About horizontal juniper: the best varieties, description, planting and care

Are you planning to build your own alpine slide or design a garden plot in an original way? Create comfortable conditions for juniper, which gives its owner not only a good mood, but also healing phytoncides that strengthen the nerves and help overcome the everyday anxiety of our hectic times.

Juniper, a fragrant, long-lived evergreen (500-2500 years) of the Cypress family, has recently become a decoration for personal plots, a striking element of landscape decor. There are more than 70 species of this unpretentious winter-hardy plant, which has a powerful root system, a height of up to 10 m and a growing area from northern latitudes to the tropics. Juniper leaves, depending on the type, are scaly or coniferous in shape, and their color is blue, gray, yellowish and all shades of green, which allows you to create picturesque, multi-level, multi-colored compositions on the site.

Here are some juniper species with a “fashionable” exterior:

Juniperus virginiana (pencil tree) is a slender, upright growing shrub/small tree 7-12 m tall and 4-6 m wide. In the first years the plant is compact and conical, then it becomes wide, asymmetrical and openwork. The branches are bent upward. The needles are scaly, needle-shaped in the shade, dark or gray-green, dark red in winter. It grows only in the sun, tolerates large temperature changes, is winter-hardy and wind-resistant. Suitable for topiary haircut.
Juniper horizontalis ( prostrate ) is a prostrate dwarf shrub 0.2-0.3 m high and 1.5-2 m wide with creeping shoots. The needles are scaly, the color ranges from green to metallic blue, becoming crimson or dark red in winter. Grows in sun and partial shade, tolerates large temperature changes, is winter-hardy and wind-resistant.
Medium juniper is a vertically growing, asymmetrical shrub 2-5 m high and 3-6 m wide. The branches form layers, the side shoots are often raised. The needles are scaly, the color ranges from dull gray to blue-green; in the shade or after pruning, the needles become needle-shaped. Grows quickly in sun and partial shade, tolerates large temperature changes, is wind-resistant, and winter-hardy. It tolerates simple and topiary haircuts well.
Hard juniper is a columnar tree native to Japan, up to 8 m tall, with hard, sharp, yellow-green needles. Very light-loving, undemanding to soil fertility. Males are especially beautiful as tapeworms.
Chinese juniper is a large shrub/tree. The branches have both scaly and needle-shaped needles of green, bluish or gray color, becoming needle-shaped in the shade or when heavily pruned. It grows only in the sun, even in light shade it thins out. Frost-resistant, takes root well, but does not tolerate dry air. In central Russia it replaces cypress trees.
Dahurian juniper is a creeping shrub with ascending branches. The needles are needle-shaped, sharp, scaly in good light, and become brownish after frost. Light-loving, tolerates light shading, drought-resistant. Suitable for slopes, slopes and rock gardens.

The varieties of juniper most commonly used for gardening and home decor are:

“anna maria”, “bruns”, “depressa aurea”, “horstmann”, “hibernica”, “Compressa”, “green carpet”, “old gold”, “gold star”, “mint julep”, “skyrocket”, “andorra compacta”, “blue star”, “blue arrow”, “blue chip”.

We will further tell you how to properly grow horizontal juniper.

Description of horizontal juniper

Horizontal juniper (Juníperus horizontális) is a dwarf, groundcover representative of the Juniper species. The maximum shoot height is 50 cm.

Widely spreading shoots together form a crown with a diameter of up to two meters. The plant is characterized by slow growth, the maximum annual growth is about 10 cm. It bears fruit with dark blue spherical cone berries. The fruit ripens one year after formation. The leaves have the appearance of sharp coniferous needles, up to 10 mm long. The needles of the bush have a bright green color with various shades. In the cold season, the needles acquire a brownish tint.

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Description

Juniperus horizontalis An evergreen low-growing shrub with needle-shaped green and bluish needles, 3-5 mm long. In autumn and winter, the needles often take on a brown tint.

Ripe cone berries are dark blue, almost black, spherical, 5-6 mm in diameter.

Spreading

Juniperus horizontala Homeland: North America.

Introduced into cultivation in 1840, it is currently widespread in botanical gardens and arboretums; it is rare among amateur gardeners, but deserves wider distribution.

Types of horizontal juniper

The most popular junipers with shoots:

creeping (shoots creep along the ground);
horizontal (shoots slightly raised above the ground and growing almost parallel to the ground) are more common.

"Andorra Variegata" is a creeping juniper with radially arranged, slightly raised, dense shoots and green needles with white-cream discoloration, height 0.4-0.5 m, width about 2 m.

