Planting seedlings in autumn: how to organize the process correctly?

Gardeners with extensive experience choose the time for planting certain fruit crops and know how to create optimal conditions for seedlings to take root and develop. Beginners in this business would do well to familiarize themselves with some rules and tips for planting in the autumn.

Let's start with the fact that you can safely plant trees of various fruit species in the fall in the southern regions of our country, as well as in Siberia and the Urals - although the climate there is harsh, the seedlings will be saved from frost by the early established delicate cover. As for the central regions and the north of the European part of the country, it is better to give preference to spring planting. If for some reason it is impossible to postpone it until the spring, you need to take care of protecting the seedlings before wintering by hilling up the seedling trunks.

Pros and cons of gardening in autumn

Autumn chores in the garden are a pleasant pastime. At this time, you can plant new plants on the site. Let's consider the positive aspects of planting seedlings in the fall in the Moscow region:

• Benefit

In autumn buy seedlings at a favorable price. Nurseries and resellers sell planting material that they dug up before sale. The buyer can evaluate the quality of plants by their appearance. A wide range and affordable prices explain the excitement among summer residents. You can purchase plants with the last leaves or fresh roots. You can see the fruits that the selected variety produces.

• Simplicity

Minimum hassle is another advantage. In some cases, plants only need watering, nature will provide the rest. In autumn it rains and the air is cool, so the seedling will feel comfortable in moist soil. The roots of a young tree grow until the soil reaches a temperature of +4 degrees Celsius. If the summer resident manages to plant the seedlings on time, they will be able to produce thin roots before the onset of frost. This approach will ensure faster growth of plants compared to those that were planted in the spring.

• Save time

Spring is the time when the gardener is actively involved in dacha affairs. If you have time to plant plants in the fall, then with the onset of warmer weather you will be able to pay attention to other problems in the garden. Residents of the southern regions often plant seedlings in the fall. This is explained by the fact that the winter is warm, the roots do not freeze, so the trees tolerate this season well.

It should be noted the disadvantages of autumn planting:

• The onset of severe frosts can lead to the death of young trees;
• In winter, seedlings will have to cope with bad weather - ice, strong storms, snow, and so on;
• Rodents actively seek to gnaw on plants precisely in late autumn or winter due to a lack of other food;
• The threat of theft or damage to seedlings by unauthorized persons increases due to the absence of owners on the site.

In any case, each summer resident decides for himself whether it is worth planting plants in the fall or whether it is better to wait until spring.

We dig in seedlings in the fall

If you are late with autumn planting, and the material for it has already been purchased, the seedlings can be preserved until spring by burying them on your site. This must be done correctly, without making mistakes that will lead to the death of the planting material or, at best, to a deterioration in its quality.

Seedlings should be buried at a significant angle so that the trunk covers two-thirds of the soil. The remaining part will be protected by snow cover, and the planting material will be preserved in this way until spring, like in a refrigerator. Choose the site for digging carefully. This should be a place where melt water does not accumulate in the spring. It is very important that both the planting material dug into the area and the area where it will be planted thaw at the same time. In the fall, a mouse repeller should be placed next to the seedlings, the seedlings should be watered, and covered with spruce branches on top. When snow cover forms, it is advisable to compact the snow around.

What trees should be planted in the fall?

What trees should I plant in the fall? Experienced gardeners recommend choosing the following types:

• Winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees;
• Black and red currants;
• Honeysuckle;

• Gooseberry;
• Nut;
• Chestnut;
• Poplar;
• Juniper.

You can also plant different varieties of conifers.

What trees should not be planted?

You cannot plant varieties of fruit trees and shrubs in the fall that are not winter hardy. It is best to abandon varieties of fruit and berry crops of southern selection. Also, do not replant oak and birch.

It is best to buy zoned tree varieties, otherwise they will not take root in the new location. Plants that were brought from the southern regions will not take root in the north.

