Climbing roses include types of rose hips, as well as several varieties of garden roses that branch with fairly long stems. They are directly related to the rosehip genus. And these plants are extremely popular in vertical gardening of various structures, buildings and walls, as well as gazebos. Such flowers can decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, arbors, pyramids, garlands, and arches. They also go well with other plants, which is why their popularity is no less than that of indoor or bush roses.
Features of climbing roses
There is no general description for this type of plant, because they have many different shapes and varieties. However, there is a classification of climbing roses, which has been adopted in international floriculture practice.
Roses in the Garden. episode 11. Climbing roses 1
First group
Such plants are called climbing roses or rambler roses. These flowers have long flexible shoots that are arched or creeping. They are painted in a rich green color, and there are spikes on their surface. They can reach more than 500 centimeters in length. The glossy leathery leaves are small in size. Flowers can be double, semi-double or single; their diameter, as a rule, does not exceed 25 millimeters. They have a fairly weak aroma. Flowers are part of inflorescences that are located along the entire length of the stems. The flowering of such plants is quite abundant, and it lasts a little longer than 4 weeks. Flowering is observed in the first half of summer. A very large number of varieties are frost-resistant and such plants are able to overwinter normally even under relatively light cover. This plant was born thanks to such species as: multi-flowered rose (multiflora) and Vihura rose.
Second group
Climber or large-flowered climbing roses (climbers) were bred by breeders by crossing groups of rambler roses with hybrid tea, tea, remontant roses, as well as floribunda roses. The length of the stems of such climbing roses can reach 400 cm. The flowers are quite large (diameter more than 4 centimeters), and they are part of small, loose inflorescences. Flowering is abundant. A large number of varieties bloom twice during the season. The flowers have a shape similar to hybrid tea roses. These flowers are relatively frost-resistant and resistant to powdery mildew.
Third group
Climbings were formed by large-flowered mutating bush roses, namely: grandiflora, hybrid tea, and floribunda. The difference between such plants and producing species is that they have even more powerful growth and very large flowers (diameter from 4 to 11 centimeters), while they can be either single or part of not very large inflorescences. They also differ in fruiting, which occurs at a later date. Most varieties are characterized by repeated flowering. These plants are cultivated only in the southern regions of the temperate zone, where the winter period is relatively warm and mild.
Support
The climbing rose definitely needs support. Their diversity is amazing. For these purposes, both a specially purchased structure and improvised items are suitable. For example, it could be an old tree on the site, a fence. You can order a support for climbing roses of various shapes and designs. This could be an arch or lattice, which will be made of metal, wood or plastic. The last option is the most preferable. Polymers are resistant to adverse environmental influences.
However, you should not choose a gray, faceless wall as a support. Even these beautiful plants will not be able to improve the appearance of an old utility shed for equipment. It is better to purchase a support for them separately.
It is worth noting that when the branches are fixed in a horizontal plane, flowers will appear along the entire length of the shoots. If you fix them in a vertical position, the buds will appear only in their upper part.
To secure the branches, you need to use twine made of polymer materials. Never use wire for these purposes, even if it is wrapped in cloth or paper. The supporting structure should be at least 50 cm away from the rose.
Planting climbing roses in open ground
How to properly plant and care for a climbing rose
Optimal time and place for landing
Absolutely all types of such plants have a very capricious character. The same applies to climbing roses. To plant and care for such a plant, you need to adhere to certain rules. You should also take into account the advice of experienced gardeners on cultivating climbing roses. The choice of a site for planting must be approached with all responsibility. Such plants simply need an area that will be illuminated by the sun from morning until lunch. In this case, the dew on the plant will be able to dry, which will help avoid the appearance of fungal diseases. At lunchtime, when the sun's rays are most scorching, this area should be shaded, otherwise burns may appear on the surface of the foliage and petals. Also, a suitable site should have protection from winds from the northeast and north, because it is quite cold. It is not recommended to decorate the corners of buildings with climbing roses. The fact is that the draft present there can destroy a delicate plant. To plant such flowers, experts advise choosing a site on the south side of the building. In order to plant climbing roses, you will need a strip of soil only half a meter wide, but you should take into account that any structure, building or plant should be located at a distance of approximately 50–100 centimeters from such a flower.
