is enough light it will bloom in winter. | If the temperature is low, it does not need moisturizing. The warmer the room, the higher the humidity should be. Spray the plant, humidify the air in other ways. | For varieties with succulent leaves, cool, 12–16 0 C. For more delicate ones (bella) – moderate +18–20. When the temperature drops, it may lose its leaves. |
Flower growers advise bathing hoya twice a year, before and after flowering. A large container is filled with warm (about 40 degrees) water. The plant is dipped together with the pot and kept in water for up to 40 minutes. As they say, after taking a bath, hoya blooms better, and the autumn procedure hardens the plant.
To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to arrange a bath for hoya
How to transplant a Hoya into a new pot
The “plus” of growing the crop is that it does not require frequent replanting. It is carried out, if necessary, once every 1-3 years in the spring. Recommended substrate: flower soil mixture “For flowering succulents” or prepared independently according to one of the “recipes” discussed above.
Usually, the plant itself signals that replanting is necessary: the root system protrudes from the drainage into the holes at the bottom of the flowerpot, the bush or vine does not grow, and the leaves become drooping.
Before replanting your home hoya, you need to choose the right new pot. If the goal is to get abundant flowering, then the container should not be much larger than the one in which the crop grew before. If it is necessary to stimulate the growth of a bush or vine, then the pot should be much more spacious than the previous one. You must not forget to place drainage at the bottom (pebbles, broken shards, stones measuring from 1 to 1.5 cm, foam chips).
Transplanting a healthy crop into a new container and fresh substrate is carried out using the transfer method - that is, an earthen ball entwined with roots is not destroyed, but is transferred to another container and supplemented with the required amount of soil. When planting, the hoya is not deeply buried; the transplanted plant requires standard care - as described above.
Planting and transplanting
Transplantation should be done no more than once every two years.
The fact that this flower has adventitious roots makes this process easy. To do this, a well-developed flower stem is placed in a container with soil and secured with wire. After the shoot has given roots, it is separated from the main plant.
When a flower is transplanted to a new place, the container should be slightly larger than the one from which the flower is transplanted. Hoya blooms only when its roots completely fill the entire space in the pot.
There must be a good drainage layer so that the water drains well after watering. The soil must be sufficiently loose and fertile; for this purpose, special mixtures can be used.
Pruning and shaping hoya
An important aspect of caring for hoya when growing it at home is pruning. The procedure is carried out during transplantation. It is necessary to remove those shoots that are excessively long - this will promote abundant flowering of the plant. To make the stems branch, use the method of pinching the tips after the fourth leaf is formed.
To form the crown of vines, supports are used. If the shoots are flexible, then rings, hearts, arches, spirals, etc. are suitable. Branches are secured to windows or walls with threads. Hanging plants can be left hanging from the pots. The main thing is to make sure that the flowerpot is light, otherwise the risk of it tipping over will increase.
Common Hoya Diseases and Pests
The majority of Hoya species are resistant to diseases and pests, but if the crop is not provided with proper care, it may be primarily affected by the following parasites:
Red spider mites.
Scale insects.
Aphid.
Root nematodes.
If the presence of any insects is noticed on flowers, leaves, or branches, it is necessary to treat the bush or vine with an insecticide (for example, Actellik). If indoor hoya flowers with fleshy and thickened foliage have suffered from pest attacks, you can simply wipe them with a cotton swab dipped in medical alcohol.
If the rhizome of the crop is affected by nematodes, you also need to replant it into a fresh steamed substrate and a new disinfected flowerpot.
Among the diseases of indoor hoya, the most common are:
Gray, black, root rot.
Spotting.
Powdery mildew.
If the soil is waterlogged, the room temperature is too low, the plant suffers from fungus. It leads to rot. The presence of the disease is indicated by spots - brown, gray - on the stems, leaves, buds, and wilting of the plant.
To cure the affected crop, you can use a soap-copper solution. If focal root rot occurs, then you need to remove the rhizome, treat it with Bordeaux mixture or colloidal sulfur and replant the vine or bush. If most of the root system rots, the plant will have to be destroyed.
The appearance of a white coating on a flower indicates the spread of powdery mildew. Humidifying the air in the room where the crop is grown, optimizing watering, and improving ventilation will help get rid of the disease.
Look at the photo to see what a Hoya flower looks like when it is affected by powdery mildew to be able to recognize the disease in time: