Caring for ground cover roses in the fall, preparing for winter

The most popular varieties

Hello

Hello

Low (about 50 cm), spreading bush. They are distinguished by large, densely double flowers, which during flowering change color from dark red to rich cherry . The flowers are odorless, but with the richest doubleness among ground cover roses. The variety is frost-resistant, immune, blooms profusely.

Swany

Swany

The bushes are tall, 75-80 cm. The crown is spreading, up to 2 m in diameter. The Svani rose stands out for its evergreen small shiny foliage and large umbrella inflorescences . Each contains up to 20 double, white with a pink center, fragrant flowers. Winter-hardy and very decorative shrub.

Ahtiar

Standard rose Ahtiar

A tall bush with long (1.2-1.5 m) flowing arched shoots. Large double flowers are collected in inflorescences. This landscape rose is used to create borders and green hedges , and is grown in a standard culture.

Ballerina

Ballerina

Tall, up to 2 m, bush with a rounded dense crown. Winter-hardy, drought- and disease-resistant. It blooms for a long time, continuously, until the onset of frost . Simple flowers are collected in brushes. The petals are white in the center, turning pink towards the edges. During flowering, the flowers increase in size and become somewhat lighter. They have a delicate musky aroma.

Scarlet

Scarlet

One of the most hardy and adaptive varieties . The bushes are low, up to half a meter. The foliage is dark and glossy. The flowers are double, deep red. Blooms profusely all summer and autumn

Fairy

Fairy

The seedlings quickly take root, the shoots grow actively and in a short time form dense thickets up to 60 cm high. White, sometimes with a pink tint, double flowers are collected in clusters of 30-40 pieces . They bloom from July until frost.

Amber Sun

Amber Sun

Spreading branched bushes, 50-60 cm in height and width. The branches are drooping. Small semi-double fragrant flowers of all shades of yellow - from copper at the beginning of flowering to cream at the end. Valued for long flowering , cheerful decorativeness, resistance to frost and rose diseases.

Matador

Matador

Low (up to half a meter) compact bushes. Scarlet semi-double flowers are grouped in racemes. One of the earliest flowering varieties, extremely resistant to diseases and tolerant of environmental conditions . Often planted in hanging pots and containers.

Fiona

Fiona

A strong bush up to 85 cm, with long arched branches. The fragrant flowers are double, bright pink, medium-sized, collected in inflorescences . Blooms profusely from early June until frost. Winter-hardy immune variety.

Features of growing ground cover roses

These plants were identified as a separate group about 50 years ago. It combines abundantly flowering shrubs with wide creeping or slightly drooping arched shoots. Height from 40 cm to 2 m, crown width from 50 cm to 3 m .

Ground cover roses

The plants are well leafy, the leaves are medium-sized, shiny, and form a thick green crown. Small flowers, double, semi-double or simple, collected in inflorescences, elegant and elegant.

They are called carpet roses for their ability to form dense flowering coverings. They are used to create elements of landscape design and garden decor, which is why they are also called landscape.

Advantages common to ground cover roses:

• unpretentiousness, ease of care;
• frost resistance;
• immunity to diseases and pests;
• abundant long flowering;
• easy propagation by layering;
• rapid growth and acquisition of a decorative appearance;
• from 2 years they suppress weeds.

They are planted along paths, in the lower tier of flower beds, and in ridges. With their help, they create color accents on lawns, enliven gentle slopes, and decorate retaining walls and terraces . Compact varieties look great in pots and wicker baskets.

Planting and care

Planting dates and site selection

Carpet roses are planted in spring or early autumn, long before the onset of frost. In the regions of the middle zone and further north, spring planting is preferred to give the plants time to take root and strengthen.

The soil chosen is fertile, loamy, loose, well-moistened and drained.

Roses cannot tolerate stagnant soil moisture or high groundwater. A good solution is to place them on raised beds or gentle slopes.

It is necessary to provide good lighting for the rose garden . At the same time, light partial shade in the sultry afternoon hours will not hurt.

A good location for roses is on western or southeastern, non-steep slopes.

How to plant

The variety is selected taking into account its “adult” size , planned use, and placement on the site.

Spring is the most favorable time of year for planting

For a rose flower bed, dig up the entire planting area 2 shovels deep.

Before planting, you need to carefully select plant debris, weeds and their rhizomes from the soil. Subsequently, it is difficult to remove weeds from under the thorny bushes.

Prepare holes 50 cm in diameter and an average depth of 60-70 cm, but 10-20 cm more than the length of the roots of the seedling. To plant a border or hedge, dig a trench . The bottom is loosened by 25-35 cm.

The shoots are shortened, leaving 2-4 buds on each. Trim dried and damaged roots. Place the seedling in a hole and cover it with soil. Each layer of soil is watered.

The soil is compacted from above and watered abundantly again.

Care

Young bushes are watered 2 times a week, adults - 1 time every 7-10 days. Over-watering and over-drying are undesirable.

Feed three times per season:

• after the leaves appear;
• after the first wave of flowering and removal of old inflorescences;
• early autumn.

The first two times, complex mineral fertilizers are applied, the third - only phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

In spring, old unfallen leaves are removed from rose bushes and sanitary pruning is carried out.

Trim shoots in early spring:

• dried out;
• frozen;
• broken;
• sick.

