Diseases and pests of dracaena: types and methods of treatment

Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees.
A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for it. The leaves may look drooping if you freeze the flower. First aid is a warm shower. During a particularly hot period, you can place the flowerpot on a tray of water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not come into contact with the surface of the water. As water evaporates, it humidifies the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is low on the horizon. The light should be evenly diffused. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. An evergreen palm tree up to 35 years old is considered young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves?

• My dracaena dropped its leaves as soon as I took it out to the balcony after the winter, no matter what I did, but the leaves did not rise, but they returned it back to the room in 3 days, the beauty rose and is now standing, all the leaves have blossomed.
• Although dracaena is an unpretentious indoor plant, in order for it to be beautiful and lush (the leaves look up), you need to properly care for it. The first signs that the dracaena does not have enough care are drooping leaves, the leaves turn yellow and fall off too often.

  Dracaena does not like to be watered too often. The earthen ball should dry out before the next watering. Young plants need to be replanted every year and at the same time increase the size of the pot by 1-2 fingers so that the roots are not crowded.

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  Perhaps the cause of drooping leaves is a lack of nutrients. You need to feed the plant at least once a month (or once every 2 weeks). I use liquid vermicompost for feeding.

  Dracaena also loves the presence of oxygen at the roots. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil on the surface.

  In the summer, spraying has a beneficial effect, but only this should be done in the evening, when the sun is not so strong (if you have a plant on the balcony).

• Dracaena does not like dry air. This time. It needs to be sprayed. In addition, if it’s hot in your winter, then in your apartment the dracaena will always have such drooping leaves. They will turn yellow over time. It was 24 degrees for me and the dracaena was very bad.
• Perhaps she is standing on your sunny side and it may be hot for her. Put it in the shade or just open a window so that the plant doesn’t feel so hot. And in summer you need to water the flowers twice a week than in winter.
• Dracaena rarely drops its leaves. If this happens, it means they didn’t take good care of the plant, or they weren’t at home for a long time.

  It should be taken into account that dracaena is very sensitive to drafts. If you put it in a draft, then not only the leaves will fall.

  Also, you should not place the flower in bright direct sunlight.

  There is no need to overwater the plant.

  Moderate watering will save the dracaena from root rot.

  The plant needs to be sprayed more often. Dracaena loves this, and the leaves will stand up like the ears of a hare in the cold.

  The soil into which dracaena is transplanted or planted should not be heavy. It should be well filled with oxygen. It is possible, and indeed necessary, to make drainage for 1/3 of the planting area.

  The soil needs to be loosened more often.

  Dracaena will live longer.

• My dracaena dropped its leaves after we started opening the windows for ventilation in the summer. I fertilized it and reduced the number of leaves, rejuvenating it, but to no avail. I removed it from the window into the room and within a day the plant came to life, all the leaves rose. Most likely she dropped her leaves due to a draft and dry air.

• Our dracaena dropped its leaves after moving. The move was in winter and the plant simply froze, the leaves seemed to have withered. It was never possible to revive her completely, but she still mostly recovered over time. This could also be caused by a draft or too sunny place.

The trunk has wrinkled

The trunk of the dracaena may become soft and wrinkled. This happens if the plant is left in the cold for a long time. Most gardeners know why dracaena leaves curl into a tube. They know that when the air temperature is below 18 degrees, the dracaena will begin to freeze. But the stem fibers also soften in the cold, the trunk begins to weaken and rot from the inside. The process of softening and wrinkling does not begin immediately. First, the top begins to freeze, and the leaves may become limp. The barrel itself still remains in good solid condition. If you notice in time that the top of the plant is frozen and prune it to the point where a healthy trunk begins, the dracaena can be saved. Experts recommend the same method when answering the question of how to save dracaena if the top has dried out.

Important! It is imperative to sprinkle crushed coal on it to ensure protection for the cut.

The most important thing to do next to achieve good plant growth:

• transfer the color to a warm place with natural sunlight, where there will be no drafts. The temperature in the area where the plant is located should range from 22 to 25 degrees Celsius;
• fertilize using complex fertilizer. The dosage should be halved, based on the data in the instructions;
• Spray the trunk and soil every week. Use a plant growth stimulator for this.

