Proper attention and care must be given to every garden tree, and doubly so for young ones.
This also applies to pruning.
Regularly pruning the branches of an apple tree not only forms a crown of the correct shape.
Pruning young apple trees will stimulate proper growth and guarantee a good harvest of high quality fruit.
ADVICE! In order for the tree to grow healthy, it is necessary to prune it correctly at the initial stage.
Why do young apple trees need to be pruned?
The following arguments will answer the question:
- The crown of the tree is trimmed to create a beautiful and correct appearance and for comfortable harvesting.
- Removing competitors promotes proper growth of young branches and their strengthening.
- Damaged and withered branches are removed so that they do not interfere with the development of new ones.
- The apple tree will be prepared for winter.
The time of year when to prune a young apple tree depends on what result is required. For example, special pruning of young apple trees in the fall. The goal diagram is presented below.
Purposes and types of pruning apple trees.
Fruit thinning
We usually think about pruning apple trees in the context of the tree. However, fruit thinning is important for tree health and quality fruit production.
It seems strange that there is such a thing as “too many apples!” Pruning apple trees is important, but believe it or not, too much fruit can stunt the tree's growth or even break branches.
- Right before summer, when you prune your apple trees, look at how many young fruits you have on your apple tree.
- Around June, most apple trees drop some fruit that does not develop naturally.
- Thinning the fruit from year to year evens out the fruit yield. Most fruit trees, including peaches and plums, typically produce a high yield one year and a light harvest the next.
- This is inconvenient for home gardeners. Pruning apple trees and properly thinning the fruit will take care of irregular fruiting.
How to prune an annual apple tree
Having planted a one-year-old seedling in the ground, its upper part is cut off so that the height of the lower part is about 1 m. This will allow side shoots to form already in the first year of growth. In a few years they will form the main crown of the apple tree.
Advice! If the seedling has a lot of side shoots , they must be cut back by at least 0.4 m. You just need to take into account the length of the shoot itself.
Large shoots growing towards the apple tree trunk at an acute angle are recommended to be completely removed.
Branches that make a right angle with the trunk are trimmed so that the remaining part has from 3 to 5 buds.
Pruning an annual apple tree after planting.
Techniques
Spring pruning is carried out in a special way that reduces tissue trauma and accelerates wound healing.
The following pruning techniques are used:
- Shortening shoots. Cut off part of the branch, reducing its length. Light pruning (up to a third of the shoot), medium (up to half) and strong (more than half the length) can be used.
- Thinning (removing) branches. The selected shoot is removed completely to the branch.
Shortening of shoots is carried out using the “bud-to-bud” method, when the cut is made at a distance of 1-5 cm from the selected bud. The greater the length of the stump remaining above the bud, the greater the likelihood of its necrosis and infection by microorganisms. If the cut is made at a short distance from the kidney, there is a high probability of damage to it.
The cut is made almost at a right angle to reduce the area of the open wound. After work, the cut area must be covered.
When the branches are completely removed, the cut is carried out using the “ring” method. At the base of each shoot there is a small bulge of bark that hides the cambial tissue. It is she who is responsible for the rapid healing of the wound.
The cut is carried out so as not to damage the ring, but also not to leave a stump from the branch. When pruning short, the cambial tissue is damaged, as a result, the cut site does not overgrow, but over time turns into a hollow. It will become a favorable environment for the habitat and wintering of all fungi and pests.
If the cut is made too far from the ring, a stump is formed. Gradually it will dry out and fall out, but will not heal, and a hollow will also form.
Hollows on apple trees lead to a reduction in their life and fruiting and require special attention from the gardener.
How to prune a two year old apple tree
The main trunk of a two-year-old apple tree consists of several growing side shoots.
Leave 3–5 of the strongest shoots , forming a right angle with the trunk. All others must be removed without regret.
The formation of a strong crown depends on the angle of inclination of the pagon to the trunk. The wider it is, the higher the strength will be, the earlier the fruiting period will begin.
Trimming also applies to the main conductor . It should be 4 to 5 buds higher than other shoots.
To form a crown of the correct shape, the length of the lower branches should be 30 cm longer than the rest.
In this way, a rounded, regular crown of a two-year-old apple tree .
Important! You just need to make sure that the upper bud of the branch that remains on the trunk is located on the side opposite to it, where the shoot will develop.
Pruning a two-year-old apple tree according to the rules.
Pinching (pinching)
Performed in summer and spring, pinching (pinching) an apple tree - removing the grassy tip of a shoot - is done with your fingers or pruning shears.
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It redirects tree sap to root growth, does not allow excess branches to grow , but strengthens skeletal ones and forms fruits, promoting earlier fruiting.
Shoots of poorly branching varieties are pinched when three visible buds appear on them. Strongly branching shoots - above five buds.
In the month of May, sprouts that have reached a length of 12-15 cm are pinched above the fourth or fifth leaf.
Pinching of apple trees is carried out until mid-July so as not to reduce the frost resistance of the branch.
What time of year should I prune?
There is no consensus among gardeners about what time of year is most suitable for pruning branches .
Some prefer to produce it in early spring, others in the fall, after harvesting. For some, summer pruning of tree branches before autumn fruiting begins is more acceptable.
This process is performed in order to improve further development and fruiting.
Having planted a seedling in the soil, the gardener is responsible for ensuring that its crown is formed correctly.
By promptly removing unnecessary branches, you can create a lush crown with a large and high-quality harvest .
CAREFULLY! Incorrect pruning actions can lead to weakening of the apple tree and deprive the harvest for the coming autumn.
