Roses: planting and care in open ground for beginners

Roses are unpretentious flowers, so anyone new to gardening can plant them in their garden. You need to choose the right seedling in accordance with your personal preferences and conditions acceptable for a particular species. Today there are a huge number of varieties and varieties of roses. Some of them are hybrids, which are even easier to grow than regular species. There are not only varieties that love warmth, but also that feel quite comfortable in a cool climate, that is, in Siberia. Flowers do not require complex care, however, in order for them to grow beautiful and healthy, you should know certain rules.

Description, types and varieties of roses

Rose is the general name for all representatives of the line of flowers that are included in the rosehip group. Depending on the variety, bushes of one variety or another grow to different heights. Some are short: they will not grow more than 30 centimeters. Others can reach 2.5 meters in height. Shoots can be annual or uterine. It is difficult to classify roses by leaf shape, since everything also depends on the species.

Flowers can also vary in color, appearance and size of buds. Some buds reach 2-3 centimeters in diameter, while others reach 15-20 centimeters. The number of petals on flowers also varies: there can be either 5 or 100. The color scheme is varied: roses can be white, red, yellow, pink, blue and even black. Unique species are those that can change color during flowering.

All varieties are conventionally divided into classes so that you can choose the most suitable option for planting. During the distribution into classes, not only the decorative features of roses are taken into account, but also the place where they are planned to be planted: outdoors in open ground or at home in an apartment.

To create an unusual garden design, the following varieties are most often used:

• hybrid tea: Elbflorenz, Grande Amore, Eliza, La Perla, Pink Paradise, Schloss Ippenburg, Souvenir de Baden-Baden;
• ground cover: Bluhwunder 08, Heidetraum, Sedana, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Stadt Rom, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Sorrento, Stadt Rom;
• floribunda: Aprikola, Aspirin-Rose, Bengali, Black Forest Rose, Crescendo, Debut, Gebruder Grimm, Hermann-Hesse-Rose, Intarsia, Isarperle, Kosmos, Innocencia, Schone Koblenzerin;
• scrubs: Comedy, Goldspatz, Flashlight, La Rose de Molinard, Larissa, Medley Pink, Pink Swany, Shining Light, Yellow Meilove;
• climbing large-flowered: Golden Gate, Hella, Jasmina, Kir Royal, Laguna.

Varieties of garden roses are grouped into the following groups:

Name	Characteristics of the group
Park	Used for landscape decoration. They are well resistant to cold, can easily withstand sudden drops in temperature, and do without covering material. For them, the climate of central Russia is an acceptable option. It is not necessary to prune park rose bushes every year. The variety is not demanding in terms of care. Flowering begins in May or June. Its duration varies: roses can bloom for 2 weeks or 1.5 months. Bushes of varying heights: can grow from 1 to 3 meters.
Hybrid tea	Varieties of this group love warmth; they must be covered when the temperature drops, especially in areas with a cool climate. The bushes are low: they do not grow more than 80 centimeters. Flowering is long-lasting, but one-time, beginning at the end of June and ending in autumn. The buds are large in size: their diameter is 10-15 centimeters.
Polyanthaceae	They bloom for a long time: the buds bloom in June and delight the eye with bright colors until the onset of cold weather. The peculiarity of the group is that several inflorescences are formed on the shoots. The buds are not very large: they reach 7-10 centimeters in diameter.
Floribunda	The variety is a combination of hybrid tea and polyanthus roses. Blooms profusely and for a long time. The varieties are resistant to frost; in winter they can be left in open ground without covering material. Large buds, different shades.
Climbing	They can be large or small flowered. The diameter of the buds of the first group is 4-6 centimeters, and the second is 5-10 centimeters. Inflorescences form in groups on the shoots. A distinctive feature of the species is that their shoots are very flexible and long.
Miniature	The bushes are small, on which many buds of various shades appear. Flowering is abundant and long lasting. It begins in June and ends with the onset of severe cold weather. Miniature roses are grown not only in open ground in the garden, but also in pots, hanging flowerpots or flowerpots in the room.
Ground cover	A special species with good immunity: most diseases and pests of roses do not threaten them. Resistant to cold, do not require special care. Ground cover scrubs are an ideal option for planting an entire area. The result is an original bright carpet of flowers.
Cascade	The bushes are climbing, growing 130-150 centimeters in height. The stems are long, often drooping. The roses are grafted, and the shape, size and color of the buds will depend on the result of the grafting.
Shrubs	A distinctive feature of the group is that the bushes are tall, and long shoots diverge in different directions. Unpretentious in care. The bushes grow 2.5-3 meters in height. To create a beautiful design, flowers of this group are used as hedges. The most popular varieties among gardeners are “grandiflora” and “modern scrub”.
Modern park	A group that includes hybrids of Cordes, rugosa, musk rose, scrubs, and moesi. For simplicity, all varieties are called the general concept “srubs”. This group includes all varieties and species that have nothing in common with other varieties. Shrubs are united due to the fact that their bushes are tall (reaching 2 meters), vigorous and strong, with buds of atypical shapes and different shades. Roses of this type are resistant to frost and are immune to pests and diseases. Flowering is long and repeated.

