Pruning grapes in spring: schemes for beginners, timing

Pruning grapes is one of the main agrotechnical activities that must be carried out in the spring. Pruning of the vine is carried out according to the schemes and within the established time limits.
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We will tell you in this article how a beginner can choose the appropriate method and the right time for the procedure.

Why do grapes need spring pruning?

Ideally, grapes need two prunings: in autumn and spring.

Autumn pruning is sanitary. The shoots are shortened to cover the grapes for the winter. In spring, pruning has slightly different goals. Here the formation of bushes and vines comes to the fore.

It's no secret that grapes are a fast-growing crop. In just one season, the vine can significantly increase in size. Therefore, it is necessary to prune grapes regularly.

It is important for the beginning gardener to know pruning patterns to guide grape growth and distribute nutrients throughout the plant.

REFERENCE. Pruning in the spring must be carried out in regions with cold, long winters. But the autumn procedure is abandoned so that the vine does not die.

Types of pruning

Among the types of pruning of grapes, there are formative, rejuvenating and sanitary.

Formative pruning helps regulate the bush's load of vines and berries. In the first year of development, the seedling does not need special care. For proper growth, it is enough to trim the growing shoots. The seedling is tied to a support and left alone until the next season. In the second year of development, they choose a suitable pruning scheme for shaping the bushes and adhere to a single course.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out from the moment the first signs of aging of the bush are detected. This is indicated by poor development of shoots, decreased yield and peas of berries. Sometimes winegrowers resort to extreme measures and completely prune the bush, performing a complete “reboot” of the plant. The procedure is carried out in summer or autumn, following the scheme:

The base of the bush is dug 10-15 cm deep.
Next, the ground trunk is completely cut off at a height of 5-10 cm.
The cut is treated with wax or garden varnish.
The trimmed bush is covered with loose and fertile soil.
In the spring, the soil is removed, after which the young shoots quickly grow and gain strength.

Sanitary pruning is performed in the spring. The bushes are carefully inspected after hibernation and dry, diseased and damaged branches are removed.

When to prune in spring, how to choose the right day?

For a beginner, it can be difficult to decide on the timing of pruning. Especially if the region of his residence has harsh winters.

Conventionally, grape pruning can be divided into two categories according to timing:

Early;
Late.

Early pruning occurs in the first half of spring, when the snow finally melts and the air temperature steadily warms up to +5 degrees.

It is most preferable to start pruning at this time, since the plant is still “sleeping”, and, therefore, the cuts will heal faster.

Late pruning is carried out by winegrowers of the northern regions, where winter leaves long and reluctantly. If there is a danger of return frosts, then do not rush with pruning, but allow new shoots to grow up to 5-6 cm.

IMPORTANT! For beginning winegrowers, we especially emphasize: pruning must be done before the buds swell.

Why is vineyard pruning necessary?

Pruning grape bushes has a positive effect on the yield and taste of the fruit.

The need for pruning is as follows:

increasing the yield of grapes and the speed of their ripening;
increase in fruit size;
beautiful design of shrubs;
improvement of culture.

Pruning is recommended in the fall for any grape variety. You should not do this in the spring, because pruning creates a stressful situation for the plant during this period. In spring, grapes spend energy and juice on renewal, this reduces the yield level and slows down the ripening stages.

In summer and early autumn, it is worth pinching shoots, cutting off diseased and dry branches, and thinning out the foliage on grape bushes.

Timing for pruning grapes depending on the region

The timing of pruning depends on the growing region. More precisely, on climatic features.

Let's consider at what time grapes begin to be sawed in different regions of our country.

South

In Crimea, the Caucasus and Kuban, grape pruning begins already in the second decade of March.

central Russia

In Central Russia, the timing of pruning grapes is adjusted so that the threat of return frosts passes.

This is usually mid-April, but in some years you can start sawing off excess shoots as early as early April.

Northwestern regions

In the North-West of the country, pruning begins closer to the 20th of April.

Time to trim

In central Russia there is a long autumn. It is worth choosing the right time period for pruning grape bushes. It is carried out in stages:

the first stage consists of pruning diseased shoots after harvesting, while young shoots of the vineyard must be pinched;
after 14 days, deep trimming is done, the street temperature does not fall below -3°C.

