How to preserve thuja in the garden in winter

Thuja is a plant of the cypress family, for which the climate of central Russia is unusual. It winters well in the south of Russia, but in other regions, attention must be paid to preparation for wintering.

Special manipulations are carried out in the first year of planting, when the plant is young and has not had time to fully adapt to the conditions during the season. In this case, it is recommended to build a shelter for the winter, and first carry out comprehensive preparation: trim the bush, fertilize it and treat it against pests.

Description

The graceful evergreen “beauty” is called the “tree of life.” It has positive energy and a pleasant aroma. Thuja belongs to the cypress family. It is not known for certain where exactly the amazing tree appeared. According to one version, its homeland is America. Today there are 5 main types of evergreen plants (western, Chinese, eastern, Japanese and folded). They vary in shape, height and other external features. Trees of amazing beauty are “long-livers”. The plant grows and develops over 100–150 years. Negative factors that lead to the death of a plant include:

low temperatures;
lack or excess of moisture;
lack of feeding;
pests.

Thujas do not require careful care, but in winter some varieties may freeze out. A tree that has not overwintered well will lose its presentable appearance and amazing aroma. Preparation of thuja for cold weather begins in the fall.

Remember

Autumn care for thujas and preparing them for the winter period is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to carry out all the necessary procedures in a timely and consistent manner and the plant will calmly endure the most severe cold.

Sources

https://remkasam.ru/podkormka-tui-chem-i-kak-nado-podkarmlivat-rastenie-osenyu.html
https://kakuhazhivat.com/dekorativnye-derevya-i-kusty/uhod-za-tuej-osenyu/
https://ogorod-bez-hlopot.ru/kak-uxazhivat-za-tuyami-osenyu.html
https://ArtPro100.ru/dom-kvartira/landshaftnyi-dizain/hvojnye/udobreniya-dlya-tui-osenyu.html
https://flowergarden.pro/uhod-za-tuej-osenyu/
https://orassade.ru/sad/derevya/chem-podkormit-tuyu-osenyu
https://EcoBelTex.ru/mnogoletnie/chem-obrabatyvat-tui-osenyu.html
https://DachaDecor.ru/posadka-i-uchod/obrezka-podkormka-i-drugie-metodi-uchoda-za-tuey-oseniu
https://remkasam.ru/uhod-za-tuey-osenyu-i-pravila-podgotovki-k-zime.html
https://qlumba.com/landshaftnyj-dizajn/139-uhod-za-tuej-osenyu

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Reasons for hiding

As a rule, young, immature trees need “winter clothes”. Their branches are still quite weak, and their shoots are thin. They may break under the weight of snow. In addition, the root system of the annual thuja, propagated by cuttings, is on the surface - a harsh snowless winter will destroy it. Also, snow accumulation leads to curvature of the crown and dampening of the needles. Another negative factor in wintering thuja is burns. If the crown is bare, then the sun's rays begin to stimulate the growth of shoots, while the roots of the plant are in “hibernation.” As a result:

thuja color changes;
needles fall;
shoots lose their usual shape.

Thus, a properly selected shelter will help the tree survive the winter outdoors.

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Plants in tubs in winter - care.

In autumn, air temperatures can drop sharply. To prevent such a drop in temperature from harming your tub plants, sensitive species must be moved to winter quarters in advance. Hardy shrubs, plants and evergreen species can overwinter outside, but they need reliable protection. We bring to your attention important tips on the proper wintering of potted plants on the balcony and terrace.

In principle, all plants that are intended to be grown in the garden in open ground are considered winter-hardy when used as potted or tub crops. These include roses, other bushes and bushes, low-growing deciduous trees, for example, boxwood, cherry laurel, barberry, as well as conifers, including dwarf juniper, dwarf pine and thuja. Winter-hardy cereal grasses, perennial herbaceous plants, such as sage, and garden herbaceous perennials, such as hosta, heuchera and sedum, can overwinter outdoors. However, all these plants cultivated in pots and tubs are much more sensitive to cold than the same plants planted in open ground, since the earthen ball in which their roots are located freezes much faster. This applies primarily to young plants.

Selection of materials

It is not difficult to purchase thuja bags for the winter. The modern market offers a huge selection of covering materials. First of all, you should pay attention to:

burlap;
gauze;
tulle;
cotton;
polypropylene bags;
roofing felt;
polymer mesh;
kraft paper.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend covering evergreen shrubs with cellophane or polyethylene. These materials create a “greenhouse effect”, which leads to the death of plants. Note that it is important to use non-woven materials that allow air to pass through and protect from direct sunlight. It is advisable to purchase white bags.

In addition to protecting the crown, it is necessary to take care of the wintering of the thuja roots. There are several preparation options.

The soil is mixed with foliage. Such a “blanket” perfectly retains moisture at the root system, and humus will be an excellent fertilizer for the plant.
Mulching with peat, sawdust or conifer bark. Layer thickness – at least 10 cm.
In addition, spruce branches are placed on a layer of organic matter, which is removed when the weather warms up. This point is especially important for young trees, since their root system has not yet become stronger. The spruce branches can protect the plant from “severe” frosts. Also, before insulation, thuja must be watered abundantly.