Which plants can be planted nearby and which ones cannot? table. Other useful neighbors for vegetables

In addition to the neighborhood of one vegetable crop with another, it is good to consider other possible neighborhoods - vegetables and flowers, vegetables and herbs. Such combinations in garden beds are not only beautiful, but also useful.

Flowers next to vegetables.

Good advice: plant a few marigolds in the tomato bed; they repel pests. You can even decorate the entire perimeter of the garden with marigolds - this will help keep pests at a distance.

Some flowers act as pest traps, luring insects to them. Nasturtiums, for example, are very popular with aphids. These pests will prefer to feast on nasturtium and will not pay attention to nearby vegetables.

Vegetables and herbs.

Planting herbs nearby will give your vegetables a more refined taste. They also repel harmful insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans. Thyme repels cabbage pests. Onions and garlic repel aphids. Oregano, like marigolds, is a good all-purpose barrier against most insect pests.

When deciding which vegetables to plant nearby in the garden, you need to be guided not only by scientific data, but also by common sense. Lettuce, radishes and other fast-growing plants can be planted between melons or pumpkins. Lettuce and radishes will ripen before the pumpkin grows. Shade-loving green leafy vegetables such as spinach and chard are grown in the shade of corn. Sunflowers also grow well next to corn because their roots occupy different levels in the soil and do not compete for water and nutrients.

Well, let's move from the particular to the whole, and consider the successful and unsuccessful neighbors for each vegetable.

Turnaround time

Experts believe that trees can be planted at the end of September and throughout October. If the weather permits, you can do landscaping until mid-November:

• Central Russia: from mid-September to mid-October;
• Northern regions: from early September to early October;
• Southern regions: October to mid-November.

Weather is an important factor that influences timing. There is no clear time when landing in Moscow or the Moscow region is possible. There are warm autumns, the weather of which allows you to plant trees until the end of November.

Helpful Hint: It is best to plant plants during their dormant period. It comes when all the leaves fall off.

Gardening tips

In the conditions of Siberia, the Urals and central Russia, zoned and, if necessary, winter-hardy varieties are chosen for autumn planting. After all, they acclimatize and take root much faster. Fruit trees of the Ural and Siberian selection take root quite well when planted in autumn. Such trees include: cherry plum, rowan, apple, pear, mulberry.

Seedlings that are dug up prematurely (before their natural leaf fall) are usually endowed with immature shoots. Such plants almost always freeze slightly in winter.

If you buy a “beautiful tree” with a lot of leaves for planting in the fall, there is a risk of getting not only immature, but also overdried seedlings. After all, moisture loss occurs through the leaves.

The main thing to remember when planting is that plants should be planted at the most favorable time for them, so that the tree does not have to “sick” and “sit” in place for years.

If you treat planting and seedlings correctly, then when planted in spring, autumn or summer, the tree will reward you with rapid growth and a rich harvest.

✦ Gardener's secrets: How to treat rust on a pear and how to treat it correctly?

What to do if frost has already arrived?

There are situations when things don't go according to plan. You can be late boarding for various reasons - problems at work, lack of free time, the store did not deliver the goods at the right time, and so on.

In any case, do not be upset; you can save the seedlings until spring for further planting in open ground. The following storage methods can be used:

• Using a garage, cellar or balcony: the roots must be moistened and placed in a container with peat, sand or sawdust. The room temperature should not exceed +10 degrees Celsius, humidity up to 90%. It is recommended to water the plants once every 10 days;
• Digging into the ground: plant roots are buried in the area; after digging in the spring, the seedlings must be planted immediately;
• Storage in snow: seedlings are buried outside in snow.