Pruning is carried out using pruning shears, garden shears, and a hacksaw. First, they are treated with a solution of manganese or alcohol.

Pruning grapes in the spring in 2022 according to the lunar calendar

Beginning gardeners often forget that in agricultural activities they must be guided by the rules of the lunar calendar. In it you can find hints when the deadline for a particular procedure comes. Including trims.

It is best to prune grapes during the waning moon. This is the most appropriate time. Juices move from the “tops” to the roots, so the damage will be minimally painful.

The period of the waxing moon is considered neutral in this regard. But the full moon and new moon are definitely a bad time to saw grapes.

In the spring of 2022, beginning gardeners are recommended to prune grapes at the following times:

In March - from 1 to 12 and from 29 to 31.
In April - from 1 to 11 and from 28 to 30.
In May - from 1 to 10 and from 27 to 31.

It is better for a novice gardener to prepare tools and study pruning schemes on such days:

In March – 13 and 28.
In April – 12 and 27.
In May - 11 and 26.

Popular methods of shaping grapes

The formation process begins 1-2 years after planting the seedlings, and it lasts from 3 to 6 years - depending on the chosen modeling method. The process is completed when the bush and vine pattern appears and full fruiting is achieved.

Guyot's scheme

Used in cold regions for covering grapes. Considered a classic of the genre. This simple method allows you to cover the entire bush with sun. Suitable for beginner gardeners. Guyot's scheme:

In the first year, a strong shoot is grown. It is pruned in the fall, leaving 2-3 eyes.
In the second year, two shoots grow, they are pruned in the fall - 2-3 buds are left on one, the second is left long - the clusters will ripen on it.
After a year, a twig and a vine will grow from the twig again.

The fruiting vine is formed using imagination and the load of the bush is adjusted. By changing the length of the arrows, the size of the bunches changes.

Fan formation

The most popular option when modeling bushes. It differs from the Guyot scheme in the large number of sleeves - there are 3-5 of them, not 1-2. Different fan formations can be performed:

big or small;
with short or long sleeves;
standard or non-standard;
one- and two-sided;
single and double tier.

In cold conditions, the standardless version is more often used - a fan and a one-sided half-fan. Its advantages:

convenient to care for bushes;
convenient to cover;
easy to carry out rejuvenation;
The berries will be obtained with excellent taste properties.

The procedure for forming a bush with a fan:

The first two years of operation are no different from the previous method.
In the third year, sleeves are made - 2 vines are formed on each of them. By the third year the bush bears fruit, producing at least 4 shoots - they grow up to 1 m in length and 6-10 mm in thickness.
The first tying is done in the spring. The sleeves are tied to the bottom wire (30-60 cm from the ground), forming a “fan”.
In the spring, the shoots are pruned, making them shorter inside the fan than outside.
While growth is underway, annual shoots are constantly removed from the sleeves, leaving 2-3 at the top - they are needed to form new fruiting links and lengthen the sleeves. The garter to the trellis is performed vertically.
For 4-5 years, fruit links are created on the sleeves. To form the arrow that forms the fruit, cut the upper vine by 4-6 buds, and cut the lower vine by 2-3 buds.

What tools are needed?

A novice winegrower should take care of purchasing the necessary tools for pruning grapes in the spring.

The minimum tools include a pruner, a lopper and a bow saw. If the vine is young, then you can get by with a good pruning shears. In general, this is the number 1 tool in the pruning procedure.

When pruning large woody shoots, you will have to use garden pitch to cover the cuts.

IMPORTANT! All instruments must be sharpened and pre-disinfected.

How to prune grapes correctly

Over hundreds of years, winegrowers have determined several general rules for pruning crops, guided by which even a person without experience can cope with the task.

Required materials and tools

List of tools for pruning grapes:

The pruner is used to trim one-year and two-year branches with a diameter of up to 1.5 cm, as well as thin sleeves. To get even, neat cuts, gardeners use pruners with two blades.
The bow saw is used for pruning perennial shoots with a diameter of 7-8 cm.
The hacksaw is suitable for cutting branches with a diameter of 8 cm.
A lopper is a type of pruner. The tool is suitable for branches in hard-to-reach places. It is attached to a stick, a certain branch is hooked and it is cut off by pulling a twine tied to a lever.
A budding knife is used for budding eyes.
The grafting knife is suitable for grafting vines with cuttings.