Young plantings are mulched with tree bark, shavings, leaf compost, or the soil is covered with black film. These measures will prevent the development of weeds.

Mature landscape roses densely cover the soil surface and inhibit weeds.

Rules for choosing a place and landing

Rules for planting ground cover roses.

Roses with creeping shoots are considered very undemanding, but several basic factors that will be taken into account when planting a plant will allow you to achieve good bush formation and lush flowering. The development and growth of the bush is influenced by:

• light level;
• soil slope;
• ambient temperature;
• soil moisture;
• planting density;
• soil acidity.

In order for the rose to receive the required amount of light and nutrients, while simultaneously forming a large number of buds, it must be planted in such a way that in the first half of the day the bush is in the sun, and in the hottest time of the day it is shaded by other plants. Placing the bush on soil with a slope of about 10° will create a natural drainage of water, eliminating the need for drainage.

But at the same time, it is undesirable to place bushes next to other massive garden crops: they will not only take moisture and nutrition from the plant, but also unnecessarily shade it. A rose planted in the shade, near the walls of a house, etc., forms shoots without buds, is affected by diseases, becomes weak and faded.

If bushes are planted in flower beds raised 40-50 cm above the soil level, this automatically increases their frost resistance, since, according to the laws of physics, cold air accumulates in low-lying places without affecting the hills.

When planting a bush, great attention must be paid to soil moisture. Roses do not tolerate dampness well, so organizing a gravel-sand cushion in a hole intended for planting will significantly reduce the risk of death and disease.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil: loamy soil is considered optimal, creating ideal conditions for transporting oxygen, moisture and nutrients to the roots of the plant. Sandy, rocky, clayey and other heavy soils are not very suitable for planting rosaceae. You can improve the condition of the soil by adding sand, compost, peat, turf soil, rotted chicken or rabbit droppings.

The time for planting rose seedlings depends on climatic conditions: for regions with warm weather, autumn planting is preferable, for areas with cold winters - spring planting. Soil acidity should vary between 5.5 and 6.5 pH.

To prevent weed thickets from forming underneath as the plant grows, experts recommend carefully treating the entire area that the overgrown bush will occupy. The plant is planted in a hole with a depth of 50 to 70 cm. For mass planting, you can dig a trench 50 cm wide. The required depth of the hole is determined as follows: the length of the roots of the planting material + 15 cm. After planting, the seedling must be well watered. Depending on the plant variety, it is not recommended to place more than 1-3 seedlings per 1 m².

Rose propagation

Ground cover roses are easily propagated by layering.

In spring, one or more long shoots are selected. Dig into a deep groove (10 cm deep) in one or several places so that there are 1-2 buds at the bottom for the formation of roots, and 1-2 buds on top, from which shoots are formed. Secure with hooks or wooden pins and water.

Scheme of propagation of ground cover roses by layering

The soil is kept moist until autumn. For the winter, the shoots are covered with spruce branches . In spring, cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to the desired location.

Disease and pest control

Plants weakened by diseases overwinter poorly, bloom sparingly and, in the absence of human help, may even die. Therefore, you need to inspect roses from time to time.

Common diseases:

• gray rot;
• rust;
• powdery mildew;
• black spot;
• bacterial cancer.

All fungal diseases of roses can be effectively treated with fungicides. Spraying is carried out when noticing the first signs of the disease, as well as in spring and autumn for preventive purposes.

For example, with black spotting, brown or black spots with a light rim are formed on the leaves. Over time, they merge, causing the death of the leaves. Disease spores spread with the wind. For treatment, the affected bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate. Preventive treatment is carried out in April and autumn, before the onset of frost.

Bacterial cancer cannot be treated with fungicides; a sign of the disease is light growths on the root collar and roots. Over time, they grow and darken, and the rose dies. There are no chemical treatments for this disease; the diseased plant is dug up and destroyed. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to carefully select seedlings when purchasing.

Preparing for winter

To better prepare for winter and ripen shoots, stop watering and fertilizing roses in the fall.

Ground cover plants are considered winter-hardy and do not require shelter.

In the domestic climate, this is true only for the southern regions and areas with mild, snowy winters. It is advisable to protect the bushes with spruce branches or lucrasil, creating an additional air cushion.

Ground cover roses are unpretentious in care and cultivation, beginner gardeners can cope with it . They respond to care and attention with abundant flowering and delight with a riot of colors, grace, and spectacular decorativeness.

With proper care, the “queen of flowers” ​​will delight you with its blooms almost throughout the entire summer season. And for this, caring for roses for the winter is especially important.

But it happens that even in late autumn, almost before the onset of cold weather, these bushes are still blooming. This happens because most of the rose varieties grown in garden plots and park areas were obtained as a result of selection, having received many positive qualities. But there are also disadvantages, one of them is that these flowers have forgotten how to “feel” when they should plunge into a state of rest.

The gardener’s task is to prevent the bushes from blooming at the wrong time, which is why it is so important to carry out various agrotechnical measures from the first ten days of September to prepare roses for winter in the fall. How these flowering shrubs will survive winter frosts and begin to bloom next season depends on the correct implementation of these activities.

Rules for watering and fertilizing

Caring for ground cover representatives of the Rosaceae family is no different from caring for other types of roses

The main attention here needs to be paid to timely watering and fertilizing.

