Forcing tulips for the purpose of sale is profitable only when the amount of substandard “product” does not exceed 5, maximum 10%. If, with good care and compliance with all agrotechnical rules, the proportion of defects ultimately turns out to be much higher than the indicated figures, then the reason for this is most likely the wrong choice of planting material. In order for the tulip business to be successful, a novice flower grower needs to find out in advance which varieties of these ephemeroids are suitable for forcing (photos, names and descriptions of the best of them are presented in this article).
Tulip: varieties, cultivation, forcing
The content of the article:
- Wealth of varieties and species
- Landing
- Forcing
Tulips bloom in spring. Therefore, summer residents who are tired of the monotony of natural winter colors will certainly be in a complacent mood when they see such beauty on their site.
Not everyone knows why the flower is called that way. Translated, the word “tulip” means “turban”. This particular headdress resembles a flower. And it’s not without reason that its name has an oriental motif, because its homeland is Central Asia. For the first time, cultivated varieties of tulips were bred in Persia, and many poets of those places dedicated their creations to this flower. And in Turkey, tulips created a real sensation. They were bred by the Sultan's wives in the seraglios, thereby showing their love for the master.
Origin
Despite all their attractiveness and demand, such beauty as purple tulips are very unusual and rare guests on flower counters. Only their black counterparts are distinguished by similar uniqueness. While yellow, red, white and pink tulips have many varieties, purple tulips have only five to six varieties. This explains the increased interest and attention to this shade.
A wealth of varieties and types of tulips
There are so many types of these flowers that don’t exist today! You can grow tulips:
- simple;
- terry;
- fringed;
- parrots;
- green-flowered, etc.
The variety of colors is also pleasing. If earlier tulip lovers were content with specimens of red and yellow flowers, now, in addition to these, you can grow burgundy, white, lilac and even green tulips.
To decide on the tulips that you come to see on your site, let’s take a closer look at the varieties. If you want to grow simple tulips, which are also suitable for forcing in the winter, then pay attention to the best representatives of this group, varieties:
- Cooler Cardinal (red);
- IbisMon Tresor (yellow and pink).
Terry early tulips are suitable for forcing and bloom at the same time as simple early tulips - May 15–30. Here are some varieties of representatives of this group:
- Murillo. It has a white flower with a pinkish tint;
- Monte Carlo (yellow);
- Electra (red);
- Peach Blossom (pink-white with yellow);
- Double Toronto (terracotta).
Terry late tulips bloom at the end of May. These are the varieties:
- Nice. Yellow flower with red feathery spots;
- Mount Tekoma (creamy white flower);
- Miranda (scarlet);
- Symphony (purple-black flower).
Fringed tulips have different flowering periods, degree of terryness, color, and shape. Therefore, every gardener will be able to make a choice. These varieties are united by the fact that there is a fringe at the end of the petals, as if some magician made it with magic scissors. Here are some representatives of this variety:
- Lambada;
- Mascott;
- Lingeri;
- Cummins;
- Gold Dust.
Parrot tulips live up to their name. Their openwork petals are intricately colored and from a distance they resemble these exotic birds. These tulips bloom at the end of May. Here are the best varieties of this group:
- Black Parrot;
- Fantasy;
- Texas Gold;
- Red Champion;
- Rococo;
- Texas Flame.
The Triumph group includes tulips with large, goblet-shaped flowers located on tall stems. They bloom mainly in the 2nd and 3rd decade of May. Among the best varieties:
- Algiba (lilac-pink);
- Flaming Flag (white with a purple border);
- Karrata (carmine red and white with a silver border).
If you want to admire the flowering of these charming plants from the end of May or the beginning of June, then pay attention to the “Briderovsky” group of tulips, in particular to the varieties:
- Dillenburg (terracotta orange);
- Haze;
- Black Eagle;
- Grandma's sundress.
Lily tulips are called so because they resemble a lily in shape. They bloom in mid-May. Here are some varieties of this group:
- Arcadia;
- Aladdin;
- Jazz;
- Marietta;
- White Triumphant Marilyn;
- Tres Chic.
Green-flowered tulips have green fragments on their petals (mainly on the outer ones). Here are varieties that bloom late and will allow you to admire the blooming of tulips for a long time. This:
- Fleming Spring Green (has a white and red flower with green stripes);
- Deirdre (cream green).
Purple tulips - what do they mean? Bouquet of purple tulips as a symbol of fidelity
Language is one of the ways of communication between people. However, with the help of words, even people of the same country do not always understand each other. Sometimes it becomes difficult to express your vivid emotions and deep feelings. In this case, they resort to the help of a universal language that is understandable to the people of all continents - the language of flowers. Each shade of a plant corresponds to one or another emotion, mood and feelings. Purple-red, sunny yellow, soft pink, cheerful orange, noble purple or unusual black - all this diverse range belongs to tulips. These spectacular flowers are a true symbol of tenderness. A wide selection, due to the many colors and shades, turns bouquets of tulips into a universal gift that can be presented for any celebration or event.
