Forcing tulips at home: step-by-step instructions and rules of agrotechnical measures

Growing tulips for March 8 or Valentine's Day in your home is not as difficult as it may seem to inexperienced gardeners. Living in a private house makes the task much easier, however, in an apartment you can also achieve the appearance of spring flowers with delicate buds.

The article contains useful tips and a detailed description of all stages of such an interesting process as forcing tulips at home. Step-by-step instructions indicating the timing, rules for preparing the bulbs and soil, and a description of agrotechnical measures will help to avoid mistakes.

Forcing tulips for the New Year: the best varieties and technology

In nature, tulips bloom only after undergoing winter cooling. A low temperature promotes the formation of physiologically active substances in the bulb, which affect the entire further process of development and flowering.

A necessary condition for forcing tulips is also the exposure of the bulb to low temperatures for 16-22 weeks, depending on the variety.

Varieties with a short cooling period of no more than 16 weeks are suitable for forcing for the New Year: Abra, Gander, Dix Favorite, Corona, Christmas Marvel, Lustige Witwe, Apricot Beauty and others.

The table below shows the characteristics of tulip varieties for forcing for the New Year using 9-degree technology.

Table “The best varieties of tulips for forcing for the New Year”:

The complexity of the technology for forcing tulips for the New Year is that by the time cooling begins (August 15), all parts of the flower, including the pistil, must be fully formed (the so-called stage G).

In the middle zone, the completion of this stage occurs in mid-August, and in cool and rainy weather it may be pushed back to the end of the month. To avoid errors, the beginning of cooling is determined by the completion of stage G with a longitudinal section of the control bulbs and their visual examination under a microscope or binocular magnification (magnification 30-40 times).

There are two ways to speed up the preparation of bulbs for cooling: agrotechnical and physical-thermal. According to the first method, tulips are grown under film. Flowers are not cut, but decapitated.

This agrotechnical technique speeds up the process of formation of all flower organs by 2-3 weeks and allows you to begin cooling at the scheduled time without the risk of getting a bouquet of “blind” buds for the New Year.

In the second method of preparing bulbs for flowering for the New Year, they are dug up earlier, as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the covering scales of the young bulb are juicy and white with yellow spots appearing.

Before forcing tulips for the New Year using this method, the bulbs are stored for a week at a temperature of + 34 °C. The meaning of this temperature effect is to accelerate the beginning of the formation of the flower primordium.

From August 15 until planting, prepared bulbs are stored dry in the lower compartment of a household refrigerator. Planting takes place no earlier than September 20, when the temperature in the cellar or basement drops to +9 °C.

Forcing in water

Another method of forcing tulips is hydroponics, but the bulbs after this are not suitable for growing. The method is used if there are no containers with substrate. Planting material is placed in glasses with water, after placing a plywood mug with a hole in the bottom on the bottom. The water level should be a couple of centimeters below the bottom. Instead of plywood, you can use expanded clay. There must be an air gap between the water level and the bulbs.

Related article:

Growing and caring for tulips in the garden

To prevent the plants from rotting, place an activated carbon tablet at the bottom.

The glasses are transferred to a dark room with a temperature of 4-6 degrees. If the room is light, the containers are covered with caps. Water is regularly added to the initial level by releasing a stream along the wall of the glass.

In a couple of months a sprout will appear. When the stem reaches a length of 10-12 cm, the plants are transferred to a warm, bright place with a temperature of 12-14 degrees. Knowing how long it takes for tulips to emerge, you can calculate the appearance of buds. When planted in October, the flowers will bloom in early March.

Popular varieties of tulips for forcing by March 8: photos, names and characteristics

Most varieties from the Darwin hybrid class are suitable for forcing by March 8: Ad Rem, Ivory Floradale, Apeldoorn, Apeldoorn Elite, Beat Chief, Vivex, Golden Apeldoorn, Diplomat, London, Oxford, Oxford Elite, Parade, Scarborough, Forgotten Dreams, Eric Hofsue and a number of others.

In the Triumph class, most varieties also give good results. Particularly easy to kick out are: Abra, Abu Hassan, Atraitnes Dele, Barcelona, ​​Gavota, Guus Papendrecht, Kantor, Kis Nelis, Leo Visser, Lustige Witwe, WhiteDream and many others.