As a rule, bushes are watered in the morning, when the sun's rays do not touch the leaves. When the sun is hot, it is extremely undesirable to water the plants: moisture that gets on the foliage will cause burns. Foliar feeding and spraying carried out in the open sun can lead to the same result.

The queen of the garden is as negative about overwatering as she is about underwatering. Therefore, before watering, it is necessary to check the condition of the soil. If the soil layer has not yet dried to a depth of 3-4 cm, watering should be postponed. For the entire season, it is enough for ground cover roses to fertilize 3 times. The first is carried out in early spring, 2 weeks after the buds open. Fertilizers such as Tsitovit, Agricola, etc. are suitable. The second feeding is carried out after 30 days, and the third - in the fall. When feeding in autumn, only potash fertilizers are used.

Most ground cover varieties, especially low-growing and low-growing ones, do not need additional shelter for the winter, but during a winter with too little snow or severe winters, the likelihood of the bushes freezing is quite high. To reduce the risk of plant death, they can be covered with spruce branches. It is also recommended to build a simple frame from rods and cover it with lutrasil. The air layer will protect the bushes from frost. With proper care, the queen of the garden will delight you with lush flowering for many years.

Features of flower care in autumn

The main task of gardeners is that with the onset of autumn, these flowering perennials stop growing the above-ground parts. To do this, from mid-summer you should change the composition of the fertilizers applied to these flowers. But the first step in caring for roses in the fall is pruning them.

Pruning in autumn

Do you need to prune roses for the winter, and why? Beginning flower growers often ask a similar question. The answer is simple - you need to prune roses for the winter in order to make it easier to cover these flowers. This is especially true for hybrid tea and standard varieties, which can reach 1.8-2.0 m in height. It is difficult to cover such tall plants completely, so roses need to be cut by about half in the fall so that the shoots are not damaged by frost.

The need for autumn pruning and timing

As mentioned above, the main thing in pruning roses in the fall is to reduce the height of the above-ground part so that it can be safely covered for the winter. When is the best time to prune flowers in the fall, the lunar calendar will tell gardeners. Experienced flower growers recommend pruning these flowering perennials on the waning moon.

Trimming methods, step-by-step instructions and cutting diagram

When pruning in autumn, all shoots are removed by about half. How to prune roses for the winter? It is necessary to adhere to the basic rules for carrying out this agrotechnical event:

• all cuts on the shoots are made at an angle of 45 degrees;
• weak, damaged, dried shoots are removed;
• to cut branches, you must use sharp tools so as not to injure the branches;
• remove all white sprouts.

The cut areas should be treated with any antiseptic; you can use ordinary fresh wood ash. This must be done to prevent the penetration of dangerous microorganisms.

Video: how to properly prune roses for the winter.

Feeding the “queen of flowers” ​​after autumn pruning

After pruning roses in the fall, the bushes of the plant should be fed for the last time for the season. But from the moment of pruning to such feeding, at least 14-18 days must pass so that the bushes can recover after removing excess shoots.

Since all varieties are distinguished by abundant long flowering, at the end of it the bushes need to replenish their supply of nutrients. But it should be remembered that from the beginning of flowering until the end of the season, nitrogen is excluded from the fertilizer composition, which provokes active growth of the vegetative mass.

In the fall, all these flowering perennials are fertilized with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, which strengthen the root system and shoots and stop the growth of the above-ground parts.

5-7 days after fertilizing, pinch off the tops of the shoots. This will speed up the process of lignification of the stems.

The nuances of pruning for the winter

Before the onset of the cold season, shoots of the following varieties of roses should be cut in half for the winter:

• floribundas;
• hybrid tea varieties;
• miniature;
• polyanthaceae.

Climbing roses with large flowers and shrub roses are cut to 1/3 of the length of the shoots. But rose bushes with small flowers don’t need to be pruned at all; you just need to pinch their growing points.

Climbing roses are usually not pruned in the fall; if necessary, only sanitary pruning can be done.

If you follow all the rules and nuances, pruning flowers in the fall will be easy even for beginners and inexperienced gardeners.

Trimming

Creeping roses should not be radically pruned. Although in the first year the stems are shortened in order to cause tillering. It is necessary to form a bush to constantly limit the size, which is considered optimal for the variety. To prevent the occurrence of mold or fungal diseases, you need to ensure that the bush is ventilated and is sufficiently illuminated by sunlight.

Important! The shoots are cut at an angle of 45°, the distance of the cut from the nearest bud should not be less than 0.5 cm. They prune mainly those branches that are directed towards the middle of the bush and thereby thicken it greatly

If several shoots grow from one bud, the strongest one is left, the rest are removed. 5–6 years after planting, ground cover roses should be rejuvenated. Cut off all stems at a distance of 20–30 cm from the root. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish; the bush is sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate.

No matter how beautiful ground cover roses are, caring for and growing most of them is not a very labor-intensive process, which is why this variety of flowers has become popular recently. They are in high demand and look very impressive in various flowerpots and flower beds. In addition, they often decorate nondescript areas.

Creeping roses are versatile and can be grown and tied like climbing roses. Planting such plants in the center of even the best grass lawn will give it much more originality. Small ground cover roses can be bred in wide containers and placed on the site in the summer, and brought into the house in the winter, turning it into a house plant for the winter.