Is it possible to plant cherries next to cherries? Good neighbors

When planting and choosing neighbors for it, you need to consider the following points:

1. Cherry has a developed root system with a large number of small surface branches. If the latter are damaged, active growth of shoots will begin. Therefore, it is not recommended to dig up the soil under the cherries - loosening is enough, and even not deep. Taking this point into account, it is recommended to plant low-growing flowers and herbs under trees.
2. Cherry trees, especially the varieties Taramis, Miracle, Besseya, do not like wet soils - first, when the water level is high, the roots begin to rot, then the tree itself dries out and disappears. It is important not only to choose hills and dry places for planting, but also to plant dense, low-growing shrubs nearby.
3. It is recommended to grow cherries on the leeward side, since strong gusts of wind during flowering can completely destroy the crop.

Elderberry not only does not have a negative effect on the crop, but also protects it from aphids. Read how to get rid of cherry trees on your property here.

The best neighbors, taking into account the above, are plum, cherry plum, and sloe, which should be planted at a distance of about 5 m from the cherry.

Trees in the garden grow best in groups, each containing a specific type of stone fruit. The disadvantage of this option is that from the outside the landing will not look very presentable.

Cherries are an ideal neighbor; apples can also be grown next door, but with a distance of 5-6 meters. Rowan, grapes, hawthorn are also “friends” of the plant. They will not interfere with each other’s growth and will not cause unnecessary trouble for the gardener during the care process. It is recommended to plant sweet cherries closer to cherries, since the former in this case acts as a pollinator (and the yield increases for both crops at once). Joint plantings of cherries and elderberries are productive - aphids cannot tolerate the aroma of elderberries, so they will not even come close to the fruit tree. Find out about the Radonezh cherry variety at this link.

Planting fruit tree seedlings in autumn and its benefits

Planting fruit seedlings in the fall is popular among domestic gardeners. The following are its advantages:

• Huge selection of planting material;
• The opportunity to evaluate the seedling and its fruits from all sides;
• The moisture and looseness of the soil makes it possible not to organize regular watering;
• Young plants have time to establish themselves in a new place, the appearance of young roots will contribute to rapid growth in the spring;
• Autumn seedlings are several weeks ahead of their spring counterparts in growth.

Why you should prefer autumn planting

Arguments in favor of planting trees and shrubs in autumn:

• at this time there is a very wide choice of high-quality planting material; a thorough examination of the condition of the roots makes it possible to select healthy seedlings of an optimal age for planting in the garden;
• planting work in the autumn requires less labor; as a rule, it is enough to water the tree or bush well once, and the rest will be done by the rains;
• active growth of the root system of young seedlings during this period will continue until the thermometer drops to +4°C;
• all dangerous pests in the autumn lose activity and prepare for hibernation and will not cause damage to new plantings;
• the planted trees will take root in the fall, and in the spring they will immediately begin rapid development, much faster than those just planted. In addition, in winter, young seedlings undergo good hardening and calmly endure the unpleasant surprises of spring - temperature changes or recurrent frosts.

Root formation stimulator Kornevin, 50 g

The main danger that lurks in autumn planting is the high probability of the young seedling freezing in winter. This happens when the gardener makes the following gross mistakes:

• planting a variety that is not adapted to the climatic conditions of the region and has low frost resistance;
• choosing low-quality planting material whose roots are dry or frozen;
• planting before the onset of the dormant period.

The last mistake contradicts the main rule of any tree planting - they need to be planted during the dormant period. In spring it is short, lasting from the moment the soil thaws until intense sap flow begins in the trunk and branches. In autumn, it begins after trees shed their leaves, when sap flow slows down in preparation for winter sleep. The autumn dormant period is longer, which is what gardeners take advantage of, preferring to renew and expand the garden in the fall. In addition, in the fall the cost of seedlings is lower, and you can find very good deals. If the winter turns out to be warm, then the seedlings will not only have time to take root before its onset, but will also increase their root mass. When planting in spring, as a rule, one season will be practically lost.

What fruit trees and bushes are recommended for planting in the fall?

The success of autumn planting greatly depends on how quickly the seedling takes root. The longer this happens, the less chance the seedling has to survive the winter. The rooting period of seedlings of stone fruit crops lasts longer than that of pome crops, so it is still better to choose the spring option for planting them.