Suitable soil must be well drained. If, in the place chosen for planting, the groundwater is located very close to the surface, these plants are planted on a special, previously prepared elevation. The roots of this type of roses in some cases can go deep into the ground up to 200 centimeters. In order to prevent stagnation of liquid in the root system, the selected area should be located at least at a not very large slope. Loam is considered an ideal option for planting climbing roses. If the soil is sandy, then it must be corrected before planting by adding clay when digging, and sand must be added to clayey soil. Such plants need soil saturated with nutrients, so the addition of humus or humus is mandatory. You should also add bone meal to the soil, which is considered an excellent source of phosphorus. Soil preparation must be done in advance. Ideally, this should be done 6 months before planting, but preparation can also be done 4 weeks before planting the rose.
In temperate climates, climbing roses are recommended to be planted at the end of September and until mid-October. Planting can also be done in spring. It can be carried out from the second half of April until the last days of May.
Autumn planting
When planning to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the best quality planting material. Nowadays, you can purchase rose seedlings that are rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto rose hips. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the rose hips, and on it there is a scion belonging to the varietal climbing rose. In this regard, planting and caring for a rooted rose should be somewhat different than a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting so that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that rosehip is a deciduous plant, and a grafted rose is an evergreen. If planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the rootstock and scion can lead to the death of the cultivated part of the plant.
Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After this, you should tear off all the leaves and cut off, using pruners, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also trim the root system and above-ground parts, leaving 30 centimeters each. The cut areas should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then you must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).
The hole for planting roses should have dimensions of 50x50. In this case, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be maintained between the planting holes. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the hole being dug and combined with ½ part of a bucket of manure. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure must be carried out a day or two before the plant is supposed to be planted. On the day you are planning to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to treat the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, you need to dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water. Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. A mixture of soil and manure should be poured into the hole in a mound. Then you need to place the seedling in the hole, carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and thoroughly compact the soil surface. Do not forget that the place where the graft is located must be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. In this case, the root collar of a self-rooted seedling must be buried 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant must be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.
Spring planting
Roses planted in autumn are faster in development than those planted in open ground in spring. At the same time, the latter need special increased attention to themselves. Before planting seedlings, their root system should be trimmed to 30 centimeters, and the stems should be shortened to 15–20 centimeters. When the plant is planted, it needs to be watered well and hilled high. Then it should be covered with a transparent film on top, creating something similar to a mini-greenhouse. In these greenhouse conditions, the rose will take root relatively faster. Do not forget to ventilate the seedling every day; to do this, you need to raise the shelter for a few minutes. Experts advise ventilation to be carried out longer and longer each time, so the rose will also be hardened. After the threat of night frosts has passed, it will be possible to remove the cover completely and add a layer of mulch to the surface of the soil in the hole. If the seedlings were planted at a time when the weather was warm and dry, then the surface of the holes will need to be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (peat or other).
Seeds
Have you thought about planting climbing roses in open ground? Then you should familiarize yourself with information about the methods by which this plant is propagated. If you want to get it from seeds, you need to buy planting material in the store. They are placed in a sieve, which is lowered into a bowl. You need to pour hydrogen peroxide into it. This allows the seeds to be disinfected. During stratification, the likelihood of mold appearing will be much lower.
After this, you need to moisten a cotton pad with hydrogen peroxide. Prepared seeds are placed on it. They are covered with a second, equally impregnated disk. Each pair must be placed in a separate plastic bag. You need to write on them the name of the variety and the date. You need to transfer all the bags into a separate container and place it in the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.
Check the condition of the seeds. If you notice mold, treat the seed again with hydrogen peroxide. Use new cotton pads for this.
After one and a half or even two months, the seeds will germinate. They need to be transferred to individual peat tablets or miniature pots. The surface should be mulched with a small layer of perlite. Seedlings should be in a lighted place for 10 hours a day. After two months, the first buds will appear on the plants. After another month they will bloom. Climbing rose seedlings need proper watering. The soil is moistened as it dries.
When to plant climbing roses grown from seeds? This needs to be done in the spring. Consider the characteristics of your climate. The warmer it is, the sooner this can be done.