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Preparing roses for winter

Caring for and preparing roses for winter includes the main thing - covering the flower bushes for the winter. But garden roses have one characteristic feature - with the onset of cold weather, sap flow in the aboveground part completely stops, but if warming begins and the air temperature rises above 0, the roses “wake up”, sap begins to move along the stems, and the bush prepares to bloom.

And when cold weather sets in again, the sap in the stems freezes, the resulting ice breaks the stems, and microorganisms penetrate into the breaks, which can cause disease.

But if you let the sap dry quickly and the cracks heal, then such a situation can be avoided. But most experienced flower growers try to prevent such a situation and promptly prepare flower beds with “flower queens” for winter. That's why preparing roses for winter is so important.

And in the fall, you should worry about creating a shelter for these shrubs that would be dry and would not experience fluctuations in ambient temperature.

Video: preparing roses for winter.

How to cover roses correctly

To properly cover roses for the winter, many gardeners, as a rule, use two main methods:

• phased;
• air-dry.

Step-by-step method of shelter

A step-by-step method of covering roses for winter begins with their preparation:

• First, in the third ten days of October, you should remove all the foliage remaining on the shoots.
• The lower parts of the stems and the ground around the bushes should be treated with a 3% solution of copper sulfate (or a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture).
• The soil around the bush should be covered with a thick layer of sand (up to 15 cm thick). This measure will protect the root system of flowers from a sudden cold snap.

But the above-ground part of the plant is not yet covered during this period, when the air temperature has already dropped to 0. Although the plant is already practically at rest, useful substances are deposited in its stems, which the shrub will need in the spring with the onset of long-awaited warmth. This process can only take place under the influence of sunlight (even if it is not very warm), so it is necessary not to cover the rose shoots for as long as possible.

In November, when the thermometer drops below 0, roses begin the next stage of preparation for winter - most of the moisture from the stems disappears, and the starch stored in advance breaks down into natural sugars. It is they who will protect the above-ground part of the plant from the approaching cold.

At this stage, the shoots no longer require sunlight, and a strong cold snap can begin at any moment, so it is right to start covering the above-ground part of the roses for the winter. All remaining foliage is removed, the shoots are cut off by about half, they are treated with any pesticides for preventive purposes, and only then they are covered with any insulating material.

What is the best way to cover roses for the winter? Experts recommend using high peat as a covering material - it has a high moisture capacity, so it can freeze quickly, but thaws slowly. Therefore, the temperature inside such a shelter will be almost constant during the winter. And over the next season, this shelter will serve as additional fertilizer for the flowers.

To prevent this covering material from being blown away by strong gusts of wind during the winter, specially prepared wooden shields (or spruce branches) are usually placed on top. Spruce or pine branches are also excellent protection for this perennial from small rodents (in particular, mice).

Air dry method

An air-dry shelter is a frame made of metal pipes, fittings, and wooden blocks about half a meter high. The main condition for such a structure is its strength, because in winter it must withstand the weight of snow, as well as strong gusts of wind.

Before the weather gets cold, you should remove all the foliage from the bottom of the rose bushes, treat the shoots and soil with copper sulfate and dig up the tree trunk. All shoots should be tied, bent to the ground and secured with special staples. If the stems no longer bend, then they need to be cut off, leaving shoots up to 0.4 m long.

When the first frosts arrive, all foliage is removed, as well as unripe stems. The frames are covered with any covering material, leaving the ends free. When frosty weather sets in, you should close them too. A film must be placed on top of the covering material, which will protect the bushes from snow or other moisture getting inside. Bricks or boards are placed on the edges of the polyethylene below.

The second method of covering bushes is not suitable if the bushes grow on too wet soils - in this case, moisture will collect inside the shelter, which is very harmful for these flowers.

Video: how to properly cover roses for the winter.

Features of shelter for the winter

Climbing roses are not subjected to pruning. They are removed from the supports, the leaves are stripped, and treated with any fungicidal preparation. A sheet of roofing material is placed under the lashes to eliminate the possibility of the shoots rotting; they are covered with sand (or earth) on top. When the time of frost comes, the top of this variety of roses is covered with roofing material, securing the edges so that it does not blow away with the wind.

The remaining varieties of roses must be pruned in the fall (by about half) before covering for the winter.

Video: how to cover a climbing rose for the winter.

How to properly care for roses in autumn: procedures and rules

Novice flower growers and gardeners will probably ask: what should you do with roses in the fall? As part of the proper cultivation of flower crops, we can highlight a number of autumn care measures that they need for normal preparation for winter.

Correct mode of watering and loosening

In autumn it is very important to maintain the correct watering regime. From the beginning of the autumn period, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering, completely stopping . If you do not stop adding moisture, the bush will be weak and will not be able to fully prepare for winter.

Important! If the season turns out to be rainy, it is recommended to cover the bushes with film to avoid waterlogging, which can lead to the development of fungal diseases and rot. But the film should not completely cover the plants like a greenhouse!

In addition to adding moisture, you need to stop loosening the soil in the tree trunk circle of the bush. Loosening in the autumn can provoke the awakening of dormant buds, which means that they can easily freeze out during frosts.

Top dressing

Feeding roses is a fundamental element of plant care in the fall. It helps them regain strength, be saturated with useful elements, and in addition, the procedure increases the frost resistance of the flower crop.

