Thuja diseases and their treatment, the needles have turned black, what to do, photo video

Late blight

Late blight is considered the most famous and dangerous fungal disease of thuja. This is a root disease that destroys its top layer. This is reflected in the appearance of the thuja as follows: it withers, turns gray, and the lower part of the trunk becomes soft to the touch. The tissue under the bark will turn brown and a coating will appear underneath. The root becomes brittle and smells rotten.

Phytovtora thuja - a dangerous fungal disease

Basically, late blight affects thujas growing on soil that is poorly drained; the water here often stagnates.

Treatment

To prevent late blight, it is necessary to frequently water the thuja with fungicides. If the disease nevertheless reaches it and the roots fester, it is best to destroy the tree and replace the soil, since this fungus can live for a long time.

Prohibited drugs for hyperthyroidism

Hyperthyroidism is often combined with other diseases, both endocrine and non-endocrine in nature, so it is very important to know which medications you should not take if you have been diagnosed with thyrotoxicosis

Iodine for hyperthyroidism

Iodine and iodine-containing drugs are not prescribed when diagnosing hyperthyroidism. An exception may be the situation when this diagnosis is made to a woman for the first time during pregnancy. An obstetrician-gynecologist leading a pregnancy can still prescribe an iodine-containing drug, but in limited dosages. Iodine for hyperthyroidism up to 50 mcg daily should not harm either the woman or the fetus. Dosages above are undesirable.

Iodomarin

The drug iodomarin is prescribed to replenish the lack of iodine in the patient’s body. Therefore, its use in the treatment of hyperthyroidism is unacceptable.

Thyroxine

One of the hormones produced by the thyroid gland is thyroxine. Therefore, the drug thyroxine, the active ingredient of which is the enzyme thyroxine, is prescribed to patients suffering from a deficiency of this substance. Therefore, the drug cannot be used in the treatment of hyperthyroidism caused by excess thyroxine in the body.

Aritmil

The antiarrhythmic drug Arrhythmil is not allowed to be administered to a patient with a history of hyperthyroidism.

Thuja diseases and treatment methods

Thuja is resistant to diseases, but improper care and high humidity can lead to diseases.

Below are the symptoms and external manifestations of various infections of the species of this culture, including the diseases of the popular thuja emerald and how to cure them from ailments.

• Late blight is the most serious fungal disease. Poor soil drainage and high groundwater levels can cause disease. The fungus, having settled on the roots, destroys the top layer, it becomes brittle, a rotten smell appears, and over time it spreads throughout the entire plant. The trunk near the surface of the earth becomes loose and soft to the touch. The bark and needles take on a gray tint. The color of the trunk under the bark changes, it becomes brown. The plant is withering. If rescue measures are not taken, the thuja may die.
• Brown shoots are a fungal infection. Signs appear in the spring: yellowing of the scales begins, which then spreads to the entire shoot, and it dies.
• Arborvitae rust and arborvitae are fungal diseases often present on young arborvitae. The needles darken and then fall off. Infestation usually begins in the spring but continues throughout the year. The fungus that causes these diseases is always present in areas where coniferous crops grow, so the occurrence of the disease cannot be explained by a specific cause.
• Brown schutte, or “snow mold,” appears on pine needles after the snow melts. A gray-black coating in the form of a cobweb is visible on the brown dead needles. Then dots appear - the bodies of the mushroom. The needles do not fall off for a long time, thin branches die off.

  
  Thuja diseases

• The tinder fungus penetrates the thuja with its spores through mechanical damage or dry twigs. In these places, growths appear - the body of the fungus. The tree turns yellow and dries out.
• Fusarium root blight manifests itself by yellowing, reddish coloring of needles and drying out of the tree. Crohn's disease becomes rare. This is a fungal disease that affects the root system and blood vessels, stopping the supply of nutrition to the aboveground part. The shoots begin to dry, and then the whole plant. The disease most often affects weak and young specimens with insufficient nutrition. Treatment mainly consists of prevention.

If you suddenly notice alarming symptoms on your thujas, do not immediately panic, thinking that your shrubs have been attacked by a terrible fungal disease. First, pay attention to the specific symptoms, the time they appeared, and the weather. Many symptoms are not of fungal origin, since their cause is physiological.

A good example of this is the darkening of thuja scales that occurs in the fall. In autumn, the upper part of the scales turns brown, and in spring it is reborn in green. This is a completely natural physiological process in thujas preparing for winter, and you should not be particularly afraid of it. This symptom is observed in many popular thuja varieties, including fast-growing hedge varieties such as Thuja Brabant. Another popular variety planted as a hedge, Thuja Smaragd, also has a tendency for needles to darken in winter.

