Planting actinidia arguta and kolomikta with seedlings and seeds

Actinidia is a member of the genus of woody vines and part of the actinidia family. In the wild, such a plant can be found in Southeast Asia, the Himalayas and the Far East. This genus includes approximately 70 species. Almost every person knows a fruit of this species, the delicious sea anemone - this is kiwi. This liana comes from China, but its fruits appeared in Europe only in 1958. The name of this liana was derived from the Greek word, which translates as “archer”. Today, in temperate latitudes, species are cultivated that are related to the sea anemone, but their fruits, as a rule, are not very large and less shaggy when compared with kiwi. Among the cultivated species cultivated by gardeners, the leader is Actinidia kolomikta: this garden actinidia is highly resistant to frost. Actinidia acute (arguta) is the largest species of this genus; the height of such a vine can reach up to 30 meters.

Features of actinidia

Actinidia is a deciduous vine that is a perennial. The leaf blades are entire, in some cases they are leathery, but sometimes they are also thin. Actinidia is highly decorative due to its variegated foliage, since such plants can be seen quite rarely in mid-latitudes. The shoots and stems of such a vine need support. The scars of the leaf blades contain buds. The flowers are mostly solitary, but can also form small groups of three; they are collected in the leaf axils. Quite often, actinidia have white corollas, but in some species their color is yellow with a golden tint or orange. The flowers of most species are fragrant, but in some species they have a pleasant smell, for example, polygamous actinidia.

What are the differences between female actinidia and male actinidia?

This dioecious plant has both male and female specimens. You can find out which sex of the actinidia you have grown when it blooms for the first time; this is determined by the structure of its flowers. But what are the differences between a male specimen and a female one? The flower of a male plant has a large number of stamens, but there is no pistil. The flowers of a female plant have a pistil in the central part, which is surrounded by stamens that have sterile pollen that is not capable of pollination. Pollen gets to female specimens from male specimens with the help of bees, bumblebees and wind. It is on the shoots of the current year that buds appear, and they are located in the leaf axils. The plant blooms for about a week and a half, then the female specimens develop ovaries, which eventually form into pale orange or greenish-yellow fruits. Since such a vine is dioecious, to obtain fruits, it is necessary that at least two copies are grown in the garden, so that they will have the opportunity to cross-pollinate. The fruits of such a vine are quite a valuable dietary and food product; they contain a large amount of ascorbic acid, sugars and other biologically active substances. Such fruits are eaten fresh, and are also used to make drinks, jam, wine, and are also dried. The dried fruits of this plant are similar to very large raisins. Over the past few decades, the popularity of actinidia among gardeners has grown significantly and therefore it is quite possible that after some time it will be as widespread a crop as strawberries, currants or raspberries.

How to plant actinidia correctly. Actinidia care

Useful qualities and applications

The fruits are used as an antiscorbutic remedy, since their vitamin C content is many times higher than that of lemon and is close to rose hips (up to 900 mg). In addition, they contain:

• pectins;
• tannins;
• microelements;
• sugar (up to 9%);
• glycosides;
• organic acids;
• phytoncides.

In medicine, fruits and leaves are used for vitamin deficiency, to stimulate the heart.

Beneficial properties of fruits and juice

In the growing areas, the local population uses actinidia in the following cases:

• tuberculosis;
• bleeding of various nature;
• bronchitis;
• stomatitis and caries;
• constipation;
• whooping cough

In addition, juice, fruits and alcohol tincture reduce blood pressure and increase the elasticity of blood vessels; the extract is taken for radiation sickness, since actinidia fruits are able to remove radionuclides and prevent the penetration of radioactive chlorine and potassium.

The benefits and harms of actinidia

Along with its beneficial properties, the ornamental plant is widely used in landscape design. The berries are suitable for processing and are eaten fresh.

Important! When fruits are heated, vitamin C is preserved almost completely.

In Russia, actinidia was officially recognized in 1999. And in 2012, 31 varieties were already approved in the State Register and approved for use.

