Molucella flower. Description, features, types and care of molucella


Irish scilla is today considered one of the most original garden plants. This is not surprising: this plant, better known as molucella, is truly exotic and unusual. Whichever method you use, it will give your garden an extravagant character. But besides the unusual colors, molucella has other benefits. Beautiful greenery, an unconventional color palette and excellent staying power in bouquets make up for the fact that this plant is not easy to care for.

Molucella

Molucella or molucella refers to perennial or annual plants depending on the species. Some call the plant Irish bellflower or Molucca grass.

The flower is most often grown to decorate an area, but some gardeners grow it as a houseplant. Molucca grass can be used to decorate bouquets, and can also be used as a dried flower; the plant retains its color and shape after drying. Molucella smootha is popular among gardeners.

Molucella smooth belongs to annual plants. The flower reaches a height of 70-100 cm. The inflorescences of the plant are small and have a weak aroma. Flowering begins at the end of June and continues until autumn.

Care and cultivation of molucella

Molucella prefers sunny or slightly shaded areas with fertile and loose soil. However, the flower can grow in almost any soil. In general, moluccan grass is an unpretentious plant and does not require special care.

Molucella easily withstands high temperatures. The plant is responsive to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. The plant must be provided with regular watering, which should be increased. Fertilizers are applied once every 2 weeks in dry and hot weather.

To maintain the appearance, yellowed leaves and faded molucella flowers are promptly removed. Perennial molucella species are covered for the winter.

Reproduction

Molucca grass is propagated by seeds. Sowing of seeds is carried out in the spring immediately in open ground in a permanent place. Molucela is also propagated by seedlings. In this case, the seeds are sown around the beginning of April in boxes under glass or film.

After sowing, the boxes are placed in a cool (14-17 degrees) room. After germination, the plants are planted in separate pots with a mixture of sand and peat. Plants are planted in open ground around May.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 40-45 cm from each other.

Diseases and pests

Molucella is resistant to diseases and pests. However, if not properly cared for, the plant's root system may rot.

Form: herbaceous plant. Molucella is the name of a genus of annual branched plants. There are about 30 species in nature.

The first mention of molucella dates back to 1570. Smooth molucella (M. laevis) is an annual plant 75–90 centimeters high, with many stems and rounded, serrated leaves along the edges.

Small white molucella flowers with a faint aroma are embedded in a funnel-shaped pale green calyx. Several calyxes are collected in a spike-shaped inflorescence. Flowering lasts from late June until autumn.

The seeds are gray-brown, tetrahedral. Molucella has no varieties. On sale the species is found as Molucella Skromnitsa.

Growing conditions: The plant loves sunny or slightly shaded areas. For molucella, cultivation is preferable in well-drained soils.

In culture, molucella is used in mixborders as a green background for flowering plants, as well as for cutting. This unusual plant looks very original in both summer and winter (dry) bouquets.

Watering is moderate, abundant in dry weather, but water stagnation should be avoided. Fertilize with complex mineral fertilizer once every two weeks. Molucella reproduces by seeds. Sowing seedlings at the end of March.

In the southern regions it can be sown in open ground in May. Diseases and pests

Varieties

There is no need to talk about numerous varietal diversity. However, some varieties of Irish bells were still bred.

Emerald is one of the most popular varieties of this crop. It is resistant to cold and unpretentious. This is an annual varietal variety. The height of the erect stem, which is distinguished by strong branching, does not exceed 90 cm. The spikelet-shaped inflorescences consist of white and small flowers, which are immersed in funnel-shaped green cups. The flowering period of the variety lasts from July to September. Perfectly suitable for use in landscape design. With the help of Emerald you can create a variety of flower arrangements from annual crops and flower beds. The variety is also ideal for cutting.

Emerald

Enigma is another variety of molucella. The erect stem reaches a height of about 90 cm. This is an annual variety. On the stem there are elongated spikelet-shaped inflorescences, which consist of numerous white small flowers, which are surrounded by a green cup. This variety is distinguished by its love of warmth and moisture. Prefers to grow in illuminated but slightly shaded areas. It will perfectly complement a composition of annual flowers, becoming a wonderful green background. Used for mixborders. In addition, the variety is perfect for cutting and drying. Dried plants can retain their rich green color for 5 years.

Molucella Green is an annual varietal variety of molucella. The height of the annual plant rarely exceeds 60 cm. On erect, branched stems there are spikelet-shaped inflorescences. They consist of small white flowers with a subtle aroma. The flowers are surrounded by green bells that look like a funnel-shaped cup. The variety is undemanding to soil and shade-tolerant.

Skromnitsa is a varietal variety that, despite its “modest” name, is capable of adding showiness and color to a garden plot. The stems bear spike-shaped inflorescences that consist of white flowers that are surrounded by bright green bell-shaped sepals. The leaves have a round shape with jagged edges. Shy prefers fertile soil and grows well in open sunny areas, but is not averse to growing in partial shade.

Shy

Santa is an annual from the Gavrish company. This plant is about 70 cm high. The stem is erect with spike-shaped inflorescences of small white flowers with green bracts. The flowers have a pleasant aroma. It begins to bloom in June and ends with the onset of autumn. The variety prefers sun or partial shade.

Santa

The beauty of green bells

On a tall stem, which sometimes reaches 90 centimeters, large green bells grow densely, with tiny snow-white flowers hiding inside. It seems like this is a guest from a fairy tale. But no, molucella comes from the Mediterranean and mentions of it are found in sources of the 16th century.