It is important to note that baldness of thuja needles is common during the winter season. Most likely, the plants were frozen, since thuja is a highly durable plant that, as an evergreen, needs water throughout the year, as well as in winter. At this time, the stems of the thuja are dried out by frosty dry winds, and the plant cannot take the missing water from the frozen soil and dries out.

It is difficult to imagine a garden without popular and extremely spectacular coniferous shrubs. We can enjoy their beauty throughout the year, but they require special protection from diseases, pests and nutritional deficiencies.

If you have a pet (dog or cat) that will urinate on your arborvitae, then you can be sure that the shrubs will probably begin to discolor and die. On the lower shoots the scales will become black and shiny. The only way to prevent this is to surround the plants with netting, which will prevent the animal from accessing the plant.

Improper watering or using fertilizers that are too concentrated can also cause burns and frying of the thuja needles. Therefore, before we start taking serious measures against these diseases, we first need to make sure whether this symptom is actually caused by a disease or is the result of improper plant care.

The most common symptom of improperly fertilized thujas is their yellowing and browning. To prevent this, it is necessary to provide them with the optimal dose of nutrients regularly.

Pests

All varieties of thuja can be parasitized by 7 species of insect pests. Among them are those that specialize in pine needles, stem wood, branches and unripe (green) cone fruits. Most of them are oligophages, i.e. parasitic on a small group of plants, which include thuja, juniper and cypress crops. Pests can be divided into groups.

Sucking

These insects suck the juices from the needles, which leads to its yellowing and death. These are two varieties of coccids (juniper and thuja false scale) and one oligophagous variety of aphids. The thuja aphid is monoecious, non-migratory and is found infrequently, but everywhere. It affects 2-3 year old shoots, parasitizing on their underside.

Insect miners

This is the name of pests whose food is the leaf or coniferous tissue itself, in the process of eating which they build internal passages. The thujas are parasitized by the thuja-mining moth, which lays its tiny caterpillars in the thickness of the needles. However, they can be easily seen in the light. The amount of damage to the viability of the plant can be assessed as insignificant, but the decorative appearance of the specimen may suffer greatly.

Stem pests

The second name of this group is xylophagous insects. Despite the fact that the target of their attack is the trunks and branches of the plant, in advanced cases the needles also begin to turn yellow, not receiving enough nutrients.

The selection of funds depends on the type of lesion and season. In particular:

• For coccids (scale insects and false scale insects), Karbofos is used. Preventive treatment is carried out in June, before the buds open. If a lesion has already occurred, it is recommended to use Actellik or Rogor twice a day with a break of 2 weeks.
• Thuja aphids are sensitive to Actellik, Fufanon and the drug Decis Profi. Preventative spraying is recommended to be carried out in May, in case of damage - at any time.
• A severe invasion of leaf-eating and sucking pests requires radical measures. Branches that cannot be restored are cut and burned, and the cut areas are treated with oil paint or drying oil.
• If holes are found in the bark, injections of undiluted Actellik are made directly into the trunk at the rate of 1 ampoule for every 1 square meter. m. This amount is calculated as 1 drop for each injection.

Brown shoots

This is a fungal disease that appears in early spring. You can notice it by its yellowed scales. At a late stage of development, the disease affects the entire shoot and it dies.

Brown shoots

How to overcome it?

To protect the thuja from this disease, it is constantly fed, and the roots are also sprinkled with limestone. During the period July-October until October itself, it is advisable to spray the thuja with Fundazol (2% solution) every 2 weeks. If you see at least one affected shoot, it should be cut out immediately, and then the disease will not spread further.

Blackening on the branches of the Lujia tree.

Is there a dog on the property? Unfortunately, this is usually how dogs mark their territory, and this is a typical consequence. “It’s like being in diesel or some kind of machine oil.” - I thought. ". Perhaps not in this case, but dogs are a real threat to most conifers and boxwoods.

This often happens in animals. With thuja trees, especially with cats. They "love" this tree.

Thanks for the advice. Here's a photo:

Good morning! I do not know what to do. We bought thujas in a pot. There were no signs of disease or pests. After 3 weeks the needles began to change. First one turned black, then the other. Also on other trees the needles began to change color. I've watched so many videos, read so many articles, but I still can't figure out the reason. Were the arborvitae already “sick” when I bought them?