Planting actinidia in open ground

What time to plant

It is necessary to plant actinidia in open soil at the beginning of spring or autumn. To do this, you need to purchase a bush from the nursery, the age of which will be from 2 to 4 years. The planting site must be chosen with special care, because with proper care, such a plant can grow in one place and bear fruit for more than 30 years. But this is only if the gardener strictly adheres to the rules of agricultural technology for a given crop. This liana is shade-loving, but it requires sunlight to ripen the fruits. In this regard, the best place for planting it will be a sunny area, which will be in the shade in the afternoon. Actinidia has an extremely negative attitude towards proximity to an apple tree, but it can be planted next to currants. This vine cannot be grown on clay soil. The soil should be moist, loose, well-drained and non-alkaline. If the groundwater is shallow, then to plant this vine you will need to make a hill of soil. It is very good if the site is located on a slope or on a hill, since there the liquid does not stagnate in the root system, but flows down itself. It should also be taken into account that this plant requires mandatory support, for example, it could be a fence or the wall of a building, but it is best to use a special trellis for actinidia. Using this design, you can form a plant, for example, in the shape of an arch; the point is that the fruits are located in the upper part of the crown, and therefore, when grown near a building, they will have to be collected from its roof.

Spring planting

Planting should be done in the first weeks of spring before sap flow begins. If you are planting actinidia agruta, you should keep in mind that this is a fairly large vine, and therefore a distance of 150–200 centimeters should be maintained between plants. When planting actinidia kolomikta, a distance of about 100 centimeters is left between the specimens. If this vine is used as decoration for the wall of a building, then it must be planted at a distance of 50 centimeters, and organic matter must be added to the prepared trench. Before proceeding with the actual planting, the seedling will need to be prepared. To do this, it is necessary to remove all dried and injured branches and roots; the root system should be immersed in a clay mash before planting. The planting pit is prepared half a month before the planting day. Its size should be 0.5x0.5x0.5 m, at the bottom a layer of pebbles, broken bricks or small pebbles should be made for drainage. Please note that the use of building crushed stone is prohibited, since it contains lime, which is so unloved by this plant. After this, the pit must be filled with nutritious soil mixed with peat (humus or compost), and 250 grams of superphosphate, 120 grams of ammonium nitrate and 35 grams of potassium sulfate or wood ash must be added to it. You cannot add fertilizers to the soil that contain chlorine, for example, potassium chloride, as this may cause actinidia to die. After 14 days, the soil in the hole will settle, and you will need to make a hill in it from simple garden soil. The seedling is placed on this hill so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface. Then the hole must be gradually filled with earth, which should be well compacted. The planted actinidia needs to be watered abundantly; for this, 20–30 liters of water are taken per bush. The surface of the tree trunk must be covered with a layer of mulch (compost), the thickness of which should be 40–50 mm. Until the seedling takes root, it must be protected from direct rays of the sun; for this it is recommended to cover it with cloth or paper. Cats simply love the smell of actinidia, and therefore the vine must be protected from them. To do this, it is necessary to dig a metal mesh around the plant to a depth of five centimeters, the height of which should be at least 50 centimeters.

Autumn planting

In autumn, the vine is planted in open ground 15–20 days before the first frost, and only seedlings no older than 2–3 years should be used, otherwise the plant will not be able to survive the first wintering, as it will take a long time to take root. It is necessary to plant actinidia in open ground in the autumn in the same way as in the spring.

HOW TO PLANT ACTINIDIA. Growing actinidia. How to grow actinidia.

Which support is suitable?

This vine does not have aerial roots, so it is not capable of harming the structure. In this regard, it can be safely planted near the walls of buildings, using them as a support. It is very often used to decorate gazebos. If there is no support, the plants will become tangled, which makes caring for them much more difficult, and the number of fruits may be reduced. Experienced gardeners choose classic forms of pergolas and arches, which can be metal, wood or concrete, as supports. Also, galvanized wire can be stretched between two concrete posts that are not very high, and in this case 3 or 4 rows are made according to the principle of a grape trellis, this will allow the actinidia to grow horizontally. As the shoots grow, they should be tied to a trellis. In regions with cold winters, removable trellises are often used. They are made from a metal angle, it is inserted into pipes that should be dug into the ground. Before frosts begin, such a trellis should be pulled out of the pipes and carefully placed on the surface of the area, while there is no need to remove the vine from it, but it must be well covered. In spring, such trellises return to their usual place.

Correct fit

Caring for actinidia in the spring involves proper planting. The plant is undemanding to soil. In its natural environment, it grows in soil with a low content of phosphorus and nitrogen. Alkaline and clay soils are completely unsuitable. Sour, slightly acidic, or at worst neutral are preferred. This explains the impossibility of using lime as a fertilizer. It is preferable to plant plants in the spring, but it is also possible in the autumn 2-3 weeks before frost.

Autumn planting is carried out only for plants of the 2nd-3rd age.