Observe the correct watering regime and wait for the dracaena to recover and produce lateral buds. The watering regime must be observed without fail. Gradually, the dracaena will recover and produce lateral buds.

Plant care

Diagnosis of the problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration in its appearance is a clear sign of health problems

It is important to interpret these signs correctly and know what to do in each specific case.

Table: symptoms and possible causes

What errors in care lead to: examples in the photo

Dracaena, whose leaf tips dry out, suffers from too low air humidity or sunburn. Dracaena can shed its leaves for several reasons, including natural ones. This is what dracaena most often looks like before shedding its leaves. Dracaena can very easily get burned if it is sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight. Browning, drying leaves of dracaena mean long-term neglect of the plant's need for moisture. Yellowing of leaves of dracaena reacts to overwatering

The roots are rotting

Dracaena disease can come from rotting of the root system. The following factors may be the reasons:

• the temperature at the location of the plant is too low, up to 15 °C;
• the flower is affected by a bacterial infection. The stem begins to rot. First from the top, then general damage to the leaves begins. As a result, bacteriosis infects the bark of the trunk, causing it to rot from the inside. For a plant, such a process means obvious death without the opportunity to recover;
• bacteriosis can result from waterlogging of the soil, low plant immunity, which is caused by a lack of potassium and phosphorus, as well as due to lack of soil acidity or elevated temperature;
• Rotting of dracaena can occur due to improperly selected soil. Rotting cannot be avoided if the soil is too dense and heavy.

Problems can be avoided if you grow dracaena in compliance with the following care rules:

• check the color in time for the presence of pests and diseases;
• monitor the condition of the soil;
• maintain soil water balance;
• avoid hypothermia.

Dracaena disease

Causes of diseases

Ficus is a house plant that enjoys well-deserved fame among floriculture lovers. The flower is cute and unpretentious, with large and beautiful leaves. The tree is considered a long-livers, it lives up to 12-15 years.

Sometimes ficus trees can develop various kinds of diseases. They usually occur due to improper or negligent care. Pests emerge from contaminated soil, quickly attacking the roots and destroying the plant. Or the flower may freeze and die from fungi and other related infections.

Maintenance is generally simple and the requirements for gardeners are the usual - water regularly (without overwatering and not too often), do not expose to severe overheating and avoid direct sunlight. It is advisable to maintain the air temperature in the room at a standard temperature for our climate, without sudden changes; extreme temperatures should be avoided.

Ficus is never placed near a heating radiator. If heating devices are located nearby, then a moistened cloth is placed on them and on the windowsill for protection, and the surface of the flower is often sprayed with small drops. If the humidity, on the contrary, is high, then it is advisable to wait until the soil dries 2-3 cm, and then continue watering.

A number of species shed leaves in autumn and winter, but this is a gradual and painless process for the plant. If the leaves fall off too quickly, then the ficus does not have enough water or there is not enough soil in the pot, or it needs to be transplanted into soil more saturated with nutrients. The green tree does not like open ground and often change its location in the house.

If the grower takes diligent care of the plant, then the risk of disease is minimized. However, sometimes cuttings and young stems may have hidden diseases that are not noticeable at first glance. Infections and parasites (for example, nematodes) are introduced from the soil. Ficus often dies from them.

It is recommended to fertilize ficus in the warm season - once every two weeks. With the onset of autumn, they feed less often; in winter there is no need to touch the flower. Nourish the soil according to the instructions on the package so as not to overfeed. The leaves also react to excess feeding - dots and specks appear on them.

If rot appears at the base of the root, the leaves wither and curl, the culprit is most likely constant flooding. If the ficus stops growing, the soil is depleted and mineral resources are running out.

Flower shops sell soil that contains the minerals and vitamins that ficus needs for growth.

Diseases

A yellowish tint on dracaena foliage most often occurs due to a plant disease. It is very difficult to tolerate sudden changes in temperature. If you move a flower from the street to a very hot room, the edges of its leaves will begin to crack.

Why do dracaena leaves fall off - reasons

The plant also begins to hurt if it has been in the sun for a long time. Direct rays cause burns. But the lack of light is also detrimental to tropical culture. This causes the foliage to fade and become faintly colored.