Gardening Tips and Tricks

In order for the thuja to retain its characteristics in winter, it is necessary to follow simple advice from experienced gardeners:

Before covering the crop, you must carefully tie it with a garden bandage. This procedure will protect the plant from damage;
Thuja is often damaged by pests in winter. Therefore, a few weeks before sheltering, it is necessary to treat the crop with Bordeaux mixture;
To prevent the plant from getting sunburn in winter, it is necessary to cover the crop with dark or matte material.

In order for young seedlings to survive the winter after planting in the fall, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the roots.

Plants with a weak root system have a long adaptation period and may die in winter. Therefore, summer residents often transplant seedlings into tubs for the winter and keep them indoors.

Methods

Preparation of thuja for winter begins in the fall, before the first frost and snow. The simplest option is bags of a suitable size, which are secured with twine. It is enough to wrap an adult plant with strong roots with a strong rope. Another way to cover tall varieties of thuja involves constructing a frame. It’s not difficult to make – just drive three metal pins over the top of the thuja (crosswise) and secure it. Then cover the frame with non-woven material. Special shields that create shade will provide excellent protection from the spring sun. Low-growing bushes can be covered with wooden boxes. Snow from “insulated” trees must be periodically shaken off.

Many gardeners plant evergreen thujas in tubs. In winter, plants are removed indoors or covered with non-woven material. As a rule, there is drainage installed at the bottom of the container, which perfectly helps to retain moisture in the pots. Simply water the plant and cover it with a cotton bag, securing it around the trunk with wire or rope. It is important to know that a coniferous tree will not be able to survive the winter in a dark and damp room. In winter, thujas growing in tubs require certain conditions.

The optimal temperature should not exceed +5 degrees. If the thermometer in the room drops to -3, then the pots are additionally insulated.
Regular watering. In winter, the soil in the tubs should not be allowed to dry out. This will cause the tree needles to yellow and fall off.

Also, thuja in containers overwinters well on a glazed balcony. Caring for the plant will not be difficult. The tree will be able to receive the necessary lighting and fresh air. Before the onset of frost, the plant is watered abundantly and wrapped in craft paper. Throughout the winter, water is periodically poured into the bowls located under the pots. The permissible room temperature should not exceed +12 degrees.

Treatment against diseases and pests

In the autumn, when preparing thuja for winter, it would be good to do preventative treatment of the conifer against diseases and pests before sending it for the winter.

Advice! It is advisable to carry out even 2 treatments: the first - from diseases and, accordingly, the second - from pests.

For fungal diseases (in particular rust) - copper sulfate , Bordeaux mixture (30 g per 10 liters - for treatment, 10 g per 10 liters - for prevention) or special preparations - Khom, Abiga-pik (based on copper oxychloride), Acrobat MC.
For pests (especially aphids) - Actellik, regular Fufanon or Fufanon-Nova, Rogor, Karbofos, Konfidor, Decis (use everything according to the instructions).

Basic rules for preparing thuja for winter

There are several simple recommendations, consistent adherence to which will help you provide the plant with comfortable conditions during the winter and maintain its appearance and health.

Stopping the application of nitrogen fertilizers

Feeding plants with nitrogen is a popular measure among gardeners, helping the green pet to quickly grow leaf mass. Because of this, the last feeding of thuja with such fertilizer should be carried out no later than mid-August, so that the bush does not form young shoots that will not have time to ripen well and become stronger before the onset of frost, which means they can suffer greatly in winter.

Root system stimulation

As a rule, young annual shrubs, as well as older plants transplanted to a new location at the end of the season, need this procedure. Dilute a root formation stimulator in a bucket (10 l) of water, for example:

Cornerost (4–5 tablets),
Zircon (40 drops),
Kornevin (10 g).

Water the bushes with the resulting solution. After a few days, you can carry out moisture-charging watering by pouring 20–30 liters of water into the tree trunk circle - this is necessary not only to saturate the roots with water, but also to prevent them from freezing. It is very important to have time to complete this procedure before the onset of cold weather, so try to do it before the end of September - early October (in the southern regions this period can be extended until mid-late October), not forgetting to monitor the weather forecast.

Sanitary pruning

Like any other tree or shrub, thuja needs timely removal of diseased, broken and improperly growing branches (for example, those protruding strongly from the bush or growing inward). Arm yourself with pruning shears or garden shears if your bush has thick branches and cut off any excess. If large cuts remain, do not forget to lubricate them with garden varnish, and also disinfect the tools before and after pruning (for this purpose, you can use kerosene, alcohol, or ignite the blade over a fire). Pruning should be done after the onset of stable frosts (-1 o C...+5 o C). Typically, such temperatures occur from mid-October to early November.

Before covering the thuja for the winter, you need to remove all dried branches

Warming bushes

After you have completed all the preliminary work, you can begin to take protective measures on the bushes themselves. This is done like this:

Lift the thuja branches up, press them to the trunk and secure them in a circle - wire, thin rope or twine are good for this purpose. For greater stability, you can install a pole next to the thuja and tie the bush to it, having previously wrapped the place where the rope comes into contact with the tree with a piece of fabric.