If we talk about a plant like purple tulips, photos of them were often used on greeting cards in Soviet times. This is not just a picture, these flowers in the Middle Ages were a symbol of a person’s high status or expressed his belonging to the royal family. At that time, having a purple tulip flower on a piece of clothing was a real chic, since the bulbs of these plants cost the buyer a large sum.
Planting tulips
To be able to see such variegated flowers in the spring, you need to plant tulips at the end of the summer season - from late August to mid-October. It is better to choose a sunny place. In partial shade, the stems of this plant will stretch out, and the buds will not be as large as those of those specimens that grew in an open place and received enough sunlight.
Fertile soil is preferable. If it is loose, but poor in chemical composition, then you need to add 2 tbsp. l. complex mineral fertilizer per 1 sq. m. of dug up earth and embed it into the soil with a rake. You can use nitrophoska or granular fertilizer for flowers in the same quantity. If you don't have enough fertilizer, then you can pour a few granules directly into the holes.
The holes can be dug using a special device for planting bulbs or a sharp spatula. The depth of the planting hole is equal to three times the height of the specific bulb. Place coarse sand in a 1.5 cm layer at the bottom of the excavation. If you put fertilizer there, mix it with sand.
Since tulip bulbs are deep, do not plant them in low-lying areas where water accumulates, otherwise they may rot.
Inspect your tulip bulbs before planting. If they are poorly preserved, dried out or rotten, it is better not to use them. If the damage is minor, soak the planting material in a solution of red potassium permanganate or a fungicide, for example, in a solution of the “Maxim” preparation. After planting, this place is mulched with peat.
The growing season of tulips begins in the spring. Then there is still a lot of water in the soil left over from melting snow. Therefore, tulips do not need watering. If there was little snow in the winter and the spring was dry, then you can water the flowers infrequently.
If you added enough mineral fertilizers when planting the bulbs, then the tulips do not need fertilizing. If they grow little green mass or form small buds, then feed them in the damp soil with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.
After the tulips fade, do not cut off the green mass. It will help the bulbs form. When the stem and leaves turn yellow, then cut them off, leaving a “stump” 5 cm above the soil level to mark the place where the flowers were planted.
Then you will dig up the ripe bulbs, when the upper leaves turn yellow completely and the lower ones just begin, the peduncle becomes soft and easily separates from the bulb. And at the time indicated above, plant them again in the flower garden or in another place on the site.
But some species and varieties do not require annual digging. We'll talk about this in more detail below.
Characteristic differences
Despite their color, purple tulips received another name - fringed. This is explained by rigid needle-like protrusions of varying lengths located on the edges of the flower. In appearance, purple tulip flowers are very similar to rock crystal. In nature, the buds of these charming flowers are not so harmless. In conditions of decreased light or impending rain, the tulip's petals close, becoming a trap for inattentive bees and even huge bumblebees. However, purple tulips are not predatory flowers, so captured insects quickly find themselves free.
Despite the fact that purple tulips are a rare species, photos of these beauties are presented in large numbers on the global network, and they are also in our article. You can admire the colorful buds and cheer yourself up.
Forcing tulips
If you want to admire them not only in spring and late summer, but also in winter, then try growing them at home. Experienced gardeners receive blooming tulips from November to April.
When choosing a variety, purchase bulbs of a variety that is resistant to the variegation virus. After all, this disease leads to a change in the original color of flowers inherent in their variety. The infected bulb looks healthy; the disease can be detected later, when lines, spots, and dots appear on the tulip petals that are atypical for this variety. Bulbs infected with this virus may produce “blind” buds when forced.
Tulips of the Greig, Kaufman, Forster classes, some other species and certain varieties of other classes are not susceptible to this disease. Usually, in the description of each variety, the manufacturer gives not only characteristics of the plant, but also writes about its resistance to various diseases.
Also good for forcing tulips are the varieties “Maurin” and “Forgotten Dream”, which are Darwin hybrids, as well as “Parade Record”, which is suitable for different periods of forcing, is resistant to many diseases, forms a large flower and a tall strong peduncle.
Having selected the largest bulbs, decide on the timing. In order for tulips to bloom at a certain time, forcing is possible:
- early (to receive flowers for the New Year holidays);
medium (in this case, flowering will begin at the end of the winter holidays - from mid-January);
- late (flowering will be in February - March).
For early forcing, bulbs are planted from the end of August to the end of September. For medium, late forcing - in October-November. For early forcing, after digging up the bulbs, store them at a temperature of 20°C for three weeks, then 1 week at + 15–+ 17°C.
