25 types of echeveria: how to care for them at home and grow them yourself?

Many gardeners love to grow exotic plants at home. One of these interesting representatives of the flora is Echeveria. People call it stone rose.

Its unusual appearance and coloring made it an indispensable inhabitant for alpine slides and multi-level flower beds and for home window sills. But before planting, you should familiarize yourself with the types and varieties of Echeveria, photos are presented below.

Origin story

This succulent is native to Mexico. It is also found in the United States and Peru; some species were found in the Caucasus mountains.

Echeveria was first mentioned in scientific works in the 19th century . However, by that time the plant had long spread throughout the world thanks to trade relations. The stone rose was grown in the palaces and gardens of wealthy aristocrats, it was added to the bouquets of court ladies, and used as decoration for dresses, hats, carriages, and so on.

Echeveria – photo

Only at first glance, echeveria may seem completely unremarkable and banal. But in fact, they are all special and unique!

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Description and characteristics

Names: what are they called and why?

The genus was named after the Mexican artist Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, who illustrated books on the flora of Mexico and was the first to describe an exotic plant with fleshy, dense leaves collected in a rosette. Therefore, abroad the plant is called “echeveria”, after the artist’s surname, but in Russia and the CIS countries they use the more familiar version “echeveria”. The leaf plates of the plant are so saturated with moisture that they are as hard as stone, which is why echeveria is popularly called “stone flower” and “stone rose”.

Sometimes echeveria is called “juvenile” because of its external resemblance to the plant of the same name, but these are two different flowers, the differences of which will be discussed below in the corresponding section.

Botanical characteristics

Rejuvenating and Echeveria: differences

Rose Black Prince - description of the variety

Juvenile and echeveria are very similar in appearance, they can even be confused. To prevent this from happening, you need to familiarize yourself with the main differences:

• Juveniles lack a stem, and the rosette develops directly from the soil. Echeveria most often has a slightly pronounced stem;
• the leaves of the American succulent are more fleshy and dense, while the leaves of the young are thinner;
• Echeveria flowers are usually located on a stalk that rises upward, while in juveniles they are located directly on the peduncle.

For your information! The succulent is drought tolerant, but cannot withstand severe frosts. Juveniles feel good at low temperatures and cold snaps.

Echeveria is a beautiful and original flower that is used to decorate rooms and summer cottages. The plant has a variety of species, colors and shapes. Significant advantages of the culture are its ease of care and resistance to drought.

Plant structure

It is not for nothing that Echeveria is considered an exotic plant.
The appearance of the stone flower is amazing, varied and depends on the species. Echeveria can either lack a stem or reach 70 cm in height. Some species produce creeping shoots. The leaves are dense, filled with moisture . Most often they have an oval shape with a pointed tip. The length of the leaf plate is from 6 to 30 cm, width is 4-15 cm. The leaves form a loose or dense rosette, reminiscent of a lotus or rose. Echeveria has different colors: all shades of green, scarlet, burgundy, purple, pink, blue, lilac. Some species have pubescence or a waxy coating on the surface of the leaves, which performs a protective function (prevents moisture loss).

Echeveria throws out lateral or vertical peduncles (sometimes arrows) up to 50 cm in height. Small inflorescences of bells form on them; the color of the petals varies from yellow to red. Flowering occurs in spring or summer and lasts from 2 weeks to a month. Sometimes babies form at the tops of the peduncle, which can then be transplanted into a separate container.

Features of growth

Echeveria grows very slowly, the height depends on the specific species and varies from 5 to 70 cm. It can be a creeping plant or a shrub.

Root system

The plant has a superficial or filamentous root system. Echeveria receives all its nutrients from the top layer of soil, so when growing a flower at home, the soil is updated annually.

Difficulty growing

Caring for a stone flower is very easy, which is why beginners love to grow it. The plant's homeland is deserts and semi-deserts, so it is enough just to provide good lighting and moderate watering.

How long does it live?

With proper care, echeveria can live up to 50 years. There are also centenarians, whose age is about 8-9 decades.

Indoor varieties of echeveria

Of the 200 existing species of echeveria, a sufficient portion of them grow well at home. Most Popular:

1. agave;
2. hump-flowered;
3. The Pearl of Nuremberg;
4. bristly;
5. Lau et al.

They all differ in botanical characteristics and color, so many gardeners prefer to grow several varieties at the same time.

Find more information about varieties and hybrid varieties of the plant here.

Signs and superstitions

In ancient Rome, it was believed that echeveria protected against black magic and the evil eye. In the Middle Ages, this plant was planted on the roofs of houses to ward off lightning and thunder.