To prevent snow from harming the thuja branches, they need to be fastened at the trunk

To cover the thuja, it is advisable to choose a breathable material

Processing the tree trunk circle

As you know, a trunk circle prepared for winter is one of the necessary conditions for preserving the health of a tree during the cold period, so no later than mid-September, dig it shallowly and remove all weeds, and then mulch it after placing the bush itself under covering material. Compost, dry leaves, peat chips, rotted manure or dry straw work well - the main thing is that the mulch layer is loose. Another important condition is its thickness - in the southern regions the layer of mulch can reach 5-7 cm, in the central regions - 10-15 cm, in colder regions - 20-30 cm. For additional warmth and to prevent swelling of the mulch material on top, you can infrequently lay spruce branches

For thuja, it is advisable to choose loose mulching material

If you live in a region where there is a lot of precipitation in winter, you can additionally install a pyramid-shaped fence over the bush, covering it with fabric. This is necessary so that the snow slides to the ground without breaking or deforming the crown of your plant.

The pyramidal shape of the fence allows you to keep the thuja bush intact in winter, since the snow will roll down to the ground

As you can see, preparing thuja for winter is not a difficult task, and you can handle it quite well even if you have no experience. Perform all work consistently and in a timely manner, and your bush will delight you with its health and beauty for a long time.

Is it necessary to feed thuja in the fall?

Thuja does not need special fertilizer in the fall, except for the time after pruning the tree: then it should be fed. After these manipulations, the plant is weakened and must be carefully inspected. If you notice pests: false scale insects or aphids, be sure to spray the bush with preparations to protect coniferous trees from insects. After you trim the crown, feed the thuja using the following fertilizers:

green manure;
manure;
complex mixtures intended for coniferous plants.

The main thing you must remember when feeding is to be a reasonable measure. A large amount of fertilizer can lead to the death of the plant. This is explained by the fact that fertilizing strongly stimulates the development of the tree. Young roots and newly formed shoots are not able to withstand the cold and the thuja may simply die.

The safest way to fertilize a plant in the fall is to fertilize it with peat, wood ash or compost. This type of fertilizing well enriches the soil in which the thuja grows, and at the same time is correctly accepted by the tree: the fertilizer does not lead to the active formation of young shoots.

Complex fertilizers

Mineral complexes selected with precise calculation of nutritional composition. Ready-made mixtures are suitable for those who have been growing conifers for a short time and have no experience in combining fertilizers.

Complex fertilizers are marked according to the seasonal application. Fertilizer for thuja in the autumn includes potassium and phosphorus components. In spring, they contain more nitrogen.

Fertika liquid fertilizers for conifers well nourish the soil with minerals, acidify the soil, and promote growth. In addition to the Fertik series, feeding thuja in the fall with Green Needle is effective. Magnesium and sulfur in large quantities will help maintain the rich color of the needles.
The drug Aquarin is diluted in water for a liquid solution and fed to the thuja until the end of September. A complex of useful microelements is contained in preparations from the manufacturers Agricola and Bona Forte for conifers.

Single component fertilizers

Fertilizing thuja with one-component fertilizers is necessary if the chemical composition of the soil does not correspond to the conditions for normal growth of the shrub. Often there is a deficiency of calcium, phosphorus, potassium and other trace elements.

Phosphorite flour contains not only phosphorus, but also calcium, and is used on acidic soils. Together they will have a lasting effect on the root system and initiate the growth of needles. An additional source of calcium will be horn shavings or bone meal.
Superphosphates also contain calcium, aluminum, iron phosphates, supplemented with sulfur, molybdenum and other components. Effective on saline soils. Fertilizer is applied in dry form around the conifer or when digging the soil, after which it is shed generously with water. If you apply superphosphate in the autumn, its maximum activity will appear in 4-6 months (closer to spring), which means that the root system will not be affected.
Potassium fertilizers, for example, monopotassium phosphate, are used to replenish potassium deficiency and provide good wintering. At the end of summer and in September, apply 10-15 grams of the drug per plant, diluted in 10 liters of water. After which a mulching layer of organic matter is poured. Tree bark, pine needles, humus, hay, small crushed stone, and stones are excellent as mulch.

Organic fertilizers

This group of fertilizers includes peat, manure, and composts. They have an accelerated effect on soil fertility. Green manure fertilizers are used to improve the agricultural background; they do not provoke the growth of shoots at the end of the growing season.

Slurry. It will help increase soil fertility and the presence of humus. To feed thuja, manure must be diluted with water to a liquid state. At the same time, it is important to maintain a balance in dosage so that the growth of shoots does not outstrip the development of needles.

Biofertilizers are produced in liquid form, one of the popular ones is “Soft Power” intended for conifers, in 0.5 and 5 liter canisters. Horse manure in its composition promotes the growth of roots and crown mass. It is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, after which the plant is watered or sprayed.