Before use, instruments are sharpened if necessary and disinfected in medical alcohol or a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

Reference. Sleeves are perennial branches that form throughout the life of the plant and increase in size each year due to the shoots left behind when pruned.

Step-by-step instruction

Trimming rules:

The cut is made at an angle of 90° perpendicular to the branch. This allows for faster healing due to a smaller wound area compared to cutting at an acute angle.
Diseased and dead vines are completely removed.
7-12 eyes are left on the shoot.
Annual shoots that bear fruit are carefully cut off, trying not to damage the wood. Sections are made at the base of a perennial shoot, leaving a stump of 0.5 cm.
Healthy shoots with a diameter of 6-10 mm are left for fruiting. Thin and thick shoots (with a circumference of more than 10 mm) must be cut off.

What types and patterns of spring pruning are there?

Pruning grapes in spring can be done according to several schemes. All types are done at approximately the same time. It is advisable for a novice winegrower to at least have an idea of all the main ways to form a grape bush.

How to fan pruning step by step instructions

According to this pattern, several fruit arms are formed (usually more than 3).

Cut the main vine down to 2 eyes. These will be 2 sleeves. The bottom one will become a replacement knot.

Several vines grow on them during the season. They need to be cut to half a meter and tied. In this case, the internal vines should be smaller than the external ones.

The next (fourth) season, these shortened shoots will begin to form their own vines. They are shortened in exactly the same way.

Sleeveless method of pruning grapes

In the first year we prune with 4 eyes. Over the course of the season, vines will grow from them, on which we will also leave 4 eyes. Then every year we leave the lower most powerful shoots, which will bear fruit.

An important point is that after harvesting they will need to be cut down. We carry out pruning according to the same scheme in all subsequent years.

How to trim grapes in spring in one sleeve?

With this scheme, we choose the strongest shoot. It is cut off by one eye, the rest are removed. Then the vine develops. Next season we cut it by 2 eyes so that there is 35 cm between future shoots.

We repeat the procedure for several years. The result is one sleeve on which several fruiting shoots are located.

Multi-arm method of spring grape pruning

This pattern is a type of fan pruning. Only a few main fruit-bearing branches remain.

In the first year of cultivation, pruning is of a sanitary nature. There should be no more than 3 of the strongest vines left.

After wintering, the vines are shortened to 3 eyes; they will produce vines, which must be tied up during the development process in the summer.

Let's say you have 2 already three-year-old sleeves. They are again shortened to 3 buds.

In the 4th year of cultivation, the main fruit-bearing vines are replaced. The top vines are cut off, the rest are shortened so that new arrows are formed.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget about garter shoots!

How to prune grapes using the Guyot method

Guyot's scheme is quite simple, so it is often used by beginners. Carry out as soon as possible after suitable weather conditions have been established.

In the first year, the vine is cut to 2-3 eyes. These will be annual shoots. Next spring we shorten one vine to 2 eyes, and the second to 8.

The first will become a replacement knot, and the second will become the main fruit-bearing shoot.

In the third spring, we cut off the fruit-bearing vine, and on the remaining branch we again form two future sleeves, as in the first year.

What is a cordon scheme

This is a rather unusual scheme.

In the first year, we leave the lower shoot, which we direct in one direction (the length of the vine must be at least 2 m).

We cut everything down to the first bud. During the season, a sleeve will appear on which you need to leave 6-8 eye buds. They will give vines, on which you will need to leave 1 eye.

Standard cuttings

In Russia, due to the climate, it is suitable only for the southern regions, where the vine does not need to be covered for the winter.

It is carried out over several years. The scheme is like this:

In the first year, the top of the bush and all the growth are cut off. Two eyes remain.
Of the two shoots, the main and the “spare” are determined. On the main one (it should be more powerful), the top of the head is cut off, leaving 3 eyes.
In the third year of cultivation, only 2 upper shoots are left on the trunk, shortened so that 2 eyes remain. If necessary, tie it up.
Finally, the vines that have finished bearing fruit are removed, and new fruit shoots begin to form instead. The main shoot is sawed down to 15 eyes (this is the maximum, less is better), the spare shoot - up to 2.