Of the other classes suitable for forcing tulips by March 8: Aladdin, Angelica, Aristocrat, Hamilton, Davenport, Dallas, Carmine Perrot, Liene, Marjolein, Monte Carlo, Picche, Purissima, Stockholm, Fabio, Fancy Frills, Fringeit Elegance, Etna and other.

The table below shows the characteristics of varieties for forcing by March 8 using 9-degree technology.

Table “The best varieties of tulips for forcing by March 8”:

These photos show varieties of tulips for forcing, the names of which are given in the table:

Which varieties to choose

For the procedure to be successful, you need to choose the right varieties of flowers. Not all of them are suitable for winter growing. In addition, the time by which you want to get flowering plants also plays a role.

For the New Year

Early flowering varieties are suitable for this, as their cooling period is only 16 weeks. These varieties include Apricot Beauty, Christmas Marvel, Diamond Star and others (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Varieties for growing for the New Year: 1 - Apricot Beauty, 2 - Christmas Marvel, 3 - Diamond Star

These same species are also suitable for growing for Christmas, as they have a sufficient flowering time to maintain buds in late December and early January.

By March 8

Crop varieties that can bloom in late February or early March belong to the Darwin hybrid species.

These plants have very diverse petal colors, and the thickness of the stems allows them to be used not only as green decoration, but also for cutting.

Figure 3. Varieties for cultivation by March 8: 1 - Oxford, 2 - Diplomat, 3 - Scarborough, 4 - Vivex

Popular varieties of this type include Oxford, Diplomat, Eric Hofsue, Scarborough, Vivex and others (Figure 3).

By April

Varieties intended for cultivation by April require more care. Firstly, they are exposed to low temperatures longer. And secondly, after this they need to be properly warmed up to activate growth and flowering.

Figure 4. Varieties for cultivation by April: 1 - Ad Rem, 2 - Gordon Cooper, 3 - London, 4 - Parade

The varieties for such cultivation are also quite diverse. Among them are Ad Rem, Gordon Cooper, London, Daydream, Parade and Oxford Elite (Figure 4).

By May

The cultivation of tulips by the beginning of May is carried out mainly using late-flowering varieties. However, subject to certain conditions, other types can be used.

Figure 5. Varieties of tulips for May: 1 - Aristocrat, 2 - Negrita, 3 - Hibernia

The most popular varieties are Aristocrat, Negrita, Parade, Hibernia and others (Figure 5).

Effective technology for forcing tulips by March 8 (with video)

To force tulips by March 8, the bulbs are planted in boxes on October 1-5. In this case, before transferring the boxes on February 5-7 to a warm room, the bulbs are cooled for 18 weeks, which is quite enough for Darwin hybrids that have the specified cooling period, as well as varieties of other classes.

Darwin hybrids with a longer cooling period and late varieties of other classes are exposed to low temperatures earlier, placing them in the lower compartment of a household refrigerator on September 1-10 and planting them at the specified time.

To effectively force tulips by March 8, you can do without a refrigerator by planting the bulbs on October 1 and freezing them for several days at a low negative temperature, after which the boxes are removed to a permanent rooting site.

This technique reduces the cooling time by 1.5-2 weeks. You can reduce the cooling time by another 1.5-2 weeks if you soak the bulbs in a 0.5% gibberellin solution for 24 hours before planting.

A similar effect is achieved by watering tulip seedlings three times with a 0.1% concentration of gibberellin. Watering with a gibberellin solution not only speeds up the flowering time (shortens the cooling period), but also increases the height of the peduncle by 5-7 cm.

The step-by-step technology for forcing tulips by March 8 is demonstrated in this video:

Problems during cultivation

Problems in forcing can arise if its rules .

1. The buds look like paper. Reduce the temperature and ventilate the greenhouse regularly.
2. Drooping flowers indicate too high a temperature.
3. Weak peduncles - night temperature exceeds daytime, lack of calcium.
4. Poor rooting of bulbs - too low humidity .
5. Bulbs rotting after planting - soil that is too warm.
6. Pasture only a leaf without a peduncle - the bulbs are planted too small.