Ash. Wood ash contains potassium and phosphorus and is considered one of the most useful fertilizers. To feed, you will need a can of ash (1 liter volume) and a bucket of water. The components are mixed and left to infuse for 3-5 days. The finished solution is poured as close to the roots as possible; you can dig a hole in advance for better access to the system. Wood ash is applied two weeks before nitrogen fertilization to avoid neutralization and ensure their effect is effective.

Due to the lack of nitrogen in the ash, it can not only be fed to thujas, but also used when planting cuttings or replanting shrubs. Nutrients will help the cuttings better adapt to the conditions and promote the development of the root system.

Urea. It contains a large amount of nitrogen in its composition, and a long period of decomposition complements its aggressive properties. Gardeners do not recommend using urea for additional nutrition of thuja. Ammonium nitrate is chosen as a nitrogen source (if necessary).

Mycorrhizal preparations

With their help, better root growth occurs, as well as increased immunity, resistance to diseases and pests.

Is it necessary to cover thuja for the winter?

An adult plant aged 5 years and older does not need shelter even at a temperature of -30 degrees. The tree easily tolerates light frosts, overwinters well, and low temperatures do not frighten it at all. For young plants, frost poses a threat. A tree that is not yet 4-5 years old has weak branches. When snow covers the branches, they become deformed and break under the weight.

Another danger to the tree is the winter sun. It is very active, so burns often form on thuja branches and the needles burn out. Even if direct sunlight does not hit the crown too much, the needles may suffer from drying out. If the thuja has not been prepared for winter, then it is most likely that the following shortcomings will appear on the tree:

the shoots will be twisted and ugly;
the color of the crown will change to yellow-green;
the needles will dry out and then fall off.

To prevent an unpleasant outcome and preserve the culture, make a shelter for it. Nothing bad will happen to the thuja over the winter, and in spring and summer it will continue to delight with its attractive appearance and decorate your summer cottage.

Top dressing

Coniferous plants, which are undemanding to soil composition, do not require frequent feeding. But in order for them to quickly recover after pruning, mineral fertilizers are periodically applied under the roots. It is important that the packaging of fertilizers indicates that they are intended specifically for autumn feeding. The composition must include potassium, the lack of which causes a yellowish coloration of the tips of the crown. In addition, this microelement strengthens the roots of the tree.

How to cover thuja

Sheltering a thuja for the winter is a simple process, but a little painstaking, as it requires care. First, tie the tree branches with thick twine. Do not pull the twine too tight, otherwise it will be hard on the branches. It is enough to fix the crown so that snow cannot fall on the branches. Gather the branches up toward the center of the tree and then begin tying in a circle. Start the process at the base of the tree and gradually move to the top.

If your region experiences heavy snowfalls with the onset of winter, it makes sense to build a frame. You need to drive 3 pins made of metal or wood into the ground next to the crop. They should intersect at one point - above the top of the tree. Then wrap the frame with covering material that allows air to pass through. Be sure to strengthen the material to the frame so that it does not blow away in a gust of wind. Tie it with twine, for example.

Stores that offer a large selection of gardening tools sometimes have special covers for plants on sale. Buy them, they are easy to use and will serve you for decades. You just need to put the cover on and straighten it on the thuja, then the plant will stand wonderfully all winter, until the beginning of spring. In the spring, remove the cover, wash and dry it; you won’t need it until the fall.

Another method of shelter is to install a sun screen. This could be a wooden box or a homemade device. Drive the pegs parallel to each other into the ground. Cover the space between the pegs with roofing material or a special sun-protective fabric. Such a shelter will prevent the needles from burning out even in the spring, when the sun is very active.

To protect thuja in winter, use a few practical tips:

annual and biennial trees are covered first, even before the snow falls;
if a lot of snow has fallen during the winter, remove it from the shelter;
the cover can be removed after the snow begins to melt.

It is more convenient to cover a tree with two or three people. Ask someone in your family to help you, and you can do it in just a few minutes.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Is it possible to mulch the soil with pine needles?

The crop prefers acidified soil, so you can use pine needles as mulch. However, in order to get the maximum effect, it is necessary to mix the needles with sawdust or peat.

When is it necessary to remove the cover from a plant?

To protect the plant as much as possible, the cover should be removed only after weather conditions return to normal. Otherwise, there is a risk of yellow spots appearing on the needles.

Warming the roots

In addition to keeping the crown warm and protected from the sun, you need to think about how to insulate the root system. The roots of young plants are exposed to frost, and the plant itself will quickly die if the roots are frozen. Suitable for insulating the root system:

peat or any other organic component. The main condition is that the mulch must have a loose layer;
a mixture of fallen autumn leaves with soil or humus. In addition to protection from the cold, such a mixture will eventually become an excellent fertilizer for the root system;
sawdust, straw.

The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 5 cm, but no more than 10 cm. The mulch is placed near the tree trunk, and bastweed is laid on top of it. It will protect the root system from rodents and press down the mulch.

Priming

There is specialized soil for conifers and a variety of fertilizers. But ordinary soil will do. I planted my sprout in purchased soil for all types of plants. Thuja grows and rejoices.

Gardeners advise making a little drainage (put pebbles and small stones at the bottom of the pot), and also mixing fertile soil with sand. Or lay it out in layers: sand, black soil.