What is the best way to feed roses in the fall? During this period, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers . And under no circumstances should nitrogen be used! For example, mineral fertilizers such as superphosphate, potassium monophosphate, potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) are suitable.

Trimming

Pruning is done just before the shelter at the first frost . For the procedure, you must use a sharp, disinfected pruner.

Advice! The bushes of this flower crop have unpleasant, sharp thorns, so it is necessary to carry out the activity with thick gloves, a jacket or sweater with long tight sleeves.

The procedure is carried out according to the following scheme:

• Remove any stems that had flower buds on them.

• Remove all unripe shoots.
• Sanitary pruning is necessary: ​​all shoots that are damaged, affected by diseases or pests are eliminated, and dead shoots are cut back to healthy white tissue.
• It is necessary to cut off the weakest and thinnest shoots, as well as those shoots that thicken the bush.
• Along with pruning, all leaves should be removed.
• Now the cut areas should be treated with a disinfectant putty, for example, garden pitch, coal or a special product.

Important! In this case, it is necessary to cut at an angle of 45 degrees . There should be a distance of about 0.5 centimeters from the cut to the bud. The last bud next to the cut should be on the outside !

All plant residues after the care procedure should be burned. Under no circumstances should they be left under the bush, as they can become a source of pests and pathogens.

Preventive treatment of roses against diseases and pests

An important point of care is the eradicating autumn treatment of roses. It is performed for the purpose of disease prevention. If this is not done, then in winter, under cover, pathogens and pathogenic microorganisms can begin to actively multiply, and in the spring cause great harm to the bushes.

Roses should be treated preventatively in the fall after pruning and before covering. To spray bushes, it is effective to use preparations containing copper (Copper, Bordeaux mixture, Hom, Oxyhom), or treat with other fungicides, for example, Topaz, Skor.

Important! When carrying out processing in the fall, it is necessary to follow safety precautions and use personal protective equipment (gloves, respirator, goggles, apron). In addition, dilute the fungicide solution and spray it strictly according to the instructions for the drug.

Features of preparing roses for winter

The nuances of preparing the “queen of flowers” ​​for the cold period do not differ too much in different regions of our country. Some of them should be mentioned below.

• The main difference between preparing rose bushes in central Russia (in the Moscow region) is that they begin to cover roses for the winter at slightly different times. Since cold weather in the region usually begins in the first ten days of December, roses are prepared for winter and final shelter in the middle zone is carried out at this time.
• In the Urals, frosts begin much earlier - already in the first or second ten days of October. Therefore, all agrotechnical measures for caring for these perennials and preparing roses for winter in the Urals are being shifted to the end of August and beginning of September. And the final covering of roses is carried out in early October.
• In Siberia, frosts can come late, so gardeners should carefully monitor the weather forecast to prevent the bushes from freezing or becoming warm. In addition, in this region the snow falls almost immediately and remains almost until spring and does not melt. Therefore, snow covers roses in winter in Siberia and prevents them from freezing.

The complex of agrotechnical measures for preparing rose bushes for winter is not too complicated, so even novice gardeners can cope with it after appropriate preparation. The main thing is to follow all the rules, and then you will be able to preserve roses in winter without any problems. And the “queen of flowers” ​​will delight you with its blooms for more than one season.

One can only be amazed at the variety of garden roses. One of the most unusual species can be called ground cover roses. Their main advantage is their rapid growth in width, because even in a short period of time they can cover an area with a fragrant carpet. Despite the small size of the flowers, lush inflorescences and almost continuous flowering throughout the season will provide the necessary decorative effect. Proper planting of ground cover roses will provide the necessary conditions for further development, and their unpretentiousness and visual appeal make these flowers favorites of gardeners.

Pruning roses by type

All roses are conventionally divided into four groups depending on on which shoots the flower buds are formed. An individual pruning system is applied to each group.

Classification of roses by type of pruning:

1. Hybrid tea, miniature, polyanthus, patio and hybrid roses;
2. Climbing (ramblers), some large-flowered, for example, Flamentanz;
3. Park, large-flowered climbing and shrubby species (shrubs);
4. Ground cover, landscape roses.

On rose bushes included in the first group , flower buds form on the shoots of the current year, so they can be trimmed in the fall: for tall species, about 30 cm is left above the soil, and for miniature ones, about 15 cm. These types of roses are quite heat-loving, and, thanks to their short pruning, they are easy to cover for the winter.

Pruning hybrid tea roses

Pruning floribunda roses

Advice. It is important to follow the deadlines for autumn pruning of floribunda, polyantha and hybrid tea roses and not to do it too early. Premature shortening of shoots stimulates the awakening of the buds.

In roses belonging to the second group (ramblers and flamentans), flower buds are formed on the shoots of the second year. In this regard, the vines that have grown during the current growing season are not cut off at all or are only slightly shortened so that there are no difficulties with shelter. The main part of pruning is carried out in the spring, when you can assess the condition of the bush after wintering. In the fall, 3-year-old lashes are completely removed, and 2-year-old ones are partially removed.

Rose scrubs

Most park roses, bush scrubs and large-flowered climbing roses tolerate frosty winters without shelter and require little or no pruning in the fall. It is not carried out for the reason that flowers are formed on almost all shoots (annual, last year and old) so they need to be preserved. To maintain the decorative appearance of the bush, old and broken branches are cut out, and the longest lashes are slightly shortened.