The soil must be moisture- and breathable. Fill clean containers 2/3 with substrate so that the soil layer is at least 10 cm. Plant the bulbs to a depth of 3–4 cm with an interval of 1.5 cm. The flat side of the bulbs should be turned towards the wall of the pot so that the large bottom leaf that appears does not interfere with the neighboring ones plants.
After watering the soil, place the containers in a cool, dark place where temperatures are low above zero (+5–+9°) and air humidity is high. Rooting and germination will occur in 16–22 weeks. Then move the bowls to a warm place and place them closer to the light.
The meaning of the color of tulips. How to choose tulips by color
Bright and delicate tulips appear in our markets with the arrival of spring. The rich palette of colors of these flowers amazes with the variety of shades.
Tulips come in a variety of colors (about 1800 shades): red, yellow, orange, white, pink, blue, dark purple, black. There are tulips that combine several colors.
Having decided to order flowers, most of us are guided by the appearance of the buds and pay little attention to the color of the petals. But the colors of tulips are fraught with certain meanings, which we will discuss in this article.
The online flower and gift store https://flowers.ua/ru/kiev will help you deliver flowers to anywhere in Ukraine and the world in a short time, and will also provide the highest quality of service.
Red tulips
In the language of flowers, red tulips mean a loving revelation and symbolize love. If the chosen one gave red tulips, it means he hopes for a reciprocal feeling, and his thoughts are pure and deep.
Pink tulips
Pink has always been considered the color of tenderness. The meaning of the color of pink tulips in a bouquet is a hint of tender and tremulous feelings that you do not yet dare to say out loud. Also, the color pink represents youth and its belief that all obstacles can be overcome.
Pink tulips in a bouquet say that there is no burning passion in love yet, but there are wonderful feelings filled with dreams and hopes.
Yellow tulips
Yellow tulips, thanks to the hit song by I. Nikolaev performed by Natasha Koroleva, almost immediately became a symbol of a long separation.
But people who are not prone to stereotypes associate a bouquet of yellow tulips with joy, sunshine, prosperity and good luck. Yellow tulips are given to artistic and creative people, thereby personifying the rays of success and glory.
White tulips
A symbol of love – pure and serene. Tulips have always been considered flowers that bring great happiness and good luck.
Forcing tulips
Blooming tulips. © Christina B Castro
Modern technologies now make it possible to grow this flower almost all year round. Tulips are among the best forcing plants. The desire to have blooming tulips before they bloom in the garden prompts many flower lovers to engage in forcing.
Care after flowering
In order to propagate purple tulip flowers, and subsequently grow a large, healthy bulb, it is recommended to trim the flower heads on the fifth to seventh day after they bloom, when they begin to fall off. In this case, the bulb begins to intensively increase its mass. Petals that have already fallen should be removed immediately, as they tend to accumulate in the axils and rot. It must be remembered that you should not cut the stem of a faded tulip until it completely turns yellow, since otherwise the bulb will stop developing.
What is forcing?
Forcing is a set of measures aimed at making plants bloom at unusual times of the year.
In our latitudes in winter, all plants are dormant, this is how they adapt to unfavorable winter conditions. Bulbous plants, including tulips, also go through a dormant period. Outwardly, it seems that at this time the life of the plant freezes, but complex processes take place inside the bulb and the organs of the future plant are formed.
By influencing tulip bulbs with certain factors, you can bring the plants out of dormancy and force them to bloom. Under the influence of certain temperatures during storage and the subsequent forcing process, tulips begin to bloom several months earlier than usual. For example, blooming tulips can be obtained by the New Year, Christmas or March 8th.
Since in nature tulips bloom only after going through a period of winter cooling (low temperatures promote the formation of substances in the bulb that affect the further process of growth and flowering of the plant), then during the forcing process a necessary condition is the exposure of the bulbs to low temperatures. The duration of exposure depends on the varieties used for forcing. On average it is 16-22 weeks.
Description of two growing methods
Both methods need to be considered in detail:
- Cooling at 5 °C.
Results of growing tulips
The essence of this method is that the bulbs are cooled without soil mixture for nine weeks before planting. The maximum soaking time for bulbs before planting in the ground is twelve weeks.
If a gardener wants to achieve a tulip blooming by the New Year or Christmas, then the bulbs should be planted for stratification no later than the beginning of September. At this time, garden centers have a huge selection of bulbs.
It is in September or October that bulbs, including tulips, are planted in open ground. After this, they hibernate and wait for warmer days.
At home, wintering occurs at an accelerated pace. The bulbs are immediately placed in a cold place, and an artificial winter sets in for them.
After 9-12 weeks of such maintenance, depending on the variety and period of forcing, the bulbs are planted in the ground.