Pruning fruiting grapes

Thanks to green operations on fruit-bearing grapes, it is possible to regulate the growth and yield of bushes. Sometimes you have to remove excess fruit-bearing shoots if the grape bush is overloaded.

Wreckage

The formation of a bush of debris is accelerated, errors made during pruning are eliminated. Improves ventilation and warming. Debris rules:

Removing unnecessary shoots growing on the head and sleeves of the bush. The shoots are left for replacement and renewal. In varieties with uneven germination of shoots from dormant eyes, cutting is carried out twice.
First of all, green shoots growing in the crowns are broken off.
If the bushes are underloaded, debris is not needed.
The cutting is done by breaking out the shoots down to the woody trunk.

Late cutting is done with pruning shears, but it harms the bush and weakens the plant.

Pinching stepsons

Young grassy shoots growing on the fruit shoot are pinched. Purposes of pinching stepchildren:

accelerating the restoration of the leaf crown or skeleton;
stopping the growth of shoots - to prevent shedding.

On underloaded bushes, pinch out vigorous shoots - several pieces, above the 3rd or 5th bud. The stepsons obtained after pinching can be used next year to form a fruit link.

An expert will tell you how to properly pincher grapes and how pinching affects yield in the following video:

Coinage

It is done to speed up the ripening of berries - while slowing down the growth of green shoots. Remove the retracted crowns, 4-7 buds at a time. Conditions for minting:

irrigation;
strong shoot growth;
poor ripening.

If grapes are grown without watering, minting is not done. Also, it is not needed for low-growing varieties.

Pruning grapes depending on the age of the bush

As mentioned above, grapes require constant shaping. Therefore, both young and old bushes are pruned.

Let's consider the basic schemes for carrying out the procedure for plants of different ages.

How to prune young bushes in spring

Spring pruning is mainly intended for young bushes that are beginning to actively bear fruit and produce a harvest.

Young plants require formation. A filing scheme is selected and the number of main shoots is determined. The correctly chosen scheme and the procedure carried out determine what kind of harvest you will get in the fall.

Pruning old plants

Old plants bear fruit for a long time and abundantly. The main task is to support them. Therefore, the following scheme is used: sick and old vines are sawed off.

Rejuvenation is also periodically carried out, when powerful old shoots are removed and 2-4 young vines are left.

Basic rules for pruning

It is important to consider the age of the bushes. Rules for spring pruning of grapes:

The cut is made at an angle of 90 degrees - so that the open cut heals faster. At a right angle, an open wound will heal faster.
Eliminate branches:
frozen over the winter;
received other damage.

At this stage, the cutting pattern is not taken into account.

Excessively elongated shoots are shortened - so that they develop and form correctly, 7-12 buds are left on them.
Shoots that bear fruit in the past season are cut off carefully, so as not to break them at the base. The shoots are cut off at a distance of 1.5 cm from the perennial branch.
To make replacement possible, shoots must be kept close to the main trunk.
Leave shoots with a diameter of 5-7 mm. Branches outside this range are pruned.

Thick shoots with a diameter of more than 10 mm are called fattening shoots - they interfere with fruiting, so they need to be removed.

When the pruning is finished, the bush looks bald at first, but after a little time it will become lush green. Young shoots, having quickly formed, will put out inflorescences - the source of the future harvest.

Pruning not only allows you to form young bushes, but also restore neglected or frozen ones. Grapes are known for their vitality - they are ready to be reborn again and again, the main thing is to take the chance correctly.

A viticulture specialist explains in a video how to properly carry out spring pruning:

What to do with frozen vines

It is important for novice winegrowers to know that sometimes severe frost causes damage to the plant. In this case, the entire above-ground part of the crop may freeze.

The procedure begins with an inspection of the plant. The number of affected kidneys is determined. Based on this, a scheme is selected.

If there are no “living” buds left on the bush, then you need to cut down the entire above-ground part of the plant.

IMPORTANT! A living bud is green, a frozen one is brown or black.

If up to 4/5 of the buds have died, then the entire vines are cut down. If less than ¾ of the buds are frozen, then pruning is carried out selectively, removing the affected parts.