Which tulips are suitable for forcing by April 1 and May 1

You can get beautiful flowers at other times that are unusual for these crops.

For forcing by April 1, the bulbs are not pre-cooled and are planted in boxes in mid-October. Also, bulbs for forcing by May 1 are not pre-cooled. Planting takes place in early November.

What varieties of tulips are suitable for forcing by April 1 and May 1?

For forcing by April 1, the following varieties are used: Abra, Ad Rem, Apeldoorn, Apeldoorn Elite, Aristocrat, Burgundy Lace, Vivex, Gordon Cooper, Daydream, Diplomat, Kantor, Kis Nelis, Lin van der Mark, London, Oxford, Oxford Elite, Parade, Fringeit Elegance, Eric Hofsu.

Popular varieties of tulips for forcing by May 1 are: Aristocrat, Diplomat, Zombie, London, Negrita, Oxford, Parade, Temple of Beauty.

Look at the photos of tulip varieties for forcing by April 1 and May 1:

Cooling period for tulips

Containers with planted bulbs are placed in a room (basement or refrigerator) with a stable temperature of +9 ° C and air humidity of 60-70% for rooting. For different varieties, the rooting period can range from 13-14 to 20 weeks. During the period of cold storage, the plantings are periodically inspected and watered. If temperatures fluctuate, growth can be curbed by covering the plantings with snow instead of watering.

To place them in a household refrigerator, pots of tulips are pre-packed in a plastic bag.

How to drive out tulips: basic methods

There are two main methods of forcing. The so-called classic, when the bulbs are cooled at a temperature of +9 °C and the method, which has become widespread in Holland, and recently in other countries, when the bulbs are cooled at a temperature of +5 °C.

When forcing tulips using the 5-degree technology, the temperature is maintained with an accuracy of 0.5 °C, which is easily achieved in large flower farms that have the necessary equipment.

Among amateurs, the most common method of forcing is the 9-degree technology. With this method, tulips can be planted in boxes, pots or directly into the ground. Bulbs are planted in early October.

The planting density is 2.5-3 times higher than with conventional cultivation of tulips in the ground, i.e. 250-300 bulbs per 1 m2. With the onset of frost, the ridges are mulched with peat. From mid-January, a plastic film is stretched over a pre-prepared frame, and the greenhouse begins to be heated.

The snow is not removed, and it melts as temperatures rise. Melt water is a good stimulator for the growth of tulips.

A notable feature of this method is the freezing of the bulbs at a temperature close to zero or even below 0 ° C, and such freezing not only does not negatively affect the forcing process, but, on the contrary, has a beneficial effect and the tulips bloom together.

Despite its simplicity, this method can hardly be considered rational, because it requires a lot of heat. It is acceptable in regions with mild climates.

For the amateur gardener, of course, the method of forcing in boxes is more accessible and acceptable, since in this case it is easier to choose a room both for rooting and for subsequent forcing. For rooting, you can use a basement, cellar or some other room.

You can drive it out in a room, a warm barn, an insulated attic or garage, and even in a cellar under artificial lighting. With sufficient illumination and duration, the color saturation of the flower does not decrease, and in the Eric Hofsue variety it even increases.

Features of care

During the forcing process, you must carefully monitor the bulbs so that they do not dry out or freeze. Especially if the container with tulips is on a glassed-in loggia or balcony, where the temperature may be unstable. The soil should not dry out completely. Periodically check the condition of the soil and, if necessary, moisten it a little. Inspect the bulbs at least once a week.

Overmoistening the substrate is unacceptable, otherwise the bulbs will rot.

After the emerging sprouts reach a height of 4-5 cm, the container can be exposed to light. This usually happens in early February.

For further forcing, an indoor window sill is best suited, since it is here that the temperature required for tulips during this period is maintained at 15-18 °C.

However, direct sunlight should not hit the plants. If your apartment only has a south-facing window sill, organize shading using a sheet of white paper or gauze.

At the initial stage of growth, tulips can be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea solution according to the instructions). At the time when the buds begin to appear, you can add potassium sulfate or calcium nitrate.

There is no urgent need to apply fertilizers if suitable soil was taken for forcing and the bulbs themselves are large enough.