"Blue Chip" is a shrub with blue-green needles, 0.2-0.3 m high and about 1.5 m wide.

“Blue Carpet” is a scaly plant with blue-green needles and horizontal, dense pile, h 0.4-0.6 m, width 2-2.5 m.

"Blue Pacific" is a species of coastal juniper, with a low, wide stance and stinging, blue needles, about 0.4 m high, and about 1 m wide.

“Depressa Aurea” is an ordinary juniper with yellow needles and slightly raised, dense, horizontal pile, reaching 0.3-0.4 m upward and 1.5-2 m wide.

“Golden carpet” is a creeping type of juniper with terrestrial, slightly raised shoots at the ends and yellow-green needles, grows 0.1-0.2 m, reaches 1.5-2 m in width.

“Green carpet” is an ordinary juniper with cushion-shaped vegetation and green needles, 0.1 m high, about 1.5 m wide.

“Glacier” is a type of creeping shrub with blue needles, reaching up to 10 cm, about 1 m in width.

"Glauka" - Sabina or Cossack juniper. With dense, wide, horizontal pile and blue-green needles, about 0.5 m high, 1.5-2 m wide.

“Lime glow” is a creeping coniferous species with dense, wide vegetation and green-yellow needles, reaches 0.3–0.4 m upward, 0.8–1.2 m in girth, creates a hollow in the central part.

"Mother Lode" is a type of creeping juniper with a flat constitution and yellow-golden needles measuring 10 cm by 1 m.

“Nana” is a conifer with dense bushes and creeping shoots, short, green needles, approximate dimensions 0.3 m by 1-1.5 m.

"Prince of Wales" is a creeping juniper with a dense covering and green needles, about 0.1 cm high and 1–1.5 m wide.

"Repanda" - common juniper, green needles, slightly raised branches, height 0.2-0.4 m, width 2.5-3 m.

“Schlager” Schlager is a variety of coastal juniper with horizontal needles and burning, green needles, about 0.4 m high and 1.5-2 m wide.
"Wiltonii" - creeping heather with dense pile, sagging shoots with slightly raised tips and blue-green needles, height 0.1-0.2 m, width 2-2.5 m.
"Variegata" is a creeping juniper with flat pile, thin shoots and green-blue needles with cream discolorations, grows 0.3-0.4 m upward, 1.5-2 m wide.

Daurian juniper (Juniperus davurica)

It grows naturally in the Far East, Eastern Siberia, northern Mongolia and China. A slow-growing creeping shrub with ascending branches, up to 0.5–1 m high. The needles are needle-shaped, scaly at the ends of the shoots, bright green in summer, turning brown in winter.

Round cones with a diameter of 5–6 mm, dark blue with a bluish bloom. Winter hardiness is high. Rare in culture.

Juniperus daurica Leningrad

The most famous variety of Daurian juniper. The needles are green, olive-brown in winter.

How to plant horizontal juniper?

For anyone, even a novice gardener, there should be no problems with planting coniferous shrubs. With consistent and careful work, the juniper seedling is quickly accepted and grows well. All that is required is to follow the sequence of actions and simple planting rules.

Where to plant horizontal juniper?

The characteristics of plants play an important role when planning a site. Juniper can become a spectacular element in the garden; planting thorny bushes is a great way to highlight paths and alleys, strengthen slopes and embankments. Any type of conifer can be placed near the home, provided there are no drafts and north winds in sunny places at the planting site. With a lack of light, garden horizontal juniper becomes faded, and its crown loses its elasticity. Good neighbors for him can be:

tall evergreens - pines, fir, spruce, larches and their dwarf species;
bulbous crops - daffodils, tulips, hyacinths.

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On the way to a low-maintenance landscape garden.

Fashion always follows the times. And now the time is such that Russians, in addition to the dacha, have another love - a car. And not everyone can court two sweethearts at once. Such Masha and Vanya will roll up to their “Novoogaryovo” in a used Land Cruiser. And “the horse wasn’t lying there.” There's no time for rest here. Vanya takes out a lawn mower, and a crash starts throughout the entire area, from which I can’t save anyone. And who might like this!? Even the birds, which out of thoughtlessness had built nests nearby, abandon their clutches because of such a choral prelude. And they can be understood. And the garden after all this artillery bombardment does not at all look like Versailles.

This is bad news. But I have a good one for you. It is for this case that we have a timeless wisdom - “the need for invention is cunning.” - What am I offering? — Bring the coniferous world to help you. For those who have not yet plunged into it, I advise you to remember only four names: Thuja, Spruce, Pine and Juniper. These four, with their numerous varieties, are already quite enough for your garden to acquire the two most valuable qualities from the point of view of a summer resident: natural landscape and low maintenance.