For planting, dig holes 60*60 cm, putting 10-15 cm of drainage in them (pebbles, expanded clay, crushed stone). Add rich soil to each hole by mixing 2-3 tbsp. wood ash, 10 kg of humus and 0.15 kg of superphosphate.

It is strictly forbidden to introduce lime or manure!

As soon as the earth settles, they begin to plant the plants, having first poured a hill of soil that does not contain fertilizer into the hole, on which the seedling is placed. There should be a distance of 1.5-2.5 m between the bushes. After planting, the seedlings are watered (about 2-3 buckets per unit), the soil is lightly pressed down so that the root collar is level with the ground. The top is mulched with peat, sawdust, compost, and pine bark.

Supporting the plant vertically

After planting, it is immediately necessary to install supports for actinidia (frames, trellises) - two-meter concrete or wooden, between which a wire is stretched in 3-4 rows. Orient the support frame from east to west. The plants are placed on the south side, forming on a support in the form of a ridge or fan.

Actinidia care

During the growing season, actinidia must be watered in a timely manner, weeds must be removed, pruned, fed, and the health of the vine must be monitored and, if necessary, treated for diseases or pests destroyed. At the same time, any type of actinidia must be cared for in the same way. It is recommended to moisten such a plant in the morning and evening by spraying; this procedure is especially important in hot weather. During prolonged drought, the vine begins to shed its foliage. To prevent this, the soil should be moistened once a week, with 60 to 80 liters of water poured under 1 bush. If all the leaves of the vine do fall off, then the young leaf plates that appear in their place will not be able to get stronger before frost and will freeze. The surface of the soil near the bushes should be loosened quite often, but not to a very great depth. While loosening the soil, weeding is also done.

Fertilizer

If you feed the plant with mineral fertilizers, this will lead to an increase in frost resistance and an increase in the yield of the vine, and the growth of young shoots will also be activated. At the very beginning of the spring period, for every 1 square meter of soil, 20 grams of potassium and phosphorus and 35 grams of nitrogen fertilizers must be applied. The plant should be fed the second time during the formation of the ovaries; for this, 10–12 grams of potassium and phosphorus and 15–20 grams of nitrogen fertilizers should be added for each 1 square meter. When all the fruits have been collected (around mid-September), the vine needs to be fed again. To do this, 20 grams of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be added for every 1 square meter. Fertilizers are purchased in granules, which should be distributed over the site and buried 10–12 centimeters into the soil. Once this is done, water the actinidia generously.

Actinidia pruning

If you care for the plant correctly, this leads to stimulation of stem growth, and the buds also begin to awaken. Very often the result is a strong thickening of the crown. If the crown is excessively thick, this will negatively affect the frost resistance and productivity of the plant. Therefore, it is very important to carry out formative pruning in a timely manner, but only plants that have reached 3–4 years old can be subjected to it. The plant needs to be trimmed during the summer, and those branches that remain should be distributed along the trellis, pointing them in the direction you need. In order for the wood to ripen better by winter, it is necessary to pinch the tips of the shoots, which will slow down their growth. If the trellis is horizontal, then a two-arm cordon is made from the stems; for this, it is necessary to direct 2 stems, located at the same level and in the same plane, in opposite directions and fix them in this position; the remaining shoots of this level must be removed. Next year, second-order stems will grow on these horizontal branches, and ovaries will form on them. These shoots should be tied to a vertical guide; as they grow, they themselves will begin to curl around it. To replace old skeletal branches, you will need rejuvenating pruning; it is needed for plants that are 8–10 years old. After such pruning, only a stump should remain from the actinidia, the height of which should be from 0.3 to 0.4 m. You cannot prune the vine at the beginning of the spring and at the beginning of the autumn, the fact is that at this time the actinidia has a very strong sap flow, and if damaged, it can leak juice, which will lead to its death.

Actinidia pruning part 1

After harvesting the fruits

When the vine is 3 or 4 years old, its first fruits appear, but it begins to produce good harvests from the age of seven until old age. Thus, actinidia can bear fruit for 40 years or even longer. If you care for the plant correctly, you can collect about 60 kilograms of fruit from one specimen per season. The fruits do not ripen at the same time, but they do not fall from the bushes for a long time. Fruit harvesting begins in mid-August, and in some cases the harvest ends only in mid-September. When the vine is freed from fruits, it needs feeding, which will allow the plant to survive the winter normally.