Thanks to the unpretentiousness of the stone flower, people believed that echeveria was an excellent talisman against sorcerers and witches . In Rus' they believed that if a person is constantly near this plant, then his body is saturated with vitality and energy.

Sometimes echeveria was planted on graves to help the deceased cleanse himself and continue his journey to heaven. Because of this, for some time the plant was no longer grown in houses and flower beds. Now the stone rose is considered an assistant in cleansing space and attracting positive emotions. Many florists use echeveria when making wedding bouquets, believing that it will bring happiness and love into the bride's life.

Useful properties and applications

In addition to decorative purposes, echeveria is also grown for its healing properties.

Chemical composition

Echeveria contains mineral compounds of chlorine (0.9 mg) and iron (1.3 mg), polysaccharides, ascorbic acid (12 mg), various amino acids and flavonoids (neutralize free radicals and prevent the development of cancer).

Use in folk medicine

Echeveria is often used in traditional medicine recipes to treat coughs, colds and bronchitis. To do this, the juice of the young leaves of the plant is diluted with chilled boiled water (1:1) and taken 1 tablespoon 3 times a day before meals.

REFERENCE To obtain freshly squeezed juice, cut off the lower young leaf (2-3 years old). The skin is removed from it, and the resulting pulp is squeezed out and filtered through cheesecloth or a fine sieve.

2-3 drops of this solution can be instilled into each nostril to eliminate the symptoms of a runny nose.

Application in household and cosmetology

The pulp of echeveria leaves is used to treat acne and boils. To do this, remove the skin from the young leaf, chop the pulp with a knife or fork and apply it as a mask to a sore spot (acne, inflammation, boil). The mask is kept for 15-20 minutes, after which it is washed off with warm water.

A compress of leaves is also applied to the boil. The young leaf is crushed using a knife or blender and applied to the inflammation, covered with film and wrapped with a scarf or gauze. The compress is left overnight. The procedure is repeated if necessary until a positive result.

In addition, freshly squeezed juice of echeveria leaves is added to a hair mask . Just a few drops are enough. You can use a store-bought product or make it yourself. For example, beat an egg yolk, add 5-7 drops of echeveria juice and 2-3 tablespoons of sour cream. The mixture is applied along the entire length of the hair, avoiding the roots. Leave the mask on for 20-30 minutes, then wash off with warm water.

Transplantation after purchase and more

Young plants (under 3 years of age) are replanted once a year, and subsequently once every 3-4 years. The optimal time for this event is spring.

The process includes several stages:

• Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the prepared container; for this purpose, you can use broken brick, expanded clay or crushed clay shards.
• Fill the drainage layer with substrate and place the flower in the center of the pot.
• Sprinkle fresh soil around the perimeter of the plant, using your fingers to remove any air pockets that form.
• At the final stage, surround the root collar of the echeveria with small pebbles or a layer of coarse river sand to improve the outflow of moisture.

Leave the transplanted plant for 7-10 days in a shaded place.

Types and classification

At the moment, more than 200 species of this plant are known. The systematization of Echeveria species is quite extensive. The varieties of this plant are divided according to the following criteria:

• by structure – dense or loose rosette;
• by the color of the plates - the leaves of the hybrids are characterized by different colors, there are all shades of green, pink, lilac, yellow, purple, red;
• according to the root system - the roots of the plant are both superficial and thread-like;
• along the stem - there are varieties with a rosette growing from the soil, or creeping when it rises above the ground;
• by the color of the leaves under special lighting - red or yellow.

Agave echeveria (Echeveria Agavoides)

A bushy flower native to Mexico. It has almost no stem, the leaf blades are ellipsoidal, light green with silver. Large rosettes, up to 30 cm. Blooms with red or yellow bells.

Echeveria shaviana (Echeveria shaviana)

The rosette of Chauviana looks like a loose head of cabbage with gray-blue leaves wavy at the edges. In winter, the flower sheds most of its leaf plates. In June, 2-3 peduncles are thrown out, which begin to bloom alternately.

Echeveria Affinis "Black Knight"

Large rosettes with leaves of green and black, turning into purple pointed tips. The upper side is without bends, almost flat. With a lack of lighting, the foliage loses its dark color, becomes greener, and begins to stretch out.

Echeveria pulvinata

It grows only up to 10 cm in height. The oval leaves (ovate-shaped) with a spine at the top have a curved shape and a velvet edge. Blooms with yellow-red bells in early spring.