It is no coincidence that the fashion for conifers has spread throughout Europe. Conifers are not the latest craze, and not a temporary whim, but a stable trend in the northern decorative garden. Rationally thinking Europeans have long appreciated the double benefits of their use. Anyone who has tasted country life and lives in two houses wants to have a garden for all seasons, and not for three summer months. Such a garden can no longer be built from herbaceous plants, and deciduous shrubs and trees cannot save it. Only conifers can make your country garden all-season. Therefore, conifers are forever!

Juniper horizontalis is one of those that you can safely invite into your garden, and you will not be disappointed. It has unique adaptability. In Russia, it can be grown anywhere where the word “garden” has at least some practical meaning.

Planting juniper seedlings

Planting of horizontal juniper is carried out from April to the second ten days of May (if autumn is dry, then in late August - early September) and includes a number of simple rules:

The depth of the planting hole should be twice the height of the seedling and be at least 70-80 cm, and its width should be 2.5 times larger than the root ball of the seedling. A 10 cm drainage layer of crushed stone, gravel or large expanded clay PETER PEAT line VITA is placed at the bottom of the pit. Then there is a sand layer 20 cm thick, and from above to ground level there is a soil mixture of turf soil, sand and PETER PEAT “Garden Soil” soil from the HOBBY line (1: 1: 2). If the soil on your site is heavy, liming it with dolomite flour at the rate of 500-600 g/sq.m.
Before planting, to prevent diseases, immerse the root part of the seedling for 2 hours in a 3% aqueous solution of potassium permanganate.
When the planting hole is half filled with the required “ingredients”, pour a bucket of water into it; After planting a seedling/adult plant, water it with two more, this will protect you from the risk of underwatering and drying out of the roots.
Plant the plant together with a lump of earth, after thoroughly spilling the pot with water. Try not to damage the roots and root ball of soil. When planting, the root collar of young seedlings is level with the ground, for young seedlings - 2-3 cm, and for adult junipers - 10 cm above ground level.
Between neighboring young junipers there should be a distance of 0.6-1 m, between large ones - 1.5-2.5 m. It is necessary to calculate so that the distance between already adult individuals is 1.5-4 m, taking into account the overgrown crowns.
Mulch your plantings with a 5-8 cm layer of sawdust, dead leaves, pine bark PETER PEAT line DECO or special artificial material.

Planting and care.

Horizontal is one of the most unpretentious types of juniper. In central Russia, it is absolutely invulnerable to any frost, and is not susceptible to such coniferous scourge as sunburn. In fact, it works well throughout Russia, at least everywhere where the word “garden” has at least some practical meaning. Despite the creeping nature of growth, the horizontal one has a tap root, thanks to which it overcomes any drought. Like all junipers, it is undemanding to soil fertility. At the same time, it is relatively resistant to urban gas pollution.

But unpretentiousness does not mean that the horizontal can be treated according to the “stick it and forget it” formula. Even our birches and fir trees in a dense shady tree stand, combined with thin soil, fall out en masse. Dense carpets with the typical coloring of pine needles; horizontal carpets are formed only in sunny places with fairly fertile, loose and moderately moist soil. He prefers light but fertile soil. Ideally, this is a humus-rich sandy loam substrate with pH = 5-6.5. Groundwater should not come closer than 2.0-2.5 m. Good drainage is also important, so the best subsoil for horizontal soil is sand and sandy loam.

Landing place. The soil. Horizontal should not be planted in strong shade or near large trees. Soil preparation should be taken seriously, because the plant will have to grow in one place for many years. By the way, it is worth noting that in favorable conditions the longevity of horizontal juniper reaches 300 years! The soil substrate can be prepared on the basis of turf soil, humus and sand - 1: 1: 3; or leaf soil, peat, sand - 1:1:2. The minimum fertile layer is 15cm.

Fertilizer. Watering. For obvious reasons, the main fertilizer for horizontal soil should be applied during initial soil preparation. But since it has not been growing in one place for a year or two, it cannot do without additional nutrition. Fertilizer application is possible only by surface addition. Various types of bulk organic matter are suitable as fertilizers: peat, composts, humus... It is advisable to apply all this in small doses, and directly to the needles. If you do this carefully enough, no damage will be caused to the appearance of the plants. The first good rain will wash the fertilizer down beyond visibility. By the way, you can lift the coniferous vines and then the fertilizer comes closer to the roots.