The heat-loving herbaceous plant is planted in sunny areas, in sandy and well-drained soil. Molucella is propagated mainly by seedlings at the end of March. You can sow seeds directly into the ground, sprinkled with a little soil, in May and only in regions with a mild climate, otherwise the sprouts will not sprout or will not be able to grow strong enough.

Molucella care is simple. In normal weather, it is necessary to provide moderate watering, and during periods of drought, abundant watering. Mineral fertilizers are periodically applied. The plant is resistant to disease and is rarely affected by pests.

An exquisite green “candle” will decorate any flower garden. In addition, it is good in a stylish summer bouquet and in a winter composition as a dried flower.

Molucella: planting and caring for unique tall spines and described species

Molucella is an annual plant native to the Mediterranean region, primarily Syria, where it was discovered by wandering scientists in the late 16th century.
Molucella attracts attention with its pure individuality. Unlike any other flower, molucella stands tall and shows off its uniqueness, making a beautiful addition to garden beds and spreading a wonderful sweet vanilla scent. Luckily, growing the plant is very easy.

Molucella is a member of the mint family, Molucella is a genus of only four species. As members of the Lamiaceae family, they are related to such ornamental and culinary plants as sage (Salvia), catnip (Nepeta), thyme (Thymus) and lavender (Lavandula).

Reproduction methods

Marcela reproduces vegetatively. For this process, 3 methods are most often used, which have shown the best engraftment results: adventitious roots, root and green cuttings. Remontant raspberry varieties produce a relatively small number of offspring.

To increase it, it is necessary to cut off the central part of the root system in the autumn-spring period. In the remaining part, a lot of new growth is formed, suitable as planting material. Seedlings grow best in a shaded greenhouse. If the weather during this period is cloudy, then you can do without it.

In practice, propagation by root cuttings is used a little less frequently. To do this in the fall, you need to dig up the rhizome and cut it 10–15 cm long. The thickness of the roots should be at least 2 mm (they adapt faster to new conditions). It is better to immediately plant such material horizontally in a permanent place in a hole 7–8 cm deep. Then water and cover.

Propagation by green cuttings also shows good results, but this method takes the longest. Spring is the optimal period for planting cuttings, since growth buds appear on the cuttings, by which the number of divisions is determined. In order for the cuttings to grow stronger, they need to be planted in a pot, sprinkled with damp sawdust and placed in the cellar until next spring.

Find out more about how to propagate remontant raspberries.

Growing molucella seedlings

Molucella seedlings are strong and develop quickly. For plants, maintain light, stable soil moisture. It is better to leave the temperature the same or even lower it to 12-15 degrees. Plants can also develop in normal indoor conditions, if you immediately take them out into the fresh air for at least a few hours a day or constantly ventilate them, lowering the temperature at least at night. But bright lighting, but without direct sun, is a must for them.

Molucella seedlings are grown until the first or second true leaves appear.

Growing from seeds

Growing this plant from seeds is far from a complicated procedure. Molucella can be grown by seeds either through seedlings or by sowing seeds directly into open ground.

How to grow a plant using seedlings?

  • It is necessary to sow seeds at the end of March;
  • It is recommended to prepare the container for sowing in advance and fill it with a thin layer of sand;
  • The container must be installed on a bright window (southern or permanent), and it is necessary to protect the crops from direct sunlight;
  • The first shoots can be detected within a month, but not all seeds can sprout;
  • In order for the seeds to germinate better, you can place the container with the seeds in the refrigerator and keep it there for two to three weeks;
  • In mid-May, the seedlings can be transplanted into open ground;
  • The distance between seedlings should be no less than 40 cm;
  • If there is a threat of frost, the seedlings must be covered to prevent them from freezing.

Reproduction of molucella

Irish bells are propagated only by seeds:

Seedling method

Sowing is carried out in early April in large containers, germinated in cool conditions with a temperature of 14 to 17 degrees under film or glass. The cover is removed after the sprouts appear, and the diving is carried out after the first leaf appears. Molucellas need to be planted in individual pots.

For seedlings, they use not a regular substrate, but a mixture of peat and sand. Molucella seedlings can be transferred to open ground in May, as soon as severe return frosts have passed. When planting, you need to maintain a distance of 40 to 50 cm between plants.

Read our detailed material: Growing molucella from seeds

Landing

When and where to plant seedlings of this crop?

For planting, it is recommended to choose an open, illuminated area; molucella can also grow in partial shade. The plant is not overly demanding on soil. However, it grows much better in fertile soil with good drainage. It is good if the soil contains sand.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of about 40 cm from each other. This is done in mid-May.

The plant requires high-quality and regular watering. If the weather is dry, then you need to water even more abundantly and more often.

Molucella responds well to fertilizing. They can be applied once every week. At the same time, you should not get carried away with organic matter, for example, manure, since organic fertilizers contribute to the development of fungal infections.

The stem branches strongly, so it is better to tie up the crop.

In a word, molucella is an unpretentious plant that can grow in almost any soil and loves warmth and sun.

Description

The earliest mentions of this culture date back to the 15th century. The flower is very fragile, delicate and sophisticated, for these reasons it is rarely used by florists. Although it looks impressive in bouquets. The flower may be injured by the hard edges of other plants. Requires placement in a spacious container.

The peduncle of the flower is quite long, dense, and well sessile. Other flowers look great against its green background. Unpretentious, tolerates cold quite steadfastly. The greens are always a juicy bright green color, like emerald. Do you want to grow this original flower for yourself?

It will be interesting to read about forget-me-not.

Where to plant

Classic places for planting molucella in landscape design are a flower bed, tapeworm, border and, of course, mixborder. This annual is quite tall, so willy-nilly it has to be placed in the background. But a luxurious green background is formed for bright flowers. The Irish bell itself blooms towards the end of June and retains its luxurious appearance until September.