Care in autumn and winter

Young seedlings that have been growing in the garden for no more than 2 or 3 years must be removed from the support and well covered using spruce branches, peat or fallen leaves. The thickness of the covering layer should not be less than 20 centimeters, while experienced gardeners advise placing rodent poison under it. The mice do not touch the stems, but they make their nests in them. In April, cover should be removed from young bushes. Adult actinidia are subjected to sanitary pruning from the middle to the end of September, while their stems are cut by ½ or 1/3 of their length, and all branches that contribute to thickening of the crown must also be cut out. Mature vines do not need to be covered for the winter.

SHELTER OF ACTINIDIA FOR WINTER.

The benefits and harms of berries

Reproduction of actinidia

There is nothing complicated in propagating actinidia, especially since the gender and varietal characteristics of the parent plant are inherited, but only if you propagate it vegetatively. When growing from seeds, you will not be able to determine what gender the seedling is, and in this case the seedlings rarely inherit the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. However, it should be taken into account that plants grown from seeds are distinguished by higher endurance, but they, as a rule, begin to bear fruit only at the age of seven. Moreover, those actinidia that were grown using the vegetative method produce their first fruits at the age of three or four.

Reproduction of actinidia by arc layering

It is very easy to propagate such a vine using arc layering. In the spring, after the end of sap flow and the blossoming of young foliage, it is necessary to find a well-developed and sufficiently long growth shoot; its top should be bent to the surface of the earth and fixed in this position. In the place where the shoot is pinned to the ground, it should be sprinkled with soil, and the layer thickness should be from 10 to 15 centimeters, then the resulting mound should be well watered and covered with a layer of mulch (sawdust or humus). It should be taken into account that the top of the stem must remain free. Provide the shoot with timely weeding and watering, while the young shoot that has grown from it should be systematically moistened with a sprayer. By autumn, the cuttings should take root and can be planted in a permanent place. You can also transplant the cuttings next spring.

Actinidia. Choosing a reproduction method

Actinidia propagation by cuttings

Actinidia can be propagated by green cuttings. With this method of propagation, you can quickly and easily obtain many seedlings. Cuttings are harvested in June, at which time the fruits grow very quickly, and the stems begin to become woody and change their green color to brown. You need to select several annual strong branches that reach 50–100 centimeters in length; they need to be cut off from morning to lunch. The ends of the cut stems should be placed in a container with water, this will prevent the branches from withering. Then the shoots should be cut into several cuttings, the length of each of them should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. Remember that each segment must contain 2 internodes and 3 buds. The top cut should be straight, and it should be located 40–50 mm above the top bud. The cut at the bottom should be made at an angle of 45 degrees, and it is made directly under the lower bud. The lower leaf plates and their petioles must be carefully removed, while those plates located on top are shortened by ½ part. The prepared cuttings need to be planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, while the bed is made in advance and watered well. The soil should be slightly acidic or neutral; river sand and humus (2:1:2) should be added to it, as well as complex mineral fertilizer, which does not contain chlorine (100 grams of substance per 1 square meter). The cuttings are planted at an angle of about 60 degrees, the row spacing should be 10 centimeters, and a distance of 5 centimeters should be maintained between the plants. The cutting must be buried in such a way that its middle bud is flush with the surface of the substrate. The soil surface around the planted sections must be compacted. Then they are watered, and when the water is completely absorbed into the ground, its surface is covered with gauze rolled up in 2 layers. Before the cuttings sprout roots, they need to be very well moistened with water from a spray bottle 2–5 times a day directly through gauze. If the weather is rainy, then the gauze can be removed from the cuttings, and this is done in the morning and evening. Half a month after landing, the shelter is removed for good. For wintering, the cuttings need to be covered with dried leaves. In early spring, before the buds open, the rooted cuttings must be dug up and planted in a permanent place.

Important tips about Actinidia kolomikta

Reproduction of actinidia by lignified cuttings

Lignified cuttings are harvested in late autumn. They are tied into bundles, which are placed vertically in a box filled with sand. There they will be stored until spring. To store cuttings, a temperature of 1–5 degrees is required. The preparation of such cuttings can be done in the last weeks of winter, and it must be done before the sap begins to flow. The cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse; they need to be watered once every two days. Next, they need to be cared for in the same way as green cuttings.

Combined cuttings are also suitable for rooting. In the first weeks of summer, it will be necessary to cut off the growing stem of the current year with the heel (part of the annual branch adjacent to it). Such cuttings should be planted in a greenhouse or in a garden bed. They must be protected from direct sunlight and provided with daily watering. In this kind of cuttings, rooting occurs quite quickly, and therefore already next year they can be planted in a permanent place.