Next, the bulbs begin to take root. For three weeks, containers with plantings must be kept at a temperature of 10-12 °C. This could be a heated greenhouse near the house or a glazed balcony. As soon as a sprout emerges from the bulb, the temperature should be increased to 20 °C.
About a month after the sprout appears, the tulip should bloom. Flowering lasts about a week. The use of additional stimulants such as HB-101 increases this period to two weeks.
- Cooling at 9 °C.
When using this method, the bulbs are immediately planted in boxes or pots. Together with the soil, they undergo cooling at 9 °C. In this case, rooting occurs simultaneously with stratification or cooling.
The first shoots of tulips in a pot
Shoots appear after three months. After this, the containers with the plantings are brought into a warm room with a temperature of 18 °C. The forcing period when using this method is ten days shorter. Tulips should bloom 20 days after sprouting.
Each method has its pros and cons. Many gardeners use the “nine-degree” method:
- Almost all varieties of tulips are suitable for such forcing.
- You can calculate the flowering time
- Constant temperature for almost the entire growing period
- When forcing in a heated greenhouse, there are fewer heating costs
The “five-degree method” is good because the period from the start of cooling to flowering is about four months.
When using the “nine-degree” method, this period extends to 5 months.
The choice of forcing method is often determined by the presence or absence of conditions.
Selection of varieties for forcing
For forcing for the New Year, only those varieties can be used whose cooling period lasts at least 16 weeks, that is, early-flowering ones. For early (by January) forcing, varieties such as Brilliant Star, Dixis Favorite, Christmas Marvel, Miles Bridge, Lustige Battle, Olga, Apricot Beauty and others are suitable.
for forcing in the middle period (February-March), in particular, tulips from the Darwin hybrid class: Diplomat, London, Oxford, Oxford's Elite, Parade, Scarborough, Vivex, Eric Hofsier, Apeldoorn, Apeldoorn's Elite and many others.
For forcing by April , the following varieties are used: Ad Rem, America, Apel-dorn, Apeldoorns Elite, Burgundy Leys, Vivex, Gordon Cooper, Daydream, Kis Nelis, Lin vam der Mark, London, Oxford, Oxford's Elite, Parade, Fringit Elegance, Hibernia, Eric Hofsier.
for forcing by May 1 : Aristocrat, Diplomat, London, Negrita, Oxford, Parade, Temple of Beauty, Hibernia. In addition to those mentioned, many other varieties can be used for forcing.
Cutting and storing finished flowers
Formed plants are cut off when they enter the colored bud stage. Do this in the morning, preferably before watering. Cut off with all leaves. At the very base of the flower. And they put it in a cool room where the temperature is +5 degrees.
If the flower stalks are not very long and the bulbs are not needed, then the tulips are pulled out along with them. You can cut off the bottom and clean the stem. This will lengthen the stem by 5–6 cm. And some leave the stem with the bulb and thus further extend the shelf life of the flower.
There are two ways to preserve blooming tulips when they can no longer be left in the ground, but you still need to prolong the flowering:
- dry method;
- method in water.
The dry method involves wrapping cut tulips in paper, several at a time, and storing them in the refrigerator. Without light and at two degrees they can be kept for half a month. To quickly bring flowers back to their senses after refrigeration, you should refresh the cuts and place them directly in paper in water. After thirty minutes the paper is removed.
With the second method, the water temperature for tulips should be no higher than 8 degrees. If you add calcium nitrate to the water with the flowers, the tulips will be stored better.
What is forcing?
The entire cycle of forcing work can be divided into three stages:
- Storing bulbs after digging from open ground.
- Rooting (at low temperatures).
- The actual forcing (growing tulips in a heated room until flowering).
The preparation of bulbs for forcing begins while they are growing in open ground: plants intended for forcing are carefully cared for, which will contribute to increased accumulation of nutrients in the bulbs. Care consists of performing a full range of agrotechnical measures and mandatory decapitation (for botanists, this concept means removing the growth point of plants).
Tulip bulbs. © Alamy
Madison Garden
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Fringed | up to 50 cm | Raspberry pink with yellowish fringe | 16-17 |
This variety of tulips bears the name of the famous New York sports complex, which has become a venue for iconic sporting events and concerts of world-famous show business stars. Madison Garden tulips, at once graceful and solemn, with their unusual fringed petals resemble the artist’s bright stage costume. If you want a holiday in your soul, be sure to try growing these tulips!
Storing bulbs for forcing
Temperature conditions are of utmost importance at the first stage of forcing (when storing bulbs). By changing the temperature in one direction or another, you can control the development of tulips and, to some extent, the timing of their flowering.
The temperature effect on the bulbs during storage consists of two stages:
- the first is exposure to high temperatures,
- the second - reduced.
The storage regime for bulbs prepared for forcing differs slightly from the storage regime for bulbs that will be planted in open ground. The storage regime differs significantly only for those bulbs that are intended for early and late forcing.