Roses of all types will become a wonderful decoration of the garden if they are planted correctly and properly cared for.

How to care for roses outdoors in spring, summer and autumn

Growing roses is easier than you think - they are no more difficult to care for than other flowers. Any beginner can handle this successfully. After rooting, roses need simple care: watering, a little mulch and fertilizer, water, pruning, etc.

Pinching and pinching roses

In the spring, after the young shoots begin to grow, in the first half of summer they are pinched (especially fast-growing ones). Then the bushes will become multi-stemmed and bloom well.

Throughout the summer, it is necessary to monitor the grafted roses and prevent the growth of shoots from the rootstock. Why they are removed to the ground, digging up the ground and cutting out the shoots completely.

Watering

Most roses are not very drought tolerant, so they need to be watered regularly to keep them healthy and blooming. In dry summer weather - at least twice a week. In autumn, the amount of water is reduced, but the roses are not allowed to dry out completely.

Watering is necessary abundantly, as this stimulates the development of roots deep into the soil, where it remains moist longer. Avoid frequent surface spraying as it may cause fungus.

To conserve moisture, mulch the soil - sprinkle crushed leaves, wood chips, and grass clippings in a 5-10 cm layer around the base of the roses.

Mulching the soil around the rose

Top dressing

If fertilizers were added to the hole before planting, then there is no need to feed the roses in the first year. It is enough to monitor the development of shoots, loosen, water, weed as necessary.

In the second year of life, roses are fed:

1. In the spring after pruning - 20-30 g of ammonium nitrate, 40-50 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers. It is good to fertilize roses before rain or watering.
2. 10–20 days after the first feeding (before the start of flowering) - liquid mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.
3. Before the next flowering - liquid mullein.
4. At the end of July - with mineral fertilizers, as with the 1st feeding, but without nitrate.
5. In early September - phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

When and how to prune roses

Every year in the spring, before growth begins, roses are pruned:

• Broken branches and thickened old shoots are removed from park roses.
• Climbing - shoots are shortened by 10–15 cm. Four to six strong shoots at the age of one to two years are left, the rest, including dead and old ones (three to five years old), are removed entirely. On the remaining annual and biennial shoots, dried branches are cut out in the spring. After flowering in the summer, shoots that are too long are shortened if they spoil the appearance of the bush, thickening and overgrowth of shoots. The main attention is paid in the spring to the main shoots, and in the summer - to the lateral shoots that appear on them: they are shortened by 2/3 after flowering or by three buds, counting from those that have bloomed.
• Remontant roses are subjected to medium pruning: three to five main best shoots are cut off by 25-50 cm, leaving four to eight buds, weak and young shoots are cut shorter.
• Hybrid tea and other repeat-blooming roses are cut back to one to three clearly visible buds.