Dracaenas are often susceptible to infectious diseases. In this case, the following symptoms will additionally appear:

• slowdown in plant growth;
• yellowing of leaves and then their falling off.

Infectious diseases are transmitted from other plants or introduced into the soil by tools during loosening. If the onset of symptoms is ignored, the flower may die.

The appearance of dark brown spots on the tips of the leaves indicates the development of a bacterial infection. The stem may turn black at the base, then begin to rot in the area of ​​the petioles. An unpleasant odor appears. If the infection is mild, it is possible to remove the diseased foliage and then spray with a growth stimulant. These measures will reduce the development of point disease.

Important! If the bacterial infection gets worse, it will be impossible to save the flower. Plant owners may experience fungal infection

Symptoms will include yellowing of the leaves, small brown spots with a red edge, and fungal spores will be visible on top of the spots.

Plant owners may encounter fungal infections. Symptoms will include yellowing of the leaves, small brown spots with a red edge, and fungal spores will be visible on top of the spots.

If the dracaena is affected by a fungus, it is necessary to remove the diseased leaves and stop spraying the plant. Then treatment should be carried out with a series of biological products.

Another infectious pathology to which a tropical plant is susceptible is Fusarium spot. When a flower is infected with it, the leaves rot, and watery spots with a yellow edging appear on the plates.

The plant will begin to dry out and shed its leaves if mold appears in the soil. Many indoor flowers are susceptible to this phenomenon. Most often the problem occurs due to improper care. Poor soil quality, insufficient lighting, high humidity levels - all this leads to the formation of mold. You can save dracaena only if you transplant it into new soil with drainage

It is important that the soil is loose

Infectious diseases of dracaena are manifested by yellowness on the leaves and the appearance of brown spots

Why does it rot?

Rotting is caused by a lack of light, heat, excess moisture, and too dense soil mixture. If the situation does not change after eliminating the errors, it may turn out that the plant is affected by bacteriosis, which manifests itself as rotting spots. This disease develops due to alkaline soil, with a lack of phosphorus and potassium. Most often, dracaena dies.

If the rules of care are followed, most varieties of dracaenas do not get sick. Therefore, in case of any deviation, it is first necessary to objectively assess the conditions of detention. Most often, adverse symptoms disappear after the errors are corrected.

Air temperature

The reason why Decembrist's leaves turn red and wither may be hypothermia of the flower. For the Decembrist, a temperature of +14 degrees is considered critical. With it, necrotic processes begin in plant tissues. With a further decrease, the plant begins to fade sharply. Initially, the upper leaves lose turgor, and then the rest.

The flower can only be saved by raising the temperature to +18 degrees or more with moderate watering.

Only by knowing the main reason why Decembrist leaves turn red and wither, and what to do in this situation, can the plant be restored, otherwise it will die.

Increased air temperature can also provoke a problem with the leaves of the Decembrist. With insufficient watering, the plates intensively evaporate moisture, and have no way to replenish it. Therefore, it is recommended to water the plant regularly during hot periods, preventing the earthen clod from drying out. You should also additionally spray the above-ground part in the morning so that the flower has time to absorb moisture before the evening.

In winter, the flower should not be placed close to the heating system. To prevent the flow of hot air from the battery to the pot, it is recommended to lay a sheet of polystyrene foam, the width of which will be slightly larger than the window sill.

Important! In summer, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight, and the pot should not be overheated

Leaves turn pale, yellow, spots appear

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The presence of dracaena in a critical condition can be expressed in the pallor of the leaves, in the fact that they begin to turn yellow. There should be increased concern if this happens to young foliage. The main reason again becomes improper watering, or rather lack of moisture. The soil in which the plant is located should not dry out. You should check the soil moisture from time to time. The earthen top layer 2-3 cm thick can remain dry until subsequent watering, but then the soil should be moist.

It happens that brown spots appear on the leaves of dracaena. This can happen if the plant, while on the windowsill, is positioned in such a way that direct sunlight falls on the foliage. This means she may suffer from sunburn. On the surface of the sheet, spots of a rusty tint that are sticky to the touch first appear. Then they dry out. As a result, the plant gets sick and ultimately, if what is happening is ignored, dies. You can save dracaena by moving the pot to a shaded area and cutting off the infected leaves.