Caring for climbing roses in the open ground
CLIMBING ROSE. Care BEFORE, AFTER and DURING flowering. WATERING and FEEDING
How to properly care
In order for a climbing rose to grow and develop normally, you need to learn how to properly water, feed, and prune the plant. You also need to monitor the health of the rose and destroy pests in a timely manner. It is very important to learn how to properly prepare bushes for wintering. This type of rose needs reliable support. These plants can easily tolerate drought, and therefore should not be watered abundantly. As a rule, they are watered once every 7 days or ten days; 10–20 liters of water should be poured onto 1 bush. Remember that it is better to water more often, but less. To retain water in the hole, it is recommended to build a not very low shaft of soil around it. When 2–3 days have passed since watering, it will be necessary to loosen the soil surface of the tree trunk circle to a depth of 5 to 6 centimeters. This will help retain moisture in the soil and also improve air access to the root system. In order to reduce the number of waterings and virtually eliminate soil loosening, you need to cover its surface with a layer of mulch.
Young plants do not need to fertilize the soil until the end of the summer, since there is a large amount of nutrients in the soil from the moment of planting. At the end of summer, the plant should be fed with a solution of potassium fertilizers, this will help the rose prepare for the winter period. In this case, it is recommended to use an infusion prepared with wood ash as a top dressing. In the second year of life, such plants need to add mineral and organic fertilizers to the soil, and they should be alternated. And roses of the third and subsequent years of life should be fed only with organic fertilizers. So, a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp is perfect for this. wood ash. If desired, you can use another organic fertilizer instead of manure. During the period of intensive growth, climbing roses must be fed 5 times, but it must be taken into account that during the flowering period, fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil.
Support for climbing roses
Support for climbing roses. Accent in the flower garden
There are a huge number of different supports for this type of rose. So, as a support you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or lattice, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. It is necessary to fix guides on the surface of the wall, to which the plant shoots or lattice will cling. But we must not forget that if the stems are positioned horizontally, the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.
In order to fix the stems on the support, you need to use plastic twine. It is prohibited to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be secured to the support securely, but so that the fastening material does not damage it. It is necessary to systematically inspect plants for the integrity of fastening materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig the support into the ground.
Transplanting climbing roses
How to transplant a rose correctly
An adult rose may need to be replanted only when it becomes clear that the place where it grows is completely unsuitable for it. Transplantation is carried out in the autumn in September or early November; this should not be done later, since the bush will not have time to take root before the beginning of the winter period. In some cases, the plant is replanted in the spring, but this must be done before the buds awaken. Plants must be removed from the supporting structure. Young shoots of ramblers are not removed, but their tops are pinched in the last days of August, which will help them become woody faster. Stems older than 2 years are pruned. All long stems must be shortened by ½ part at climbers and climbers. After this, the bushes must be carefully dug in a circle, while moving away from its center to a distance equal to 2 bayonet shovels. We must remember that the roots go deep into the soil, and you need to try to dig them out completely, while causing them as little damage as possible. The soil should be shaken off the roots, and then they should be inspected. Using pruning shears, cut off shaggy and damaged root tips. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and be sure to straighten the roots. Then fill the hole with soil and compact its surface thoroughly. Water the plant well. A few days after transplanting, you need to add the required amount of soil in order to level the surface of the tree trunk circle. At the same time, you need to hill up the rose.
Diseases and pests
Aphids and spider mites can live on climbing roses. In the case where there are not very many aphids on the plant, it is recommended to try to get rid of them using folk remedies. So, you can remove insects from the plant manually. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Don't forget to wear gloves. But this method can only be used at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then removing them manually will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soap solution. The soap should be crushed using a grater, poured into a container, where water should be poured. Let the solution sit as soap takes time to dissolve. Strain it and treat the plant with a sprayer. If after treatment the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, which should have o. For processing in this case, you need to choose a calm, sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a hot, dry period, and only when the plant is watered very rarely. Such insects live on the underside of leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin web. An infected rose's leaves turn green-silver. Very often, to destroy such ticks, an infusion prepared with wormwood, shag, yarrow or tobacco is used. 3 days after treatment with this infusion, 80 to 100 percent of the pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, you need to pour 500 g of freshly picked wormwood into a wooden container. You need to pour a bucket of cold water in there. When the mixture has been infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to treat both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can re-treat a couple of weeks after the first. Before you start processing with this product, you need to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.