Suitable for autumn planting:

• frost-resistant varieties of pears and apple trees;
• raspberries;
• gooseberry;
• honeysuckle;
• different types of currants;
• chokeberry

How to plant fruit trees?

It is best to choose the southern side of the site, where the groundwater level is low. If you have a small plot, then you need to take into account that cherries, apricots and peaches will not bear fruit well in the absence of light. Many species are quite light-loving, so this fact should be taken into account when purchasing planting material.

On a note! Stepped planting is a winning proposition: tall trees are planted in the north, low-growing trees are planted in the south. This arrangement will provide sufficient light to all plants.

When choosing a place for planting, you need to know the approximate dimensions of its root system and future crown. You also need to take into account the distance to communications and the main building. You should not plant fruit trees near communications at a distance of less than 4.5 meters. The thing is, you will then have to look for funds for repairs. The roots of an adult tree can damage the foundation, so close proximity to the house is also not recommended. Landscape designers recommend using vertical zoning.

The proximity of plants is another factor that should be taken into account when planting seedlings. Some species can help each other, others can lead to the death of their neighbor:

• An apricot next to a cherry will not produce good yields;
• Peach and cherry plum are bad neighbors for an apple tree;
• Walnuts cannot be planted near most fruit trees.

Proper landing is the key to success

It is better to plant fruit tree seedlings together. It is better to prepare the pits in advance; their universal dimensions are 1.5x1.3 m. The dimensions of planting pits prepared for apple and pear trees grafted onto vigorous rootstocks must be at least 120x80 cm, for plums and cherries - 100x60 cm. The pits for planting semi-dwarf and dwarf crops are much smaller in size - 80x50 cm. The size of the planting pit for a seedling with a closed root system should be twice the size of the container.

To protect the trees from spring waterlogging, you need to provide the plants with drainage. Its role will be successfully played by a 30-40 cm thick expanded clay cushion arranged at the bottom. Three buckets of well-rotted manure are poured into the hole on top, the bucket of soil removed during digging is returned and a couple of buckets of light plant soil are added. Pits prepared in this way are suitable for autumn planting of any trees, and they will not need feeding for a whole year.

Expanded clay drainage Bogatyr 20l medium

Do not add bird droppings or other nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the pit. In general, any fertilizers should be added with caution during the planting process, otherwise you risk burning the root system of the seedlings. It is better to refrain from this step altogether, and when the trees take root, fertilize them by introducing compounds rich in useful substances directly under the roots using a puncture method. If you can’t wait to do this at the same time as planting, you should separate the fertilizers from the roots with a layer of neutral soil.

Fill the planting hole one third with prepared humus and soil, lightly compact it, and water it. Dry soil is poured on top and the roots of the tree are carefully laid on it. A very important point - the root collar of the seedling must be exactly at the level of the soil surface, neither higher nor lower. To avoid any discrepancies, we clarify that the root collar is the place where the trunk borders the root system. This point where the trunk turns into roots should be level with the soil surface. Novice gardeners often confuse grafting with it. You can identify it by color. If you use a piece of damp cloth to wipe the trunk of a seedling near the root system, you will see a place where it changes color. This is the root collar.

To be sure, some gardeners check the position of the root collar in a very simple way - they place a short board on top of the planting hole and use it to control the level. If the root collar is placed high, the roots will constantly dry out, and eventually the seedling will disappear. If you deepen this point, then the tree will grow on a par with ordinary ones, but it will never bear fruit, despite flowering.

After planting, a day later, it is necessary to water the seedlings well. For small ones, 5 buckets of water are enough for each, for large ones - 10. Tree trunks need to be formed, and the soil in them is mulched using peat. The recommended thickness of the mulch layer is 5-7 cm

Seliger-agro lowland peat, gardening, 40 l

In winter, mice can feast on young trees, causing significant damage. To prevent this from happening, you need to take care of effective protection. You can scare away rodents with the smell of creolin. Buy it at any gardening store. Cut the old felt boots into small pieces, soak them in creolin and place them near the seedlings. Mice will not like this smell, and they will avoid autumn plantings.