1. Flowerbed. Flower beds with molucella in white and green tones are especially good. This will allow you to highlight one of the areas in an original way, for example, a corner of the garden. This option will please those who are already tired of the bright floral palette and want sophistication and nobility. Smooth molucella, snapdragon and tailed amaranth are planted in the flowerbed. The effect of such a trio will be simply amazing! The Irish bluebell is also beautiful in a flower bed with delphiniums.

2. Mixborders and discounts. Mixed plantings remain a fashionable trend, confidently displacing symmetrical and prim flower beds. Molucella in mixborders is placed in the background, along fences, walls, paths, and near hedges. You can play with contrast. Red flowers are especially impressive against a green background. Plant varieties with a similar greenish tint are often placed nearby: fragrant tobacco, lilies, primroses, as well as coleus and amaranth with reddish foliage.

The combination of different shapes and shades, which is easy to achieve in compositions with the Irish bell, looks very picturesque.

Landscape compositions

Irish bells are very actively used in creating landscape compositions. These include mixborders, ridges, and flower beds of annual crops. These flowers are an excellent background for other plants . In addition, molucella is often grown in containers on balconies.

In contrasting flower beds, crop neighbors can be:

  • Red poppy;
  • Salvia;
  • Other.

For single-color flower beds, molucellae can become partners:

  • Coleus;
  • Primrose;
  • Fragrant tobacco;
  • Cereal ornamental crops.

Irises, lupins and other crops can also be partners.

The photo below shows how Irish bluebells look in combination with other crops in the garden. Molucella gives any composition a somewhat “vegetable” and humorous appearance. An excellent choice for front gardens, compositions for the English garden, in which such non-trivial elements are welcome.

This green flower garden along the path can be created using Irish bells.

The plant is also actively used in bouquets, including wedding ones. Recently, florists have increasingly begun to use the culture to create wedding arrangements due to the fact that, according to legend, molucella brings good luck and family happiness.

Photo of cut flowers:

Irish bluebells last a long time when cut and are also great for drying. These dried flowers can retain their rich green color for 5 years.

Selection of bouquets using molucella:

This, of course, is not a living bouquet, but a 3D model, but the idea can be adopted.

Wedding bouquet of white hydrangeas and lush apple green molucella bells.

Quite a controversial option. A bouquet with molucella is too light and funny to be combined with crystal glasses and classic furnishings, unless you want to add a dissonant note. Such a bouquet would be appropriate without any doubt in a bright, cheerful kitchen. Although, of course, the bright green of molucella goes well with the shade of the tablecloth. Cherry and apple color are one of the most successful and pleasing to the eye combinations.

Here and below are floral compositions. It is noticeable that molucella goes very well with dense, textured white and red flowers.

Description and characteristics

The description of the plant is a combination of the characteristic features of its parents: an upright, medium-sized bush with an average number of shoots of the current season, moderate growth vigor.

A very young, fast-growing seedling does not have anthocyanin coloring at the top. During the ripening period, this color is either absent or very weak, the length of the internode is short, and the length of the vegetative buds is average.

The leaf blades are medium green in color, mostly concave in cross section, and slightly wrinkled. The spines are either absent or there are very few of them on the pedicels.

They have a small base and a greenish-brown color. The lateral leaves are freely arranged.

The flowers are self-fertile and small in size. The bush produces a medium-sized glossy cone-shaped burgundy-pink fruit in abundance.

Sowing molucella in the soil

Sowing molucella seeds is carried out in a previously prepared place, where they plan to grow the plant in the future. It is better to dig up the soil in the fall and, if necessary, adjust it by adding organic and mineral fertilizers. After the soil melts in the spring, it is loosened and leveled again. Approximate sowing dates are late April or early May.

Molucella seeds are sown in shallow furrows, after thoroughly watering the soil in them. The seeds are laid out rarely enough so that there is no need for extensive thinning and it is easier to separate excess young seedlings, using them as seedlings. The crops are covered with soil and watered again.

After the emergence of molucella shoots, thinning or planting of excess plants is not carried out until the second or third true leaves appear. As the soil grows, it is better to mulch it. Young plants are immediately provided with regular watering, preventing the soil from drying out too much during drought. Seedlings must also be protected from proximity to weeds.


Young molucella seedlings grown from seeds

Where to buy seeds?

Molucella seeds can be purchased both in specialized flower shops and ordered via the Internet or Russian post.

VarietyWhere can I buy?Price
Shy (Sedek)"Russian seeds" (Seeds by mail)19 rubles
Emerald (Aelita)Online store “Dacha Market” (Ekaterinburg, delivery throughout Russia)14 rubles
Shy (Sedek)Online store “Seeds here” (Moscow, delivery throughout Russia)18 rubles
Emerald (Aelita)Online store “Seeds of the Year” (Moscow, delivery throughout Russia)18 rubles
Enigma (Article)"Seeds by mail"25 rubles

Self-collection of molucella seeds and their selection for sowing

Molucella seeds ripen well in the fall, even in the middle zone, but they easily spill and it is better not to miss their technical maturity, otherwise you may be left without planting material. Externally, the seeds of this summer plant are very similar to buckwheat - tetrahedral, large, dark brown, they are very easy to sow. Seeds remain viable for up to 3 years with virtually no loss of germination rates; you can also use older seeds if you are confident in the correct storage conditions.

Molucella seeds do not require any pre-treatment. It is better to store them in tightly closed containers or paper bags, cool and away from light. But if the plant is grown from seedlings, then a few weeks in the refrigerator (not in the freezer, of course) will help speed up the germination process, get more uniform shoots and improve the germination of old seeds.