Elegant echeveria (Echeveria Elegans)

It has practically no stem. The rosette is lotus-shaped, with dense fleshy leaves. The bluish coating on the light green leaves performs a protective function and cannot be removed. Over time, the shoots become creeping and take root. The peduncle is vertical, with inflorescences of pink-red bells, the border of which is yellow.

Echeveria Amoena

A rare species with flat shoots and many branches. The leaves are small, bluish, triangular in shape. Flowers in yellow and red colors.

Echeveria Derenbergii

A popular species with bladed leaves of gray-green color, the edges of which are pink. Shoots creep along the ground. In March-April it produces flower stalks up to 5 cm long, on which 3-5 spike-like yellow-orange flowers bloom.

Desmeta (Echeveria desmetiana)

A dense rosette with blue leaves that become ampelous with age. In early July, yellow-orange flowers appear on the side. The species tolerates shade well.

Echeveria Gibbiflora

It is one large rosette with a tree-like stem and rounded leaves of light green color. There are irregularly shaped new growths on the surface of the leaf blade. Blooms with yellow or orange bells.

Nodulose (Echeveria nodulosa)

This species is also called nodular echeveria. The height of the flower reaches 50 cm, the rosette is loose, with obovate leaves. Their shade is bright green with a burgundy web pattern. It begins to bloom in late spring, the petals of the bells are scarlet-brown.

Metal-flowered echeveria (Echeveria metallica)

A shrub 30-40 cm high, with a loose rosette, the leaf blades of which are reddish on the outside and yellow on the inside.

Echeveria Glauca

A dense rosette with bluish leaves with a bluish tint. tone with a bluish tint. There is practically no stem. In winter, a pink edging forms along the edges of the leaf blades. Flowering begins in spring, when echeveria produces an arrow with yellow buds.

Echeveria Lauii

A species with small leaves covered with a waxy coating. The dense rosette reaches 20 cm. The flowers are yellow or orange, matte due to a thin layer of wax.

Echeveria Pulidonis

The rosette of the flower reaches 15 cm in diameter. The foliage is curved, elongated, narrow, up to 6-7 cm, blue with a pink border. The stem is missing. Blooms in summer with yellow bell buds.

brilliant echeveria

Grows as a small bush. Thick shoots extend from the main rosette, on which smaller rosettes form. The light green leaves have a waxy edge along the edges. Flowering occurs in February-March, the petals of the flowers are bright red.

Echeveria Lilacina

Belongs to a slow growing variety. The leaves are dense, hard and thick. The size of the rosette is 25 cm, the shade of the plates varies from bluish-gray to lilac. The buds are soft coral or pink. They are formed on arching reddish fifteen-centimeter arrows. Flowering occurs from the end of February to the last days of May. If a flower is placed in the sun, a waxy coating forms on the foliage, turning the leaves white.

Bristle echeveria (Echeveria setosa)

The rosette of this species is very similar to a chrysanthemum and grows up to 15 cm. The leaves are fleshy and lanceolate, green in color. Their entire surface is strewn with white fibers. The stem is up to 10 cm long, the peduncle is also covered with growth. It blooms in early summer, the color of the bells is similar to a bonfire - a mixture of orange and red.

Echeveria Black Prince

A variety of humpback-flowered echeveria. Prince's leaf blades are greenish at the base and almost black throughout the rest of the surface. The rosette is fleshy, dense, up to 15 cm in diameter. Produces a dark stalk with orange or reddish-brown buds.

Echeveria Miranda

Hybrid variety. The rosette is large, similar to a lotus flower with green petals, the tips of which are painted burgundy. In some varieties, the color of the leaves is completely burgundy, lilac, yellow, pink, and silver. Miranda is most often used when making florariums.

Echeveria Pearl of Nuremberg (Echeveria Perle von Nurnberg)

Hybrid. It has a straight and thick stem, the leaves are scarlet or pinkish-lilac. It blooms closer to summer, in outdoor conditions, producing scarlet bell flowers.

Echeveria purpusorum or Crimson (Echeveria purpusorum)

The plant is compact in height and width. Its maximum dimensions are 10 by 8 cm. The species has an unusual structure of the leaf plate - it is triangular in shape with a rigid structure with a peak-like tip. The color of the leaves is olive or marshy, with many small patches of brown. In May, the bush produces an arrow, 20 cm in height, on which red buds with an orange tint are formed.

Echeveria Cubic Frost

The leaves of this species grow with the narrow part down. They are light green in color, collected in a dense fleshy rosette, vaguely shaped like a square.