Actinidia propagation by seeds

Seeds must be extracted from ripe fruits that have not been damaged. They should be kneaded, and the resulting mass should be placed in a mesh bag. It is thoroughly washed under running water, after which the remaining seeds in the bag are laid out on a paper sheet. To dry, they are placed in a shaded place. Preparing seeds for planting should begin in the first ten days of December. To do this, they are placed in a shallow container, into which water is poured so that it rises 20 mm above the seeds. Soaking the seeds will last 4 days, and the water must be systematically replaced with fresh water. After this, the seeds need to be poured into a nylon stocking, which is placed in a box filled with damp sand. The container with seeds should be placed in a place where the temperature will remain between 18–20 degrees. Once every 7 days the stocking must be removed from the sand. Allow the seeds to air, just a few minutes will be enough, then they should be rinsed under running water directly in the stocking. After this, they must again be placed in a container with damp sand. Be careful not to let the seeds dry out. In January, this box, along with the seeds and sand in it, should be wrapped in cloth, and then it is buried in a very deep snowdrift. The seeds will stay there for 8 weeks. If there are no deep snowdrifts on the street, the seeds along with the box will need to be placed on the vegetable shelf of the refrigerator. They will stay there for 8 weeks, then the box is taken out and put away in a place where the air temperature fluctuates between 10–12 degrees. Remember that seeds should not be placed in heat, as after cold they may go into a dormant period. After stratification, seeds should continue to be washed once a week and ventilated. After several seeds have hatched, you can start sowing them. To do this, use containers filled with turf soil mixed with river sand, and they need to be buried only 5 mm into the substrate. Emerging seedlings need regular spraying from a spray bottle, and they also need to be protected from direct sunlight. After the seedlings have 3 or 4 true leaf blades, they are planted in a greenhouse; as a rule, this time occurs in mid-June. The first flowers of such plants will appear at the age of three to five, then it will be possible to transplant them to a permanent place after determining the sex.

Selecting a location

Actinidia is a climbing plant, so it is often planted along the walls of a house, hedges, gazebos and other buildings. In addition, this arrangement protects the plant in winter, and it rarely freezes.

In their natural environment, actinidia prefer the “openwork” penumbra of sparse forests, so when growing plants in the garden, it is advisable to choose a place with identical conditions and protect them from direct sunlight.

Actinidia does not like places where water stagnates for a long time, so it is not recommended to plant it under drains and in tree trunks.

Pests and diseases of actinidia

Diseases

Actinidia has very high resistance to diseases and pests. If you properly care for the plant and do not forget about the rules of agricultural technology when growing it, then such problems may not arise with it at all. In some cases, such a vine can become infected with a fungal disease, which causes spots to appear on its foliage, for example, phyllosticosis, powdery mildew, etc. Actinidia is also susceptible to infection with diseases such as gray and green mold, and fruit rot, while actinidia arguta suffers from them somewhat more often. Cut off all infected parts of the vine (leaf blades, stems, fruits); for preventive purposes, it is recommended to spray the plant with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%), when the buds appear, the second treatment is carried out half a month after the first. In order to get rid of powdery mildew, you need to spray the plant with a solution of soda ash (0.5%), and it is treated a second time 1.5 weeks after the first spraying.

Pests

At the very beginning of the growing season, the swollen actinidia buds can be damaged by leaf beetles. When the larvae of these insects appear, they will begin to devour the leaf plates, of which only veins will remain. Less commonly, caterpillars of the raisin moth settle on the vine; they gnaw large holes in the foliage. Bark beetles and lacewings can also settle on such a plant. Therefore, it is very important in the spring to carry out preventive spraying of actinidia and the surface of the area around it with Bordeaux mixture; this will help destroy overwintered pests and pathogens. In the fall, the same treatment should also be carried out with the same agent in order to destroy pathogenic microorganisms and pests that have settled in for the winter.

Actinidia or Arctic kiwi

Harvest

Actinidia kolomikta and polygamy begin to bear fruit in the fifth year of life, arguta - in the eighth or ninth. In early August, the berries become soft, juicy and green. They ripen at the same time within a month. Ripe fruits fall off quickly, so it is better to lay something under the bush for harvesting. This way, every morning you can easily collect fresh, ripe fruits that fell overnight.

If you harvest the entire crop at once, the berries will ripen well indoors in paper bags or boxes. Hard fruits - after 2-3 days, while retaining excellent taste, aroma and vitamin C.