All re-blooming roses (except climbing ones) are also pruned in the summer, after flowering. Cut out faded shoots into one or two buds, and remove weak shading shoots. All wound surfaces and cut sites are immediately covered with garden varnish.

Polyanthus and other short roses can be cut off entirely if there is no time and energy to prune individually for each shoot.

With the help of pruning, you can regulate the shape of the bush and the abundance of its flowering. Thus, pruning the shoots above the nearest bud after flowering allows you to obtain a spreading, profusely flowering bush. Pruning shoots to the outer bud also helps to obtain a more spreading bush.

To form a compact bush, pruning should be done in spring and summer to the side or inner bud.

Short pruning helps reduce the number of shoots and flowers, but powerful, strong shoots with larger flowers grow. This bush blooms one to two weeks later. High pruning causes more shoots to bloom early, but with small flowers on short stalks.

In the fall, diseased immature shoots are removed, the rest are shortened depending on the height of the future shelter.

Selection of seedlings

The choice of planting material should be approached with all responsibility if you want beautiful and bright roses to grow in your garden. First of all, you need to carefully examine the seedlings. Appearance is very important. Shoots and stems should be elastic, strong, have a rich green tint, and the bark should not have the slightest damage or defects. Live and healthy kidneys are a must. The root system should be inspected no less carefully: the roots must be intact, undamaged, without breaks, fractures or rot. Feel the soil in which the seedling is located: the planting material should not be in dry soil; the soil should be slightly moist. Living green leaves without spots are a sign of a high-quality and healthy seedling.

When choosing planting material, you need to pay attention to several more very important points:

1. Label. In specialized stores and nurseries with quality products, seedlings have a tag with all the necessary information: species, variety, selection.
2. ADR marking. This mark is not present on all varieties. The marking is only on those varieties that have increased resistance to cold, diseases and good immunity to pests. The best decorative qualities are also found in species marked ADR.
3. Number of shoots. The highest quality material has three shoots, two of which grow from grafting. The price for such seedlings is higher. Cheap and, therefore, lower quality seedlings have only two shoots, and both grow from grafting.

You can purchase roses with a closed root system, with an open root system, or seedlings in a container. In any case, after purchasing it is better to start planting as soon as possible. If you cannot plant flowers after purchasing, you must properly store the seedlings. To do this, keep them in a container of water for 2-3 days, then wrap them in film and leave them in a cool room, such as a basement or cellar. But it is not recommended to delay planting.

Experienced gardeners advise planting roses in the fall, closer to winter. However, in the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, roses must be planted in the spring. Otherwise, young roots will not be able to take root in the new area before frost. The probability of their death with the onset of frost is very high. Summer planting of roses is allowed, the result will be good. But it is worth noting that this option will cost several times more.

What soil should I plant roses in?

A prerequisite when planting roses is to mulch the soil. In addition, roses love frequent loosening and fairly fluffy soil.

What soil to plant roses in:

• Please note that planting roses in shady places is not the best option. However, it is worth limiting its location in a draft or along the path of the top. It’s very bad if the rose is located in the shade; try to place the bushes directly in the sun.
• Immediately after planting, for about two weeks, try to generally shade the rose from the sun using a cover. This is quite easy to do with the help of garden sheds.
• Please note that the rose must be watered daily at the initial stage, immediately after planting. It is best to do this early in the morning or late in the evening, with warm water that has settled. Please note that after frequent watering, the neck of the roots may be exposed, which will facilitate the evaporation of moisture.
• To prevent this from happening, be sure to use mulch. Sawdust can be used for this purpose. You need to carry out regular feeding, as well as bush formation. It is best to apply fertilizer only 2 years after planting the rose. This is due to the fact that the plant is very sensitive to fertilizers and it is quite difficult to calculate their optimal amount.

Scheme

Planting roses

Planting roses is a simple process, but to achieve the desired result you need to do everything strictly according to the rules. You should start by choosing a site. Roses are heat-loving plants that need sunlight almost all day long. However, the bushes should not be exposed to direct sunlight. This has a bad effect on flowering. Roses lose their brightness and wither faster. For this reason, the planting site should be in partial shade, especially at midday when the sunlight is at its brightest. The most suitable option is to plant roses along the fence or near low garden trees.