Horizontal juniper tolerates short breaks in natural precipitation without consequences. But prolonged drought, especially against the backdrop of heat, is harmful to it, like any normal plant. Growth stops, the needles lose turgor and freshness of color. In the summer heat, it is advisable to water conifers after sunset using the sprinkling method. Then both the soil and the crown are evenly wetted. It is useful to water in small portions, but more often.

Replanting juniper

This is an extremely undesirable and painful procedure for the juniper, so it is better not to make mistakes with the place of its initial planting. But once you have decided, take care of landscaping the “correct hole” (see Planting) and creating comfortable soil by mixing coniferous soil, peat, sand in equal parts with snitroammophos (30-40 g/sq.m). Fill the half-filled hole with a bucket of water and pour it again with 2 more buckets after the juniper has finally settled in the new place. 2 days after transplantation, feed the plant with liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living Force: Stress Resistance”.

How to choose juniper seedlings when purchasing?

Juniper seedlings

Junipers are not a species that can easily be transplanted. The larger and older the seedling, the more difficult it is for it to take root in a new place. Seedlings no older than 3–4 years old with a closed root system and rooted in the substrate take root better. You should not buy specimens with bare roots - the chances that they will survive are minimal.

To make a purchase, you should go to a large garden center with a proven reputation. The optimal time for purchase is early spring or cool autumn (September-October). dwarf and two-color hybrid varieties and plant them in the spring.

When choosing, you need to make sure that the color of the needles and the general habit of the seedling fully correspond to the declared variety or hybrid. You should not choose specimens with brown needles, partially bare branches, dried out tops, without young growth, or affected by pests and diseases. When inspecting the seedling, you can look under the bottom of the container - if large pieces of roots come out through the holes, it is better to refuse the purchase.

If you plan to plant large trees, it is better to entrust this task to garden center specialists, provided they provide guarantees of plant survival. You should not take risks and plant adult junipers yourself.

What is juniper

Horizontal juniper belongs to the evergreen coniferous bushes and, as the name implies, is distinguished by its growth in width. Such a plant is called creeping. In height, depending on the variety, it can grow from 10 to 45-50 cm. The crown circumference (or, in other words, the spread of the bush) can be 1-2.5 m.

The bush grows very slowly. Its branches are very elongated. Sometimes they are covered with young growth (bright young shoots) or needles (with a maximum length of 5 cm), scales (2.5 cm in length).

Juniper horizontal

The color of the plant depends on the variety, but generally the juniper bush has a green or blue-green hue. There are bushes of silver and yellow color. As autumn approaches, the plant often changes its color to brown or dark purple.

The fruit of the bush is a cone berry that ripens within 2 years. As a rule, it has a darker shade.

Plant care

Junipers, which are undemanding to growing conditions, still require low-labor care, which includes occasional heavy watering, fertilizing, pruning, shelter for the winter, and protection from diseases and pests.

Watering

Growing juniper in pots

Young plants and dwarf forms with a small root system have a greater need for moisture. In rainy weather, watering is not carried out, but in dry weather, it is watered twice in the first month after planting, and then once every 20–30 days. Junipers love washing the crowns with sprinkling - this refreshes the needles, washes away dust, allows them to emit a wonderful smell, and release useful phytoncides. It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening or early in the morning, otherwise drops of water warmed by the scorching sun can cause burns.

Mature, developed shrubs and trees are watered three times a season; with sufficient moisture, they develop better, the needles become brighter and more saturated. Depending on the size of the plant, 10–30 liters of water are poured under the root. At the same time, most species tolerate long dry periods well and, in general, it is better to “underwater” junipers than to “overwater”.

The use of mulch, under which you can lay special permeable materials, for example, lutrasil, will help reduce the frequency of watering and maintain soil moisture. This technique will help protect young junipers from drying out and weeds.

Feeding

Under natural conditions, junipers grow on poor rocky, sandy loam, and less often clayey soils. Species plants are undemanding in terms of soil nutrition (exceptions are Chinese and scaly junipers ). At the same time, modern varieties and hybrids are more whimsical and it is advisable to fully fill the planting holes, as indicated above.

In this case, the first two years the nutritional value of the substrate will be sufficient for the development of seedlings, and starting from the third year, complex fertilizer is applied every spring to replenish nutrients, enhance growth and strengthen the plant. Liquid fertilizer for conifers Stimovit, containing both organic and mineral substances, is successfully used. For root feeding, 100 ml of solution is diluted in 4 liters of water and watered onto moist soil around the perimeter of the crown.