Pruning a young apple tree in spring
Removal of unnecessary branches of young apple trees is carried out in the first year after planting.
Spring is the best time for pruning. The procedure is carried out until sap flow begins and the buds bloom. Its main task is to supply nutrients that have accumulated in the trunk to the desired areas that will bear fruit.
As soon as sap flow begins, they will also flow to the apple tree cuts, which will allow them to recover faster. Depending on climatic conditions, pruning begins in March and ends in early April.
Regardless of when the apple tree is planted (in autumn or spring), the pruning method is the same.
Since the root system has become smaller after digging, and the above-ground non-shortened part requires more moisture and nutrients, it is necessary to restore the balance between them.
Tradeoffs and Limitations
There will always be compromises in pruning; you can stimulate growth, but you cannot achieve it. Think about the cuts you need to make.
Think about what's left after you cut - you may have to leave a few branches that aren't perfect because otherwise there wouldn't be anything left!
- Never remove more than 1/3 of the apple tree. Keeping the root structure (and associated energy stores) in balance above the ground is a critical key to a healthy apple tree.
- Pruning apple trees on an annual basis ensures that you generally do not remove more than 5-10% of the tree's growth in any given year.
Apple tree pruning is absolutely essential for a productive backyard garden. By following these recommendations, you will set yourself up for a long, healthy and productive apple harvest.
Useful videos
Watch a detailed story from an experienced agronomist about pruning young apple trees:
Find out how to prune a young apple tree in spring: videos and tips.
For this purpose, the first pruning is carried out. It should be carried out in such a way as to immediately outline the appearance of the future crown. Do not allow any deviations in its structure to develop or correct them in a timely manner, without waiting for the apple tree to acquire serious dimensions.
ADVICE! On a young tree, part of the trunk is cut so that at least two buds remain on the remaining part.
Pruning a young apple tree in summer
Young apple trees need summer pruning, as well as watering and fertilizing.
By removing the branches, the crown of the tree is formed , which will allow you to get a large amount of better quality harvest.
If young apple trees are not pruned in summer, they will go wild. And the fruits will become small and tasteless.
To provide the leaves and fruits with the necessary amount of sunlight , as well as a convenient ripening period in the future, it is important to know exactly how to properly prune a young apple tree.
The main task in the process of summer pruning of young apple trees is to thin out the crown to provide the apple tree with adequate ventilation and lighting. This is necessary to achieve a bountiful harvest of high quality.
Summer pruning.
Before you begin pruning, you need to determine what is currently required from this process. This affects the deadlines and the work schedule .
Not all gardeners do summer pruning. But you shouldn’t neglect it. At this time, all the trees in the garden are completely in foliage and you can immediately identify which branch is causing the shading. They need to either be shortened or completely removed.
This is interesting! In summer, the apple tree forms new shoots. To prevent them from growing, they are pinched.
Many gardeners practice breaking out branches that interfere with development.
When carrying out summer pruning, the use of tools is not necessary. A top growing vertically will thicken the crown; it must be broken off without much pity.
It should be remembered: if you ignore pruning in summer and do not remove young shoots, after a few years you will have to cut off full branches , since fruiting depends on a sufficient amount of air and sunlight.
Pruning young apple trees in autumn: diagram
In August, juice is still completely circulating in the apple tree. But the autumn months (September, October, November) are completely suitable for carrying out this process. Read more about autumn pruning of apple trees at the link.
Adhering to certain rules, pruning of branches occurs after the growth of the shoots has stopped. This phase can be determined by the formed apical bud of the shoot. At this time, nutrients will completely stop flowing from the leaves to the root part.
The optimal month for pruning is October. The leaves do not fall yet at this time, they only change their color. Until persistent cold sets in and the weather remains dry and warm, wounds on trees will heal faster.
Trim damaged, dry branches. Using garden varnish or oil paint , cover the cut area.
Pruning to form the crown of young apple trees is not recommended. Shortened annual growths and branches may freeze.
When forming a crown, heavy pruning should not be carried out. Annual growths are enriched with nutrients, and a young apple tree may lose them. This will weaken the growth process, worsen the ovary, which will lead to fruit shedding.
This process should be carried out in dry, cloudy weather, if desired, choosing a suitable day according to the lunar calendar.
Required Tools
To carry out the event you will need the following tools:
- garden knife;
- saw;
- pruner
When choosing a tool, take into account the thickness of the trimmed shoots.
It is unacceptable to use a construction saw for pruning, as it severely injures the trees.
Pruning shears will be needed to shorten the ends of branches during formative pruning. Thick shoots are removed using a saw and garden knife. The finer the teeth of the saw, the less risk of damaging the garden crop.
Before pruning, all tools must be well sharpened and treated with an antiseptic, for example:
- alcohol;
- formaldehyde solution (5%);
- vodka.
Karbovka
Carbing is performed to stimulate branch growth. This gardening technique can cause a shoot to appear from a dormant bud, and it can also moderate the growth of strong shoots - it all depends on the location and nature of the cuts.
The method is suitable only for the formation of “youth” capable of actively vegetating; it does not work on adults.
The procedure consists of removing a piece of bark along with wood (about 3-4 cm) above the bud from which the branch should grow. The shape of the incision can be different - semi-lunar, rectangular, triangular. The juices will linger in this particular bud, unable to move higher, and it will sprout.
The method is also used to strengthen weak shoots. To slow down the growth of a strong branch, an incision to remove the bark is made underneath it.
Apple tree carb.