Echeveria Pollux

White-blue color with a lilac sheen and flat, wide, pointed leaves. They form a star-shaped symmetrical rosette, reminiscent of an open flower.

Echeveria Agavoides Taurus

A variety of agave-like echeveria. The difference is the change in color of the leaf plates. As it ages, it changes from light green to burgundy-violet.

Echeveria mix

Echeveria mix is ​​a combination of several species and varieties of a plant such as Echeveria. It looks most beautiful when flowers are selected that have different rosette shapes, leaf sizes and colors. They are usually collected in a florarium or other container.

FAQ

Are there non-flowering species?

With proper care, all types of echeveria produce flower stalks or arrows with inflorescences of 3-5 bells.

What species can be grown in the garden?

In the warm season, all types of this plant can be planted in open ground. However, echeveria is able to overwinter only in those regions where the temperature in the winter months does not drop below +6 degrees.

Is it possible to leave without care during the holidays?

Thanks to the unpretentiousness of the stone rose, you can safely leave it for 2-3 weeks of your vacation. To do this, leave the plant on a well-lit windowsill and moderately moisten the soil before leaving.

Is Echeveria annual or perennial?

Echeveria is a perennial plant that, with proper care, can live up to several decades.

Home care

Echeveria is an unpretentious plant that needs only good lighting and rare fertilizing. By following simple tips, you can grow this flower, even if you have never had such experience before.

Location and lighting

Stone rose is a native of deserts and semi-deserts; the plant is not afraid of direct sunlight and needs good lighting.
In the yard, this species is planted in sunny flowerbeds, away from bushes, trees and buildings - strong shading leads to a strong elongation of the rosette in height and to a delay or absence of flowering. Indoors, the pot is placed on a south or southeast window sill. It is important to monitor the length of daylight hours (10-12 hours) . In the warm season, echeveria is taken out onto the balcony or into the yard, providing it with protection from rain and wind.

Content temperature

Echeveria is a heat-loving plant, so in summer the optimal temperature is +20...+27 degrees, and in winter +10...+15. The temperature should not be allowed to drop below +6 degrees, otherwise the plant will get frostbite and die. Species whose flowering period occurs in winter are kept at +18...+20.

The leaves of the stone rose are very sensitive to cold and frost, because of which the rosette loses its attractive appearance, the leaves become asymmetrical and wither. Therefore, when ventilating, the plant is protected from cold air currents. You can use a heater, but it is better to keep it away from the flower.

How to care during the dormant period?

The dormant period of the stone flower occurs in the cold season (late October-February). A few simple rules are followed:

• 12-hour daylight using lamps;
• temperature range +8…+15 degrees;
• watering once a month.

With the onset of spring, watering is increased, fertilizer is added, and if necessary, replanting or pruning is done.

IMPORTANT ! Fertilizer is applied either a few weeks before transplantation, or 2 months after.

Watering

The plant loves moderate and scanty watering. Water the echeveria with rain or water that has stood for several days at room temperature. In summer, the soil is moistened once a week after the top layer has dried by 3-5 cm, and in winter, watering is done no more than once a month

IMPORTANT ! Do not allow moisture to stagnate at the roots and especially inside the outlet! Watering is done either through a tray, draining the remaining water after a while, or by drip to the very root.

Humidity

Like all succulents, echeveria feels comfortable in low air humidity and is not afraid of the close proximity of heating devices. It stores moisture in its leaves, so increased humidity levels will only weaken the plant’s immunity and cause diseases.

The soil

The soil for stone roses is low-nutrient, loose, with neutral acidity. You can prepare the soil mixture yourself using the following recipes:

• mix part of leaf and part of turf soil with two parts of river sand;
• add part loam and part peat to two parts coarse sand.

Self-prepared soil should be disinfected by adding a small amount of charcoal to prevent root rot.

A drainage layer (1/3 of the volume) is laid out at the bottom of the pot. Expanded clay, pebbles, brick chips or small clay shards are used.

Purchased soil for succulents, which are sold in specialized stores, is also suitable. For example:

• Gera biosoil for cacti and succulents. A pack contains 2.5 liters, peat-based soil with the addition of sapropel. Price – from 185 rubles;
• ZeoFlora soil for cacti and succulents, moisture-regulating, 2.5 l. Price – from 320 rubles;
• Fusco soil “Flower Happiness” for cacti, peat-based, 2.5 l. Price – 66 rub.
• Soil Garden of Miracles “Cactus”, peat-based, with vermicompost, 2.5 l. Price – 67 rub.