Important information! It is prohibited to plant roses in places where crops of this type have already grown for a long time (8-10 years). The thing is that such soil is completely devoid of nutrients that roses desperately need for good development. It will not be possible to restore these elements even with the help of fertilizers. Moreover, such soil contains a large number of bacteria that cause rose diseases.

All roses, regardless of species and variety, need soft, light and loose soil. The soil must have an appropriate acidity level, not exceeding 6-6.5. Good drainage is a must.

Before planting, it is necessary to prepare the seedlings. Long shoots on the roots need to be trimmed, and dry parts should also be removed. Do not touch the thread-like roots, because they are very sensitive and can be easily damaged. If roses are planted in the spring, it is necessary to shorten the stems to 30-35 centimeters, 4 buds should remain on the surface. Leave the seedling in a container of water for two to three hours.

If the soil at the planting site is clayey, river sand mixed with leaf compost should be placed in the planting hole.

Follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• Dig a hole that will be two, or better, three times the size of the earthen ball with roots. The bottom of the hole must be thoroughly loosened.
• The soil that was removed from the pit must be mixed with compost in a ratio of 3:1, respectively, and also supplemented with a small amount of wood ash. The seedling should be buried so that the grafting site is 4-5 centimeters above ground level.
• Fill the remaining free space with the prepared substrate. Lightly compact the earth. Make sides to prevent water from spreading after watering.
• Water the planting area thoroughly.

A prerequisite is hilling up the space near the root system. This must be done not only immediately after planting, but also in spring and autumn. Firstly, hilling is necessary so that moisture from the soil does not evaporate too quickly. Secondly, due to this the roots will not freeze.

There is an option for planting roses not with seedlings, but with seeds, that is, without seedlings. Of course, the seeds will take a long time to germinate, but there are several methods by which you can speed up germination. For example, seed can be hardened by keeping it cold. If planting will be done before winter, it is recommended to treat the seeds with growth stimulants. The bed needs to be dug up and fertilized with peat, compost and humus. Make small grooves, the depth of which will be 4-5 centimeters. Seeds are sown in them at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from each other. The top of the bed is sprinkled with earth. If a cold winter with severe frosts is expected, it is better to cover the area with covering material.

Besides buying a seedling or sowing seeds, there is another way to grow roses. You can germinate seedlings at home. It is better to do this in early February. High-quality planting material is selected, which is sent in a fabric bag in the refrigerator for several months, then treated with growth stimulants. Seeds must be planted in separate containers. Suitable soil is a mixture of peat and river sand. You need to deepen the seeds by 3-4 centimeters, and then sprinkle them a little with sand and spray them with a spray bottle. When two or three leaves appear on the seedlings, it should be pruned. In May, it is already possible to transfer young plants to a permanent place.

Pruning roses by season

Beginning gardeners know when planting flowers that roses are pruned at any time of the year except winter.

At the same time, the goals of seasonal pruning are different:

• in the spring it is produced to renew bushes, stimulate growth and abundant summer flowering;
• in the fall - this means pruning roses for the winter and preparing them for wintering: wrapping them; in summer it involves removing fallen buds.

Pruning roses in spring

Spring pruning of roses is a very important stage in care. An incorrect movement can damage an entire rose bush and cause it to die.

1. Dried leaves, damaged twigs and dead shoots are removed - they turn brown over the winter;
2. weak and diseased branches need to be pruned to ensure healthy lighting and air, in addition, this will help avoid infection of the entire bush with fungus;
3. after which an inspection is carried out, during which three sprouts with swollen buds are selected;
4. selected branches must be cut obliquely to the buds;
5. then remove the shoots that grow inwards from the rose bush;
6. a beautiful crown with a small center is formed;
7. treatment is carried out with copper sulfate (100 grams per bucket of warm water), the bush is carefully sprayed.