I’m telling you my experience: I planted it in ordinary soil.

How to choose covering material

Choose the material for covering the thuja depending on its throughput; it should be high and allow air to penetrate inside. It is strictly forbidden to take material that does not allow air to pass through, for example, cellophane film. A greenhouse effect will develop under it, as a result of which the tree will begin to rot, shed its needles and get sick. The best material for winter shelter is:

Choose a material with a white color; in addition to warmth, it will reflect the sun’s rays from the tree, thereby preventing the needles from “burning.” Therefore, if you choose black roofing felt for covering, wrap a white sheet or duvet cover over it.

Pot and soil

Yes, this is a tree, so the pot or flowerpot must be voluminous. Even for a small plant. This way the roots will strengthen faster, and the thuja will grow upward.

There are no recommendations here other than the pot should be large. That is, choose the shape and configuration according to your taste and interior. If the tree will stand on the floor and the windows are not panoramic, it is better to buy an urn-type pot, tall, so that more sunlight falls on the thuya. These trees love the sun.

How to keep thuja in a pot

If your thuja is still small, then it is probably still sitting in the pot. Then there will be no problems with shelter, just with the onset of sharp cold weather, remove the tree from the street into a cool room, place the pot with the plant in the basement, cellar, or take it out onto a glazed balcony. The optimal temperature range for wintering thuja is considered to be from 4 to 10 degrees Celsius. Check that there is no high humidity in the room, and water the plant itself well and wrap it in craft paper. It is advisable that there is a light source in the room, for example, a small window. You can move the thuja to a cool room for the winter, but just keep the plant away from heating radiators and open the window for fresh air.

Thuja propagation options

Despite the fact that many cannot decide whether the thuja is a coniferous or deciduous tree, it reproduces in different ways: by seeds, cuttings, and dividing the bush.

Propagation by seeds

This is the longest and most difficult path. First, seeds are collected and must be planted in December in containers in pre-prepared soil. Then the boxes are put away in a cellar or basement for several months, until the first shoots appear. Next, the containers are installed in a warm place for further growth of seedlings.

How to propagate a plant from cuttings

Thuja propagates by cuttings in early spring. They are cut from the tree from the side shoots, at least 30 cm long. The cut sites are processed and planted in the ground for rooting.

When is the best time to cover

There are different ways to close a tree for the winter in different regions. It depends on the onset of cold weather in a particular region, on the duration of winter and on its average temperature. So, in the southern zone the tree does not have to be covered for the winter. It grows quietly both in a summer cottage and in the forest. But for other regions, to preserve thuja in winter, you need to make a little effort.

Middle lane

Cooling in the middle zone begins in late October or early November. At this time, when there is no snow yet, a 5-centimeter layer of mulch is laid near the tree trunk, covered with spruce branches and the crop is left to overwinter. Around the second part of winter, from the end of January, sun-reflecting screens are installed next to the tree to protect the needles. There is no need to wrap the crown with agrofibre, since the temperature in the middle zone rarely drops below +20 degrees, and overheating is dangerous for the tree.

Volga region

Winter comes to the Volga region at the end of autumn, so from the end of October you can begin winter preparations. For the Volga region, as well as for the Central zone, only mulch is laid for wintering. The layer can be thicker, its height will be about 10 cm. Only young trees can be protected from the cold. Take a 5-liter plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and cover the tree with it. To keep the color out of the plastic, wrap it in a white pillowcase. If your thuja is more than 4 years old, then do not wrap it up for the winter; it will stand just fine as is.

Ural and Siberia

In the northern part of the country, winter comes very early, literally in mid-October, so preparations begin earlier than in the central part of Russia. To begin with, the soil is mulched with a layer of peat or sawdust 10 cm thick. Fir branches are placed on top of the mulch. Then a cone-shaped wire frame is made. Agrofibre or any protective material is pulled over the wire and secured with twine on top so that it does not fly off. In addition to the wire frame, you can wrap the thuja with spunbond. The tree cover is removed in Siberia no earlier than mid-March, since frost lasts a long time in the region.

Thuja oasis. Combination with other plants, stones

If the pot suggests that the ground will be visible, then moss can be planted underneath. It reproduces well and is perennial. It dries out in the winter, but comes to life again in the spring.

The moss will cover the entire ground around the tree and create even more greenery on your balcony.

We sell sphagnum moss without roots (stabilized moss). It has only a decorative function, and also keeps the soil in the pot moist longer in hot weather.

Also, stones, cones, wooden bark, and shavings are placed in flowerpots with thujas.

If we recall the southern landscapes, it is this combination of conifers and stones that creates a unique atmosphere.

Types of the most common mistakes

Inexperienced gardeners who have never encountered growing crops immediately make many mistakes. As a result, the tree cannot tolerate them and over time either dries out or rots. Here are options for the most common mistakes from agricultural practice:

for the winter, the crowns of young trees are left uncovered;
use fertilizers that are intended for deciduous trees (nitrogen complexes);
do not cover the needles with sun screens;
the shelter is removed too early.