Ground cover roses

Ground cover roses also do not need autumn pruning. The exception is overgrown plants, the lashes of which have gone beyond the territory allotted to them and violated the design of the garden. Plantings that are too thick can be thinned out for better aeration. All the main work on shortening the shoots is planned for the spring months.

Pruning ground cover roses

Basic requirements for the landing site

The growing conditions for roses are almost the same for all varieties. It should be in a well-lit, open area, away from tall buildings and trees. For planting creeping roses, it is advisable to provide a slight elevation, which will protect the plant from stagnation of melt water in the spring. Many varieties of ground cover roses have rather long branches, up to two meters. They can be used to decorate verandas and gazebos like weaving varieties. These varieties also look attractive in flowerpots, among compositions of stones and other architectural delights.

The future landing site must meet the following requirements:

• Good soil aeration.
• Light shading during sunny periods.
• Western or southeastern direction.
• Enough space for further growth.

It is preferable to plant roses on black soil or light loams. Too loose sandstones do not retain moisture and nutrients well, so it is recommended to add some clay to them. For heavy soils, it is best to use peat and humus as an additional ingredient.

Preparation and landing

It is advisable to carry out preparatory activities at least a month before planting the roses. The soil must be dug up, all weeds and their rhizomes must be selected, and also fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen. The composition of the soil should be loose and nutritious, the reaction of the environment should be from 5.5 to 6.5 pH. To alkalize acidic soil, dolomite flour or fluff lime is used. If the reaction is alkaline, superphosphates are added to the soil.

It is best to plant ground cover roses in spring or autumn. For harsh climates, spring planting will provide more benefits so that the plant can take root properly before next winter. If the climate is mild and winters are not so cold, ground cover roses are planted in the fall.

How to land:

1. The size of the hole is determined by the root system of the seedling. When planting roses in a container, you need to leave a margin of 8-10 centimeters on each side. For plants with an open root system, a space of 40x40 centimeters is usually prepared.
2. The top layer of fertile soil from the hole is mixed with humus, peat and mineral fertilizers.
3. The seedling is placed vertically in the hole. The soil surface should be at the level of the root bud. For container seedlings, you can use the top edge of the soil in the pot as a guide.
4. The hole is filled with pre-prepared soil mixture, compacting it tightly at the roots. It is allowed to spill water on the ground so that there are no air voids inside.
5. After planting, the plant is well watered, the top layer of soil is mulched with straw, dry grass or peat. This is a mandatory condition, because with further growth of the shoots it will be difficult to care for the root area, and this will protect the plantings from weeds.

Before planting a rose from a container, be sure to water it well so that the earthen ball does not disintegrate. This will prevent injury to the roots and increase the chances of successful rooting. It is better to soak seedlings with an open root system in a stimulating solution for a day. Ground cover roses are planted directly from water, preventing the root shoots from drying out.

Landing rules

Planting ground cover roses and caring for them is not a difficult matter, but if the bushes are planted incorrectly, it is almost impossible to wait for abundant flowering and good growth, even if you purchase high-quality planting material and good soil. Beginning gardeners need to know the rules of planting so that the flower garden looks well-groomed and elegant.

Choosing and organizing a place

Choosing a place to plant bushes is a responsible matter, so you need to take this seriously. Roses are light-loving, so planting in shaded areas of the garden is not recommended, but direct exposure to sunlight can severely burn delicate flowers and they will wither and die. It should be planted on the western or southeastern side of the front garden; the sun shines there only in the first half of the day, and afternoon shading will be a good protection from the midday heat.

Soil and landing

The soil for planting is prepared in the fall.
The site is dug up, weed roots and other debris are removed, and humus is added. Plants prefer a slightly acidic soil reaction within the range of 5.56.5 pH; when acidic, lime or dolomite flour is added. If for some reason the soil was not prepared for spring planting in the fall, you can do this 6 weeks before planting the roses, then the soil will have time to sag. Landing. Plants are planted in holes about 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. When planting several plants in a row, it is advisable to dig a trench of the same width and depth as the planting hole

It is important, when filling the hole, to water the soil layer by layer to prevent the formation of voids, and after planting, compact the soil and water the seedlings generously. After the shoots grow to 5 cm, the soil must be mulched and mulched.

Depending on the type per 1 sq. per meter, it is recommended to plant from 1 to 3 bushes.

Adonis flower: growing, care and use of the plant

Container types of roses are planted at any time, bushes with an open root system - in spring and autumn. In the northern regions they are planted from April to June, in the south - in late autumn.

Best care tips

Ground cover roses are less demanding than other varieties. This gives a good chance to grow luxurious flowers even for gardening beginners. At the same time, long-term flowering and active growth of bushes can be achieved only if all the “whims” of the garden beauty are fulfilled. To do this, you need to know what conditions are necessary for this plant, as well as useful nuances for successful cultivation.