Purchased soil needs improved aeration, so coarse sand or brick chips are added to it. Select those producers who use high peat soil in the soil composition - it is light and loose. If the package indicates high acidity levels, add a handful of dolomite flour to the soil.

Pot

Due to its shallow root system, echeveria is planted in a wide, but not deep, clay or ceramic pot. Choose a light color scheme so that the walls do not get too hot in the sun. Be sure to use a tray. Many owners of this plant plant echeveria in pots, especially species with long, hanging stems.

ATTENTION ! Echeveria is often planted in large glass glasses, aquariums, florariums, and ceramic bowls to enhance the decorative effect. Such containers do not have holes for draining water, so watering is done rarely, creating desert conditions.

Feeding and fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers and humus are not used when growing echeveria. She, like other succulents, is accustomed to slow growth. These fertilizers stimulate growth, causing the surface of the leaves to crack, which causes a weakened immune system and the development of diseases.

It is enough to apply complex fertilizer for succulents and cacti once a month in spring and summer, using half the dose:

• complex fertilizer House of Bion “Cactus”, 21 rubles for 25 g;
• fertilizer for cacti UltraEffect Classic, 280 rubles per 250 g;
• Agricola fertilizer for cacti and succulents, 25 g for 22 rubles.

Trimming

Echeveria does not require formative pruning. To preserve the decorative appearance of the plant, dried lower leaves are regularly removed.

If the rosette has grown in length, cut off the top, leaving a stump of 3-4 cm. This will start the growth of new shoots.

Spraying

The plant does not need spraying or any other air humidification. Moreover, drops of water collected at the roots and traveling down the leaves can cause them to rot or become infected with pests and fungal diseases.

Care for the first time after purchase

Having bought echeveria at the market or in a store and brought it home, first of all, provide the new flower with a quarantine zone for at least 2 weeks. This is done in order to protect the remaining flowers from possible diseases or pests.

Provide the new tenant with good lighting . If the purchase happened in spring or summer, replant the plant in new soil. In winter, it is better to refrain from such a procedure.

After 2 weeks of quarantine, the pot with the stone rose can be placed on the windowsill with the rest of its inhabitants. It is better to choose low-growing plants for neighbors so that the shadow does not fall on the echeveria.

Care errors and their elimination

Common problems when growing echeveria and methods for eliminating them:

Bloom

For the first 2-3 years, young plants do not bloom. Adult plants in spring or summer produce a long lateral or vertical peduncle (up to 70 cm), on which small bell-shaped flowers are formed, collected in inflorescences. The color of the petals depends on the light. In dim light they are yellow, and in bright light they are red or orange. Flowering lasts 2-3 weeks . After the flowers fall off, babies sometimes appear at the end of the peduncle, suitable for replanting.

Flowering of echeveria can be stimulated. To do this, it is kept for 2 months at a temperature of +15...+18 degrees, and the flower is exposed to light for 12-13 hours. Under such conditions, the growth of the peduncle accelerates, and buds are formed. During this period, the stone rose is often watered and fed with fertilizers.

Transfer

It will most easily withstand the stress of replanting in the spring, growth will quickly resume, and flowering will occur in due time. For the first two to three years, the plant is replanted annually, then every three to four years, but observing the rule of annual replacement of the top layer of soil.

When necessary, desirable and undesirable

An adult plant is transplanted if the echeveria grows and becomes crowded in its original pot. You cannot replant a flower during periods of flowering or dormancy, as well as during the cold season . Sometimes transplantation is carried out in order to cure the plant from fungal diseases.

Requirements for soil and pot

The pot is chosen a little larger than it was before, made of clay or ceramic, with holes for draining water. A drainage layer is poured below (pebbles, expanded clay, brick chips), loose soil is selected, with the addition of sand (according to the recipes given above), or using purchased soil for cacti and succulents.

Step-by-step instruction

The transplant process is simple:

1. Prepare the pot, add drainage and soil.
2. Make a small depression in the soil (no more than 2-3 cm in depth), slightly larger in size than the root system of the flower.
3. Remove the echeveria from the old pot. Be careful not to damage the rosette or roots.
4. If the plant is sick, carefully clean the roots from the old soil. Healthy echeveria is transplanted with a dry clod of earth. To do this, reduce watering before transplanting.
5. Place the echeveria in the hole, sprinkle the roots with soil and press it lightly with the palm of your hand.
6. Water the flower through the tray, let the roots soak in moisture and drain off excess water, and then put the pot back in its original place.

What kind of pot is needed to grow a flower?