Cicadas, thrips, roseate sawflies, and leaf rollers can also harm climbing roses. However, if you take care of the flower, following all the rules, they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in close proximity to the rose; they will be able to protect this plant from most pests. Also, preventive measures should be taken in autumn and spring. To do this, the bushes need to be treated with a Bordeaux mixture sprayer.
For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, koniothyrium, powdery mildew, and black spot pose a great danger.
Rose diseases and their treatment
Bacterial cancer
Very soft and lumpy growths of different sizes appear on the surface of the plant. After some time they become harder and darker. This leads to drying out and death of the plant. There is no cure for such a disease. When purchasing seedlings, you need to carefully examine them, and before planting them, you need to disinfect the root system by immersing it for 2-3 minutes. in a solution of copper sulfate (3%). If there are signs of disease on an adult plant, the affected parts must be cut off immediately, and the sections must be treated with the same three percent solution.
Koniothirium
This disease is fungal, which is considered a bark burn or cancer. You can see that the plant is sick in the spring, after the shelter has been removed. On the surface of the bark you will see specks of brownish-red color, which will eventually turn black and turn into rings around the stem. These stems should be cut off immediately, capturing some of the unaffected tissue, and destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease. For preventive purposes, in the autumn, nitrogen fertilizer should be replaced with potassium fertilizer, which will make the rose tissue stronger. And during thaws, it is necessary to ventilate the plants by raising the shelter.
Powdery mildew
A whitish coating appears on parts of the roses, which gradually turns brown. The appearance of such a disease can be triggered by high air humidity, sudden changes in temperature, excessive amounts of nitrogen in the soil and violations of watering rules. Parts of the rose that are affected by the disease must be cut off and destroyed. Next, the plant should be treated using a solution of copper sulfate (2%) or iron sulfate (3%).
Black spot
Dark brownish-red spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which are bordered by a yellow rim. Over time, they merge with each other and cause the leaf blade to die. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer under the roots in the fall. You will also need a three-stage treatment of the plant itself and the soil near it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) or iron sulfate (3%). The breaks between treatments are 7 days.
Gray rot
It can destroy almost all parts of the plant (buds, leaves, shoots). Such a rose loses its beauty, and its flowering becomes relatively sparse. If the disease is severe, the rose should be dug up and burned. If the disease has just appeared, it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution prepared from 5 liters of water and 50 g of Bordeaux mixture. In order to cure the plant completely, as a rule, 4 treatments may be needed, the interval between which should be 7 days.
It happens that a seemingly healthy and well-developed climbing rose does not bloom. The point here may not be a disease at all, but the fact that a seedling of poor quality (poorly flowering) was purchased, and besides, the wrong place was chosen for it, and the soil, too, is most likely not entirely suitable for this plant. And it also happens that last year’s stems are damaged during wintering.
Pruning climbing roses
When to prune climbing roses
These plants need pruning, since it is this that allows them to form a beautiful crown, make flowering more abundant, and along the entire height of the bush, and improve its decorative qualities. If you prune the plant correctly, it will delight you with its flowering throughout the entire period of intensive growth. Vegetative stems deserve special attention, since the bulk of the flowers are formed on last year's stems. Roses should be pruned in spring or autumn. At the very beginning of the period of intensive growth of absolutely all climbing roses, it is necessary to remove dead stems, as well as areas that have been frostbitten. You should also cut off the ends of the stems to the strongest outer bud. The following pruning procedures will be directly related to how many times a particular rose blooms, one or more.
How to prune correctly
In those plants that bloom once per season, the flowers grow on last year's stems. Basal (faded) stems are replaced by restoration shoots, which can grow up to 10 pieces. Flowers will grow on them only next year. In this regard, faded shoots will need to be removed by cutting them out at the root, and this procedure is recommended to be carried out in the autumn during preparation for wintering. Those climbing roses that bloom several times per season, flowering branches of different orders grow on the main stems for 3 years - from 2 to 5. In the fifth year of life of these stems, their flowering becomes more sparse. In this regard, at the beginning of the spring period, the main shoots must be removed, cutting to the base, and this should be done in the fourth year of their life. Repeatedly flowering bushes should have 3 annual restoration stems and 3–7 flowering stems, which are the main stems. But at the same time, we must remember that in most of these roses, flowers form on overwintered stems, so in spring, only the upper part with the buds, which are underdeveloped, should be cut off from them.