Moalucella seeds. Green Thumb

Video review

A story about unusual bells - from the video channel Around the World TV.

Irish bells or molucella are one of the most spectacular garden annuals, an indispensable plant for both floristry and dried bouquets. Luxurious candles made from large green bells will captivate you at first sight. And growing molucella is not at all difficult. Like most annual plants among the best plants for winter arrangements, molucella propagates only from seeds. They can be sown both in the ground and for seedlings. Moreover, the last option is by no means the most difficult.


Shoots of molucella sown as seedlings. © Chris Winsor

There are not so many green-flowering plants in the garden collection. But even against the background of similar crops, molucella looks like a special crop. Smooth molucella (Moluccella laevis) is the only representative of an already not very extensive genus that has become widespread as an ornamental plant. This is a powerful, branched, large annual plant about 80-90 cm high.

The leaves are bright, jagged along the edge, form a beautiful crown cushion, ideally in harmony with the inflorescences. Small white flowers are “hidden” in a light green bell-shaped calyx, forming a strikingly dense candle-shaped spike of inflorescences. Molucella blooms, provided it is sown in early May, already from June, flowering lasts until the beginning of autumn.

Planting molucella in the soil

Transplanting molucella seedlings into the soil can be done in May, when severe age-related frosts have passed. Earlier planting is preferable, especially if it is possible to cover the plants when there is a threat of frost for additional protection.

For Irish bluebells you need to choose sunny or at least well-lit areas. Light shading will not hurt, but may affect the size of the inflorescences. The soil for molucella must be of high quality - loose, nutritious, although this amazing summer plant can take root in almost any soil, except damp.

Planting is carried out as standard, in small individual holes, if possible, without destroying the earthen ball of the seedlings (molucella is not afraid of transplantation, but still adapts faster with careful handling). It is preferable to keep the depth level the same. The optimal distance for planting is about 40 cm to neighboring plants.

After planting, molucella will have to provide systematic care, which cannot be called simple. The plant needs to be fed with the same frequency as potted annuals - once every 2 weeks. Watering should be regular, and in hot weather – very frequent. Maintenance can be simplified somewhat by mulching. If this is not done, then young molucellae will also need weeding. And to maintain its attractiveness, you will have to pinch off yellowed flowers and leaves from the plant. Inflorescences are cut at the peak of decorativeness.

Alternative methods of propagation of molucella:

  • using self-sowing as seedlings;
  • sowing before winter.

Growing molucella from seeds - tips and tricks for home and garden from NewsForever.ru

The soil

Prepare the soil for molucella by removing gravel and weeds, then cover the top 2 to 3 inches of compost. For optimal performance, test the soil after each growing season to see what adjustments are needed before the next season begins.

If compost isn't an option, you can instead add an inch or two of mulch after planting, although it's best to wait until the seeds have sprouted to give them the light they need to germinate. As plants grow, the mulch turns into compost. Just make sure it doesn't get on the stems to avoid problems with rot.

Gardeners can grow molucella as a fall annual by sprouting the seeds in the fall. Simply refrigerate the seeds a week before sowing them with the rest of your fall annuals.

General information:


Molucella ( Moluccella) is
a herbaceous, annual, very rarely perennial plant, belongs to the Lamiaceae family. There are only three species of plants in this genus. Molucella is a very rare plant. Distributed in India and Mediterranean countries.

The plant is tall in height, up to one meter in length, has an erect stem, sometimes branching. The leaves are not very large, light green in color. The flower smells very pleasant, small, mostly white, immersed in a green calyx. All flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences. Very similar to a small bell.

Molucella is mainly used as an ornamental plant and is planted outdoors in the garden. Blooms from mid-summer to late autumn. The flower seeds are brown and very small. They keep their germination capacity for up to three years.

Kinds

The most common species, which is actively used in floriculture, is called smooth molucella (Moluccella leavis). The culture comes from the Mediterranean. This is an annual plant. It can grow up to 90 cm. It is distinguished by strong branching of shoots. Flower stalks are located on them.

The leaves are round in shape, their edges are slightly jagged. This gives them a very decorative look. The leaves are darker in color than the inflorescences, which consist of a dozen small white flowers. But it is not the flowers that are valued in floriculture, but the bracts. The bracts resemble bell flowers. They have the appearance of a cup-shaped funnel of light green color.

Molucella smooth

The bracts are collected in spikelet-shaped inflorescences. The length of these spikelets can reach 50 cm. Such inflorescences give the plant an incredibly impressive appearance. The flowers themselves have a sweet, but barely noticeable aroma.

Flowering period is long. This crop begins to bloom in mid-summer and blooms until autumn.

In addition to this type, there are two more:

  • Prickly;
  • Oshe.

However, these varieties are not used in gardening and floriculture.

Molucella smooth, or Irish bluebells

Smooth molucella, or Irish bells (Molucella laevis) is a rather rare, but very decorative and unpretentious annual plant of the Lamiaceae family. This unusual flower came to us from Syria. Molucella is a branched plant up to 65-70 cm high.

Its shoots are almost completely covered with whorls of rather large sessile bracts of light green color, very similar to bells, inside of which there are small, almost imperceptible, white flowers. Between the bracts, small leaves on rather long petioles are visible here and there. These bells are collected in dense spike-shaped inflorescences.

If you look at the molucella flower carefully, then indeed - here is a green bell, and here are white bells. The plant begins to grow, barely reaching a height of 20 cm. Flowering is very long, lasting from the beginning of July until autumn.