The container for planting echeveria should be 1.5-2 cm larger than the diameter of the plant itself and have drainage holes. Due to the shallow root system, a low and at the same time wide pot would be an ideal option.

Experienced flower growers recommend purchasing ceramic or clay containers that allow moisture and air to pass through perfectly. When giving preference to plastic products, it is worth remembering their ability to heat up quickly, which negatively affects the condition of the root system.

Growing in open ground

Stone flower is also grown in open ground. In this case, the plant will become an annual, as it will not survive temperatures below +6 degrees. If the climate in your region is warm and in winter the temperature does not fall below the specified minimum, then echeveria will germinate in the flowerbed for several years.

Landing

Planting is done at the end of April, when the soil is sufficiently warm and there is no risk of night frosts. The flower bed is chosen in a well-lit place, with neutral-acid soil (if the indicators are high, then lime is added to the soil). The soil must be loose. A handful of sand and brick chips are poured into the bottom of the hole.

Remember that echeveria has a shallow root system . There should be no trees or wild growing plants nearby that will cast a shadow on the stone rose. Immediately after planting, water the plant lightly.

Features of outdoor care

Caring for echeveria in the open ground is not much different from caring for a home flower. Water the plant with warm, clean water (in the absence of precipitation). It is important to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely, forming a dense crust. After each watering or rain, the soil is loosened a little.

Fertilizers are used the same as for indoor living. The first fertilizing is carried out 2 months after planting, then fertilizer is applied once a month. Outdoor echeveria is protected from pests by monthly treatment with Aktara or Fitoverm according to the instructions. The soil must be watered with insecticides after each rain.

Features of seasonal care

Echeveria goes through phases of active growth and dormancy throughout the year. Care may differ in different seasons.

Spring-summer period:

• temperature +22-27 degrees;
• bright lighting;
• watering after the soil dries 3 cm;
• feeding once a month.

Autumn-winter period:

• temperature 10-12 degrees;
• watering 2-3 times per season;
• lack of fertilizing;
• additional lighting.

Reproduction: step-by-step instructions

Echeveria has several propagation methods available. The most common are sheets and rosettes.

Using a sheet

1. The healthy bottom leaf is carefully separated from the plant and dried for 2-3 hours in the open air.
2. Ready-made or homemade soil for succulents is poured into the pot (recipes were above).
3. The leaf is pressed into the earth mixture. The soil is moistened with a sprayer.
4. Cover the container with film or glass and place it in a warm, bright place (+20…+25 degrees).
5. Every day the “greenhouse” is ventilated for 15-20 minutes, the soil is moistened as needed (when the top layer is completely dry).
6. After 14-21 days, babies hatch at the base of the leaf. They are planted in different pots after the leaf dries.

Using stem cuttings

1. The side stem is cut with a sharp knife moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. The cut is treated with charcoal, and the cutting is left to dry for 3-12 hours.
3. A mixture of 1 part turf soil and 1 part coarse sand is poured into a temporary pot. Drainage is poured at the bottom.
4. The cutting is pressed into the soil, which is slightly moistened.
5. The pot is placed in a bright, warm place (+22…+24 degrees) and watered regularly. The soil should always be slightly moist.
6. In a month the leaves will begin to grow. Young echeveria should be replanted after 2 months, but if it grows slowly, replanting can be done within a year.

Seeds

This method is used for growing rare species.

1. Prepare a container with peat soil (2 parts peat and 1 part sand).
2. The seeds are poured onto the soil moistened from the sprayer.
3. The container is covered with film or glass and placed in a bright place with a temperature of +20…+25 degrees.
4. Once a day, the seeds are ventilated for 30 minutes.
5. After 2-3 weeks, the first shoots appear. They can be transplanted into pots after forming a small rosette.

Rosettes

1. Using a sharp knife treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, cut off the root or apical rosette.
2. The lower leaves are removed.
3. The socket is dried for 2-3 hours.
4. Suitable soil and drainage are poured into the pot.
5. The rosette is placed in a container, sprinkled with soil and moistened with a spray bottle.
6. Place the pot in a warm place (+22…+25) and wait about a month for the rosette to take root. After this, the young echeveria can be placed in a permanent place.

How to propagate echeveria and how to properly root the plant when planting

There are three main options for how to propagate echeveria:

• Using seeds.
• Leaves.
• Rooting the tops.