Composition of soil for forcing tulips using 5- and 9-degree technology

Before you drive out the tulips, you need to prepare the right soil. As a substrate, you can use clean river sand, peat, sawdust, soil, perlite, but each of them has its own disadvantages.

Sawdust does not hold water well and requires frequent watering during the rooting period and subsequent cooling. In addition, sawdust, like peat, must be limed. The soil from the site becomes compacted during irrigation.

The most optimal soil composition for forcing tulips is: 2 parts turf or garden soil + 1 part river sand + 1 part completely decomposed manure or compost. The substrate is mixed and wood ash is added to it at the rate of 1 cup per standard forcing box.

A mandatory requirement for any substrate for proper forcing of tulips is its breathability and sterility. You cannot take soil from greenhouses, compost heaps, or from the garden, especially where tulips grew. If the substrate is infected, no treatment of the bulbs will help, and a significant part of the flowers will be destroyed.

Preparation of a complete substrate and the use of fertilizers during the forcing process undoubtedly increases the percentage of flowering plants and improves the decorative qualities of flowers. However, it should be remembered that the availability of adequate planting material is still crucial for successful forcing.

As planting material, use “extra” or first-harvest bulbs weighing at least 30 g for varieties of the Darwin hybrid class and at least 25 g for varieties of other classes.

You can use bulbs of the 2nd selection only of certain varieties, and it is not advisable to use bulbs of the 3rd selection at all, because The decorative qualities of flowers and flowering productivity are sharply reduced.

Before planting, the bulbs should be cleared of covering scales for two reasons:

• Firstly , the roots penetrate the substrate more easily, and the bulb takes root faster, while with dense covering scales, they begin to grow along the bulb, pushing it upward, which leads to a deterioration in the decorative qualities of the flower.
• Secondly , removing scales allows you to identify subtle signs of disease. Such bulbs should be pickled, after which they are planted for forcing. Planting material with strong signs of damage is rejected.

Landing dates

Bulbs are planted at different times: the period depends on the date by which it is important to obtain delicate tulips. Growing spectacular flowers takes about 4.5 months, you need to focus on this figure.

Popular holidays and bulb planting periods:

• February 14 (Valentine's Day, Valentine's Day). Early October.
• February 23 (Men's holiday, Defenders of the Fatherland Day). October 10–12.
• March 8 (Spring Festival, International Women's Day). From 15 to 20 October.

The best option is hardening and rooting of planting material in a cool room, then moving it to a windowsill, heated veranda or room. This method, if the rules of cultivation are followed, gives good results.

Step-by-step instructions for forcing tulips: bulb storage mode

In accordance with the step-by-step instructions, the cycle of work on forcing tulips is divided into three stages:

• Storing bulbs after digging and before cooling begins.
• Rooting (at a temperature of +9 °C)
• Forcing (growing in a heated room).

The following is a step-by-step description of forcing tulips.

The storage regime for bulbs intended for forcing is somewhat different from the storage regime for planting material intended for planting directly in open ground. This is due to the need for preliminary preparation of the bulbs.

There are significant differences only in bulbs intended for early and late forcing. For bulbs selected for forcing by the beginning of March, the storage regime does not undergo significant changes.

After digging, which is carried out at the usual time, the bulbs are stored for a month (July) at a temperature of 21-23 ° C, then in August the temperature is maintained at 20 ° C, and in September it drops to 17 ° C.

Small temperature fluctuations do not have a significant effect. The indicated storage temperatures approximately correspond to average natural temperatures, i.e. planting material can be stored in an unheated room without special devices for maintaining and regulating a given regime.

However, with significant temperature fluctuations, product quality will decrease.

If forcing is carried out with pre-cooling, then the storage temperature from the beginning of September is reduced to +9 ° C, placing the bulbs in the lower compartment of the refrigerator. There they remain until the beginning of October, after which both chilled and non-chilled bulbs are planted in boxes with substrate. Further, the forcing technology in both cases is no different.

Pros of a greenhouse

Growing tulips in a greenhouse is not a difficult task if you know the technology and strictly follow it. If you love these flowers and want to make money, then greenhouse growing is for you. If you like to tinker with flowers at all, breeding is something you can start with and make it your hobby.