After digging the bulbs, which is carried out in the usual time for tulips, they are stored at a temperature of 20-23 ° C for a month. This temperature is considered optimal for the formation of flower primordia in the bulb. Then, for a month (August), the temperature is maintained at about 20 °C, and in September it drops to 16-17 °C.
Such storage temperatures approximately correspond to the average temperatures in these months, so during storage no special equipment is required to maintain the specified regime in the storage. Minor deviations from the indicated temperatures do not have a significant effect on plants. However, with significant temperature deviations in any direction, the process of laying flower primordia in the bulb slows down or anomalies appear in the form of “blind” buds.
The difficulty of forcing for the New Year is that by the time the bulbs begin to cool, all parts of the future flower must be fully formed. In the middle zone, the flower buds are fully formed by mid-August, and in cool and rainy summers this period may be delayed by another month. To speed up the formation of all flower organs and begin cooling the bulbs at the scheduled time, there are two methods: agrotechnical and physical-chemical.
The agrotechnical method is that tulips are grown under a film and the flowers are decapitated. This method allows you to speed up the process of laying all the organs of the future flower by 2-3 weeks.
The second method is to dig up the bulbs early. The bulbs are dug up as soon as yellowish spots appear on their covering scales. Then the bulbs are kept for a week at a temperature of +34 °C. This temperature also helps to accelerate the process of laying the organs of the future flower in the bulb. Bulbs prepared in this way are stored in the lower section of a regular home refrigerator from mid-August until planting.
The purpose of such preparation is to delay the development of leaf primordia in the bulb and thereby allow the primordia of floral organs to form in it more quickly.
Planting tulip bulbs for forcing. © Kevin Lee Jacobs
Hamilton
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Fringed | up to 80 cm | Bright yellow | 16-17 |
Yellow tulips are by no means harbingers of separation. The sunny color affects a person extremely favorably: it is the color of optimism, energy, and love of life. The variety of this fringed tulip is named after Lady Hamilton, a scandalous beauty who lived in Great Britain in the 18th-19th centuries. Bright buds with fringed petals look impressive and never go unnoticed, like the famous British one.
Planting and rooting bulbs
The substrate for planting bulbs can be any moisture-absorbing and breathable material with a neutral reaction. This can be pure river sand (Dutch gardeners use it), a mixture of sand and peat, pure peat, vermiculite, perlite or a mixture of sand and garden soil. You can even use sawdust as a substrate for forcing, but they do not retain moisture well, so frequent watering will be required during the rooting period.
In addition, the substrate for forcing must have a neutral reaction (pH - 6.5-7), so sawdust and peat must be limed. It is also not advisable to use garden soil in its pure form, without any loosening agents, since it becomes very compacted when watered.
The optimal substrate for forcing is the following composition: 2 parts garden soil, 1 part well-rotted manure or compost and 1 part river sand. It is useful to add wood ash to this mixture. It is better not to use soil from greenhouses, greenhouses, as well as poorly rotted manure - this is a favorable environment for the development of pathogens.
The prepared substrate is poured 2/3 into containers (pots, boxes, bowls) and lightly compacted. The bulbs are laid out on the surface of the soil at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from each other, while slightly pressing their bottoms into the soil. Then the bulbs are covered to the very top with prepared substrate or clean sand to the edges of the container. It is important that homogeneous planting material is planted in one container to ensure its simultaneous flowering.
After planting, the bulbs are watered generously. It is advisable to water them with a solution of 0.2% calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). If after watering the tops of the bulbs are exposed and the soil has settled, the substrate must be replenished. It is important that there is a small layer of soil above the bulbs, otherwise when they take root, the bulbs may bulge out of the ground.
We moisten the soil with tulip bulbs well. © Kevin Lee Jacobs
After this, the containers with the bulbs are transferred to a basement, cellar or other room with a temperature of 0 to 10 ° C (the optimal temperature is 5-9 ° C).
Why don't tulips bloom?
There are several reasons:
- low quality planting material;
- bulbs from your garden are not properly prepared for forcing;
- violation of periods of dormancy (low temperatures) and active growth (increased temperature, increased daylight hours);
- rotting of planting material in the absence of treatment of bulbs and soil with disinfectants;
- the florist dug the base for the bulbous plants at the wrong time;
- planting material was stored at too high or low temperatures.
Forcing mode
As a rule, tulips are transferred to a heated room for forcing 3 weeks before flowering. But it should be taken into account that the earlier the forcing is carried out, the more time should pass from the moment the tulips are transferred from a cold room to a warm one, and vice versa. Usually, by the time the plants are transferred to a warm room, tulip sprouts reach a height of 5-8 cm.