Roses must be covered with film even after pruning, if cold weather is possible in the future. This is not uncommon for the climate when, on the May holidays, after a series of warm days, frosts occur or even snow falls.

When pruning, you should take into account many factors that may later affect the bush:

• climate – in cool climates, less pruning occurs;
• landing spot on the sunny side;
• type and growth of the plant.

Pruning roses in autumn

Roses are pruned in autumn in mid-October. This is a very important point: under no circumstances should you start pruning before the first frost begins. Pruning gives a kind of start for the growth of buds, so if you prune the roses before possible warming, which often happens, the bush will begin to grow. Before winter, you need to be careful and immediately treat the pruning area with an antifungal drug. For example, you can use at least simple charcoal from a barbecue.

Flower care

As noted earlier, roses are unpretentious and easy to care for. But only following clear rules guarantees that the flowers will grow healthy and strong.

Mandatory procedures include:

1. Watering. Roses do not require abundant watering, but it must be regular. This must be done once a week. The water should wet a layer of soil 25 centimeters thick. Otherwise, the bush takes on superficial roots, which are easily damaged when loosening the soil. If the weather is too dry and hot, you need to water the roses twice as often. To retain moisture in the soil longer, it is recommended to mulch the ground around the plants. A mixture of humus and peat is suitable for this.

2. Plant protection. To prevent bushes from being damaged by frost, they should be wrapped in burlap. The ground around the roots is sprinkled with a mixture of sand and soil. This is done in October, when the cold weather is just approaching.
3. Trimming. It is necessary to carry it out. The branches of the bush are pruned three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn. In spring, the plants are given the necessary shape. In summer, pruning is already cleansing: leaves with spots and buds that have wilted are removed. In autumn you need to get rid of weak, dry and damaged shoots. Fragile and diseased stems and shoots should be removed before the arrival of cold weather.
4. Feeding. Horse manure is used as fertilizer for roses. The use of chicken or pork is strictly prohibited, since it has a high level of acidity. Due to feeding the bushes with organic fertilizers, the nitrogen content of the soil becomes less. Accordingly, roses begin to develop more slowly and, in the worst case, may die. The first feeding is carried out before the buds are laid. An excellent option is calcium nitrate, which should be diluted in the amount of 1.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. When roses begin a period of active growth, they need to be fed with infused mullein in a liquid state, herbal infusions and various mineral supplements. It is not recommended to do this more than once a week.

In mid-July, they stop feeding the rose bush and reduce watering to a minimum. During this period, plants go into a dormant state, that is, they begin to prepare for the onset of winter.

Planting a rose from a pot

How to grow roses from a pot? In addition to rose roots, you can buy small bushes that grow in pots in nurseries or gardening stores. Planting them is similar to working with roots. First, dig a hole. Its depth and diameter will depend on the size of the container, plus additional space to accommodate nutrients. Once you have dug your holes, add about 4-5cm of organic compost, manure or peat moss to the bottom of the hole.

Remove the root ball of the rose from the pot without shaking off the soil, and place it in the prepared hole at such a depth that the green parts of the plant (stems and leaves) are not buried. Sprinkle everything with previously dug soil, add a little compost on top and water generously.

Rose propagation

There are two ways to propagate roses: seed and vegetative. Few people resort to the first method, since in this case the varietal characteristics of plants are not preserved. For this reason, the seed method is used only for propagating wild roses. Seed collection begins when the fruits turn bright red. Then the seeds undergo stratification in moistened sand, keeping the raw materials at a temperature of 3-4 degrees above zero. With the arrival of spring, the seeds are treated with growth stimulants, after which they proceed to planting in open ground. The bed with the crops is mulched with humus. After some time, when seedlings appear, they should be thinned out so that there is a distance of 10-15 centimeters between plants. In summer, shrubs are fed with mineral fertilizers. Roses are grown until August of the following year, and then they are used as rootstock.

The best ways to propagate roses are cuttings, dividing the bush and grafting.