Even if the soil is sufficiently saturated with organic matter and fertile, it is necessary to regularly add minerals to the soil. Universal brands of granular fertilizers for conifers AVA and Royal Mix have proven themselves well, containing a full range of macro- and microelements, including magnesium and iron, which is important for the prevention of chlorosis and other non-contagious diseases.

Trimming

One of the options for pruning juniper

Junipers, unlike firs, respond well to pruning. And although many varieties easily maintain an ideal shape, for example, the wonderful Canadian Sentinel, with its pressed branches and even crown, others may exhibit deviations from the norm.

Pruning is used to control branches that grow at an unexpected angle, shoots that do not match the color of the variety, as well as shoots that are too powerful and spoil the overall impression. In addition, in plants grafted onto a trunk, a predominant growth of the crown on one side may be observed; such one-sidedness looks unsightly and can lead to breakage of the scion.

Uneven growth of the crown most often looks untidy and must be regulated in creeping or rounded forms , while varieties with natural “dishevelment” do not need correction.

Pruning is carried out using pruning shears; young growths are pinched with fingers to a third or half the length, depending on the purpose of pruning. An out-of-place powerful shoot or an incorrectly colored branch is removed completely at the fork, which will make the cut invisible.

The optimal time for pruning is the end of June , at which time the growths have already fully advanced, and the shoots remaining after pruning will have time to recover and go into the winter stronger.

Formative pruning is also used when caring for hedges, as well as to give shrubs geometric shapes, but this requires special skills, knowledge of growth characteristics and a creative approach.

Pest and disease control

Strong junipers are less often affected by diseases and pests than other conifers, but they are still damaged by insects, and a fungal infection can cause severe damage. Young weak seedlings or old weakened plants are most susceptible to pests and diseases.

Pests

Various caterpillars eat the needles and damage young growths, of which the most common is the pine moth , as well as the juniper moth . Outwardly similar to the pubescent white aphid, small Hermes settles on a variety of conifers; adult insects and larvae suck out the juice and damage the needles.

Adult juniper and pine sawflies , as well as their caterpillars, destroy the tender needles on young shoots, after which their surface resembles a burnt one. Small larvae of juniper mealybugs , settling on young branches, also gnaw the needles, they fall off, and the damaged branches become infected with sooty fungus.

To prevent pest attacks in May, plants are treated with Actellik, Enzhio or Decis, repeating the treatment if necessary throughout the season, but at least twice every 7-10 days. It is better to alternate medications.

Round holes in the bark, under which there are winding passages, are made by the larvae of various pests, for example, bark beetles or gold borers . If such damage is observed, the plant is treated with one of the insecticides, and undiluted Actellik is instilled into the holes.

Fungal diseases

Young and weakened plants with a lack of space and light, high soil and air humidity suffer from fungal diseases.

Fusarium is characterized by redness and browning of the needles; the spread of infection begins from the upper branches, which gradually become bare and dry out. Alternaria infection appears as a black velvety coating on browned needles.

If there are symptoms of these fungal infections, the withered branches are removed, the above-ground part is treated and one of the fungicides is added to the root - Fitosporin M, Fundazol, HOM, Maxim. In unfavorable weather conditions, for preventive purposes, the same treatment is carried out in April-May.

The most dangerous rust is visible on the branches in the form of multiple orange pustules; at a late stage of the disease, the bark is affected, which thickens and bursts. Branches infected with rust are cut and burned, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with fungicides.

Biatorella canker damage manifests itself in the form of necrosis of the bark and deep ulcers, followed by drying out of the branches. The affected parts are cut down to healthy wood and burned; the sections and the entire plant are treated with a solution of copper oxychloride. To prevent infection during regular pruning, use a clean tool, and fresh sections are treated with a solution of copper sulfate.

To prevent and treat spring burns, use the drug Ecoberin, dissolving granules in water and spraying the needles at least 3-4 times.

Preparing for winter

Junipers are resistant to temperature fluctuations and cold, but do not tolerate frosty, windy, little snowy winters with low air humidity, which leads to drying out of the soil and loss of moisture in the needles. In such cases, it is advisable to pour more snow near the root system and crown, increasing the humidity and protecting the soil at the roots from weathering. In winter, young shrubs with a small crown

Varieties with a spreading, fragile crown can be damaged in the event of heavy snowfalls and the branches are tied in winter. Tying with covering materials, in particular burlap, is a common method of covering, but it must be used with caution, since in mild winters this can lead to overheating, falling of needles, and an outbreak of fungal diseases.

Popular varieties

Experts identify more than 100 decorative varieties of horizontal juniper. Below is a comparative description of the most popular of these.