Containers with rooted bulbs are transferred to a room with a temperature of 12-15 ° C, while the lighting should be low for the first 3-4 days. If the tulip sprouts have not grown enough, they are covered with dark paper caps, which are regularly removed and the plants are ventilated. After 3-4 days, the temperature is raised to 16-18 °C and full illumination is given, while it is advisable to additionally illuminate the plants for 3-5 hours a day, and if there is a lack of sun, this is simply necessary, otherwise the tulips will stretch out greatly.
When the tulip buds color, the temperature is slightly reduced (to 14-15 ° C), which will extend the flowering period of the plants, the flower stalks will be stronger, and the flowers will be more brightly colored.
The plants are watered daily and fertilized with calcium nitrate from time to time. Fertilizing has a positive effect on the decorative appearance of tulips and increases the number of flowers. It is advisable not to keep containers with flowering plants in the sun, as this shortens the duration of flowering.
Apricot Parrot
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Parrots | up to 70 cm | Apricot | 15-16 |
It seems as if in the bud of a tulip of this variety you can see all the shades of the sunset sky: the apricot rays are beautifully scattered across the seemingly ruffled petals. This unusual flower shape is a sign of the Parrot class. An interesting feature of “parrots” is that their petals can be of almost any shape, except the classic one: wavy, twisted, split, crumpled. “Apricot Parrot” will surely appeal to lovers of exotic things.
Growing bulbs after forcing
There is an opinion among flower growers that the bulbs used for forcing are not suitable for further cultivation and are easier to throw away. But if desired, they can be grown.
When forcing low-growing varieties of tulips (with short peduncles), the flowers are usually cut off from the plants without leaving leaves on the bulb. In this case, 3 weeks after cutting the bulbs are dug up. If, after cutting the flowers, leaves were left on the bulb (when growing varieties with long peduncles, for example, from the Darwin hybrids class), then they continue to be watered and kept in maximum light until the leaves turn yellow. In this case, from some varieties you can get quite large replacement bulbs and large babies.
After digging, the bulbs are dried for 2 weeks at a temperature of 24 °C, then a month at 17-20 °C and then before planting in the ground - at a temperature of 14-15 °C. This storage mode allows you to keep the bulbs in normal condition before planting (they do not dry out and do not begin to grow prematurely).
After forcing, the bulbs are planted in open ground at the usual time for tulips. It is not advisable to grow bulbs used for early forcing, since they do not form large replacement bulbs and produce few large children. Such bulbs need to be grown for more than one year before they bloom.
Blue Diamond
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Terry | up to 40 cm | Purple-violet | 15-16 |
The neatly formed double satin petals of the “blue diamond” (as the name of the variety is translated) look bright and bold. The deep color is mesmerizing, it’s hard to look away from it. Terry tulips are called peony tulips because their petals are layered on top of each other, forming a bud similar to a peony flower. Blue Diamond is equally good for both forcing and growing in a flower garden.
Results of distillation 2022
Dear guests of my website, I would like to summarize the results of the 2022 distillation and talk briefly about each variety. I hope my efforts will be useful to you.
Let's start with the forcing on February 14th. Aphrodite is an excellent win-win option: inexpensive bulb, 100% yield, beautiful structure, high-quality cut. Suitable for both Valentine's Day and March 8th. We are ordering for next year too.
Good budget options for forcing on February 14: orange
Princesa Catharina Amaliya , white with purple Flaming Flag , cherry with a white border Kung fu , pink Jumbo Pink . Lap top , Purple Prince were kicked out of the purple ones .
Both of these varieties gave a good cut for both Valentine's Day and March 8th. On March 8 this year, Purple Prince was unexpectedly tall and grew to 50-52 cm. We continue to drive out the pink variety Irina and the red-yellow Hennie van de Most on February 14. Always a good cut. There is a video about these varieties on our website.
On March 8, many varieties were grown for the first time this year.
I really liked the raspberry Triumph varieties - Expression and Purple Raven . There are separate videos about these wonderful varieties. Both are tall and powerful (especially Expression). Expression's color is lighter, while Purple Raven's is a rich crimson. 100% high quality harvest.
We were not mistaken in choosing the purple Triumphs: Argos and Paradero . Both varieties produced a high-quality cut. Argos turned out to be a little higher than Paradero, and Paradero, as for me, has a more unusual color - catchy, bright. These are also referred to as “acid” and “luminescent”. The Argos variety has a slightly pinkish tint (lilac-pink), while the Paradero variety has a lilac-violet tint.
From the purple ones,
Ozon and Fortress .
Both varieties are medium in terms of flowering time, tall, even, and bloomed together. No topping or other diseases were detected. The color of the buds is similar, but the structure is different - in Fortress the buds are more elongated, larger and are located in the foliage. Ozon is higher. From violet-lilac with a white rim, the Librige variety was driven out. The variety belongs to the Triumph class. The crop bloomed on time and 100%. The tulip is tall and even. Average in power. Nice nice variety.