The first option is the most difficult and takes the most time . The catch is that the grower pollinates the flowers himself, and then the seeds ripen on their own. The main thing is to collect them on time. To sow them, you need to choose the right soil, preferably acidic. The seeds are laid out on its surface and under no circumstances are they sprinkled with soil on top. When choosing a container for growing them, give preference to a transparent container with the same lid and a high-quality drainage system. Future plants should be placed in a place where the air temperature will be at least 25-30°C. To propagate an echeveria flower using seeds, you will also need sufficiently high air humidity.

Remember: this option for growing new echeveria specimens does not always give the desired results. Most of these experiments end in failure. But if successful, by correctly following all the recommendations and instructions, you can get a harvest of many sprouts.

The next method is to propagate an echeveria flower by leaf. This option is the main one. First you need to completely separate the leaf from the plant. To ensure that the new specimen does not begin to rot, the separated sheet must be dried in air.

Next, you should take care of preparing the substrate and thoroughly moisten it. A sheet is laid out on the surface. The main thing is that the top side is on the outside. Place the container with leaves in a room with an air temperature of at least 20 °C and scattered sunlight.

All these actions are the answer to how you can root echeveria. After all, a few weeks after the work done, you can observe that the leaf has taken root. After another month, a socket is already presented to the eye. After its appearance, the plant is ready to be transplanted into the main soil for further development. By the way, in the summer all these processes will take place at an accelerated pace, perhaps even more than one outlet will appear.

Propagation of the echeveria flower at home is often carried out using the rosette itself. It is considered a backup option, because not all types of plants can be propagated using leaves. First you need to separate the rosette from the main plant. At the same time, do not forget to lubricate the cut areas with charcoal. Afterwards, the separated part must be dried in air before the next step. This will take about 12 hours. The next step is to place the socket in the soil. You can use either sand or a prepared substrate.

The main thing is to moisturize it thoroughly. The advantages of such propagation and planting of echeveria are that the plant will be able to produce flowers faster and will develop more actively.

Thus, the main rule: it is better to propagate after flowering with lateral rosettes or leaf cuttings at a soil temperature of 20 ° C. Dry the cuttings and stick them into a sandy substrate.

Diseases and pests

Echeveria has a strong immune system and rarely gets sick, but sometimes it still suffers from bacterial and fungal diseases.

Bacterial diseases

Of the bacterial diseases, late blight and vascular bacteriosis are the most dangerous for stone roses.

Bacterial diseases

1. Late blight . The plant is affected by mycelial organisms, which first attack the leaves of the echeveria (brown spots appear), and then go down to the root system and deprive the flower of access to nutrients. The disease develops due to excessive watering, causing stagnation of moisture. Diseased leaves are cut off with a sharp knife and destroyed, the cut is sprinkled with charcoal. Echeveria must be replanted into new soil, after which it is treated with Fitosporin, following the instructions on the package.
2. Vascular bacteriosis . It develops due to low air temperatures and abundant watering. It manifests itself in the coloring of leaf vessels (they become brown, purple, gray). Gradually, the leaves wither and fall off, the growth of the flower slows down, and flowering does not occur. For vascular bacteriosis, fungicides are used in two stages, with a break of 2 weeks.

Fungal

Fungal diseases of echeveria occur due to improper care of the plant or as a result of infection from neighboring plants. Common ailments: powdery mildew, root rot and fusarium.

1. Powdery mildew . Occurs when there is a lack of fresh air and excessive watering. The leaves are covered with a white coating - mycelium. The color of the leaf blade changes to yellow, the leaf withers and falls off. The plant looks corroded. The diseased parts of the echeveria are removed, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with Fitosporin.
2. Root rot . Appears as a result of rotting of the root system from excess water. Black rot rises up the stem, the leaves become smaller, wither, curl and fall off. If the disease is detected at the initial stage, then the echeveria is taken out of the pot and the diseased roots are cut off. Charcoal is diluted in water and the flower is dipped into this solution for 10-15 minutes. Then they are dried and transplanted into a new container, simultaneously treated with fungicides. If the plant is severely affected, it is thrown away so that the disease does not spread to other flowers.
3. Fusarium (dry rot). The cause of fusarium is considered to be a lack of minerals and excessive watering. The stem of the echeveria darkens, the leaves turn pink and fall off. The pot with the diseased plant is quarantined and they wait for the crown to grow back. It is cut off and planted in the ground, and the rest of the plant is thrown away.

Pests

Below is a list of the most dangerous pests for stone flowers. They get onto echeveria either from other plants or through larvae in the soil. Therefore, before using soil (store-bought or homemade), pour boiling water over it or heat it for 10 minutes in the oven at 150-180 degrees.