Special pruning of damaged bushes

Spring pruning is carried out not only for the purpose of shaping the bushes, but also to restore the vine after winter, after unexpected return frosts and other weather surprises. Proper pruning can bring even severely damaged grapes back to life.

Frostbite in winter

If the bushes are very frozen in winter, first inspect the buds and make cuts, moving from the base to the top. If the eyes are green, then everything is fine. Dark brown or black coloration indicates damage.

If less than 80% of the buds have died, a larger number of buds are left on the fruit links than with conventional pruning. The harvest will be harvested thanks to the additional shoots on the fruit-bearing branches remaining after the autumn pruning.

If more than 80% of the buds have died, sanitary pruning is performed in two stages. To do this, before the buds open, remove frozen shoots and sleeves. After the greenery appears, cut off unnecessary growth.

If the buds are 100% dead, the stepsons, which are characterized by increased frost resistance, are examined. If the buds on them are dead, they begin to form fruit links from shoots (shoots from the underground part of the trunk) or tops (fatifying shoots).

When the entire above-ground part has died, a “black head” cut is made: they dig up the bush to a depth of 25-30 cm and cut down all the branches to a healthy node, and cover the stump with a 5 cm layer of soil. Soon young shoots will appear from the trunk. The strongest of them are left, the excess growth is cut off.

Frostbite of roots

Partial frostbite or complete death of the root system of grapes occurs due to a winter with little snow. To check the condition of the roots, it is recommended to dig up the soil in several places and make cuts. Healthy roots have a gray-white cut, frostbitten ones are dark brown.

If the frostbite diameter of the root is no more than 2.5 mm, there is no threat to the life of the plant; the main thing is that the main part of the rhizome remains intact. In case of partial frostbite, it is recommended to reduce the load on the vine by pruning the fruit shoots.

Hail damage

If, after a strong hail, the grapes have lost most of their leaves, young shoots are cut to 1-2 eyes. New shoots need to be thinned out to stimulate the growth of spare eyes, which will produce a harvest the following season.

Consequences of cold snap

Spring frosts often coincide with the awakening of the buds, so the death of young shoots, annual vines and buds is not uncommon. In this case, winegrowers perform short pruning of last year's branches to stimulate the growth of young shoots and new buds.

This is interesting:
How to water and feed grapes in spring: instructions for beginners
The best fertilizers for grapes in spring and the rules for their application
What properties should uncovered grape varieties have and which ones are considered the best?

How to carry out the procedure if the roots are frozen

When there is little snow in winter, or the bush is poorly covered in the fall, the roots of the plant freeze. In this case, pruning must be carried out as soon as possible, even if you did not plan it.

The fact is that the damaged root system can no longer perform its functions as before. This means that the load on it needs to be reduced. To save the bush, you will have to sacrifice some of the fruit-bearing vines. If frostbite is not severe, then cutting them all off makes no sense. Just prune into a few buds.

Preparatory work

Before starting work on forming a bush, prepare tools. There are few of them for grapes:

Secateurs. Here it is important to pay attention to how sharp it is in order to make the correct cuts and not create large wounds. To check, use a regular sheet of paper, the edge of which is drawn along the blade. If the paper is easily cut through without effort, then everything is fine, but if not, the pruning shear blade needs to be sharpened.
Grape saw. It has thin blades with fine teeth, which allow you to avoid shaking the plant when pruning. It is used for large branches.
Garden knife. It is used to clean cut wounds.

Assessment of the condition of the bushes

Before starting any actions, the bush is carefully inspected for damage and disease, especially paying attention to the buds and eyes.

Conventionally, there are 4 levels of possible damage, the detection of which will make pruning grapes in the spring easier for beginners:

If less than 75% of the plant and 1/3 of the buds are affected, then the fruit links are strengthened for the future harvest. Pruning is carried out on the second and third knots, leaving up to 15 eyes. They also remove excess shoots.
If the damage is over 75%, the bush is formed so that it has at least 1/3 of healthy fruits. The main thing is to prepare him for the next season. Trim off all dried and unnecessary shoots. Only the main ones should remain, which will form the bush.
When all the buds die, but the tissue is partially damaged, cut off all the shoots into 2 buds. In this case, the main goal is to preserve the grapes and ensure their normal development.
The extreme option is the almost complete death of the plant. The bush is completely removed. If the roots are still alive or damaged, they are restored using grafting.