Thuja false scale

If the bark is covered with yellow ulcers that gradually grow and increase in size, your tree has contracted the false scale insect. Treatment should be started immediately, otherwise this disease will cause spots to cover the entire trunk and it will die.

Thuja false scale

How to treat?

In order to destroy the false scale insect, the following means are used: Rogor, Karbofos, Actellik, Antio.

There are also traditional methods. To prevent this disease, you can wrap the trunk with straw or burlap. At the same time, treat the branches with a soap solution containing denatured alcohol (15 grams of soap, 10 ml of alcohol and 1 liter of warm water). Another way is to apply special caterpillar glue to the surface (this will prevent pests from reaching it).

Once you notice just a few larvae, try simply brushing them off with a brush or knife without damaging the bark.

Non-communicable diseases

These include diseases caused by improper care or unfavorable external factors.

Burns.
They can appear at any time of the year and change color. The risk is especially great in the spring, when the roots are still dormant and the needles are already evaporating under the influence of sunlight. In summer this can be caused by direct sunlight, and in winter by light reflected from snow, roofs and windows. Protect the plants by blanching and covering them with canopies, and water them in the spring.

Damage and drying of roots.

When digging up coniferous trees, keep a ball of earth around the root system so as not to damage the poorly regenerating absorptive roots. Thuja is very sensitive to drying out roots, so it is recommended to mulch the soil around the trunk and regular watering after planting. Experts recommend treatment with the drug “Phytoumbrella Coniferous”. This natural rooting aid stimulates root formation and seedling growth, achieving rooting rates of up to 99%. Treated plants take root and grow better and become resistant to diseases and pests. In addition, treatment with “Phytoumbrella” has a positive effect on the appearance of plants, improving their decorative value.

Lack of nutrients.

The lack of necessary elements leads to a decrease in decorativeness and slows down the growth of plants. Timely application of fertilizers strengthens the immune system and stimulates the growth of thujas. As a supplement, you can use aminosol - a liquid organic compound from animal products containing a full range of amino acids. Experts also note the effectiveness of the water-soluble drug MicroMix. This balanced complex fertilizer does not contain chlorine and heavy metals.

Low temperatures.

Thujas are frost-resistant, but sudden changes in temperature, such as spring frosts, can damage the needles and bark. In winter, branches can break off under the weight of accumulated snow.

Atmospheric pollutants.

Urban air pollution can cause branches to turn yellow.

But suddenly our thujas began to disappear - many of them simply turned black, especially the lower ones.

And plants in general don't look as beautiful as they used to. At the end of the article I will leave a video in which I will show how thujas affect and how my wife and I solved this problem. Take a look, you'll like it.

First of all, determine the reason, there are only two of them:

• animal excrement;
• fungus.

But before finding out the cause, it is necessary to spray the plant with fungicides 1-2 times against fungal diseases as a preventive measure.

Blackening of needles occurs when exposed to urine; these areas will be located at a certain height and have a chaotic placement, like splashes.

In this case you can:

• put up fences to protect the plant from access by animals;
• wash with water (if the impact is minor);
• apply repellent aerosols;
• sprinkle with ground pepper;
• spray with growth stimulants (zircon, epin) 2-3 times with an interval of 1-2 weeks.

  
  Zircon

  Read also:  Winter Garden - an oasis of beauty, inspiration and peace

If this is a fungal infection, upon careful examination you will notice fungal spores in the form of black dots or dashes. And begin treatment procedures to eliminate the fungal disease.

What to do if the thuja turns black after winter?

With the onset of warmth and the end of winter cold, it is discovered that dark spots appear on the thuja. Beginning gardeners will not immediately be able to guess the reasons for this problem. What measures should be taken if the thuja turns black after winter? What to do in this situation and how to help the plant?

Very often, the causes of dark spots on thuja are the excrement of pets. You need to take a closer look: if the spots are randomly located and are at the lower level, then this is exactly the case. Unfortunately, with extensive damage there is very little chance of saving the plant, but a small number of branches can be washed with clean water. After this, it is necessary to put a fence around the thuja and prevent contact with pets. Periodically, the bush is fed with growth stimulants.

Fungal diseases of thuja and their treatment are a much more serious matter. One wash won't do it. The fungus can also cause blackening, but it is also characterized by the formation of spores. For a small affected area, thuja is treated with a fungicide twice, maintaining an interval of 1-2 weeks. Damaged parts of the plant are removed, and then preventive measures are taken (spraying with Bordeaux mixture or biofungicides).