At the same time, cold air can cause a change in the color tone of the plant. Cold affects color with the same result. The plant begins to turn red, then brown. Resuscitation of the flower should be its relocation to a warm place with periodic spraying. The water must be left to stand and used warm. In more comfortable conditions, the color may fade quickly.

Spots on dracaena

What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is a rather massive plant, so the above-ground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the “fractures” she received are the result of the vigorous activity of children and pets. In this case, do not be upset. If done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

A broken dracaena is not a reason to cause a tragedy

The easiest way is when the barrel is broken, but not broken completely. “Splints” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” as much as possible. You can wrap the top with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.

Don't forget to "seal" the cut you make.

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

1. Saw off the trunk evenly just below the damage site. It is advisable to do this along the “scars” left by fallen leaves.
2. Disinfect the cut with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
3. Fill with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden varnish. If you don't have anything on hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
4. Place the plant in partial shade. Water moderately. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

The side buds on the dracaena “wake up” for quite a long time, be patient

Broken top:

1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without fraying or nicks. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
2. Remove offending leaves. Place in a container with the biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. You can use succinic acid and activated carbon (one tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in damp perlite, vermiculite, or sand. The cut will need to be sprinkled with any powdered root formation stimulator.
3. Change the water every 3-4 days, moisten the substrate regularly. Provide bottom heating, at least 12 hours of daylight and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
4. Be patient. The rooting process can take 3–4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, replant the plant in soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken top of dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any indoor plant, is not immune to attacks from diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly cared for rarely suffers. However, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can cause a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die

Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She doesn't need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye with its splendor and beauty for as long as possible, react in time to any changes in its appearance. What do the drooping leaves of the dracaena say?

Let's look at why this problem occurs and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

• improper watering;
• unsuitable flowerpot;
• nutritional deficiencies;
• lack of moisture;
• drafts and disturbed temperature conditions;
• the plant was frozen.

Pests

Diseases and treatment are associated not only with infections and viruses. These factors are not the only ones that cause harm. Pests are no less dangerous for dracaena. To avoid their appearance, you should know how to properly care for the plant. How can you understand in time that pests have already appeared and you need to urgently take appropriate measures?

If the color is attacked by pests, it is worth determining their type and using an effective method of destroying a specific variety.

The most common pests of dracaena can be:

Shchitovka

An insect reaching a length of 4 mm. If you look closely, you can identify it by its protective waxy yellow-gray shell. The pest feeds on plant sap. In large quantities, scale insects dry out the stems and leaves, after which they become weak, dry out and fall off.

They fight scale insects on dracaena using a soft sponge and a soap solution, which is used to carefully wash off the parasites from the leaves. After washing, the plant is treated with an insecticide.

Thrips

These pests can be found on the lower parts of leaves. They establish themselves there, organizing entire colonies. The ideal atmosphere for thrips, in which they multiply quickly, is low humidity and high air temperature. To expel such a pest, it is necessary to treat the plant with an insecticide, observing a break of 10 days between treatments.

Thrips

Spider mite

It is considered one of the most unpleasant pests. It's almost microscopic. Like thrips, it collects in the area of ​​the lower part of the leaf. It is quite difficult to notice, but it reveals its presence by the fact that soon the foliage and stem of the dracaena affected by it begin to become covered with a white coating, and a cobweb appears.

A plant infested by a spider mite loses its immunity, can contract various diseases, and stop growing. Getting rid of a mite is difficult, but the possibility of saving the plant exists. It is necessary to repeatedly treat the plants with acaricide, and before that, wash the foliage using a hot soapy solution.

Mealybugs

The most common type of dracaena pest. Insects love the sap of the plant. Having gathered on the leaf, they dry it out, stop the growth of the flower, and prevent it from developing. It is quite easy to notice them on the leaves. The scale insects are painted white; they are also identified by a powdery white coating on the dracaena. A similar spot on a leaf is always clearly visible.

Flower in the interior

Collecting in leaves and rosettes, mealybugs on dracaena create deposits similar to wax cotton. You can get rid of this type of pest manually. Again, one of the main necessary ingredients is a soap solution, and for the treatment itself a soft swab is required. After washing, the leaves are sprayed with insecticide twice. The procedure is repeated after 14 days.