An important step in the development of a tree is the formation of the crown. If it is not planted correctly, the plant immediately loses its appearance. Therefore, after the shelter is removed, the thuja needs to be trimmed. For pruning, take pruning shears, they are convenient to work with. First of all, remove dry and diseased branches with yellow needles from the top and middle part of the tree, they are already dead. If the crown is excessively thick, thin it out a little. This will increase the breathability of the tree and also reduce the risk of pest attack on the crop. In order for your thuja to grow better not up, but in width, cut off part of the top; trimming the top helps stimulate the side shoots, they become more active. There are 3 types of thuja pruning:

spiral The most common form for pruning thuja. in general, the tree resembles a large cone, its top will be narrowed;
spherical. This option is suitable for forming low crowns. The plant looks great on a summer cottage, in a winter garden;
topiary The crown is formed in the form of any geometric figure: rhombus, square, ball. Garden stores sell metal frame molds for laying the crown, according to which they subsequently perform pruning.

Thuja will be the main decoration of your local area if you care for it correctly: protect it from the cold outside, trim the crown, and water it regularly. A healthy and beautiful tree pleases the eye and attracts the attention of everyone around. Thuja can live for decades, no matter what region you plant it in, so if you love evergreens, then the choice for planting is obvious.

What problems may arise and how to solve them

Gardeners who have little experience working with conifers can make a lot of mistakes when preparing for winter. As a result, the tree will dry out or rot. Here are the most common options:

Thuja begins to shed its needles. This occurs due to insufficient hydration. In this way, the tree tries to reduce the load in order to preserve at least the trunk. In this case, you should not sharply increase the amount of watering. Moisturize gradually, incrementally. As a result, 1 watering should take from 5 to 8 liters of water.
Turns yellow. Dieback occurs every 3-5 years and means that the branches just need to be cut off. It is best to carry out the procedure in the spring. If yellowing occurs after winter, then this is a consequence of sunburn and lack of nutrients. In this case, the old branches are carefully cut off and fertilized, after which a quick recovery occurs.
The bark is cracking. Occurs due to rapid growth or the presence of pests. The plant is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or covered with garden balsam. For pests, treat for 7-10 days with Fufan or dandelion infusions.

If the problem is correctly identified, it will be possible to quickly cure the plant and this year it will delight with its incredible beauty.

What to do if the thuja needles turn yellow

If you see that some thuja (platycladia) branches turn yellow and fall off, then there is no need to worry! This is a completely normal phenomenon - a branch fall. The fact is that the old branches have completed their life cycle (it lasts about 3-6 years), and, like leaves, fall off in the fall.

And as already mentioned, in the fall it is necessary to remove all the fallen needles in the tree trunk circle and cut off the yellow and brown needles on the bush itself. If you leave it, pathogens and pests can multiply on it.

Anti-yellowing remedies

It often happens that decorative coniferous trees turn yellow, crumble and lose their magnificent appearance. In this case, the reasons for the color change should be identified and timely measures should be taken to restore the natural state of the evergreen beauty. The main reasons include:

Natural yellowing of thuja. The duration of each needle is 5 years. After this, chlorophyll stops being produced, and individual shoots or parts thereof turn yellow. This is considered a natural process. The branches will dry out and fall off, and young shoots will grow in their place.

Advice! In this case, you should not take any action. It is enough to carefully trim the wilted shoots to speed up the process.

Seasonal color change as a reaction to cold weather and adaptation to frost.
Improper planting and care of the plant. Thuja requires careful planting and proper care, so the appropriate procedures must be followed according to the rules without fail.
Planting density, which leads to insufficient air circulation around the plants. In this case, it is necessary to replant the trees, maintaining the required distance between planting units.
Damage by diseases and pests. Specially designed products, which include commander, cartocide or Bordeaux mixture, will help cope with this problem. Treatment should be carried out several times, maintaining an interval of 14 days.
Incorrectly selected fertilizer or calculation of its dose. The solution to this problem will be a well-designed system for applying fertilizers.

The health of a coniferous tree, its growth and development depends on the efforts spent by the gardener on important agricultural techniques. All planting and care activities will extend the life of the thuja, give a beautiful appearance to the garden, and prevent the development of insidious diseases caused by viruses, fungi and bacteria.

For what reason does the thuja shed its needles in the fall?

There are several reasons for needle drop, but the most common and easily identified include:

too strong and prolonged frosts, which have an extremely negative impact on the appearance of the crown of not very frost-resistant varieties in the absence of high-quality insulation;
severe drought in the autumn in the absence of high-quality freezing measures and drying out of the root system;
sunburn, severely burning the youngest and most recently planted plants, in the absence of shading;
too late and excessive application of chemical fertilizers, causing burns to the root system.

Among other things, ornamental crops can be affected by some diseases and plant parasites, including late blight, brown shoots, rust and schutte, thuja false scale, thuja moth, wireworm, thuja pine beetle and spider mite.

Why does thuja bark crack in autumn?

Breaks in the bark occur during the process of active growth of the cambium, which is located between the conifer bark and the wood. Through cracks formed in the bark, viral and fungal infections enter the wood, which can quickly cause the death of an ornamental crop.