Dead plants are a source of infection, so care must be taken to remove them from the site in a timely manner. Damaged branches are also removed and burned to prevent the disease from spreading to another area.

If the thuja has spent the winter covered, there is no need to rush to remove the covering material from it: this should be done gradually so that the plant has the opportunity to get used to the sun and not get burned. If the site is located in a place exposed to the sun, then it is better to install a sun shield on the south side. If you follow these simple rules, the thuja will be healthy, green and will serve as a real decoration of the landscape.

Video about thuja diseases

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Schutte and rust

Fungal diseases manifested by darkening and falling of needles. They begin in the spring and spread throughout the year. Mostly young trees are affected.

Schutte and rust are the most dangerous diseases of thuja

To stop the development of the disease, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and burn them to prevent it from spreading to other coniferous trees. But this doesn't always help.

It is best to treat affected trees with HOM. The consumption rate of the drug is 40 g/10 l of water. This solution should be sprayed on the affected trees twice a season: in the spring (May) and in the summer when the disease reappears. Since both schutte and rust are common to all conifers, it is worth carrying out preventive treatment of the rest of the conifers (all, without exception). It is carried out with the same HOM in the same dose, but only once in the spring.

If there is no effect, you need to shed the trunk circles of the affected trees with Fundazol. The consumption rate of the drug is 20 g/10 l of water - a solution (0.2%) is obtained, which is poured onto the trunk circle of the affected tree once per growing season. There is no need to spray the trees with it, only the soil to destroy the infection in it.

Topsin-M is also used for Schutte: the consumption rate of the drug is 15 g/10 l of water, this solution is consumed for 1 adult plant. Spraying is carried out once in the spring after the threat of night frosts has passed.

Instead of HOM, you can buy Bordeaux mixture. This is an old, but very effective and proven remedy, suitable for many cultures. You don't have to buy it.

It's easy to prepare it yourself. The purchased bag contains lime and copper sulfate. This means that to prepare ten liters of a one percent solution you will need 100 g of lime and 100 g of vitriol.

It is prepared like this:

1. Vitriol (copper sulfate) is diluted in a glass or wooden container (in no case iron or plastic!). Add up to five liters of water, do the same with lime in another container;
2. The diluted vitriol is carefully poured into the slaked lime;
3. Stirs. You should get a light blue liquid;
4. To understand whether we have poured in a sufficient amount of copper sulfate, we need to take an iron object that is not covered with rust (for example, a knife) and lower it to the bottom of our liquid. The appearance of a red coating means too much;
5. This can be easily fixed by adding lime. It is necessary to check, otherwise you can burn the plants.

With this working solution, preventive spraying can be carried out every spring (during the growth of new needles) at the rate of 10 l/100 m².

The most common thuja diseases and their treatment

Proper care of thuja so that it does not dry out

How to treat violet diseases at home

All coniferous crops that grow in the southern regions must be protected from the sun in the spring. Otherwise, they will not be able to avoid sunburn and the thuja will begin to turn yellow. In addition, for thuja you need to use land from under coniferous crops. You can collect such soil in the forest. It will be better if there are needles in the soil.

Feeding thuja

Feeding is an important component of care. Plants with weak immunity are most susceptible to disease. Your pets should be treated with organic matter and fertilizers on time. Every now and then they use an infusion of mullein, infused for about two weeks, 3 liters per plant.

The mistake of most summer residents is that they try to feed the thuja before hibernation. It should be remembered that in late autumn plants stop growing, and feeding, on the contrary, activates its growth. As a result, the young shoots will die in frost.

Manure is most often used to feed thuja; it is filled with water (1:4) and infused for two weeks. One plant requires approximately 2-3 liters of this infusion. It should not be poured onto the base of the trunk, but onto the soil around the tree.

The larger the thuja, the larger the radius of the circle of cultivated soil should be. As mineral fertilizers, it is good to use the preparations “Bioud” (for 1 tree 1 kg of fertilizer, used up to three times per season), “Idol-universal” (for 1 square meter 120 g of the drug), “Epin” solution (for 5 liters of water 1 ampoule of the drug).

Thuja is preparing to rest - the growth of shoots stops, they ripen. And feeding will stimulate the growth of the tree; young shoots will go into the winter weak and may die. Therefore, August is the last month when thuja is fed before wintering.

Thuja has dried up, how to revive it, is this even possible?

First you need to figure out what caused this:

• poor care;
• color change in winter;
• spring burn;
• excess fertilizers or drugs;
• excess or lack of moisture;
• presence of pests or diseases.

After determining the cause, they begin to eliminate the specific factor.