Important! The risk of pests appearing on a plant can be significantly reduced if certain air humidity levels are maintained in the room.

The causes of dracaena diseases are various bacteria, fungi, and parasites. The list of various factors threatening the flower is extensive. You can significantly reduce the risk or completely get rid of all the prescribed negative elements if you turn to life-saving measures in a timely manner. If you do everything correctly, create optimal conditions for the flower, you won’t have to wonder for a long time why dracaena doesn’t grow.

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The leaves are falling

Why does croton shed its leaves? What to do?

If the trunk of the codiaum is exposed at the bottom, this is a completely natural process of the death of old leaves.

Why do croton leaves fall off in the fall? This is quite normal, a pattern, in the same way at this time of year the leaves of birch trees or, for example, maples fall.

Why do croton leaves fall off? What to do? But if the top leaves also begin to fall off, the reason for this is most likely either a sharp change in the temperature regime, or too low a temperature, under which the codiaum remains for a long time.

First of all, to eliminate such a phenomenon as leaf falling, you need to take care of the conditions under which the croton is kept. It is also a good idea to use fertilizing to restore the health of the plant.

When croton sheds its leaves, the reason may be stagnation of moisture, as a result of which the root system rots. If you find that this is the reason, cut off the apical cutting and try to root it in order to re-grow the flower if the existing one dies. That's why the leaves of the croton began to fall.

The leaves are curling

Why do the leaves curl? The lower, upper, large, small, underdeveloped leaves most often curl due to excess moisture. If the watering regime does not change, the dracaena completely sheds its foliage.

If blackening around the edges or brown spots appear,
you need to think about the influence of temperature fluctuations .
Most often this happens immediately after a purchase or change of location. You need to find a warm place and change the watering regime. If the situation does not change after changing the conditions, it is necessary to check the dracaena for the presence of pests. Foliage may curl due to sap being sucked out of it. This usually happens when infested with aphids. Wiping with a solution of laundry soap is considered effective. In advanced cases, a fungicide is required.

Care

Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, so caring for it is simple and not burdensome. This is a light-loving plant, so it is preferable to place it on southern windows. However, during the height of summer, your pet needs to be shaded.

They need to be watered frequently, but moderately. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to take a warm shower every week. To do this, you need water at room temperature.

When the room temperature drops to 14-16 degrees, reduce watering and the plant falls asleep. For irrigation you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you also need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is moisture-loving.

If there is a lack of nutrients, even green leaves may fall off. You need to feed it with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow and fall off?

So why do dracaena leaves turn yellow?

Failure to comply with temperature and humidity standards

Dracaena loves spraying, this helps increase air humidity and protect the plant from drying out the tips of the foliage. This problem occurs especially often in autumn and winter, when the heating is turned on and the air in the apartments becomes quite dry. To solve this problem, you should use a humidifier or spray the dracaena with a spray bottle.

Dracaena has several varieties that are popular, most of them do not tolerate direct sunlight, they can burn the greens. The first sign of too much sun will be the foliage fading and becoming faded and dull. Most often this problem occurs in the summer; it is enough to move the plant into the shade or remove it from direct sunlight.

Important! Dracaena does not tolerate drafts at all; this fact should be taken into account when choosing its place of residence. If the plant decides to drop its leaves, then it means it is beginning to die, urgent measures should be taken

The optimal growing temperature for this palm tree is from 180°C to 250°C. When the air temperature drops below 16 degrees, the plant may become ill, its condition will worsen, as will its appearance, the foliage may droop. Cold drafts are especially dangerous in winter.

Insufficient plant nutrition

If the dracaena does not have enough nutrients, even green leaves may fall off. For feeding, special fertilizers for palm trees are used. You should carefully read the instructions for use that come with the product.

Spots on dragon tree leaves

The soil must be nutritious and have good water and air permeability. Oversaturation of the soil with fluoride will cause the ends of the dracaena leaves to turn yellow. Then the treatment can be long-term.