Caring for grape bushes after pruning in spring

Grapes starting to wake up after winter have a hard time with pruning. In order for the plant to survive such a stressful situation more easily, it needs to be properly cared for.

When you make replacement shoots, do not distribute them throughout the bush, but try to place them on one side.
Old shoots are sawed off without stumps. A maximum of 1 cm is left.
It is advisable to treat large sections with garden varnish.
Loosen the soil. Thanks to this, air will reach the roots in the shortest possible time, which will have a positive effect on their properties.
Be sure to treat the plant for diseases and pests as soon as possible. Cuts are vulnerable spots of grapes into which pathogenic fungi, bacteria, and parasites can penetrate.
Be sure to start fertilizing and watering on time. Regular nutrition is the key to crop health and high vine productivity.

ON A NOTE. Trimmed shoots can be used as cuttings for propagation.

Formation of grape bushes

There are a huge variety of options for forming a grapevine. Let's focus on the simplest and most understandable form - shoots to grow not vertically, but horizontally.

Video – Grapes Bush pruning

Common mistakes

It is easy for a novice gardener to make mistakes during the procedure:

Incorrect trimming time selected. It works both ways: filing too early and filing too late. In any case, this is detrimental to the plant.
Don't stick to a specific pattern. Each scheme has its pros and cons. Of course, it is difficult for a beginner to decide which one is right for him. Therefore, start with the simplest circuits.
Careless cutting of shoots. The cuts must be smooth and neat. It's not just about aesthetics and beauty. Wounds can cause disease and death of the bush.
The pruning is not complete. Sometimes a novice summer resident does not finish what he starts. It seems to cut off, but not all the growth, leaves stepsons, and does not remove old vines. All this leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in the taste of the berries. In addition, the plant’s immunity suffers.
No care provided. After the “operation”, the grapes will need strength to recover and begin to develop. To do this, the bush needs to be fed and watered well.

Common Mistakes

When pruning grapes, inexperienced gardeners often make the following mistakes:

When sparing the plant, they do not cut off the growth, but only shorten the tops and remove dry shoots. After a few years, the vine will intertwine so that it obscures the sun - the fruit-bearing branches will not receive additional energy, and the fruits will be small and tasteless.
Shoots are cut to the wrong length. In spring, you need to take into account that the length of the cut part is determined by the thickness of the shoot. The thicker the vine, the longer its length after pruning.
Thinking that thick vines yield more yields, gardeners harvest young vines instead.

Thanks to proper and timely pruning, grape bushes will produce abundant harvests. And the berries that ripen in clusters will be juicy, large, and rich in flavor.

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Answers to frequently asked questions

Why do you need to prune grapes in spring?

The main goal is to form a bush. Removing excess vines will provide uniform access to light and air and improve the quality of the crop. The plant will also look more beautiful, which is especially important if grapes are part of a landscape design solution.

What are the benefits of spring pruning?

Pruning increases the vine's resistance to diseases and unfavorable environmental conditions (including resistance to frost), improves the taste of the berries and their quantity.

Which bushes need to be trimmed?

In the spring, young growth, early varieties, as well as the most “delicate” varieties of the crop, which require mandatory shelter for the winter, are sawed off.

Preparation for pruning grapes

Having decided to prune grapes, you should take care of preparatory measures in the spring. It is important to prepare the necessary tools, sharpen and disinfect them, waiting for the right time to start working in the garden. To organize pruning of grapes in the spring, it is important for beginners to understand the components of the bush and the significance they have for the formation of the plant.

In determining the components of a bush, great importance is given to its age. So, the grape bush is divided into 3 components. These include:

annual shoots;
two-year-old shoots;
old shoots (three years old or more).

Taking into account the external features of development, shoots may have branches - sleeves. Each of them has fruiting links, distinguished by small processes with 2-4 eyes. One shoot also grows, the number of eyes on which is greater than on the others. Only shoots that previously bear fruit become branches.

Fruiting parts are parts of the plant that grew from last year's wood. The shoots that appear on the branches of three-year-old (4 or 5-year-old) shoots are tops. You can get a harvest from them only after a season if you prune them in the spring. Knowing the parts of the plant helps you prune young grapes in the spring. Their age is distinguished by color. The bark color of a two-year-old shoot is gray or brown. The annual one is golden. One-year shoots grow from replacement buds present on 2-year-old parts of the seedling.