Important! When planting thuja, you should take into account the possibility of transferring infections and pests from one tree to another and plant them at a distance of no closer than half the maximum width of the crown of an adult plant.

To avoid the appearance of diseases, in the spring it is necessary to carry out an inspection: remove affected and dry branches. Then carry out preventive treatments against pests and diseases.

Bordeaux mixture has proven itself to be excellent - a very effective and proven remedy for years.

What to do if the thuja turns brown after winter?

Let's talk about how a white coating forms on an orchid: why and how to treat it

After the long winter cold, nature begins to come to life. It is during this period that you can discover with horror that your favorite thuja has turned brown and no longer brings the joy it used to with its greenery. Is it possible to return it to its former beauty and greenery? What happened to the plant?

If the thuja turns brown after winter, then what to do in this case must be determined after establishing the causes of such a nuisance. The most likely factors are:

After identifying the root causes of thuja disease, their treatment is carried out. The photo will help to more accurately determine what exactly happened to the green beauty. To prevent burns, it is recommended to cover the plant with gauze or a mosquito net in February. If it was not possible to prevent the negative effects of sunlight, then you need to start watering with warm water, and with the onset of stable heat, cut off the darkened branches.

When water stagnates, the soil around the thuja is loosened and treated with antifungal drugs. If it is discovered that groundwater is located too close in this place, then only transplanting the bush to another place will help. It is worth fertilizing the soil only twice a year, using manure for this purpose.

Only slightly acidic and slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing thuja. If elevated levels are detected, measures must be taken to reduce them. If necessary, add lime or peat.

Thuja diseases and their treatment depend on the type of virus or pest that caused the disease. Gardeners neglect the first symptoms, and the disease begins to develop, after which the plant has to be destroyed. To prevent this from happening, in the spring you should remove all dry and damaged branches from the bushes, and treat the renewed plant with preparations intended to prevent major diseases and pests. It is very good to spray with Bordeaux mixture.

Bottom line

Proper care and timely assistance will protect and cure your thuja from many possible diseases and pests. But it is also important to remember that shedding and yellowing of needles does not necessarily signal the appearance of some kind of disease.

Thuja often changes color and sheds its needles at the end of the growing season. Its appearance may indicate that it is dying. But in fact, it is simply preparing for winter, and the change in the color of the needles is just its protective reaction.

— pests of thuja and methods of combating them;

— protection of thuja from sunburn;

— planting thuja and caring for it.

Improper care

Over or under watering

Thuja loves well-moistened soil, but cannot tolerate stagnant moisture, as well as close groundwater.

The recommended frequency of watering for thuja is once a week, during dry periods - twice a week, and in the first month after planting - daily.

The volume of water for irrigation, under normal conditions, should be a bucket per tree (in unfavorable conditions, two buckets). In order for moisture to be retained in the soil, but not to stagnate, the soil in the tree trunk circle must be mulched: in winter with sawdust, in summer with peat.

Excessive watering and stagnation of moisture for more than two weeks lead to rotting of the plant roots and contribute to the development of fungal diseases. With insufficient watering, the thuja turns yellow and dries out.

She loves thuja and periodic sprinkling, especially in the summer heat. It is better to do this in the evening so that drops on the needles do not cause sunburn.

Errors in feeding

Fertilizers for thuja are useful, but in moderation. If fertilizers were applied during planting, then the next time the tree will need to be fed in two years.

In spring, the plant is fertilized with nitrogen compounds, and in early summer with potassium compounds. If the tree grows in poor soil, then in the summer you will also need fertilizers containing phosphorus. However, it is worth remembering that excessive application of fertilizers can cause burns to the roots and yellowing of the tips of the shoots.

Important! Under no circumstances should you feed thuja before the winter period. This is fraught with the development of various kinds of diseases.

In this case, the thuja should be fertilized with a complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal or Osmokot.

In this case, the thuja should be fertilized with a complex fertilizer, for example, Kemira Universal or Osmokot.

Wrong choice of place for thuja

When choosing a place to plant an ephedra, you need to take into account the fact that the tree grows well on well-drained soil consisting of turf, peat, and sand. Planting it in sandy, clay or peaty soils can negatively affect the development of the plant, causing yellowing and shedding of needles or drying out of the lower branches.

Did you know?
In the wild, the most beautiful thujas grow in moist, fresh, slightly acidic or neutral soils in mixed forests.
Thickened plantings are also harmful to thuja.

In places where branches of different trees come into contact, the needles may turn yellow and fall off. The recommended minimum distance between seedlings is 1 m.