Juniper Golden Carpet

The variety was bred back in 1992. This variety is especially popular among gardeners, although it grows slowly compared to other varieties. The maximum plant growth is 30 cm in height. As for the branches, they can grow up to 1-1.5 m. This is a fairly flat bush. The needles have the shape of green needles closer to the base and yellow at the end. Sensing the approach of frost, the plant changes the color of its needles to dark brown.

Juniper Ice Blue

This recumbent bush is the pride of an American selection created in 1967. The height of this plant very rarely exceeds 15 cm. The diameter of the bush is 2 m on average. The crown is dense, making the entire bush look long and dense. The needles of this variety have the appearance of scales. In summer it is green-blue, in winter it is lilac-blue. Growing densely across the ground, the bush creates a natural green mat. The fruit of the bush is a small blue cone-berry, up to 7 cm in size.

Juniper Nana

The variety was bred by specialists from the USA back in 1922. This is a low bush that can rise in height by a maximum of 0.2-0.3 m. But it grows well in width - up to 1.5 m. In one year, Nana spreads by about 15 cm. The shoots of the plant are short, but quite hard. At the end they are slightly raised up, very tightly located to each other. This makes it possible to very successfully combine the plant with stone compositions. Juniper needles are needle-shaped. It has a bluish-gray color.

Juniper Andorra Variegata

Evergreen and very compact plant. In height, just like Andorra Compact, it can grow up to 0.4 m, in width - up to 1.5 m. The bush has a flat, round, cushion-shaped shape. A special feature of the plant is cream-colored spots on dark green branches. The bark of the plant is smooth and tender when young, but over time it begins to darken and crack. It grows slowly: 10 cm in height and width per year.

Juniper Andorra Variegata

Juniper Blue Forest

A very special variety is the Blue Forest groundcover juniper. Compared to many other plants of its species, it is quite tall: it can grow up to 40 cm in height. As a rule, the bushes of the variety are not wide - up to 0.5 m. The main branches are short, but flexible. They are covered with small needles-scales. The silver-blue color of the plant contributes to its attractiveness and allows you to create special design compositions.

Selection of seedlings

It is best to purchase a seedling from a nursery, where you can choose the variety and specimen you like, and also get advice on caring for juniper and its neighbors. When buying a juniper, pay attention that its root system is developed and occupies the entire volume of the planting container (it is advisable that the seedling is in a solid “dishes” and not in bags, where the root system is easily damaged). Ask the seller to remove the plant from the pot and show you its roots - they should be white, fresh and smell good. The needles of a healthy candidate for planting are lush, without yellowness, rich green in color, the branches are not dry, and the optimal age is 3-4 years.

Place

Juniper is a light-loving plant that loves space, so it is advisable that its crown be in the sun most of the day, otherwise the plant will lose its lushness. Loose, breathing soil for juniper (pH = 4.5-7) can be “constructed” yourself by mixing peat, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. Or you can not bother and buy ready-made soil PETER PEAT “Garden Soil” from the HOBBY line, which will reduce the number of weeds and the percentage of possible plant diseases.

Choose places to plant junipers with low groundwater levels to avoid root rot.

Why does juniper dry out and turn yellow?

There can be many reasons for drying out or yellowing of needles. Despite the fact that juniper is a light-loving plant, the bright sun in February and March leads to the drying out of the needles on the south side. This is due to the fact that the frozen ground does not allow the roots to saturate the needles with water and the bright sun dries them out. Covering the bushes with special material will help to avoid this.

The most common cause of yellow needles is fungal infection such as:

Cytospora pini,
Diplodia juniperi,
Hendersonia notha,
Phoma juniperi,
Phomopsis juniperovora,
Rhabdospora sabinae,
Pythium cupressina

Infection can be prevented by purchasing seedlings from trusted suppliers, loose, breathable soil, moderate watering and sparse planting.

Prevention will help preserve the plantings. To do this, in spring (April) and autumn (October) it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment with drugs such as Ridomil Gold MC, Skor and Tilt.

Junipers are beautiful evergreens that come in a variety of shapes and can fit into any garden. They look good in pure coniferous plantings or mixed with bushes that contrast in color, such as barberry. They are easy to trim, allowing you to give them any shape, and also use them as a green hedge. It is worth noting its endurance, undemandingness to soils and the ability to thrive in containers.

Juniper horizontal - care

Unpretentious conifers rarely require increased attention. They need such standard measures as regular watering, timely feeding and pruning. Some species, such as juniper horizontal Andorra compact, can secrete poisonous juices, and it is necessary to wear gloves when cutting the branches of such plants. In the spring months, it is recommended to cover low-growing shrubs from sunlight with burlap. By following simple rules, you can count on a well-groomed green lawn.