Donatello was distilled from the white and pink varieties - an excellent variety, a high-quality harvest, we ordered it for the next year. We grew some Mickey Chik in a similar color, but it was absolutely unimpressive—very thin and weak. We continue to grow Happy Generation from white and red ones. We are absolutely satisfied with the harvest, the decorative features of the flower, and the price of the bulb. From crimson tulips with a white rim, we continue to grow Down Town and Yolly - gorgeous large, powerful tulips with huge bright glasses. The main color of the buds is slightly different - Down Town has crimson, Yolly has crimson with a red tint. This year, as always, I was pleased with Circuit , the tulip was even more powerful than usual, and even with a large blooming baby. We will definitely order more. We also really liked the Kamaliya .
It is richer and darker in hue than Down Town and Yolly, the base color can be described as raspberry-violet with a bright white border. This year we also grew Stargazer - the color is rich and bright (raspberry-burgundy with a white rim), but the bud is not very large and the stem is not powerful. As for me, the bulb of this variety is unreasonably tall.
Lech Walesa had an excellent cut this year . Having been growing this variety for several years now, I can say that this is a win-win option: 100% yield, affordable bulb price, large, powerful, heavy cut.
Of the white varieties, as always, I am delighted with
Snow lady . A little smaller, but also a good variety Nepal . Of the new products, we tried Litouwen and dedicated a separate article and video to it, since the variety also turned out to be worthy. Among the red ones with a yellow border, in addition to the already well-known Hennie van de Most they kicked out Illusionist , Tarzan , Powerpla y.
We were not delighted with the Tarzan variety - we expected a powerful and large tulip, but in fact our expectations were not met. The price of the bulb is too high for a tulip with such characteristics - the cut was high, but the stems were thin and not very powerful. But I really liked Illuzionist. We will kick out next year too. Power play is also a good variety. Good combination of price and quality. Unlike Hennie van de Most, Illuzionist and Tarzan, Powerpley has a very thin yellow edge. Strong gold variety also produced an excellent harvest . The tulips this year were simply huge. We have not yet encountered any other yellow varieties more beautiful than Strong gold.
was kicked out of the red tulips . Good harvest for the 3rd year already.
Anna was kicked out of the red ones with a cream rim for the first time . I liked the quality of the tulip - thick powerful stems, large buds, recessed in the foliage.
From dark red
Curry , Pallada , Strong love , Strond power. All varieties are worthy of forcing. This year the Pallada variety was larger than ever, and the bulb of this variety is not at all expensive. The flower stalks, although not very thick, are very hard. We will continue to order.
Brigitta (Brigitta, Brigitte)
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Triumph | up to 50 cm | Yellow with red blush | 13-14 |
This variety belongs to the popular Triumph class. Typical features of Triumph representatives: a clear, goblet-shaped bud and a strong, tall peduncle. This variety is no exception. Brigitte's unusual coloring evokes the idea of a girlish blush: the petals resemble the blushing cheeks of a young, modest girl.
The best varieties for forcing: general recommendations for selection
Unlike garden flowers, which are freely placed in sunny, windy flower beds, greenhouse tulips grow in cramped and stuffy conditions, with insufficient natural light. In such unfavorable conditions, only the healthiest and most unpretentious plants can form strong flower stalks and large buds, therefore, for gardeners involved in forcing tulips for commercial purposes, the main criteria for choosing planting material are the unpretentiousness and disease resistance of the variety.
Attention! Varieties of four classes of tulips belonging to the Gesner group (green-flowered, lily-flowered, Rembrandt and parrot tulips) and Darwin hybrids, due to the weakness of their peduncles and some other specific features, are unsuitable for forcing at home!
In addition to the above qualities, you should also pay attention to:
- decorativeness (color, size and shape) of tulip corollas;
- duration of preservation of cut buds;
- biological characteristics of the class to which the variety belongs;
- Possible terms for receiving flowers.
“Christmas Marvel” tulips
In order to accumulate the biologically active substances necessary for growth and flowering, tulip bulbs need to be in the cold for a certain time. The duration of this mandatory cooling period varies significantly between varieties. Depending on this parameter, tulip varieties are divided into:
- early - capable of blooming for the New Year holidays;
- medium - having the opportunity to bloom buds for Valentine's Day;
- late ones - long-accumulating forces, suitable for expulsion by March 8th.
Lucky Strike
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Triumph | up to 60 cm | Red with white border | 13-14 |
Those who love contrasting color combinations (in this case, active red and snowy white) will certainly appreciate the Lucky Strike variety of tulips. The classic bud shape, inherent in all representatives of the Triumph class, does not look too strict due to the variegated color of the petals. The peculiarity of the variety is that the bud does not open completely during flowering.