Drops leaves

Gloxinia diseases - what to do, how to deal with them

Dracaena foliage lasts for 2 years with good care, and periodic yellowing and falling should not bother the owner. Because in this case this is normal for the plant. If there is a factor of massive shedding of leaves and the plant is “bare” almost completely, the cause of the problem may be improper watering. This is often paid attention to, although the reasons why the plant loses its leaves may be different. For example, this may happen if:

• the flower is frostbitten due to non-compliance with the temperature regime or if the dracaena was standing on the blown side;
• the root system rots;
• instead of a lack of moisture, there is a supersaturation with water with parallel supercooling of the soil;
• infection. It usually affects old plants if they are poorly cared for. Recommended measures for the treatment of dracaena are spraying with medications and leaving 10 days between moisturizing.

Fungal and bacterial diseases

Improper care, which leads to a weakening of the defenses, is the most common cause of damage to dracaena by fungal and bacterial diseases.

Alternaria or concentric spot

Signs of Alternaria blight are dry, round spots on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Their shade is most often light brown, and in the center you can see a white dot and concentric circles. Upon closer examination of the foci of the disease, dark or light inclusions of fungal spores are visible, which, as Alternaria spreads, provoke blackening of dry spots.

Treatment of Alternaria involves the use of fungicides. Not only “Fundazol” is suitable (dosage – 10 g per 0.5 liter of water), but also “Topaz”, “Oxychom”. You need to spray the bush at least 3 times, observing a 10-day interval.

Phyllosticosis or brown spot

To treat dracaena, three treatments with any available fungicide are used with an interval of 10 days. It is recommended to alternate medications to prevent the fungus from becoming accustomed to them.

Heterosporosis

The disease affects both sides of the leaf blade, in the initial stages causing the appearance of oblong yellowish spots. As heterosporosis spreads, the spots darken and acquire a brown tint, and a dark red border becomes pronounced. At an advanced stage of the disease, there is an increase in foci and the appearance of fungal spores.

The danger of heterosporosis is its rapid spread and damage to the entire plant, which dies if left untreated. The apical shoot is the first to suffer, and then the remaining parts of the dracaena, which turn yellow and dry out. At risk are specimens that grow in rooms with dry air and insufficient moisture.

Effective means of combating heterospora are fungicides “Topaz”, “Strobi”, “Maxim”, “Skor”, “Quadris”, “Falcon”. You can also treat the bush with a solution of Bordeaux mixture according to the instructions. It is advisable to carry out 3-4 sprayings to completely destroy the fungus.

Bacteriosis

Bacteriosis is a dangerous bacterial disease that cannot be treated. Most often, it affects dracaenas planted in a substrate with a high alkali content, as well as specimens suffering from a lack of fresh air and poor ventilation in the room, heat, soil depletion, constant dampness and systematic waterlogging of the soil. As a result, the bushes' immunity weakens and they become more susceptible to bacterial attacks.

Bacteriosis can be recognized by several signs:

• Wateriness at the tips of leaf blades and their darkening;
• Rotting lesions on leaves that feel damp when touched. After the stains dry, a characteristic film remains;
• Small round ulcers that form not only on the leaf mass, but also on the stem;
• The appearance of characteristic yellow stripes that separate the diseased and healthy parts of the leaf blade.

It is noteworthy that bacteriosis of dracaena can spread to neighboring plants, especially those that are in close contact. The risk of infection increases significantly in the case of spraying, when water gets on parts of the diseased and healthy flowers.

If dracaena gets sick with bacteriosis, throw it away without regret. Any delay risks infecting the entire collection, which will soon die. Be sure to disinfect the pot with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate before planting another indoor flower in it.

Why can a plant get sick?

Dracaena diseases are dangerous and must be treated immediately. Dracaena does not grow, what should I do? Many novice gardeners turn to specialists with this question. The causes of the problem are not difficult to detect.

Dracaena

Dracaena belongs to indoor plants. Despite home care, he is at risk of various diseases, the causes of which can be infection or pests. In order to prevent this from happening, it is recommended to inspect the plant regularly.

Important! More often than not, dracaena diseases are preceded by improper care. Therefore, if there are suspicions or already clearly noticeable signs that the plant has been affected by pests or infectious diseases, you need to promptly begin treatment.