Young roses that are grafted and planted last or this year need special attention. Until the rose has formed its own root system, you will have to systematically remove the rose hips. After 1–2 years (after the root system of the rose hips dies), rose shoots will begin to appear.
general information
Climbing roses are a member of the rose hips family, and are the most popular plant for vertical gardening of literally everything. Garlands, columns, walls, pyramids - they are truly adored by landscape designers around the world.
Climbing roses bloom from late spring until autumn. It is very difficult to give them a general description due to the diversity of species. The average length of climbing shoots varies from 2.5 to 5 m.
Flowers can be simple or double, of different colors and even with different aroma. Among climbing roses there are simply a huge number of hybrids. Centuries of work by breeders have not been in vain.
Photo: qlumba.com
Propagation of climbing roses
Can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting. It is easier to do this by layering and cuttings. Seeds must be purchased from a specialized store. If you want to sow the seeds that you collected from roses, then you must understand that such plants do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant, and therefore anything can grow from you.
Propagation by seeds
The seeds should be placed in a sieve and immersed for 30 minutes in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, the seed material is disinfected, as well as the formation of mold is prevented during further stratification. Soak cotton wool discs in hydrogen peroxide and place seeds on them. Place the same moistened cotton pads on top of them. Each resulting “sandwich” should be placed in a separate polyethylene bag. Label the date and variety name, and then place the seeds in a refrigerator container designed for storing vegetables. It is necessary to arrange a systematic check. Moreover, if mold is found, the seeds must be washed and soaked in hydrogen peroxide again. The cotton wool is replaced with fresh ones, and the seeds are again placed in the refrigerator. After 6–8 weeks, the seeds that should have sprouts should be planted in peat tablets or separate small pots, and they should be sprinkled with a layer of mulch on top, which should be perlite, this will help avoid the “black leg” disease. Provide the plants with at least 10 hours of daylight and timely watering as the substrate dries out. If the plant develops normally, then 8 weeks after planting, buds will appear, and after another 4–6 weeks the plant will bloom. You can fertilize with a weak solution of complex fertilizer. In spring, they are planted in open soil, and then they are cared for, like adult roses.
Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings
Cuttings are the easiest method of propagation, which gives good results. For cuttings, you can use both faded stems and flowering ones. They need to be cut from the second half of June to the first days of August. The lower oblique cut should be made directly under the bud, with the cut angle being 45 degrees. The top cut should be straight and located as high as possible above the bud. The cuttings must have at least 2 internodes. The lower leaves must be torn off, and those on top should be shortened by ½ part. It is planted at a centimeter depth in an earth mixture consisting of sand and soil, or in sand. Cover it on top with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. Place in a well-lit place, protected from direct sunlight. Watering is carried out without removing the shelter. Treating cuttings with a root growth accelerating agent can be useful only when the variety takes a long time to root.
Reproduction by layering
In spring, an incision is made in the shoot above the bud. Then it must be placed in a prepared groove, the depth and width of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. You must first add a layer of humus to the bottom of the groove and cover it with soil on top. The shoot is fixed in several places. Then it is covered with soil so that the upper part rises above the soil surface. Layering needs systematic watering. After the next spring, the cuttings should be cut off from the parent plant and planted in a new location.
Grafting climbing roses
Budding is grafting the eye of a cultivated rose onto a rosehip rhizome. This must be done from the last days of July to the last days of August. Before grafting, the rose hips must be thoroughly watered, after which an incision in the shape of the letter T must be made on the root collar of the rootstock. The bark should be pryed up and slightly torn away from the wood. You need to cut out a peephole from the rose cutting along with some of the bark and wood. Then it is placed tightly into the prepared incision and the area is rewound very tightly with suture film. Then you need to hill up the rose hips so that the soil rises above the grafting site by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is slightly loosened, and next spring it is removed completely.