The whole plant has a peculiar, strong, rather pleasant smell. The otherworldly beauty of the molucella is guarded by thorns that are completely invisible to the eye, but any physical contact is sensitive. So admire the flower, but don't touch it.

Growing

For growing molucella, sunny or slightly shaded areas are allocated. Any well-drained soil on which water does not stagnate is suitable for this. The plant will grow even better in loose and fertile soil.

Molucella does not tolerate fresh manure, and if there is an excess of organic matter in the soil, it can be severely affected by fungal diseases. Plant care is usual - watering in dry weather, fertilizing with complex fertilizers once every two weeks. Only in this case the plants grow quickly and bloom luxuriously.

The stem of the crop is rigid and stable, but due to the winds the plant requires a garter. Flowers are cut during the period of full flowering, but before the lower calyxes turn yellow. In August, faded plants are removed from the flowerbed and placed in compost.

Reproduction

Molucella is propagated by seed, mainly by seedlings. Seeds are sown in early April, covered with a 0.5 cm layer of sand. Shoots will appear in 10-25 days. Both crops and seedlings should be kept at a temperature of 16-18 degrees.

The seedlings should have good lighting, but should be shaded from direct sunlight. Young plants are planted in the ground at a distance of 30-35 cm, and if there is a threat of frost, they are covered. Due to the fact that molucella seeds germinate very, very unevenly even in the most favorable conditions, it is much easier to purchase ready-made seedlings in the store.

Usage

Molucella is used both for landscaping and for cutting. On the site it is planted in small groups in mixborders or near the lawn, where it serves as an excellent green background for other crops.

Against the background of the dense greenery of other flowers, molucella is at first seemingly invisible. But time passes, and the inconspicuous plants stretch into giant candle-like spikes.

It also grows quite well in a balcony box. But its main use is as a cut flower for summer bouquets as an original addition to the usual garden flowers. Molucella looks like an emerald candle, therefore, due to its unusual appearance, it is also one of the best plants for making winter compositions, because when dried, the flower calyxes retain their green color. Harvesting molucella as a dried flower has its own characteristics - you need to wait until all the calyxes in the inflorescence open, and pull out the plant with its roots.

In a cool, ventilated, shaded room, hang it with the roots facing up. The place should be dark, because In the light, the plants begin to turn yellow. After drying, remove the wrinkled leaves and trim the roots.

Ural gardener No. 28-2012

What plants does it go with?

Irish bluebells are ideal for flower beds, mixborders and creating compositions from annuals. This plant can also be planted in containers to decorate terraces, balconies and stairs.

Molucella goes well with red poppy, salvia, tall snapdragon, fragrant tobacco, ornamental cereals, irises, calendula, nasturtium, and lupine.

Mollucella can be used in winter compositions. To do this, it is necessary to pull out the plant by the roots during the period of full opening of the bracts on the peduncles. Irish bells need to be dried hanging in a dark room. After this, remove the leaves and roots.

Harvesting and storage

Raspberries need to be picked every couple of days. If you do not wash the berries after picking, they can be stored in the refrigerator for about 5 days. If washing is necessary, they should be allowed to air dry completely before storing. It is better to preserve fruits as quickly as possible. You can also freeze raspberries by placing them in airtight bags.

The Marcela raspberry variety is one of the unpretentious shrubs with high yields. If you rationally follow the recommendations for planting and care, and also take measures to protect the shoots from pests and diseases, the berries will be quite large and surprisingly tasty.

Description of celosia

Celosia, Latin name Celosia, is a genus of plants in the Amaranthaceae family. Previously, this genus was often placed in the Chenopodiaceae family.

The genus includes up to 60 species, originating from warm climate regions in Asia, Africa, North and South America.

Perennial or annual herbaceous plants (as well as shrubs) with straight, succulent, ribbed green stems, often with a red tint, 30-70 cm tall. The leaves are arranged in alternate order, entire, petiolate, smooth, ovate with a pointed end, green, variegated or dark purple. The flowers are small, bisexual, with brightly colored membranous bracts, collected in large, original comb or paniculate inflorescences. The fruit is a round capsule. The seeds are round, shiny, black. There are 700-800 pieces in 1 year, retaining germination for up to 5 years.

Celosia inflorescences are divided into three main groups according to their shape:

  • spikelets
  • feathery
  • comb

The most commonly cultivated plants are celosia cristata and celosia pinnate.

Silver feathery celosia (Celosia argentea var. plumosa). Dan McKay

Landing Features

The best time to plant raspberries is the beginning or end of the growing season, but no later than October, so that the seedlings have time to fully take root before winter. When planting, you need to maintain an interval between bushes of approximately 1 m. There should be a distance of 1.5–2 m between rows.

In order for raspberries to quickly take root and fully develop, it is recommended to add humus to the dug hole during the planting process. Additionally, it is recommended to add about 5 tablespoons of mineral fertilizer

It is very important that the fertilizer does not contain chlorine

Important! Raspberries greatly reduce soil fertility. Every 10–15 years it is necessary to replant it to a new place.

Deadlines

The growing season of Marcela begins in March. After at least 37 days, the flowering process begins. It usually falls in mid-May.


The ovary turns into a fruit within a month. Depending on weather conditions, the time for raspberries to ripen varies - most often it is the second ten days of June. The summer fruiting period can last for 1–1.5 months. In July, annual shoots begin to bloom, which already produce a second harvest in August–September.

Choosing a suitable location

The yield of Marcela raspberries is greatly influenced by sunlight. In a shaded area, resistance to diseases and pests is also significantly reduced. Windy areas with high humidity should be avoided.