Varieties for early and middle forcing
"Christmas Marvel" - according to the garden classification, it belongs to simple early tulips. Due to the fact that the bulbs of this old English variety require short cooling, its flowers can be obtained by forcing by Christmas. Marvel's corollas are goblet-shaped and quite large. The petals are painted a cool, deep pink color. The inside of the flower bottom is yellow, outlined by a thin white border.
“Cooler Cardinal” is a classic variety with low, powerful and durable peduncles. The elongated goblet-shaped corollas of this early simple tulip are painted in the same rich scarlet color as the robes of cardinals.
“Monsella” is a very unpretentious early terry variety, notable for the fact that each stem has 2 or even 3 buds. Golden, multi-petaled corollas of Monsella, decorated with scarlet touches, look very elegant and do not fade for a long time after cutting.
“Verona” is a very early, low-growing variety of double tulips, the flowers of which are so lush and beautiful that at first glance they can be mistaken for vanilla-yellow roses or cream peonies.
Tulips "Apricot Beauty"
“Ruby Red” is a classic of the genre, tulips with medium-length powerful peduncles topped with large, goblet-shaped crimson buds. After cutting, the flowers of this variety retain their shape for a long time and do not fade.
"Flair" is a medium-growing early variety with very bright, catchy flowers. The shape of the Flair buds is traditional, goblet-shaped, but due to the fact that their fiery scarlet petals are decorated with a wide golden border, the tulips look extremely elegant.
"Prince Carnival" is one of the most disease-resistant and beautiful simple varieties. The canary-yellow, pointed petals of the “Prince” flowers are covered with “ragged” scarlet streaks below, which gives the impression that the corollas of the tulips are engulfed in flames.
“Epricot Beauty” is a masterpiece variety that has occupied the top positions in various flower charts for many years and is in high demand on the market. Emitting a delicate aroma, the elegant large corollas of this tulip are colored salmon-pink or soft peach. The flower bases of "Apricot Beauty" are creamy white, edged with a thin lemon-yellow border.
“Black Jack” is an exotic variety whose corollas are painted such a rich dark purple color that from a distance they appear black. The peduncles of “Jack” are powerful and quite tall (45-60 cm). In addition to the unusual color of the petals, the variety is notable for the fact that after cutting its buds do not wither for a long time and retain their shape.
Tulips "Abu Hasan"
"Ronaldo" is another non-trivial tulip variety with large, goblet-shaped bright purple flowers. “Ronaldo” is very unpretentious, and therefore produces the highest quality distillation in any conditions.
“Abu Hassan” is a very beautiful medium-sized Dutch variety with buds of an unusual color for tulips. Crimson-chocolate, with a wide ocher-yellow border, the petals of “Hasan” are similar in color to autumn maple leaves.
Hemisphere (Hemisphere)
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Triumph | up to 70 cm | White with pink touches | 15-16 |
The Hemisphere tulip is the embodiment of tenderness and at the same time variability. This is a chameleon flower. Look at its amazing coloring: at first, the milky-white petals are covered with gradually emerging soft pink strokes, as if left by the brush of an unknown artist. Later, the bud begins to darken and becomes dark pink.
Varieties for late forcing
“Alexander Pushkin” is a variety with strong, medium-height peduncles and large cupped corollas. The tulip petals are painted in a warm purple color and decorated with a thin snow-white border.
“Barcelona” is a variety from the “classics of the genre” series. Tulips with tall, sixty-centimeter peduncles, on which lilac-pink goblet buds proudly rest.
"White Dream" is another classic Dutch variety with large, creamy white corollas.
Tulips "Tom Pause"
"Hunter" is a variety without any frills. Tulips with bright scarlet buds and powerful long flower stalks are ideal for cutting.
“Tom Paus” is a very elegant, “festive” variety, with bright large corollas and tight, erect peduncles. The petals of "Tom" are two-colored - coral-pink at the tips and orange-golden at the base.
"Menton" is a variety from the category of simple late tulips. The dense, cone-shaped buds of “Mentone” are painted in a delicate warm pink color, smoothly turning to the edges of the petals into a light apricot color.
Forcing bulbs is a troublesome task, but not particularly difficult technologically. Having mastered the cultivation of the above varieties, the easiest to care for, you can go further and try to drive out lily-flowered or parrot tulips.
Gander's Rhapsody
| Class | Plant height | Petal coloring | Cooling time (weeks) |
| Triumph | up to 50 cm | Soft pink | 13-14 |
Tulips of this variety tend to change color over time. At first, the deep pink bud has only light veins visible. Then the base of the petal becomes milky white, and a little higher are pink blotches resembling small splashes. Ganders Rhapsody is suitable for those who prefer restraint and at the same time sensuality.