To restore the health of the plant, you need to completely stop applying complex fertilizers and growth accelerators, and also be sure to add monopotassium phosphate, or a mixture based on 15 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate, into the tree trunk circles, which will stop rapid growth processes. It is recommended to treat cracks in the bark with a solution consisting of 15 ml of fufanon and 50 g of Abiga-Pik, diluted in a bucket of warm water. At the final stage of treatment, the cracks are cleaned and covered with garden varnish.

Basic measures that will allow you to preserve thuja in winter

To make your green beauty pleasing to the eye, you need to take care of it. If we consider such a species as the western thuja and all its forms, then in general we can say that these plants are unpretentious and tolerate negative temperatures well. However, other winter factors can cause harm. In order for the thuja to winter well, we begin preparations in the fall.

The first thing to do is to cover the thuja for the winter , and only young plants that are still weak, with thin tender shoots (the first year of planting). The material for these purposes must be white, non-woven (for example, spunbond, agroterm, lutrasil). It is best to prepare a bag from the selected material, which is simply put on the plant. Moreover, he should not pull the thuja tightly. If desired, you can build a wooden frame that fits around the plant. Then the frame is covered with material.

The shelter will allow the snow to not linger on the top of the thuja; it will roll off . If you do not organize a shelter, the top may become deformed, and wide spreading plant specimens (for example, spherical shape) will take on an unattractive appearance, because the snow will push through the center, pushing the branches apart, and as a result a void will form. In this case, the crown can first be secured with a rope.

Then you need to insulate the root system . For this purpose, you can use leaves that are mixed with soil. They will not only protect the roots from frost, but will also retain moisture, and over time they will rot and become an additional fertilizer.

The measures considered must be carried out in the second half of autumn, preferably before snow falls. Overwintering of adult plants can take place without shelter.

In winter, you should make sure that the thuja is not covered with snow, which can lead to the needles becoming warm. The same rule also applies to those who are accustomed to throwing snow from paths onto plants, mistakenly assuming that it will make them warmer.

In spring, do not rush to release your beauties, because they can burn from the sun . Wait until the ground thaws completely and the temperature reaches above zero. It’s even better if you additionally install shields that will shade the thujas.

Also, before winter and early spring, it is advisable to water coniferous plants abundantly so that the ground is saturated with moisture. It is worth keeping in mind that you can make a shelter not only with your own hands, but also buy a ready-made special design in a specialized store.

For example, a shelter for pyramidal plants “Winter Garden” 1.5 m high costs about 550 rubles.

Types by color

The color of the crown largely determines the appearance of the tree: what do you choose - classic green, original yellowish or noble blue?

Greens

Most of the varieties that we reviewed above have a green tint to the crown: Brabant, Smaragd, Aurea nana, Justinka and many others.

Interesting options from those that were not indicated:

Woodwardy

The thuja variety Woodwardii is almost 100 years old and all this time it has been and remains one of the most popular varieties in Europe. The crown is spherical, but elongated: it looks like an egg. Dimensions can reach 3 meters from edge to edge, 2.5 from bottom to top.

Little Giant

The ovoid shape of the thuja is similar to the previous one, but is inferior in size: the dimensions do not exceed 80-100 centimeters.

Little Giant is ideal for minimalist oriental garden projects.

Golden

Ornamental trees and shrubs with a yellowish tint accentuate the green thickets and create natural contrasts.

Reingold

Bright light green-yellow needles with orange young branches fit perfectly into the design of gardens and alleys. The size of the thuja is 2-4 meters up, 2-3 m sideways.

Since the Rheingold variety originally grew in Canada and North America, thuja is not afraid of frost, wind, and moisture.

Golden Smaragd

A subvariety of the emerald species already known to us. Golden smaragd has a juicy bright yellow crown, but requires planting in a bright sunny place - otherwise the needles will become faded and lose their decorative effect.

Golden Globe

Golden globe is a dwarf subspecies of the Woodwardie described above with a yellow coloration. The dimensions of the ball reach 1 m, they are often used in compositions with stones, and planted in flower beds as a tapeworm.

Blue

Like blue spruce or juniper, thuja with a blue tint looks very impressive.

Blue Con

Perhaps the most famous blue thuja. Not only does the crown itself have a bluish tint, but also the cones with which the tree is richly covered are also blue.

This oriental variety tolerates heat well, grows up to 3 m, and is egg-shaped.

Meldensis

The crown of the thuja changes with age and the change of years: the egg eventually turns into a cone, the blue summer shade gives way to winter lilac. Meldensis is a dwarf species, not exceeding 30 centimeters in height.

White

The rarest color of thuja is white. This does not mean that the crown has the shade of chamomile petals. The color of the needles is rather green with white or light gray veins.

White Smaragd

The White Smaragd variety is the most common - the tree looks like its green or yellow counterpart, but has chaotic white spots throughout the entire thickness of the branches that persist throughout the year.

The three-meter tree grows in the shape of a cone. Delicate needles do not like bright sun; it is better to plant them in partial shade.

How to restore thuja after winter?