Secrets of success for ground cover roses:

• Fertilizing should only be done the next year after planting. The frequency of adding minerals is determined individually. In general, 5-7 feedings must be used per season. Ground cover roses are also very susceptible to foliar feeding, which can be alternated with conventional ones.
• In early spring, the bushes are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. For this, rotted manure, humus or ammonium nitrate is used. Before fertilizing, the plant is well watered.
• Before the formation of buds, sodium humate or potassium sulfate is added. This will give the plant the necessary strength to bloom. During flowering, fertilizers are not applied, this can damage the bush. After flowering, it is necessary to remove old buds from the plant, and then feed it well with potassium and phosphorus complexes. Re-blooming varieties need to use at least two feedings with a break of 10 days.
• At the end of the season, fertilize three times, the main purpose of which is to give the plant an additional margin of safety for a successful winter. At the end of summer, organic matter is used, after two weeks - phosphorus complexes, after another two - potassium. It is important to finish feeding about a month before the onset of real frost, so the timing can be determined by your climatic region.
• Roses are also pruned the next year after planting. This stimulates the formation of side shoots and the creation of an attractive bush shape. The cutting areas must be treated with garden varnish, and the bush itself must be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to prevent infection of the branches.
• Approximately once every five years it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning of the bush. To do this, all shoots are shortened to 20-25 centimeters, and the middle of the bush is thinned out. The disadvantage is the loss of decorativeness, but the next season the plant will thank the owner with lush flowering and active growth.
• Watering garden roses must be done with plenty of pre-settled water. On average, each bush will need 10 liters of water. At the same time, waterlogging is not allowed, as a result of which the plant can rot and become sick.
• Loosening the bush is desirable, but difficult to do for old plants. The root area must be mulched and cared for whenever possible. It is more advisable to simply spray and water heavily overgrown bushes, and loosen them when pruning or fertilizing.

The video below will tell you a lot of useful information about growing ground cover roses.

How to prune correctly

In order for the procedure to bring only a positive effect, you must strictly adhere to the following rules.

• Pruning is performed with sharply sharpened pruning shears. A blunt instrument does not cut, but makes lacerations and damages the plant bark, which takes a long time to heal after such treatment or may die from infection.
• To remove thick stems, the diameter of which exceeds two centimeters, it is better to use a hacksaw.
• The cut is made above the swollen bud that has not had time to germinate, at a distance of one centimeter from it. The shoot is pruned to a white, healthy layer of wood.
• The cut itself is made at an angle so that the damaged area does not accumulate moisture, along with which the plant can become infected.

Autumn pruning is carried out on a calm, sunny day, most often this is done at the end of October.

Pruning roses using pruning shears.

Before carrying out the procedure, it is advisable to disinfect instruments; untreated surfaces can serve as a source of infection and fungi. Treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate is sufficient; the cut areas are covered with garden varnish.

The most important rule that should guide not only a doctor, but also a gardener is “do no harm.” The volume of the root system of a rose bush, like any other crop, should be proportional to the volume of the above-ground part. Pruning must be done carefully and competently so that the nutritional system is not disrupted, damage to which can lead not only to illness, but also to the death of the rose.

Shelter for the winter

An important condition for the safety of planted ground cover roses is preparation for winter and reliable protection from frost. Many varieties of ground cover roses overwinter safely without additional shelter, but in the event of unfavorable weather conditions the plant may freeze, which will lead to poor development and even death of the bush. To prevent this from happening, experienced gardeners recommend covering the rose with ground cover for the winter.

It's quite simple to do this:

1. Low-growing varieties are covered with spruce branches and dry branches and covered with thick fabric or lutrasil on top. You can build an air shelter from a metal frame frame and agrofibre.
2. Medium-height branches are loosely tied in a vertical position and wrapped with a tarpaulin or other suitable fabric. The root area is covered with sawdust.
3. Tall varieties are laid on the ground, with previously thrown branches and spruce branches. This will help protect the branches from rotting. An air shelter is constructed on top.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter after the first frost, because in warm weather the plant can die and rot. If warming occurs, the shelter is ventilated during the day. Leaves are removed from the bush in advance and sanitary pruning of branches is carried out. It is also recommended to trim thin and weak branches, which, if killed by cold weather, can be a source of infection of the entire bush. The cover is removed in early spring, after which it is necessary to assess the condition of the bush, remove frozen shoots, spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture and feed it.

The ground cover rose, the planting and care of which in open ground are discussed in our article, is unpretentious, but can decorate any area. They are often used in landscape design to “fill in” empty areas, as well as in the design of garden compositions. Proper care and reliable shelter for the winter will ensure the plant a long life and beautiful flowering.

It's no secret that these flowers need to be protected from frost. If you don’t know how to do this and you’ve decided to plant a rose garden for the first time, then this article is for you. We'll talk about

how to cover roses for the winter, what needs to be done first, why this is necessary. We will also talk about taking cuttings and planting new bushes.

All about the dacha

Beautiful plants decorate many plots, gardens and parks. Watching the fragrant buds bloom is an unforgettable pleasure. Breeders annually offer new varieties for cultivation, differing both in shape, size and color. In order for plants to please their owners for a long time, they need to be pruned regularly; this is a mandatory procedure in preparation for not the easiest season - winter.

Shelter for the winter and pruning

To properly prepare your rose garden for the cold, you need to complete all the steps described below.

• The flowers should form an additional layer of wood. To do this, you need to reduce their watering and stop frequently loosening the soil. If autumn began not with “Indian summer”, but with heavy rains, then the rose garden must be covered. To do this, make a frame over the bushes and cover it with film. Be sure to leave an outlet so that moisture does not accumulate, the flowers can breathe and do not rot.