Fertilizer for horizontal juniper

Coniferous low-growing garden plants do not need frequent feeding. Organic fertilizers - bird droppings, manure are not suitable for such plants, they can damage the delicate roots of the bush. It is permissible to add a little peat or pine nut shells to the planting hole. Experts recommend spring feeding of juniper with nitroammophoska, adding 40-50 g of it per square meter. A good alternative is a special fertilizer for conifers:

"Needle";
"Fertika-lux";
"Aquarin".

How to trim horizontal juniper?

Coniferous plants must be pruned carefully. Regular shortening of branches and removal of dry and damaged areas should be carried out with a sharply sharpened tool. If you want to change the direction of shoot growth, they resort to pruning; the best time for this is the spring months, when the air temperature does not exceed +4°. To decorate the site, designers use the formation of horizontal juniper in a trunk. These plants are given a spherical shape using garden shears. Standard trees create a unique landscape on any site.

Diseases of juniper horizontalis

In order for horizontal coniferous shrubs to retain their appearance for as long as possible, it is necessary to protect them from diseases and pests. Any attentive owner can notice insects that damage a favorite plant; in this case, it is important to immediately provide first aid to the juniper and rid it of dangerous neighbors, otherwise you may lose the bush. Diseases and pests that can harm an evergreen plant:

Fusarium is caused by fungi living in the soil. Signs of the disease are wilting of the upper part of the shoots, yellowing and falling of the needles. Affected plants must be removed with their rhizomes; it is difficult to save them. For prevention, you can use Baktofit and Vitarox products when planting.
The moth is one of the most dangerous pests of juniper. This purple-winged butterfly emerges from caterpillars feeding on pine needles. Spraying with Fufanon and Actellik helps to effectively combat harmful insects.
The scale insect is a small brown insect that eats the needles of the plant and its fruits. If the plant is severely damaged, the juniper needles fall off and the plant dries out. The drug "Decis Profi" and other insecticides can help fight the pest.

Pests and diseases

Juniper horizontalis Wiltonii is resistant to diseases and pests. Incorrect agricultural practices, for example, overgrown plantings, too frequent and abundant watering, stagnation of water near the roots, can cause the development of a fungal infection. Cut out the damaged parts of the bush and burn them. Then treat with copper sulfate solution.

The main pests of climbing shrubs are aphids and spider mites. The method is simple: spraying with any suitable insecticide or folk remedies. For example, soap or caustic pepper spray.

With proper care, Wilton's juniper is very rarely susceptible to disease.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

Although horizontal juniper is a relatively unpretentious crop, not all its varieties have the same needs. Therefore, it is advisable to compare planting and care conditions for several varieties.

Golden carpet juniper loves sunny places most of all. If it is planted in the shade, then it loses its golden color and becomes darker. The soil should be alkaline or slightly acidic for it. It can withstand fairly severe frosts and dry soil, but is sensitive to dry air. The optimal planting pattern is 0.5-2 m between individual bushes. When planting plants, you need to take into account its size and age. The planting hole for adult bushes can reach 70 cm in depth. When planting, the root collar should not be buried in the ground.

Planting pit

Caring for the plant involves abundant watering during the first week after planting, systematic watering during the dry period, shallow loosening (especially when the plant is still young), and annual fertilizer (for example, nitroammophos or all-purpose products).

The planting of Ice Blue juniper is not significantly different. The bush is unpretentious to the soil, but grows better in acidic and alkaline areas. The bush loves sandy and loamy areas. Just like Golden Carpet, Ice Blue should have enough light, however, unlike the previous option, it can grow well in partial shade. Full shade harms the plant - it loses its attractive appearance and becomes dull. The owner needs to ensure that there are no weeds within a diameter of 40-90 cm from the trunk. Depending on the season and soil moisture, the plant needs to be watered 1 to 3 times a week. The optimal proportion of water is 10-30 liters per adult bush. In spring, the plant needs fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, in winter – with potassium fertilizers, and in summer – with phosphorus fertilizers.

Juniper procumbens Nana grows best in sandy, light areas. Slight partial shade is allowed, but full shade is harmful to the plant. Soils with a slightly acidic and neutral reaction are most suitable for the plant. The optimal distance between Nana bushes should be from 0.5 to 2 m, depending on the age and size of the plant.

The bush needs to be replenished during the dry period; 1-2 times a year it can be fed with universal means. Bushes cannot withstand stagnant water and excessive fertilization.