When carrying out planting work, you must take into account the level of groundwater in your area and the type of soil. If groundwater lies close to the surface of the earth, then the roots of the seedlings may end up in the water. There are simple techniques thanks to which the root system of young trees begins to develop primarily in width, rather than in water-filled depth.

The experience of Soviet-era gardeners has shown that in this case, an effective way would be to plant seedlings in bulk beds and place them under the root system. For the same purpose, you can use sheets of flat slate. The roots of the trees will reach the artificially created obstacle and begin to develop to the sides. If you checked the groundwater level and it turned out to be less than 1.5-2.0 m, planting will have to be done on the ground surface and on earth mounds. This means that trees will have to be grown on dwarf rootstocks.

Flat slate 1500x300x8mm unpressed

If clay-type soil predominates in the area for planting, shallow but very wide holes should be prepared, their width will be 150 cm or more, depth - 30 cm. The roots in such holes are sprinkled with soil to a depth of 25-30 cm. On particularly difficult ones in this regard In areas, seedlings can be placed directly on the soil surface, covering the roots with a half-meter layer of soil. But for the winter, such high plantings will have to be insulated. If the frozen soil does not allow the seedling to quickly take root and grow its roots into the ground, then in winter there is a very high probability of it freezing.

How to organize a hole for planting a seedling?

The size of the seedling's root system affects the dimensions of the planting plant. For planting stone fruit species, the diameter of the hole will be about 40 cm, the depth - about 60 cm. Pome-bearing species will require a larger hole: diameter - 60-80 cm, depth - approximately 80 cm. If the plant has an overgrown root system, then the size of the hole must be increased . If this is not done, the roots will grow inward, which will affect development - the tree will get sick more often and bear fruit poorly.

When organizing a hole, the top fertile soil should not be mixed with the rest of the soil. It will be required for further use - mineral or organic fertilizers will be added to it.

The bottom of the pit should have good drainage. Crushed stone or river pebbles are suitable for this. Before planting, the plant must be inspected from all sides and dry, rotten root ends must be removed. If the tree has dry roots, then it should be left in a bucket of water for a day.

At the bottom of the hole you need to install a peg to support the young tree. Don’t forget about the roots, they need to be straightened out and only then covered with nutritious soil. Fresh manure is not recommended because it can damage the root system.

Selection of planting material

Autumn planting work has its own nuances. These include the need for particularly careful selection of planting material. For planting in the fall, we select seedlings aged 1-2 years, whose shoots have matured well. They should be completely lignified, with formed buds - this increases the likelihood of successful survival and withstanding winter cold. Three-year-old seedlings are not offered as often as younger planting material, but this is for the better. In three-year-old trees, the root system is already quite developed, and when digging up a seedling for replanting, the root system is severely cut down, causing significant damage to the tree, after which it takes root very poorly.

For autumn planting, you need to choose seedlings of regionalized varieties that tolerate cold well - for example, those bred by Siberian and Ural breeders.

We pay the most serious attention to the root system, especially when it comes to autumn planting of cherries and plums. Their roots are very vulnerable. They can freeze even when transported to the dacha at above-zero temperatures. The fact is that their absorbent roots are very sensitive to ambient temperature, and even 3-4 degrees above zero can greatly harm them, which will affect the rooting period.

Seedlings with a closed root system grown in special containers have a greater chance of successful planting in the autumn months. If you carefully and carefully remove them from the container, without damaging the roots, and transfer them to the planting site, the trees will hardly notice the transplantation. But to do this, you need to select high-quality seedlings with ZKS; their roots should stay tightly in a coma of earth, but not entwine it around. If the root system is a tight, tightly intertwined lump, this indicates that the seedling has long required replanting. The tree should not be freely removed from the container; this may be a sign of cheating by a dishonest seller, when a seedling grown in the ground is placed in a container before sale and passed off as more expensive planting material. If you doubt the seller’s honesty, it is better to choose a healthy seedling with an open root system. If you receive seedlings with dried out roots, keep them in water for a day before planting.