Groundwater should be at a depth of more than 0.8 m. It is better to place seedlings away from wild berries. They can spread pests and diseases.

Marcela is very demanding on soil fertility. It is better to place raspberries on soils that are light in mechanical composition and whose acidity does not exceed 6.5 pH.


The best are gray podzolized, chernozem, sod-podzolic and brown soils of medium density.

Selection and preparation of planting material

A seedling for planting must have a developed root system of at least 8 cm in diameter without rotted areas. The stems should be of medium diameter (1 cm), even, straight, and undamaged. Too thin ones may freeze in winter, and thick ones may not take root.

The roots should be in the soil, straightened and not curled up. Before planting, it is advisable to dip them in a clay mixture with Heteroauxin and soot for better survival.

Landing algorithm

Before planting, the area should be cleared of perennial weeds. You need to dig up the area and enrich the soil with organic fertilizer at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m² or Growmore - 90 g per 1 m². You should avoid alkaline and mushroom composts - they can burn new shoots.

2 weeks after preparing the soil, you can begin planting. If the plant has not undergone the hardening process, then before planting it should be kept in the shade for 3 days, and then, within a week, transferred to the sun using water irrigation.

You can plant shoots only after the end of frost, but the best period for annual seedlings will be October, and for last year's seedlings - July - August.


The planting hole should freely accommodate the root with the remaining soil. The loose soil around the base of the shoot needs to be compacted a little. To retain moisture in the soil, it is worth sprinkling the plant with a coarse suspension of organic mulch.

Growing from seeds

The plant produces abundant self-sowing, is easy to weed out, self-sowing plants look like weeds.

Molucella can be sown at home at the end of March or the end of April directly into open ground. Depends on the purpose of the plant. You can sow some in the apartment and open ground. Extending the collection of flowers.

The seeds are quite large, 180-200 pieces per gram. Seeds remain viable for 3 years; experience shows that older seeds will also germinate. To get a higher percentage of seedlings and greater uniformity, you need to work hard. The seeds are soaked in warm water for a day. The water is changed or installed in a warm place. Then they are sown in a container, the container with sowing is inserted into a plastic bag, and for 2 weeks in the refrigerator on the top shelf at a temperature of approximately 2-4 °C. After 2 weeks, the seedlings are removed and placed in a bright place, with a temperature of approximately 18 °C. The seeds are covered with a thin layer of soil with perlite. Light promotes germination. The best solution would be to sow in cassettes with small holes, place the cassette covered with a bag in the refrigerator. Seedlings do not tolerate picking well, but will do well when transplanted into slightly larger pots from a cassette with a whole root ball. After emergence, the temperature is reduced to 15 °C; seedlings do not like high temperatures and grow poorly. When the molucella produces several leaves, you need to make a decision whether to pincer (pinching) or not. Unpinned plants will bloom earlier, have longer inflorescences, and fewer inflorescences. Plants with pinching bloom 2 weeks later; in short, due to greater branching, the inflorescences are larger and bend less toward the ground.

The seedlings germinate almost without fertilizers and picking; the seedlings should be fed. Fertilizers based on organic substances are suitable. You can feed with a general purpose fertilizer of chemical origin; the fertilizer should be diluted at least twice.

After mid-May they are planted, plants without pinching are planted at a distance of 15x15 cm, pinched at 25x30 cm.

Before sowing, a dose of Azofoska, 50 g m², is applied directly into the open ground and dug shallowly. Since the seeds are not exposed to hypothermia, seedlings will be irregular and less numerous. Therefore, patience will be required, because some plants will already be quite large, others will just sprout. An additional complication is the appearance of leaves that resemble weeds. You need to pay close attention to what you are weeding.

Care

Molucella is grown almost exclusively for bouquets and ikebana. In flower beds, molucella looks dull and is an excellent background for small and flowering plants. It has its drawbacks; due to its hollow stems and height, it easily bends or even bends to the ground, especially in heavy rain or wind. To maintain straight shoots, you need to think in advance about support stakes and rope. Taller specimens need to be tied up almost twice. Another drawback is the drying out of the flowers from below; from mid-August, the decorative value of the flowerbed is in doubt.

Flowers for a bouquet should be cut early in the morning; low temperatures make the plants more resilient and last longer in the vase.

When removing leaves between the bells, pay attention to the rather sharp thorns; you can get seriously pricked. When cutting flowers, do not refuse slightly curved ones.

Molucella smooth has empty stems into which thin wire can be inserted. Align or bend the wire slightly to give the plant the desired shape and direction.

Molucella for ikebana is harvested when most of the calyxes are fully developed and hard; collection should occur in the morning. Immature upper calyxes ripen during drying and are removed. The shoots are tied, small bunches are dried with the stems up in a shaded, ventilated place. It is better to dry in the dark to preserve the apple green color of the plant. If fragile shoots break easily when arranging dry bouquets, keep them in a glycerin solution for at least 6 hours before drying. A solution is prepared from 2 parts hot water and 1 part glycerin. The shoots are lowered by about 7-10 cm, the plants are removed when the first drops of glycerin appear on the cups. Now you can dry it without fear of the shoots becoming brittle.

Using Molucella

Collect flowers regularly to use in fresh or dried arrangements. Molucella spiers stay fresh for eight to ten days when freshly cut. Remove the leaves before arranging to make the bouquet even more beautiful.

To harvest molucella for fresh arrangements, cut off the flower spikes when they reach the desired height and half the bells are open and green. Store fresh arrangements in a cool, shady place to prolong the life of the vase.

Dried molucella spikes go from a distinctive green hue to a pale beige. Cut flowers for drying in mid- to late summer, when they bloom most productively and the bells are fully open. Hang the stems in small bunches upside down in a dry, ventilated area until they are completely dry.