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Actinidia varieties with photos and descriptions

There are a large number of species of actinidia in the wild, but only 3 of them are cultivated by gardeners: actinidia kolomikta, arguta and purpurea. They also grow interspecific actinidia polygamous, Giralda and hybrid. A large number of different varieties of these subspecies and species are also cultivated. Below will be a detailed description of them.

Actinidia arguta

Of all the cultivated species, this is considered the most powerful. In the wild, it can be found in the Far East, and the height of such a vine can vary from 25 to 30 meters. The trunk reaches 15–18 centimeters in diameter. The pointed, ovoid-shaped leaf plates reach 15 centimeters in length and have a finely toothed edge. This dioecious plant is decorated with fragrant white flowers, reaching a diameter of 20 mm; they can be collected in racemes or single. The dark green, spherical fruits can be eaten; they have a slight laxative effect. The diameter of the fruits reaches 15–30 mm, while they weigh about 5–6 grams. Fruit ripening occurs in the last days of September. Popular varieties:

1. Self-fertile . This frost-resistant variety ripens relatively late, because its fruiting period begins from mid to late September. Rich green, elongated, cylindrical, fragrant fruits weigh 18 grams. From one bush they harvest from 10 to 12 kilograms of fruit.
2. Primorskaya . This self-fertile variety requires male plants. Resistance to frost is average, and resistance to pests and diseases is high. Soft, smooth green leaf plates are of medium size. The fruits are elliptical in shape, olive in color, weigh 6.6–8.3 grams, the pulp is very tender, covered with thin skin, it has an apple smell and high taste.
3. Large-fruited . This dioecious variety is resistant to drought and frost. Medium ripening fruits. They have an elliptical shape, dark green color with blush, weigh 10–18 grams, and reach 2 centimeters in length. The pulp is slightly aromatic and has a honey taste.

In addition to these varieties, gardeners often grow such varieties as: actinidia Estafeta, Mikhneevskaya, Ilona, ​​Zolotaya Kosa, Vera, Sentyabrskaya, Lunnaya, etc.

Actinidia kolomikta

This plant is very frost resistant. Its height can be 5–10 m. The trunk reaches two centimeters in diameter. The ovoid leaf plates can reach 7–16 centimeters in length, they have a sharply serrated edge, and the veins have light red pubescence. The petioles are painted pale red. In male actinidia, the leaf blades have a variegated color, namely, in July, the upper part of the leaf blade turns white, then light pink, and then deep crimson. In autumn, the foliage also looks very impressive, as it turns purple-red and pink-yellow. This liana is dioecious. Fragrant white flowers on male specimens are collected in racemose inflorescences of 3–5 pieces, and on female specimens they are single. The length of the green fruits is from 20 to 25 mm, they can be eaten; in the sun they may appear bronze or light red. The fruits begin to ripen in August. Popular varieties:

1. Pineapple . This dioecious plant, characterized by rapid growth, is one of the most productive varieties. The length of the oval fruits is about 30 mm, they are green in color and have a red side. The pulp is very tasty with a pineapple flavor.
2. Doctor Szymanowski . This variegated plant of medium fruiting period is winter-hardy. Green fruits reach 25 mm in length and weigh about 3 g. The pulp is tender, sweet-sour taste with a pineapple-apple smell.
3. Gourmet . This medium-ripening variety was born relatively recently. The length of large fruits can reach 3.2 cm, while they weigh 4–5.5 grams. The taste is sweet and sour pineapple.

Also popular among gardeners are varieties such as actinidia Moma, Narodnaya, Waffle, Priusadbnaya, Prazdnichnaya, Slastena, etc.

Actinidia polygama

The trunk diameter of such a plant is about 20 mm, it reaches a height of 4–5 m. It is externally similar to Actinidia kolomikta. The elliptical, oblong leaf blades are pointed towards the apex and have a serrated edge. On the surface of the green plates there are specks of silver color; in autumn, the color of the foliage changes to yellow. White fragrant flowers are usually solitary and dioecious, but they are also bisexual. The fruits weigh about 3 grams and can be eaten. Popular varieties:

1. Apricot . The late ripening variety has moderate resistance to frost, and high resistance to diseases and pests. Such a plant is self-sterile (male specimens are required). The fruits are flattened on both sides, they reach 35 mm in length and weigh 6 grams. The sweet-sour pulp has a balsam smell.
2. Gorgeous . This variety is highly resistant to diseases, pests and frost. The green-yellow fruits have a strong odor and weigh up to 3.5 grams. The pulp is slightly sour.
3. Patterned . This variety is late. The elongated cylindrical orange fruits have longitudinal stripes on the surface that are barely visible. The smell and taste are peppery and fig.