Thuja is a light-loving plant, so it must be planted in open areas.

However, for the first time after planting, it is important to shade the seedling from the sun, otherwise the needles may lighten. It is advisable to choose a place for planting where direct sunlight will not fall on it at midday. Of course, thuja will not grow in full shade and will completely lose its attractiveness

Remember: the condition and appearance of the plant in the future will depend on the correct planting and choice of location.

Of course, thuja will not grow in full shade and will completely lose its attractiveness. Remember: the condition and appearance of the plant in the future will depend on the correct planting and choice of location.

Control measures

How to get rid of pests? This question haunts many indoor plant lovers. Pest control can be done in a variety of ways. For example:

• Mechanical.
• With the help of biological drugs.
• Using chemical control agents.
• Based on folk recipes.

Pests of indoor plants and their control, plant protection, how to get rid of them

Mechanical method

This is an environmentally friendly, simple and affordable way to combat parasites on your own. To do this, you need to take a tool, preferably disinfected, and cut off the damaged parts of the plants. It is better to treat the cut areas with activated carbon. Pests that can be seen with the naked eye can be picked out with your hands without any problems, unless there are so many plants and pests.

Folk remedies

To protect them from various insects, as well as in cases of their diseases, many lovers of indoor plants prefer folk remedies. These products have been tested for many decades, so there is no doubt about their effectiveness. Decoctions prepared from plants such as chamomile, nettle, yarrow, dandelion or marigold are absolutely harmless to humans and plants. Solutions prepared with garlic and onions have the same effect. The prepared solutions are simply sprayed on the plants almost every day.

As an option, you can use citrus peels, which should simply be buried in the ground. The smell of these components cannot be tolerated by many parasites that want to settle on indoor plants.

Solutions based on wood ash, furatsillin, soda or potassium permanganate work no less effectively in this direction. You just need to prepare the solution correctly, after which the plants are sprayed with a spray bottle.

Biological method

Biological preparations differ in that they act only on certain types of pests and are safe for humans and pets. Despite this, the working composition must be prepared correctly and used correctly. For example:

• The solution is prepared strictly according to the instructions.
• After treatment, the plant should dry.
• The room needs to be well ventilated.

For such purposes, you can use control agents such as Agrovertin, Fitoverm or Iskra-Bio.

Chemical method

Chemicals are highly effective, so in a short period of time it is possible to get rid of all pests. The only problem is their toxicity, which poses a danger to both humans and pets. Such drugs are best used in extreme cases, especially since they cannot always be used.

Products such as Chlorophos, Pyrethrum, Karbofos and others will help quickly rid plants of harmful insects.

The fight against harmful insects is a responsible undertaking that allows you to preserve your home plants in their pristine beauty.

How to get rid of pests in pots and indoor plants!

Why do rose stems turn black?

The most common cause is bacterial stem cancer, or fire blight. The causative agent of this disease is the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae. Round brown depressed spots appear on the stems. Over time, these areas of plant tissue die, resulting in deep black-brown ulcers. The affected stems gradually dry out.

Control measures

1. Bacteria persist in plant debris, so promptly discard and burn all affected roses.
2. If not all parts of the plant are affected, try to save the flower. To do this, disinfect the stems with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and cover the ulcers and cuts with garden varnish.
3. For preventative purposes, in the spring (before the leaves bloom), spray the rose garden with 1% Bordeaux mixture. When preparing roses for winter, repeat the treatment.

Beneficial features

Highly nutritious, fleshy mushrooms are rich in easily digestible proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. The protein content in fruiting bodies is high - up to 33 g per 100 g of dry matter; when boiled, they can be successfully used in dietary nutrition as a replacement for meat or fish.

Vitamins of group B, carotene and ascorbic acid are significantly represented, which have a positive effect on the functioning of the nervous system, the stability of the immune system, and the functioning of the hematopoietic organs.

Unique in their kind, mushrooms contain an active form of vitamin D, in this form it is found only in products of animal origin. This important element is necessary for the prevention of osteoporosis, maintains healthy skin and hair, and directly affects the absorption and balance of calcium and phosphorus.

Active antibacterial substances that inhibit the tuberculosis bacillus were found in pepper milk; its positive effect in the treatment of kidney diseases, in particular urolithiasis, is also known. These healing properties are widely used in folk medicine.

During the preparation of pickled pickles, during fermentation with the participation of lactic acid, special substances are produced that have an anti-inflammatory effect and lower cholesterol levels.