• The next thing to do is trim off all new shoots. This will help the roses ripen faster.

• All buds that have faded and are forming anew must also be removed. The flower should not waste its energy on them.

• The end of September is the time to hill up the bushes. Peat is used for this, compost is suitable. Hilling height 7-10 cm.

So, the initial preparation stage is done. Next, let's talk about how to preserve roses in winter. After all, the climate in our country is quite harsh. Therefore, in order for the delicate flower not to freeze, it must be properly covered and pre-cut.

How to prune roses for the winter?

There are three ways.

1. Long. When pruning, the entire bush remains, only the tops are cut off. This method is used for Bengal roses.
2. Average. The stems are cut in half. Hybrid tea varieties are pruned. 5-6 buds are left on the stems.
3. Short. The bush is cut by a third, leaving only 2-3 buds on the shoot. This method is used for those roses that grow strongly.

There is nothing complicated about pruning.

• You will need to remove all shoots that have not yet matured.
• You also need to rid roses of dry and old branches.
• Then proceed to trimming the formed shoots. There are some nuances here. Only the young tops of a climbing rose are cut off, after which it is removed from the support. As mentioned earlier, hybrid tea varieties are cut in half. All others (ground cover, miniature species, floribunda) are cut to a third of the length.

Basic types of pruning

When carrying out the procedure for removing excess branches, it is necessary to take into account varietal characteristics. The type of pruning depends on the size and intensity of growth.

Short trim

The method is applicable for polyanthus roses, their branches are prone to strong growth and tillering. After the procedure, only the base of the bush with two or three dormant buds should remain. For other varieties, such pruning is applicable only as a last resort.

Medium trim

The moderate method rids the plant of weak shoots and activates the growth of new, strong shoots. When performing medium pruning, the stems are shortened by half, shoots with four to five buds remain at the base of the bush, the height of the plant is up to 30 cm. The method is applicable for hybrid tea varieties, with the exception of park and English roses, ancient and specific garden beauties of this family.

Long trim

After the procedure, tall shoots with 8–10 buds remain at the base of the bush. Gentle pruning is applicable for ancient and species roses, Bengal roses, English roses, park roses, and vigorous hybrid tea roses. If you apply this method to other varieties, you can achieve early flowering. Constant long pruning for several years in a row can lead to loss of shape and elongation of roses, flowering will become less abundant.

When to prune roses for winter?

This must be done before frost sets in. For most regions of our country, this is the end of October. For colder places - late September, early October. In the southern regions it is possible later.

Many people wonder whether it is necessary to prune roses for the winter? It is difficult to answer this question unequivocally. The fact is that not every variety needs to be pruned. For climbing roses, only the tops need to be removed. In turn, park trees do not need to be trimmed. But, if the flowers are covered for the winter, they will have to be shortened.

Pros and cons of autumn pruning roses

Benefits of autumn pruning:

• It is more convenient to cover a trimmed plant for the winter.
• The plant accumulates nutrients that will help it develop in the spring.
• The growth of new shoots is increasing.
• The root system develops better.
• The number of flower stalks increases.
• Plants are better protected from infections and fungi.

The downside of autumn pruning is stimulating the growth of dormant buds if the average temperature at night rises to above zero. Buds that develop will not survive subsequent frosts. This threatens illness and death of the escape.

How to properly cover roses for the winter?

All the preliminary steps have been completed, now it’s time to move on to the most important thing - the shelter. You can't go anywhere without him. The climate of our country has a detrimental effect on capricious roses during the cold season.

Sheltering roses for the winter in the Moscow region and in other regions with moderate temperatures occurs at the time of the onset of frost.

Important point!

Light frosts from 0 to -2 degrees will not harm roses, but, on the contrary, will be beneficial. This will make them stronger. But at -5 degrees it is already necessary to provide shelter.

Therefore, as soon as the frosty weather has settled, it’s time to get started. There is nothing complicated here either.

1. Before covering the roses, they must be covered with 25-30 cm of soil mixed with sand. Take proportions 1:1.
2. Next, build the frame. You can make it from scrap materials. The frame should stand above each bush, slightly rising above the top.
3. Wrap the structure on top with non-woven material. Be sure to leave an outlet.
4. Cover the fabric with film, not forgetting about ventilation.
5. Then wrap the entire structure with synthetic rope.

Important point!

Covering and hilling roses should only be done in dry weather.

The climbing rose is removed from the support and tied with synthetic rope, not too tightly. Then they wrap it with cloth and film. Next, they are placed on a flooring of spruce branches.

Timing of pruning

Pruning should be done before covering the roses before the onset of severe cold, preferably on a dry, sunny day. Pruning period: mid-October - mid-November, but the deadline may be shifted depending on the region. Roses are pruned based on the night temperature. It must drop steadily to -5°C, otherwise pruning will provoke awakening.

The correct cut of a rose shoot

How to prepare cuttings?

This is also done in the fall.

• For a rose bush, select annual but well-developed shoots.
• Cut them and cut them into cuttings 20-25 cm long. The lower cut should be immediately under the bud, the upper one between them.
• Next, make bunches from the cuttings. Wrap it in cloth and store it in damp sand. The temperature should be +1 degree.

So we answered the question of how to prepare roses for winter.

Don’t miss any of the stages, then the rose garden will delight you with beautiful flowers next year.