Actinidia giraldii

Some scientists believe that this plant is a variety of Actinidia arguta, but its fruits are much larger and sweeter. In the wild, this species is extremely rare, so it is listed in the Red Book. Therefore, if you decide to cultivate this vine on your site, you will help preserve this rare species. Popular varieties:

1. Juliana . Late variety. The fruits are green, laterally compressed, weigh 10–15 grams. The smell of the pulp is pineapple-apple, it is sweet.
2. Alevtina . The green, barrel-shaped fruit is laterally compressed and weighs 12–20 grams. The sweet pulp has a pineapple-apple-strawberry smell.
3. Native . This variety is late. The short, barrel-shaped fruits are laterally compressed and weigh 7–10 grams. The pulp has a strong pineapple smell.

Actinidia purpurea

The birthplace of this tree-like powerful dioecious plant is China. This liana is shade-loving, and it is distinguished by lush flowering and abundant fruiting. The large sweet fruits are purple in color and ripen in the last days of September. This species has only one drawback - low resistance to frost. At the moment, only the Purpurnaya Sadovaya variety is available: dark burgundy oval-shaped fruits reach 25 mm in length and weigh 5.5 grams, the smell of sweet pulp is delicate marmalade.

Actinidia hybrid

This subspecies was born thanks to the breeder I.M. Shaitan from Kyiv. It was he who crossed actinidia purpurea and arguta. The result of this was the emergence of completely new varieties with high resistance to frost and very large fruits, which is characteristic of Actinidia arguta, as well as with the taste, smell and bouquet type of flowering and fruiting of Actinidia purpurea. After some time, specialist Kolbasina continued the works of Shaitan. Popular varieties:

1. Kievskaya Large-fruited . This is a late variety. Green, large, oval-shaped fruits weigh about 10 grams. Their tender flesh is very sweet.
2. Candy _ This variety is late. The oval-shaped fruits are green in color and weigh about 8 grams. The sweet pulp has a fruity caramel aroma.
3. Souvenir . The color of the fruits is red-green, they weigh about 8 grams. The sweet pulp has a candy-fig-fruit aroma.

Every year the following varieties of this subspecies become more and more popular: actinidia Hybridnaya Sausage and actinidia Hybridnaya-10.

Actinidia - Actinidia - types, varieties, use - part 1

Description

Actinidia kolomikta has numerous skeletal branches 2-6 cm thick at the base. The leaves are green, often variegated with spots, alternate, oval-pointed and sharply serrated at the edges, large, 10-15 cm long and 5-7 cm wide. Actinidia grows better and faster on a support. The average annual growth of shoots is 1.5-2 m. The root system is densely branched. The bulk of the roots lies in the upper fertile layer at a depth of 20-35 cm from the soil surface. Individual roots go to a depth of 120 cm.

Properties of actinidia

The composition of a fully ripened actinidia fruit includes fiber, starch, carotene, sugars, pectin substances, vitamins, mineral salts, phenol carbonic and organic acids, nitrogen-containing compounds, saponins, alkaloids and other substances that the human body needs. They contain vitamin C, and there is much more of it than in lemons, oranges and black currants. These fruits also contain vitamins A and P, and their seeds contain a large amount of fatty oils.

Experts advise eating such fruits for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, anemia, pulmonary diseases (including tuberculosis), rheumatism, vitamin deficiency, gonorrhea, scurvy, lumbago, colitis and caries.

Other parts of the vine are not without healing properties. For example, the bark contains cardiac glycosides and tannins, due to which it has a sedative, tonic, expectorant and hemostatic effect.

Actinidia is often used for belching, heartburn and other problems with the digestive system; it also has a mild laxative effect and improves the digestion of meat.

Based on this plant, the drug “Polygamol” was developed; it has a general strengthening property, it is also able to support cardiac activity and increase diuresis. For angina pectoris, actinidia tincture is used. Infusion and decoction prepared from the roots are used externally for radiculitis, painful joints and gout. The peel and juice of the berries improve appetite and have a wound-healing effect.

This plant is also used in the treatment of colds, bleeding, and also in getting rid of parasites. An ointment is made from the berries, which is used after bone fractures, and also for massages.

Contraindications

Any new product or drug should be used with caution. Actinidia has no special contraindications. However, those who suffer from varicose veins, thrombophlebitis, and also people with high blood clotting should avoid eating its berries. If you eat a lot of such fruits, it can cause the development of intestinal disorders.