Growing

The shrub, not picky about environmental conditions, does not require much effort to grow. The main task of the gardener is to achieve flowering of this plant with the help of proper care.

Lighting. Helichrysum is extremely light-loving. The area intended for its cultivation should be well lit and not shaded by other tall plants.

  • Watering. Almost all species are drought-resistant. Watering is only needed during periods of prolonged dry heat. On other days, the plant survives on groundwater and rain. Stagnation of water at the roots of helichrysum is unacceptable, because of this it may die.
  • Feeding. All annual and perennial species grown as annuals are content with one fertilizer, which is applied when planting.

However, those species in which flowers are the main decorative element are fed at the end of summer. This allows them to bloom until October. When feeding, compost and mineral fertilizers for flowers are used.

Perennials need to be fed more and more often. These plants are fertilized several times during the season. In the spring - once. In summer, fertilizing is carried out every three weeks. In autumn, the shrub is also fed once.

Fertilizers are used organic (compost) and complex mineral.

  • Loosening. Throughout the growing season, the soil around the helechrysum must be periodically loosened and weeds removed from it.
  • Pruning consists of regularly removing dried shoots of a bush and wilted inflorescences during flowering. This will lead to stronger and juicier flowering.
  • Wintering. Only perennial plants are prepared for wintering. In order for the helichrysum to delight the gardener with its beautiful appearance next year, in late autumn all above-ground parts must be cut off down to the root collar. The planting site is insulated with spruce branches, sawdust, dry leaves and other suitable materials.

In winter they add snow. Plants planted in flowerpots, pots and other containers are brought into a warm room. The same can be done with plants planted in the garden. Only first they need to be carefully removed from the soil and planted in containers with soil.

The soil

The optimal soil for helichrysum will be loose soil with sufficient nutrients, neutral or weak acidity and good drainage.

Chernozem soil, as well as loam, are suitable. If the soil is clayey and dense, retaining water, then it must be improved by adding sand, peat and installing a drainage system.

Reproduction methods

Two methods are used to propagate helichrysum. The first is germinating seedlings from seeds, the second is dividing the bush.

Collecting seeds after they have ripened is not difficult.

  1. After drying in a dry, warm and dark room, helichrysum seeds are placed for storage in paper bags or bags.
  2. At the beginning of spring, they are placed in a container with a nutrient soil mixture and covered with transparent material.
  3. The material is regularly removed for ventilation and watering for two or three hours. It is possible to plant seeds for germination in greenhouses.
  4. Sprouted and rooted seedlings are moved to their place of permanent growth at the end of spring, after the soil has warmed up thoroughly.
  5. The distance between sprouts is maintained at twenty-five centimeters.
  6. The holes previously made for planting must be equipped with drainage and a peat soil mixture with added sand should be placed there.

Wild species of helichrysum often grow in infertile places. Therefore, its cultivated species take root well and quickly in almost any place. However, for their faster development and abundant flowering, all conditions for caring for them must be observed.

In this case, already in July the sprouts will take root, develop and bloom.

The plant is propagated by dividing the bush in early summer.

For division, choose a healthy and developed bush, carefully divide it into parts along with the root system. After this, parts of the bush are planted immediately in the place of permanent growth and cared for as an adult plant.

There is also a method of sowing seeds directly into open ground, used mainly in the southern regions of our country.

In the conditions of central Russia, helichrysum may not have time to take root and bloom until the fall.

Growing and care

Molucella propagates by seed and seedlings. The seeds are light brown in color and their shape resembles a tetraerd. Germination occurs within three to four years. Seeds should be sown in early spring. To do this, you need to create a sand layer of half a centimeter. You need to take care of good lighting for the flower, but do not overdo it; you do not need to place it in direct sunlight.

Shoots may appear in different ways, for some in a week, while others will have to wait until the end of the month. Since the flower is hardy and cold-resistant, leave the crops and seedlings at 13-15 degrees.

When you plant in the ground, make sure to maintain a distance of 40-45 centimeters. If frost occurs suddenly, the plant will need to be covered. Any well-drained garden soil can be used for the plant.

It needs sunlight, but it won't do much harm in the shade either. We must take into account the fact that the flower sprouts unevenly; some sprouts will appear faster, while others will have to wait longer.

It is necessary to water the flower more abundantly in dry weather. For good growth and vigorous flowering, it is advisable to feed and fertilize once every one or two weeks.

Since its stem is quite rigid, it can easily break off in a strong wind. To prevent this from happening, you need to tie it up and create additional support for it. To cut, you need to wait for full flowering, this moment will be more suitable. But this must be done before the cups that are located below turn yellow.

Do you want to keep the plant dry?

After all, this way it will retain its bright green color forever. To do this, you need to take the plant with its roots out of the ground, but only after all the calyxes have opened, and then turn the plant over and leave it hanging.

When the plant is dry, cut off the roots of the flower with scissors and remove any wrinkled leaves. The Irish bluebell, as it is also called, belongs to the unusual family Lamiaceae.

Varieties of Molucella

A popular and favorite variety of this plant is Emerald . It differs from other varieties in being more unpretentious and resistant to cold. You might be surprised to learn that the dried plant can retain its vibrant color for many years.

The Shy person is exotic and moisture-loving. Capable of blooming with small white flowers. Prefers more sun than the previous species. When you plant it in open ground, you need to feed it a little with nitrogen fertilizers, and do this several times with breaks of one or a week and a half. Then you can use complex fertilizers until the plant begins to bloom.