Way	Description
Summer cuttings	Strong shoots with slight lignification must be cut off. This is done in the morning or evening. Cuttings are prepared, the length of which should be 13-15 centimeters. On each one you should leave a couple of leaves and the same number of live buds. The bottom needs to be cleared of leaves. The cleaned lower part must be treated with a growth stimulator, and the cuttings should be placed in water, where the petals are added. Open ground for planting should be sprayed with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then the finished material should be planted. The bed is covered with glass to create conditions like in a greenhouse. During the day you need to maintain a temperature of 25 degrees above zero, and at night - 19-20 degrees Celsius.
Rooting in potatoes	This method is considered the simplest and therefore the most popular. Thanks to the procedure, the cuttings receive a sufficient amount of starch and carbohydrates from the root crop. To do this, you need to dig a ditch 15 centimeters deep on the site. One third of it is filled with sand. The cuttings are inserted into the potatoes at 10-12 centimeters, after which they are placed in the prepared groove. Watering is carried out once every five days. Sugar syrup is used for this. The area is covered with a glass cap.
Rooting in water	The stems are cut from the bush and divided into cuttings. Thoroughly clear of thorns, leaves and other vegetation. After this, the stems are immersed in distilled water. The water must be changed regularly. This is done until the cuttings germinate.
Reproduction in a package	Place a lump of earth in a plastic bag. The cuttings are deepened into the soil, after moistening their bottoms with aloe juice. You need to release the air from the bag and then close it tightly. For the cuttings to germinate, place the bag on the window. Young roots should appear after a month. After this time, planting is carried out in open ground.
Vaccination	This method of propagation is only suitable for young roses. The procedure should be carried out in mid-summer. Initially, you should remove the branches on the sides of the rootstock, and then clear the root collar of the soil. Later, an incision is made in the shape of the letter “T”, where the cutting is placed. Next, the cutting needs to be fixed. After 15-20 days the kidney is checked: if it is swollen, the vaccination is successful. If the bud is black, it means the attempt was unsuccessful. Before the arrival of winter, grafted roses must be hilled 5-6 centimeters above the grafting site. With the arrival of spring, the soil needs to be raked and the plant needs to be pruned above the grafting site.
Dividing the bush	Only ungrafted roses are propagated this way. In the spring, when the buds have not yet blossomed, the bush is dug out of the ground and divided into parts. Each part must have both roots and shoots. Places that are exposed must be sprinkled with crushed coal. Then all parts of the bush can be planted in different parts of the garden.
By layering	The procedure is carried out when it is warm in the spring. On a low-growing shoot, a circular cut is made on the bush. Then the shoot is bent to the ground, after which it is placed in a previously dug hole. Next, you need to fix the shoot and sprinkle it with earth. You should water the cuttings regularly until they take root in the soil. Next year, the baby can be separated from the mother bush and transplanted to any place on the site.

Experienced gardeners use these methods. According to their recommendations, even beginners can propagate roses.

Is it necessary to prune a young bush in the first year?

Marigolds - planting and care in open ground

Regular watering is very important

In general, pruning is not necessary - if the soil is rich in microelements and the plant itself is strong enough, then there will be no problems.

Another story is that if the rose slowly takes root in a new place, the leaves become limp or turn yellow. In this case, most of the buds (or even all) should be cut off - yes, in the first year you will have to be left without flowers. But the bush will strengthen faster and will certainly please the gardener next year.

Diseases and pests

Some varieties of roses are immune to diseases and pests, but there is still a risk of infection.

Flowers often suffer from:

1. Powdery mildew. The manifestations are easy to notice: a white coating is visible on the foliage and shoots. The disease affects plants grown in greenhouses or at home. Powdery mildew progresses quickly, and therefore infected plants should be removed immediately. It is recommended to dig up the soil and sleep with the ash.
2. Rust. The disease appears in the spring. Brown spots are visible on the front side of the leaves, and clusters of orange-colored spores appear on the inside, which turn black as summer approaches. After infection, the leaves begin to fall off and the stems change color from green to brown. Areas of the plant that have been affected by rust must be removed. You can cope with the disease by watering roses with a decoction of field ivy.
3. Black spot. Manifestations of the disease become noticeable at the end of summer - in August. Black spots with an orange frame appear on the leaves. Over time, the same spots spread to the stems. The bush is losing its leaves. If the disease is not treated in time, the plant will die. Watering with a decoction of field ivy solves the problem.