Healthy recipes

There are many very useful recipes with actinidia, for example:

1. Infusion of fruits . Dried fruits should be placed in a container with water. They are cooked over low heat for 60 minutes. The cooled infusion must be strained. The infusion is consumed after meals in small portions; it helps prevent cancer.
2. Ointment made from berries , which has a restorative effect. Fresh berries must be ground very well. They are combined with crushed mustard seeds and a fatty base (for example, you can take lard). This ointment is used after fractures and during massage.
3. Bark decoction . 20 grams of bark must be crushed very well. Then it is combined with 1 tbsp. just boiled water and keep in a water bath for 30 minutes. The cooled infusion must be strained. If metabolic processes in the body are disrupted, drink this infusion 2 or 3 large spoons 3 times a day.
4. Infusion of flowers and foliage . Take 20 grams of crushed leaf blades and flowers. The mixture must be combined with 1 tbsp. just boiled water, then keep it in a water bath for a quarter of an hour. The cooled infusion must be strained. You need to drink the infusion 3 times a day, 1/3 tbsp. for angina and rheumatism.

Actinidia pureed with sugar is a source of vitamin C for the whole winter

The nutritional value

Kiwi contains a lot of vitamins (A, B1, B2, B6, B9, C, PP), as well as a wide range of useful substances (potassium, calcium, zinc, chlorine, sulfur, fluorine and others). The calorie content of kiwi fruit is 48 kcal per 100 grams of product. Berries contain fiber, starches, and organic acids that are beneficial for humans. The vitamin C content in actinidia fruits is 10 times higher than in currant berries.

How to plant seedlings correctly?

Planting of actinidia is planned for early spring; in the Moscow region, planting can be postponed to autumn. However, subsequent care for the young plant should be good. The seedling must be insulated for the winter. For planting, use a two to three year old plant. Work is completed 2 weeks before the expected frost.

In the Leningrad region it is more difficult to grow ornamental vines; the climate there is harsher. Planting is done in early spring, before the buds open.

Growing shrubs in Belarus is not much different; it is enough to properly care for the plant, and then a good harvest of tasty berries is guaranteed.

Predecessor cultures

Actinidia is a heat-loving plant, so it is important to choose the right place for it. You should not plant the bush in a draft or on the north side of the site. The ideal place for actinidia is an elevated part near a southern wall or fence. The liana grows well and bears fruit in a well-lit place, but it needs to be shaded from the scorching sun. The vine can be planted in light partial shade.

Most flower crops are good predecessors:

• asters;
• petunias;
• gerberas;
• calendula;
• leguminous plants that enrich the soil with nitrogen.

You can plant currants next door; they do not prevent the bushes from developing. However, actinidia cannot be placed near fruit trees. The soil becomes very depleted and dries out, and deep loosening can damage the roots of actinidia.

Important! Actinidia does not like wetlands, so it cannot be planted in lowlands.

Soil and planting site

The best positions for actinidia are warm, sheltered from the wind, sunny and semi-shaded places. You need to create suitable conditions in the garden.

Soil selection:

• Clay and alkaline soil is completely unsuitable for growing.
• In nature, the shrub grows on loose, fertile soil.
• Neutral or slightly acidic soil is suitable for vines.
• Actinidia does not like it when the soil dries out. You need to remember to water regularly, especially during the summer.
• Actinidia prefers fertile soil with a neutral or slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5.
• Ideally, planting is carried out in a well-drained bed enriched with humus and compost. Manure is not applied to actinidia.

Landing algorithm

To properly plant a vine, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Prepare planting holes measuring 60 × 60 cm.
2. Lay the drainage with a 10 cm layer of broken brick or other material.
3. Fill the hole with soil mixed with ash, superphosphate and humus.

The prepared holes are left for 2 weeks to allow the soil to settle, then planting begins. The seedling is carefully placed in the hole, the roots are straightened and covered with soil. The root collar is not buried. After planting, the tree trunk circle is mulched with sawdust or other organic matter.

If you need to plant several bushes, then be sure to leave at least 1.5-2 meters between them. It is very convenient to plant vegetative bushes with an intact root system.

When is it better to plant actinidia - in spring or autumn?

The optimal time is May, September and October (two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather). For spring planting, choose bare-rooted plants. Transfer the seedling into the ground at a time when the buds are still dormant and the leaves have not begun to bloom.

If the choice is made in favor of autumn, then plant actinidia in the first weeks of September or October, when the leaves fall from the trees and frosts do not become constant. During this time, the crop takes root and has time to prepare for wintering.