Apple tree seedling 2-year-old Orlinka

Caring for planted plants

Planting tree seedlings in the fall is simple. But do not forget that further care of the plants will be required. With the onset of the first cold weather, the seedlings will need to be earthed to a height of 40 cm. To prevent rodents from harming the young seedlings, they should be tied with spruce branches. You can also use metal mesh.

Rain and meltwater will be an excellent source of water. When planting in a hole, you need to add fertilizer. There is no need to add any mixtures over the next year. Moving is stressful for any plant, so in the spring it is best to cut the branches by a third. This will ensure that the plant directs its energies not to the growth of shoots, but to restoration.

What can you plant in October?

In October you can plant

a lot of things, the most popular are cold-resistant crops such as beets, dill, carrots, lettuce, parsnips, garlic and others. It is better to sow beet seeds when the ground freezes to a depth of 5 cm. It is recommended to maintain a distance of 20 cm between rows.

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Seedling nursery "Elite Garden" is a reliable partner for domestic gardeners

No matter what period you plant the seedlings, their survival rate largely depends on the quality. Healthy plants adapt better to new conditions. If you want to purchase high-quality planting material, you should use the services of a specialized nursery. A wide range of plants and affordable prices are offered by the Elite Garden nursery.

In this garden center you can order the planting of seedlings. The cost of this servant is +30% of the price of the selected plant. The nursery employs people with special education who will tell you how to properly plant and care for plants. You can check the availability of certain varieties by calling the number listed on the website. You can also find out the height of the seedling depending on its age.

The gardener is required to organize the correct planting of plants, nature will provide the rest. It doesn’t matter what time of year you choose, if everything is organized correctly, then the trees will thank you with excellent growth, beautiful appearance and high yields.

If you have any questions, you can contact representatives of the Elite Garden nursery, who will tell you how to help the plants adapt to a new place. Choose plants from a specialized garden center so that they bring everyday joy to you and those around you!

Features of winter sowing of vegetables

The most important thing you need to know is that if snow is blown away by the wind on your site in autumn and spring, during the period of heaviest rainfall, or in winter, you should abandon winter crops.

If autumn is very long, don’t worry, any winter vegetables, including radishes, can be sown all winter, as long as the road to the garden is accessible. Even in December or January, there are still sub-zero temperatures (-3-5°C).

The main thing is to prepare the beds in advance, because we will be sowing almost in the snow, sometimes after the first snow, on hard ground.

After harvesting at the end of summer, when the soil is soft and future plantings are planned, taking into account crop rotation, we dig up the soil, removing weeds. If necessary, we apply fertilizers depending on the needs of the crop. For example, carrots do not tolerate organic matter; we do not add humus or manure to their beds.

It is imperative to level the ground, break up large clods and make furrows in advance - on the day of sowing you are unlikely to be able to do this - the ground is frozen.

So, the holes have been prepared, you need to stock up on dry soil for sprinkling the seeds, pour it into buckets or bags and leave it in a country house or barn where it will not freeze.

On the day of planting, all that remains is to distribute the seeds along the furrows and sprinkle with prepared soil. If necessary, mulch on top with leaf litter, spruce branches or straw.

Is it possible to plant garlic in spring? Is it possible to plant garlic in spring - when is the best time to do it?

To obtain a high-quality harvest, you need to decide on the time to plant garlic. Most often you can find winter varieties that are planted in the fall. For spring planting, spring garlic is used.

For many years, debates about the advisability of planting garlic in the spring have not subsided. Experts advise planting the crop not only before winter, as is customary, but also in the spring. Each method has its own characteristics and imposes requirements for plant care.