The start time of spring work depends on the climatic conditions of crop cultivation. In regions with a temperate climate, work in the garden begins in early March. Dried branches are removed, and the plants themselves are treated with a solution of copper sulfate. The recommended completion date for pruning is until mid-March. What was started at this time is completed due to the onset of the sap flow period, which often occurs at the end of March and beginning of April.

Pruning a perennial bush in autumn

But if a perennial bush is neglected and has never been pruned according to the rules, then you will have to work hard. Throughout the season, starting in spring, we clear perennial wood (sleeves, trunks) of any green shoots, if they appear. This is done every season, throughout the life of the bush.

If the bush consists of several perennial branches, then you need to form so-called sleeves with fruiting links on each of them.

In early September (if you did not carry out any green operations in the summer), remove or break out on each perennial shoot (future sleeve) all unnecessary green side shoots that have grown to the first wire (Fig. 1A), stretched at a height of 50-60 cm from the ground (the distance from the first wire to the second is 30 cm, all subsequent wires are stretched at a distance of 40 cm from each other).
For green shoots of branches that have grown above the first wire, the top should be cut off (i.e., chasing) by removing 10-15% of the entire length of each green shoot (Fig. 1B). And all side shoots (pasankas) should be cut off, leaving 2-3 leaves on each (Fig. 1B). There is nothing else you need to do in September!

In October, after leaf fall, a fruiting unit should be formed, consisting of a replacement knot and a fruiting frog. You should begin inspecting each sleeve of the grape bush from the bottom up. At the height of the first or second wire of the trellis, select two well-developed shoots on it: the lower shoot, which should be from the outer part of the sleeve growing at an angle at the bottom wire of the trellis, should be cut off, leaving 2 eyes on it from the base (or preferably 3 in case of freezing or damping off) - this will be a substitution knot). The first strong shoot following it, ideally should be located on the opposite (replacement knot) side, should be cut off, leaving more eyes on it than on the replacement knot - this will be the fruit arrow

Why is forming needed?

Grapes grow very quickly, and literally in one season they can entwine everything around.
Shaping is not only a way to reduce the number of vines, but also a measure to increase productivity. Its peculiarity is that the nutrients inside it are distributed unevenly - most of it goes into young shoots, and the old, fruit-bearing shoots weaken and become depleted. Important to know: Spring feeding of grapes
Pruning of grapes in the spring is carried out for the following purposes:

Increased growth. If you renew the branches in time, they will be better saturated with juices and the nutritional components they contain.
Thinning the bush. Removing excess branches improves natural ventilation and the plant receives more sunlight.
Providing access. An overgrown bush complicates harvesting and care.
Rejuvenation. The life of the vine is significantly extended if old dead branches are removed in a timely manner.
Frost protection. When the side branches are shortened, the main stems become thicker and tolerate frost better.

Without this, freely growing grapes will tend to rise, and in parallel, the lower branches will begin to weaken. Gradually the berries are crushed, the bush goes wild and will not produce a harvest at all.

Preparing tools

As for whether it is necessary to prune grapes in the spring, everything is very clear - it is really necessary. And even beginners can easily cope with this task if they thoroughly prepare for the upcoming work. The crucial moment is preparing the necessary tools.

You need to have on hand:

saw - preferably with small teeth and a thin blade;
pruner;
special knife for cuttings.

Important! Be sure to check the quality of sharpening of the tools so that the cuts are quick and clear, without damaging the shoots. You can check the quality of sharpening even on a simple sheet of paper.

When is the right time to prune grapes - in summer, autumn or spring and why. Why is the procedure needed?

The main feature of grape bushes is that they constantly produce many new shoots, which grow randomly in all directions, shading the fruiting vines. With a lack of light and living space, these vines produce few fruit buds, and those that do form do not differ in growth vigor. Few inflorescences are formed on such bushes and many of them are not fertilized. As a result, overgrown bushes produce few berries, which are small in size and sour in taste.