Enigma - another variety - with a straight and hard stem grows 92-95 cm in length. Inflorescences resembling spikelets sometimes give birth to bright, but small, numerous flowers. They are boldly embraced by bright green cups. The plant likes to be sprinkled with moisture and bathed in sunlight, but not on hot days. In the summer heat, it is worth darkening the plant.

The plant Smooth molucella is an annual plant. It looks like a bush that climbs on its own. The funnel-shaped leaves are on long petioles with jagged edges. The erect stems reach high and can reach up to 1 meter.

It is dotted with bright green flower beds, among them you can see small white flowers. The pleasant fragrant scent of these flowers is very refined with gently elegant spicy notes. You will notice its flowering from early summer to early autumn.

smooth Santa plant is unisexual, branched. They reach no more than 65 centimeters. The rounded leaves have jagged edges. Pleasantly smelling small flowers surround the green buds. When planting this species, you can directly into the ground; the best month for this is May. No more than half a centimeter deep. For good germination, use film to cover the seeds.

Can serve as an excellent frame for other plants and flowers. More often used for cutting for composition along with other flowers. Can be used in both summer and winter bouquets.

Molucella care

Caring for molucella cannot be called complicated. It just needs to be attentive, with mandatory procedures to ensure compensation for any vagaries of the weather. And the main task is not to forget about watering. Molucella needs regular watering, rare during normal rainfall and very frequent on hot days and prolonged drought.

Irish bluebells are more than responsive to feeding. Fertilization leads to more active growth and more luxuriant flowering. At the same time, the plant will gratefully accept both ordinary mineral fertilizers and organic matter. For molucella, which is grown for cutting, fertilizers are applied every 2 weeks. Many gardeners prefer this feeding scheme for ordinary gardeners, because it allows them to achieve the most colorful flowering.

A very important component of molucella care is the removal of fading flowers. If you notice that a leaf on a plant turns yellow or a flower in an inflorescence begins to wither, immediately remove it from the bushes.

It is better to remove annual plants from flower beds and compositions at the end of autumn. Perennial molucellae need a completely different preparation for wintering: the plants need to be trimmed, covered with soil and covered either with dry leaves and spruce branches, or with any reliable method available to you.

Pest and disease control

Molucellia is one of the hardiest garden plants. But Irish bluebells will only show their resilience if they are properly cared for. Overwatering or planting in wet soil can cause the plant to suffer from rot, which affects the roots of the plant.

Molucella - care:

Lighting:

Molucella prefers well-lit areas of the ground, and can also grow normally in partial shade. She is not very picky when choosing lighting. Just don't plant it in the shade. Molucella will grow, but development activity will noticeably weaken.

Temperature:

Molucella grows and develops normally in fairly high air temperatures. 20 – 25 °C is considered optimal. It can also tolerate very high temperatures for some time. The plant does not tolerate frost; if it gets on it, it may freeze. Therefore, it is better to cover the flower for the winter so that it can be preserved for the next year.

Watering:

Molucella should be watered sparingly. Especially in dry weather, the frequency of watering should be increased to four times a week. In this case, it is enough to monitor the soil to see if it has time to dry out. If not, then reduce watering. In cases of rainy autumn, you don’t have to water the flower.

Humidity:

Molucella is not picky about air humidity. It grows normally at an average humidity of about 55-65%. Does not require spraying with water.

Feeding:

Molucella responds positively to feeding with nutrients. It is recommended to apply mineral and organic fertilizers to plant growth once every two weeks. So it will bloom profusely, the leaves will be a rich green color.

Transfer:

It is not recommended to replant Molucella very often. Fresh manure should never be added to the soil, because fungal diseases may appear.

Reproduction:

Molucella reproduces by seeds and seedlings. It is better to sow seeds in mid-spring in loose soil containing sand and organic matter. They should not be sown too deeply. After a few days, the first shoots appear. But the crops need to be kept at a high air temperature, about 20 °C, and in a dimly lit place. When the seedlings sprout and grow a little, you can plant them in open ground, keeping a distance of up to 30 cm from each other. In case of frost, they need to be covered. To plant Molucella, you need to take drained, moist soil.

Reasons for the loss of sweetness in strawberries

The first reason is a mistake with a strawberry variety; the gardener, moving his collection, simply mixed up the varieties and now the variety that he thinks should be sweet, alas, has “lost” its sweetness. Conclusion: when transferring a collection, you need to be as careful as possible and always sign the varieties.

The second reason is the long growing period. Strawberries have been growing in one place for more than six years, the bushes are old, their root system is worn out, and it cannot provide the former mass and former taste of the fruits of this crop.

The third reason is excess moisture in the area: if it rains, then, in fact, it is not your fault, but you can loosen the soil more often so that a soil crust does not form and the moisture evaporates faster. Essentially, you can do the same thing when overwatering an area.

The fourth reason is the soil. The thing is that strawberries simply love fairly fertile and well-drained soil, sometimes even slightly acidified (pH 5.5-6.0). If you notice that this year the taste of strawberries is not typical for the variety, with a lack of sugar, then feed them next spring with compost mixed in equal parts with river sand, and then water the soil well. It seems like a trifle, and can not be considered as feeding, but the fruits actually turn out sweeter and larger, of course, if the plantation is fresh.

The fifth reason is the height of the bed. If your plot is uneven, consists of a slope or a series of uneven spots, then you can simply make high beds, thus leveling them, and get a stable harvest of sweet fruits from them.

The sixth reason is the incorrect location of the bed. Ideally, strawberry plants should be positioned so that the plants receive at least eight hours of light per day. Warmth and plenty of light are almost the two main factors that have a dominant impact on the taste of berries.

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