Root-knot nematodes

The plant withers and slows down because the pest multiplies in thickenings on the root system. First of all, the echeveria is quarantined. Then the diseased roots are removed, and the remaining ones are soaked for 30 minutes in warm water (40-45 degrees). The soil is spilled with Aktara solution (1 g per 5 liters of water) or the flower is transplanted into new soil. The old pot is soaked in boiling water for a few minutes.

Root mealybug

The pest creates nests on the roots, cutting off the plant's access to nutrients, causing the plant to wither and slowly die. Echeveria is transplanted into new soil, having cleared the roots of the old soil, and watered with Aktara solution.

Aphid

Dark green or black moving dots on the underside of the leaves indicate that the plant is infested with aphids. The leaves are covered with tiny ulcers from bites, the poison from which clogs the leaf blade and prevents it from breathing. The leaves fall off and the plant withers. For treatment use “Aktara” or “Fitoverm”.

Spider mite

Small insects that first cover the base of the leaves with webs, and then the entire plant. Bite marks appear on the leaves, they turn yellow and become soft, falling off after some time. Until complete recovery, the plant is quarantined. It is treated with insecticides twice, every two weeks.

Mealybug

A thin waxy web forms on the leaves, the plant becomes covered with a sticky coating, whitish insects with an oval body are visible. The plant withers and drops its leaves. In case of severe damage, the flower is thrown out; if the infection has just begun, then treatment is carried out with “Karbofos” (6 g per 1 liter of water). A soap-alcohol solution will also work. Sometimes gardeners try to save the plant by separating parts, but this is only possible with full confidence that the pest has not spread to them.

IMPORTANT ! To prevent pests, echeveria is watered once a month with a solution of “Fitoverma”, “Aktellika” or “Aktary”.

Symptoms

1. Spots on echeveria leaves . Yellow spots indicate stagnant water in the soil or a fungal disease. Reduce watering and treat the plant with fungicides.
2. The plant is stretched out greatly and has become fragile . This indicates a lack of lighting. Move the pot to a sunny place or use a lamp for illumination.
3. The stem and leaves turn black . The reason is a violation of the temperature regime (too cold) or excess moisture. Keep the room temperature appropriate for the season and reduce watering. Pour water through the tray and remove excess.
4. Doesn't grow well . Firstly, echeveria by nature grows very slowly. Secondly, the plant does not have enough light. Make sure that the plant is in the light for 10-12 hours, and in spring and summer apply complex fertilizer for succulents monthly.
5. Root rot . The plant is affected by cold and stagnation of water at the roots and at the base of the rosette. Reduce the frequency of watering, water only from below, through the pan.

Possible problems

Often the poor condition of echeveria is caused by non-compliance with the watering regime or improper lighting.

What to do if you are stretched out?

Stretching of a flower indicates a lack of sunlight. The problem can easily be eliminated by moving the pot to a more illuminated place.

Why did you lower the leaves down?

Drooping leaves that have lost their original elasticity indicate dehydration of the soil. In this case, the substrate must be moistened by adding liquid complex fertilizer to the water, and then strictly adhere to the watering regime.

Also, the reason for drooping leaves may be low room temperature or stagnation of water in the root system.

The lower plates fall off and turn yellow

Yellowing and falling of leaves is associated with stagnation of water in the pot. To eliminate the problem, it is recommended to completely replace the soil.

The socket is rotting: how to save it?

If the socket rots, first of all you need to give it a chance to dry. In the future, it is recommended to transplant the plant into another soil, cutting off the damaged lower leaves and fragments of the root system.

Similar plants

Due to its external similarity, echeveria is often confused with another succulent plant - juveniles. Remember that echeveria is grown as a home ornamental plant and should not be left to overwinter in open ground. But the young ones are not afraid of frost and feel great outside. Echeveria grows in loamy soil with the addition of sand, and the young ones need soil with compost and humus.

Stone rose is an exotic flower that will become an unusual decoration for your windowsill. Echeveria does not require careful care and can do without attention for 2-3 weeks if it is watered first. At the same time, the plant has strong immunity, it rarely gets sick and gets along well with other neighbors.

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How to create a mix composition?

The process of creating a composition with echeveria includes several manipulations:

• Choose a suitable container.
• Lay out in successive layers:
  drainage expanded clay;
• soil diluted with vermiculite/perlite;
• moss.
• Arrange the succulent cuttings so that there is room for further growth.
• Lay out decorative elements: pebbles, shells, figurines, etc.
• Water without allowing water to get on the leaves of the plant.

When creating a mix composition, it is important to use succulents with similar habitat requirements.