Not everyone carries out preparatory measures, so in the spring they may see a completely bleak picture. This may be a change in color, drying out (partial or complete) and falling of needles, curvature of shoots, and others. Most often people wonder why the thuja turned yellow after winter. There may be several reasons for this.

Firstly, thuja prefers light soils, slightly acidic or slightly alkaline. Therefore, make sure that the alkali content is low, which can be done using a special indicator test (available in garden stores).

If you have a dog, you should limit its access to thujas, as its urine can burn the needles and increase the alkali content in the soil. You can acidify the soil by adding peat or compost.

To revive the plant, you need to feed it, treat it with stimulants (2-3 times - one treatment per week) and sprinkle the crown at least once a week.

Secondly, the cause of yellowing and drying out may be a spring burn . It usually occurs when the air begins to warm up quickly, which stimulates the growth of shoots, but the soil cannot thaw so quickly and remains frozen, so the roots are still at rest.

Weakening the plant, in turn, can cause it to become sick and pests may appear. Therefore, it is necessary to shake off the dry pine needles with your hands, collect them and burn them. There is no need to prune; you will do this next spring, when you can see for sure which branches have dried up.

Then, every 2-3 weeks, treat the thuja along the crown with fungicides (for example, phytosporin) . Also spray with stimulating drugs (epin 3 times for 3 weeks) and irrigate the crown with plain water in the morning and evening. These measures will help the plant, but do not expect a quick recovery, it may take 2-3 years. This is exactly how long it may take to completely restore the needles.

Sometimes the cause of poor condition of thujas can be improper planting. Therefore, before you plant a plant, make sure that you do it correctly.

Conditions for growing thuja

This plant requires moderately moist, fertile soil and good drainage.
In dry soil, the plant may wither. To plant this plant, you can use soil intended for conifers, or a mixture of rotted pine bark, peat and compost. Near the thuja, experts advise pouring soil with mulch from pine cones and needles. In addition, the plant variety must be taken into account. For example, the eastern thuja prefers acidic soil, while the western variety develops well in calcareous soil.

The planting area should be free of hard clods of soil and weeds. If the future thuja will be part of a hedge, then it is necessary to prepare a strip, the width of which should be at least 80 cm. This area of land must be covered in advance with a dark film, which will prevent the germination of weeds.

After planting, the thuja absorbs the maximum amount of nutrients. The volume of fertile soil should be three times the size of the depression. The bottom of the hole should be lined with a 30-centimeter layer of gravel and filled with water. A seedling is placed on it and sprinkled with earth, after which the hole is again watered abundantly.

After planting, it is recommended to use mycorrhizal material for grafting. To inhibit the growth of weeds, a thick layer of pine bark should be placed near the thuja.

For stable growth, the tree needs to be fertilized systematically. If the thuja does not receive nutrients, it will begin to get sick often and may even die.

Coniferous mood on the balcony

Solar-powered garlands for sale. They charge from the sun during the day, and shine for several hours in the evening. The brighter it was during the day, the more intense the fire. If the day was cloudy, then you may not see the lights, but more often the garland still lights up.

Battery-powered garlands can be purchased

You can wrap it around thuja. Then in the evenings on the balcony you will find not just an oasis of thuja, but also a firefly mood.

Garlands come in different sizes (from a meter to 10 or more) and colors. There are droplets - very chiseled lights, there are massive beads, light bulbs, and so on. You can choose those that blink or light in one mode. They are hung not only in December, on New Year’s Eve, but they are simply not removed either in winter or in summer.

Features of autumn care for thuja

The main measures for caring for ornamental plants in the autumn are aimed at strengthening the immune system and preparing for winter frosts. In order for the conifer to easily survive the winter, it must be provided with the correct agricultural technology.

Thuja watering regime in autumn

A crop planted in the autumn period requires irrigation measures and sprinkling in volumes equivalent to spring seedlings. A young plant is in great need of collecting a sufficient amount of moisture , which has a positive effect on overwintering. If there is a sufficient amount of precipitation in the fall, then watering should be reduced to almost a minimum or stopped completely.

Too much moisture, which affects the root system of a plant for a couple of weeks, often becomes the main cause of damage to the crop by pathogenic microflora or death.

Scheme and technology for pruning thuja in autumn

Pruning should be done only in dry weather. The above-ground part can be pruned into a pyramidal, columnar or spherical shape, and the Smaragd variety is most often used for spiral and chessboard garden figures. First, a careful inspection of the crown is carried out, and a visual determination of the desired shape of the above-ground part of the conifer is carried out.

You cannot trim branches immediately after rain, as in this case there is a risk of pests and various diseases appearing on the crown. To give an arched and rectangular shape, special blanks or twine are used. All tools used for pruning must be sharp and clean.

Rules for autumn feeding of thuja

There is absolutely no need to fertilize the plant immediately after planting it in a permanent place if all the appropriate fertilizing and fertilizers have been applied to the planting hole. The best option is to fertilize in spring or summer.

In areas characterized by poor soils, plants need to be fed with complete complex fertilizers. It is not recommended to feed plants in the autumn, since in this case there is an excessive development of shoots and branches that do not have time to fully form before the winter cold. Such conifers often die in severe frosts.