In addition, the grape bush directs many nutrients to the developing shoots that are at the top. With a large number of such shoots, almost all the nutrition goes to them. And there is little left for filling and ripening the berries. And a certain paradox arises - a powerful and healthy bush is completely incapable of producing many high-quality berries.

It is the spring pruning of grapes that allows you to give the grape bush the desired shape, which significantly increases the yield. If pruning is neglected or done incorrectly or not in a timely manner, the bush will gradually become overgrown, it will go wild and will forever lose its positive varietal qualities.

After the first pruning, beginners may think that the grape bush looks unsightly. But the sun's rays are able to penetrate deep into the bush, evenly illuminating all its parts.

When is the best time to prune: autumn or spring?

It is known that grapes can be pruned in both spring and autumn. The time and timing of this operation depend on many factors.

Pruning in spring	Pruning in autumn
Early varieties of this crop, as well as mid-ripening varieties	Late ripening varieties
Non-winter-hardy varieties should be pruned only in the spring, since this operation will weaken them, and they already do not tolerate frost well.	Grape varieties that are highly frost-resistant are subjected to pruning 20 days after the leaves fall
Young grape bushes that are not yet formed
Covering varieties are usually pruned in the spring.	Non-covering grape varieties

Experienced gardeners have their own preferences when choosing the timing of pruning grape bushes. Most of them fruit-bearing bushes are pruned in the fall, and formative pruning of young grapes is carried out in the spring.

Advantages of spring pruning

As a result of the pruning procedure, the following occurs:

As a result of pruning, the bushes acquire a pleasant aesthetic shape;
berry yield increases by 70%;
winter hardiness of bushes increases;
the bush is well ventilated and illuminated;
easier to harvest;
a significant amount of nutrition is directed to filling and ripening the berries.

Important! If you are late with spring pruning and carry it out during the period of sap flow, the vine will begin to “cry” and lose a lot of healing juice. The plant will become very weak and may even die.

Formation of grapes in the first year

In spring, the 2 lowest buds are left on the central shoot, the rest is cut off. Grow 2 shoots from them, and tie them up obliquely in different directions.

In late autumn, when all the leaves have fallen, this cannot be done earlier, otherwise the grapes will bleed juice, shortening the shoots. We leave one shoot short, leaving 2 buds, the second shoot is left long, leaving 4 buds. For the winter, remove the grapevine from the trellis and cover it.

How to care for the vine after pruning

A large cutting diameter weakens the plant; with multiple or incorrectly performed techniques, death is possible. To minimize the consequences, after the procedure you must:

dry the cut areas, which will reduce the risk of fungus;
Air access to the root system can be improved by loosening - it is carried out within a radius of about 50 cm from the trunk;
treatment against pests, diseases, as well as compliance with care standards is required - weeding, watering and fertilizing;
shoots are bent and tied to supports when they grow at least 25 cm.

A diagram showing how to prune grapes in the spring will help you avoid making mistakes and accidentally removing healthy fruit-bearing shoots. If everything is done correctly, the bush will delight you with a bountiful harvest and intensive development.

Deadlines

In general, the formation time is chosen based on weather conditions. Spring pruning is divided into early and late:

Early. It is carried out as soon as the snow melts. The ideal air temperature is +5°C. Sap flow in this phase has not yet begun, the “tears” dry quickly, the cut dries instantly, so the risk of fungal diseases is minimized. It is necessary to perform the procedure before the kidneys swell.
Late – April–May. This method is recommended for regions where spring frosts may return. In all other climatic zones, early formation is performed, and late formation is postponed until autumn. Its disadvantage is that it slows down the growth of new branches and depletes them.

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The timing of spring pruning is also chosen based on the region:

when to prune grapes in the spring in the Moscow region or Moscow depends on the average daily temperature - it should not fall below +5°C (usually the beginning or middle of March);
in the Urals, the procedure is carried out in the 2nd–3rd decade of March, provided that the air temperature remains stable at +5-7°C;
in the Rostov region, Krasnodar region and in the south, you need to complete the formation before the beginning of March.

In addition to the standard early sample, at the end of May, the lower dry branches are broken off so that 4–5 blossoming buds remain above. Sleeves with a maximum length of 50 cm are left at the bottom. This allows you to regulate the load on the branches, prevent excess consumption of nutrients, and correlate the number of shoots and the productivity of the root system.