The insects that most often attack roses are spider mites and aphids. If the pests are few in number, you can get rid of aphids manually, or simply by washing the leaves of the plant with a soapy solution. If there are a lot of pests, it is better to switch to using chemicals. Spider mites can be eliminated by sprinkling the plant with tobacco or wiping and watering with wormwood infusion.

If roses do not have enough nitrogen in the soil, the plants will begin to turn yellow. Manifestations will be noticeable from the bottom of the bush, and the leaves will fall off. If a yellow color appears on the edges of the leaves, then the roses need potassium. The problem can be solved: it is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil based on the required minerals - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and others.

Anyone can plant roses if they wish. Even a beginner in gardening can cope with growing these unpretentious flowers. The right choice of seedlings, planting, proper care - and your plot will be full of bright colors and delight you with a pleasant aroma.

Useful information for beginner rose growers

Recommendations from experienced gardeners won't help if you don't understand the basics. First, remember the 5 basic rules for growing roses.

1. Winter-hardy varieties of roses grow well in temperate climates, but most hybrid varieties may not tolerate severe frosts in winter and heat in summer. For them, the optimal average temperature in July is 10 °C.
2. Roses are demanding when it comes to soil moisture. In spring and summer they need abundant watering.
3. Roses grow best in open, sunny places. In the shade of a house or tree they will be depressed and may not even bloom. The place for roses should be protected from strong winds so that the snow does not blow away in winter.
4. The groundwater level should not be higher than 1 m from the ground surface. Roses planted in wetlands may die in winter, and those that remain will grow poorly and be affected by disease.
5. Roses love neutral soil, that is, acidity within the pH range of 5.8-6.3. If the soil is acidic or slightly acidic, you need to lime it.

It often happens that a rose bush planted near a house grows there without any care or replanting for many years. When growing roses in one place for more than 10 years, so-called “soil fatigue” may occur - they develop poorly and are not helped by any fertilizers. The bushes do not look very attractive, although many of them would look different if properly cared for.

How to prepare a shrub for the first wintering

In most regions, roses have to be covered so that they can easily survive the winter without loss. And the first one is especially important - the plant might not have time to store all the necessary substances in the roots. Therefore, as mentioned above, it is very important to feed with phosphorus fertilizers.

In addition, by early to mid-September the roses need to be bent down - later the trunks will become more fragile and less flexible. Using special pins (can be made from wire), they are fixed to the ground, after which they are covered with sawdust or protected from the cold in other ways.

For reference! If the bushes do not bend down, they can be pressed down with boards on which to place several bricks.

After these events, you can forget about roses until April, when it’s time to open them.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, watering roses is gradually reduced, continuing to periodically loosen the soil and do weeding. The bushes must be treated with Bordeaux mixture for preventive purposes and pruned in autumn. With the arrival of frost, it is recommended to hill the bushes with a mixture of earth, peat and sand to a height of 25-30 cm. In this case, floribunda, cut to a height of 30 cm, is hidden almost completely underground. In other varieties, leaves and flowers are torn off from the shoots. The following can serve as an upper cover:

• spruce branches;
• cardboard;
• sawdust.

Park, polyanthus and ground cover varieties do not need pruning or covering; hilling is enough for them. Climbing, bush and climbing roses are lightly pruned, foliage is removed from the shoots and they are bent to the ground. A film must be placed between the soil and the plant to protect the shoots from excess moisture.

The top of the roses is covered with spruce branches or non-woven material. To prevent plants from being spoiled by rodents, poison can be placed nearby. After snow falls on the site, it is recommended to sprinkle it on top of the covered roses. With the arrival of positive temperatures, the shelter is periodically raised for ventilation.

It will be possible to finally remove it in March or April, when the soil thaws.