This method of growing allows you to get flowers at any time of the year, and even just in time for the holidays, when they are traditionally in demand . In order to obtain beautiful and varied flowers, several conditions must be met. This is the choice of variety, planting material and compliance with the technology of growing tulips in a greenhouse.

Find out all about how to make a holiday bouquet varied and please your loved ones with fresh flowers from the greenhouse. We bring to your attention detailed materials on how to grow roses and chrysanthemums in a greenhouse.

How to force tulips: description of planting in boxes and rooting

It is convenient to use wooden or plastic boxes for forcing tulips. The size can be any. Depth - at least 10 cm, preferably a little more (12-14 cm). An indispensable requirement for wooden boxes is the presence of cracks measuring 4-5mm.

These slots are needed both to drain excess water and to improve aeration (air access) of the root system. When the distance between the planks is 1-2mm, they swell, drainage deteriorates sharply, and due to prolonged waterlogging during flowering, drooping of peduncles (topping) may be observed.

The height of the support posts of the boxes must be at least 20cm. During the cooling and rooting period, the boxes are placed in stacks, and high support posts protect the sprouts from damage.

To obtain high-quality cuttings when using the above substrates, it is necessary to have ideally prepared planting material grown in open ground on neutral soils with sufficient saturation with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and microelements.

If there is a lack of calcium in the soil, plants may lie down during forcing and are more susceptible to topping. Removing the flower head is mandatory. The selection of bulbs should be determined by the smallest diameter.

Often, amateur gardeners determine the analysis of bulbs by their largest diameter. In this case, the preparation of a complete substrate is of great importance for all subsequent distillation.

As studies conducted in the USSR, USA, Japan, England, Poland have shown, tulip bulbs, already in the process of rooting, even before the sprouts appear, begin to intensively absorb nutrients from the substrate and, above all, nitrogen.

The intensity of nitrogen absorption during the rooting period is even higher than during the growing season. If there is a lack of nitrogen in the uterine bulb and it is impossible to obtain it in the required quantity during the rooting and growing season, the flower stalks become bent and lie down.

Before planting tulips for forcing, the prepared mixture is poured into boxes in a 5cm layer, lightly compacted and the bulbs are laid out on it at a distance of 0.5cm from each other. Then the bulbs are covered with substrate or clean sand to the edge of the box. Having completed planting, the substrate is watered abundantly with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water).

After watering, add more substrate and cover the exposed tops of the bulbs. A small layer of substrate over the bulbs is absolutely necessary, because... with shallow planting, bulging of the bulbs during rooting is inevitable, but with proper planting this can be avoided.

After watering, the boxes are transferred to the basement or cellar and placed in stacks. Until mid-December, weekly watering and additional moistening of the walls and floor are required. At a temperature of +1...+9 °C, the bulbs take root and white roots appear through the cracks at the bottom of the boxes.

During the cooling process, the temperature gradually decreases to +2...+4 °C (at the end of December) and is maintained at this level until the boxes are transferred to a warm room.

Even a slight increase in temperature (by 3-4 °C) leads to a deterioration in the decorative qualities of flowers: they become smaller, the peduncle is shorter (the flower seems to be hidden in the leaves), the greenhouse period is lengthened, and the tips of the petals become discolored.

The greater or longer the increase, the greater the negative impact observed during the greenhouse period. Similar defects are observed when the cooling period is insufficient.

By the time the boxes are transferred to a warm room, the tulip sprouts reach 5-8 cm. At the final stage, maintaining the correct temperature and light conditions is crucial, as well as mandatory watering with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate during the initial period of active growing season (7-10 days after moving boxes into a heated room)

Planting material

How to grow tulips in a greenhouse? To obtain strong, beautiful flowers, it is important to choose and prepare planting material . Where can I get the bulbs? Tulip bulbs are now sold in stores, nurseries, or simply by private individuals - gardeners who breed them.

The best time to buy bulbs is from July to mid-September. These are guaranteed to be the current year's bulbs . Moreover, the sooner you do this, the better quality planting material you will receive before it is taken apart by more efficient flower growers.