Features of care after flowering
What to do when the roses have faded
With the beginning of the autumn period, you should begin preparing roses for the winter period. From the last days of August, you need to completely stop watering and loosening the soil and start feeding with potassium instead of nitrogen. The upper part of unripe stems must be removed. Such roses must be covered for the winter, but first they are removed from the supporting structure and placed on the surface of the soil. It is very easy to place a young plant on the ground. It is not easy to lay an adult specimen on the ground, and this can take up to 7 days. It must be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures the shoots become fragile and can break.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter
You need to cover the plant when the air temperature drops below minus 5 degrees. This should not be done earlier, because the flowers must harden, and they may also begin to rot or grow (which is associated with a long stay under cover without air). Sheltering should be done in non-rainy, windless weather. You need to remove the leaves from the removed shoots, cut off the damaged stems, tie the lashes using a rope, and then carefully place them on the litter. To create it, you can use dry leaves or spruce branches. Do not place the plant on bare soil. Press or fix the plant on the surface of the soil, and cover it with dry leaves or grass, or you can also use spruce branches. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with soil or sand, and then cover the plant with lutrasil, polyethylene film, roofing felt or other material that cannot get wet. There should be a layer of air between the plant and the shelter.
Preparing the soil and planting hole
Planting hole for a rose
The climbing rose is a large plant with powerful roots. If you have excellent nutritious soil on your site, then you don’t have to make a large planting hole. But if the soil is poor and clayey, then you will have to try hard. A rose can grow in almost any soil, but the strength and intensity of flowering will depend on its nutritional value. We dig a hole measuring 60 by 60, 50 cm deep. Prepare the planting soil: garden soil, compost, sand, well-rotted manure, humus, mineral fertilizers, you can add ash. When planting in autumn, there is no need to add manure, as this can provoke the growth of shoots.
Important! Do not put fresh manure in the planting hole, it will harm the roots of the plant.
The soil should be light, nutritious, water-permeable and breathable.
All that remains is to choose a variety and correctly plant the future decoration of your garden.
Varieties of climbing roses with photos and names
The best varieties of climbing roses. MY GARDEN on the Dacha channel.
The most popular varieties are described below.
Ramblers (small-flowered climbing roses)
Bobby James
This vigorous variety can reach a height of 800 cm, while the crown has a width of up to 300 cm. The rich green leaves are almost invisible due to the many creamy white flowers, the diameter of which is 4–5 centimeters. They smell musky. You need a lot of free space and reliable support. Not afraid of frost.
Ramblin' Rector
Five-meter long lashes are decorated with light green leaf plates. Semi-double cream flowers are quite small. They are 40 pieces each and are part of large inflorescences in the form of a brush. When exposed to the sun they fade to white. This plant is also cultivated as a bush plant.
Super Excelsa
Bushes two meters high and wide are decorated with double flowers, painted in a rich crimson color, which are collected in racemes. It blooms until the end of summer, but the bright color fades in the sun. Frost-resistant and not susceptible to powdery mildew.
Climings and climbers (large-flowered varieties)
Elf
The height of the erect, vigorous bush reaches 250 cm, and the width is 150 cm. The diameter of the densely double flowers is 14 centimeters. They are white with a greenish tint and smell of fruit. Flowering until the end of summer. Has resistance to diseases.
Santana
The four-meter bush is decorated with dark green carved leaves and semi-double velvety large ones (diameter 8–10 centimeters). They have a rich red color. Not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases. Blooms several times per season.
Polka
The height of the bush can exceed 200 centimeters. The glossy leaves are dark green in color, and the large double flowers (12 centimeters in diameter) are apricot. During the season, flowering is observed 2 or 3 times. Has resistance to powdery mildew. For wintering you need good shelter.
Indigoletta
A vigorous three-meter bush has a one and a half meter diameter. The leaves are dense, dark green. Terry lilac large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) and fragrant flowers are part of the inflorescences. It grows quickly and blooms several times per season. Resistant to diseases.
Cordes hybrids (they are not classified as a separate group, but are classified as ramblers)
Lagoon
The fragrant, tall plant has a diameter of 100 cm and a height of 300 cm. The racemose inflorescences consist of large double (diameter up to 10 centimeters) dark pink flowers. Flowering is observed 2 times per season. It is resistant to powdery mildew and blackleg.
Golden Gate
The bush has many shoots, and its height is 350 centimeters. Racemose inflorescences consist of semi-double large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) flowers, painted yellowish-golden. They smell strongly of fruit. Flowering occurs twice per season.