Garlic harvest

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting

Planting garlic in the spring is finding more and more admirers. Experienced gardeners highlight a number of its positive aspects:

• it significantly increases the shelf life (for comparison, winter crops are stored for no more than 3 months, and spring crops – up to 2 years);
• with it, diseases and pest invasions are better tolerated;
• Germination increases due to warm soil.

For reference! The process of full development of the garlic head takes from 3 to 4 months.

Garlic cloves

The main disadvantage, first of all, is the low taste. Spring garlic has a less pronounced taste than winter garlic. In addition, the yield of spring planting is quite high, but still significantly less than that of autumn planting.

Spring and winter: what is the difference

Bulbs intended for spring planting have visual differences from winter varieties.

External differences

Winter garlic has an even number of cloves in the head: 6, 8, 10, 12. Externally, in cross-section, they look like a flower with a green core - the trunk.

Spring varieties are equipped with small cloves arranged in a circle - they are smaller in the center, and in each new circle they become larger. This variety does not have a trunk.

Technique for planting spring garlic

An important aspect of obtaining a high-quality harvest is the pre-sowing storage of cloves. At room temperature, the onion turns out to be large, but not fully ripe. The main reason is the shortening of the growing season.

Landing in the ground

At lower temperatures, the size of garlic decreases significantly, but the ripening process occurs completely. It is for these reasons that experienced gardeners advise combining both methods.

The best varieties for planting

There are more than 30 varieties of spring garlic on the market. Each region has its own special species.

In the middle zone, the following varieties have proven themselves to be excellent: Abrek, Moskovsky, shooting Gulliver. For hot southern regions, early varieties are selected: Victorio, Orlovsky. The most hardened types are suitable for the regions of Siberia: Permyak, Aleysky.

Landing dates

In early spring, as soon as the snow melts and the ground thaws, you can plant garlic bulbs. Timing may vary depending on the region and individual climatic conditions:

• for cold areas, planting is carried out in May;
• in the middle zone of the country it is better to plant in April;
• Planting dates increase for the southern regions - from late March to mid-April.

Advice. You need to wait until the soil dries to prevent the plant from rotting. The ideal time to open the planting season is the end of April.

Preparing seedling cloves

In autumn, garlic must be disassembled into slices and soaked overnight in a stimulating solution, for example, you can use “Kornevin”. The processed material is placed on any damp cloth or napkin, wrapped in a bag and put in the refrigerator. The bag should not be tightly closed - there must be constant air access to the planting material.

Preliminary preparatory work begins at least a month before disembarkation. Within 30-45 days, the garlic will begin to hatch. The first roots appear. When the root length reaches 5 cm, it is necessary to plant it in the ground.

Preparing the beds

In autumn, a whole bucket of humus is added to the soil, mixed with 3 kg of wood ash and 20 g of potassium salt. 14 days before planting garlic in the ground, the soil is re-fertilized - the composition is the same as for autumn fertilizing.

Advice! After all activities are completed, digging up the soil is mandatory. It is recommended to carry out autumn soil preparation for garlic.

Types of ornamental trees that can be planted in November

Planting coniferous trees in the fall can be more effective than in the spring. Planting a coniferous seedling in soil that has warmed up over the summer will allow the plant to better adapt to its permanent location. You can try to plant conifers near the house in the spring, but in this case the soil will not yet be warm enough.

In the fall, you can plant almost any coniferous trees on the site. Thuja and Canadian hemlock take root best. It is not uncommon to grow juniper, pine, larch, fir and spruce near the house, which winter well after autumn acclimatization.

Many summer residents plant deciduous trees near their houses. We can recommend autumn planting of almost any deciduous tree, except birch and oak. These trees have some peculiarities of the root system. The presence of a tap root without branches does not allow the plant to take root before winter frosts. For this reason, it is better to plant such trees near the house in the spring.

You may also be interested in an article about weeping conifer varieties.