What to look for when buying bulbs:

• density and thickness of scales . If it is very dense and dark brown, this may be a sign that it has been left in the soil for too long;
• the ideal onion in diameter is 3.5-4 cm. You can take a slightly smaller size, but be sure to have a healthy onion;
• appearance. The bulb should be undamaged, without traces of mold, growing into the stem (only its small nose should stick out);
• condition of the lower part . There should only be tubercles from which roots will grow, the bottom should be dense;
• bulb weight. If the onion seems light for its size, it means it is rotten.

To avoid purchasing low-quality planting material, you can grow the bulbs yourself . It is best to take them from flowers growing in open ground. To do this, 2-3 days after the start of flowering, the blooming flowers need to be cut off.

Do not cut off the buds , this may stop the growth of the foliage and reduce the accumulation of necessary organic substances.

It is necessary to dig up the bulbs at the end of June - beginning of July, after 2/3 of the stem and leaves turn yellow. Only round-shaped bulbs measuring 3.5-4 cm in diameter are suitable for forcing (smaller sizes are acceptable).

Sort the onions by size: 1st analysis - the largest, 2nd analysis - smaller, etc. Peel them off to make sure they are healthy. In addition, the peeled ones receive more nutrients and moisture.

How to store bulbs?

The quality of future flowers depends on proper storage . In order for the organs to form in the bulb and the substances necessary for growth and subsequent flowering to accumulate, the bulbs are stored for the first month at a temperature of 20°C, then it can be reduced to 17°C.

Humidity is no less important than temperature; the bulbs should not dry out. Keep the level at least 70-75% . Containers should be ventilated, for example, boxes with a mesh bottom.

Forcing tulips: temperature and watering

When moving boxes to a warm room, the temperature should be within 12 ° C, the lighting should not be turned on. Liquid fertilizing is carried out with a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements and the addition of calcium nitrate, especially if the quality of the material used is insufficient.

The second liquid feeding with the same composition is carried out after 7-10 days. The use of fertilizers is mandatory if flowers are cut above the bottom leaf in order to obtain bulbs and large flowers for subsequent growing in the ground. If the sprouts are small (3-4cm), then they are shaded with dark material without touching the sprouts.

Every day for 1-1.5 hours the shading is removed and the room is ventilated. In 2-3 days the sprouts grow to 6-8 cm and the shading is removed. 3 days after transferring the boxes, the temperature is raised to 18 °C during the day and 14-15 °C at night, and full lighting is provided.

Let's allow a short-term rise in temperature to 20°. A further increase accelerates the flowering of tulips, but can lead to drooping flower stalks and the appearance of “blind” buds.

There are indications in domestic literature that tulips do not require lighting. This is only true when forcing is carried out in a glass greenhouse. If forcing is carried out indoors (house, basement, attic, garage, etc.), then lighting is required and at least 80 watts per square meter when using “daylight” lamps.

The use of these lamps for amateurs is preferable, because... they consume less energy and provide more uniform illumination. The duration of lighting is gradually increased to 15-17 hours a day. With sufficient brightness of lighting, the leaves acquire a rich green or bluish-green color, and the flower stalks do not bend or lie down.

When the buds begin to color, the temperature should be reduced to 14-15 °C. At the same time, the flowering period increases, the flower becomes large, and the flowering stem is strong and tall. By lowering the temperature during the period of coloring of buds or even slightly earlier, it is possible to bring plants to flowering on time.

Forcing at a temperature of 15-16 °C slightly delays the flowering period (a decrease in temperature by 1 °C extends the greenhouse period by 1-1.5 days), but practically no cases of drooping flower stalks are observed.

Watering tulips during forcing is done daily with cold water (8-12 °C), preferably melted water, because it contains a minimum amount of salts and acids. The mandatory use of calcium nitrate during irrigation promotes the formation of strong peduncles, highly decorative flowers and increases flowering productivity.

Preparing the bulbs

For successful forcing, tulip bulbs must go through a stratification procedure. There are two ways, which we will discuss below.

If you bought already prepared chilled bulbs, then after planting in pots and rooting they do not need to be in the refrigerator or basement - they are immediately placed in room conditions.

Option #1. Long-term cooling 100-130 days

To receive flowers by the desired date, you can calculate the required deadline in advance. How to carry out this stratification:

1. The bulbs are sent to the basement or other room with a temperature of about +9 degrees. There should be no sharp fluctuations.
2. Humidity in the room is about 75-80%. At the same time, condensation must not accumulate on the bulbs.

Option #2. Short cooling

For this purpose, a special refrigeration chamber is used. The temperature in it should be about +5 degrees. Stratification period is 45 days.

Without exposure to cold, growth and development of the aerial parts and the appearance of buds cannot be achieved.

Cutting and storing tulips after forcing (with photos and videos)

Flowers are cut at the base of the stem in the morning before watering or in the evening and wrapped in paper so that when immersed in water it does not get wet. In cold water, cut flowers are kept for 24 hours at a temperature of +8 °C. It is even better to use a 0.1% solution of calcium nitrate. Then the stems gain strength, and cut flowers last longer.

These photos demonstrate the stages of forcing tulips:

However, it may happen that the flowers bloom earlier than expected. In this case, there are several ways to save them. As soon as the bud is colored, but the flower has not opened, cut it. Cut flowers are placed in water with snow and stored in the dark at a temperature of +2 °C. Flowers with this method can be stored for 1.5-2 weeks.

Detailed instructions for forcing tulips are presented in this video:

With the dry storage method, cut flowers, pre-wrapped in paper and placed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2 ... + 3 ° C, can be kept in it for up to two weeks. Before sale, the cut is renewed by 1 cm, and the flowers are placed in water.

After 30 minutes, the turgor of the flower and the entire plant is restored. It is unacceptable to store flowers in the refrigerator along with vegetables and fruits. They emit ethylene, which accelerates the aging of flowers.

In the final section of the article, you will learn what to do with tulip bulbs after forcing.

How to feed tulips at home

Despite the fact that the tulips were planted in fertile soil, they will still need to be fed. Nutrients are essential for the plant to grow faster. Do this three times throughout the entire time before flowering.

The first time you need to feed is when you take out the tulips from the “cold” and they have already hatched. Here we need nitrogen fertilizers in the form of ammonium nitrate. This fertilizer contains up to 34% nitrogen, and it is necessary for the growth of greenery and the forcing of strong flower shoots.

Fertilizer is applied in dissolved form. To do this, dilute no more than 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. l. saltpeter. Water the plant at the root according to the volume of the pot. And it is more correct to do this when the leaves have grown by about 5 cm. At the same time, you can also feed them with calcium nitrate. It is diluted at the rate of 30 g per 10 liters of water, and the solution is poured under the root.

Some novice gardeners ask: can ammonium nitrate be replaced with urea, which contains up to 46% nitrogen. Of course, you can use it too. Moreover, liquid fertilizing with urea can be carried out both at the root and along the leaf in the form of spraying. But you need to keep in mind that urea takes longer to be absorbed by plants, unlike ammonium nitrate. It is applied only at the root and is absorbed faster through the root system.

The second feeding is carried out in the budding phase with ammonium and calcium nitrate; they contribute to the development of strong leaves and a powerful stem. Dilute in the same concentrations as during the first feeding.

The third feeding is carried out before flowering with potassium monophosphate. This is a very good fertilizer that promotes longer flowering. And it also disinfects the soil.

Some useful tips

Even seemingly small little things can affect the condition of a flower:

1. When storing in the refrigerator, fresh fruit should not be placed next to the planting material. They emit ethylene gas, which is harmful to the bulbs.
2. Use simple varieties for forcing. It is not easy to grow terry and “parrot” varieties at home and in a greenhouse.
3. If March 8 is already close, and the plants are still too small, then for their faster ripening it is enough to increase the temperature to +22 degrees. The growth of flowers that grow too quickly can be slowed down by lowering the temperature to +13 degrees.
4. Pots with plantings should not be exposed to direct sunlight. From their influence only the stem will grow.

What is plant forcing

Forcing in plant growing is a set of actions aimed at accelerated growth and flowering or fruiting. The material is placed in certain conditions that promote rapid growth.

Among the criteria for changing the containment mode are the following parameters:

• humidity;
• temperature;
• lighting.

Video: forcing bulbous plants

Each plant requires special technology, which activates growth processes. Violation of the norm and pattern of forcing can lead to developmental anomalies or death. Also, due to errors, you can get a specimen that is not able to reproduce vegetatively and produce high-quality seed material.