Juniper prostrate variegata grows well in well-drained, vitamin-enriched sandy loam and acidic soils. If possible, it is better to plant the plant in a sunny place. Partial shade is also possible, but not the best option. Planted in the same way as Golder Karpen. The plant needs frequent but moderate watering. From time to time (especially for young plants) loosening should be carried out.

Forest Blue grows well in moderately dry areas. It is best suited to alkaline or acidic soils. Like many other varieties of juniper, an adult bush should be planted to a depth of 70 cm. Given the elongated shape of the plant, bushes can be placed at a distance of 0.5-1 m from each other. The plant should be watered taking into account the soil moisture. For this variety, sanitary pruning is recommended two to three times a year.

Watering juniper

What you need to know about growing ↑

The plant is not picky about soil and can grow well, for example, on rocky slopes.
Dry air is very bad for the plant, so for areas with hot summers it should be planted in shade or partial shade.
In the first years of life, the conifer grows very slowly, only 0.5 cm per year. But gradually, by the age of 10, the main shoots grow up to 20 cm annually.
It is resistant to winter low temperatures, but it is advisable to make a shelter that protects it from the weight of the snow cover so that the branches do not break.

It is best to replant in early spring, always with a clod of earth.
Propagated mainly by cuttings. Planting and growing seeds is a very long process.
Varieties with golden hues of needles must be placed in well-lit areas of the garden, because in the shade the needles lose their original color and will be a normal green color.
To prevent the branches in the center of the bush from being exposed, it is useful to trim the bush periodically.

Juniper horizontal in landscape design

The variety of juniper varieties allows this plant to be widely used for decorating alpine hills, hedges, flower beds and borders. Low-growing juniper is not very suitable for areas designed in the style of a tropical garden. But in rocky areas that support the Japanese style with classical elements, the low conifer looks very harmonious. Adding bright elements in the form of large stones, waterfalls, rocky islands next to spreading juniper will only emphasize its advantages.

What can be planted nearby?

Horizontal juniper grows best next to bulbous, heather and other conifers. It coexists perfectly with thujas, other varieties of its “brothers”, irises, lupins, tulips, begonias, hydrangeas, lavender, and heather. Shrubs for planting near this plant: barberry, sea buckthorn, dogwood. You can also plant any non-fruit trees. It is permissible to plant: lilies, daffodils, all types of moss.

Also learn how to use juniper as a hedge.

More information about horizontal juniper

This article does not contain all the features of cultivation and planting, and the characteristics of varieties. Therefore, if you are interested in pruning horizontal juniper, the correct creation of greenhouse conditions at an early stage of growth in winter, replanting, propagation and other nuances, then it is better to study the variety you have chosen separately.

Horizontal juniper in landscape design, given a particular garden style chosen, can be planted, pruned and grown differently in different types of shade. It is recommended to become more familiar with each individual variety, its characteristics and care recommendations.

We also recommend looking at photos of horizontal juniper in landscape design in advance in order to visually evaluate the benefits of each variety and the appropriateness of planting it in your garden. You can also appreciate the relevance and aesthetics of their combination with vertical varieties of junipers . Moreover, it is advisable to look at the plants at their maximum growth so that the results meet your expectations. In any case, this wonderful fragrant plant, unpretentious and not too demanding on the soil, will serve as a good addition or become a highlight in the overall garden design.

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Design with junipers

Junipers are quite widely used in landscape design: soft (in most species) needles of various colors, delicate aroma, undemanding to growing conditions - these are the reasons why most gardeners and designers are very fond of them.

Junipers are planted in alleys, grown on alpine hills and in rockeries. At any time of the year they are good in garden compositions with other conifers: spruce, pine, thuja, fir and hemlock. In spring and summer, their green, blue or, conversely, yellow color emphasizes and sets off the beauty of rhododendrons and hydrangeas, mahonias and heathers and numerous bulbous plants: tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, etc.

Juniper propagation

Seeds. Not all juniper varieties can be grown from seeds - hybrid varieties (labeled f1) do not produce offspring in this way. Natural pollination of the plant provides too little planting material, and it can be collected from two-year-old and older junipers strictly during the darkening of the berries, but not later. Next, stratify the collected seeds: put a layer of peat, sand and moss in a box 20x30x30 cm; place a thin layer of juniper seeds on it; on top is a layer similar to the first. The box should stay outside all winter and the first half of spring. This will speed up seed germination, because... seeds that have not undergone this procedure will be able to sprout only after a year. In May, soak juniper seeds for 30 minutes in a 3% solution of potassium permanganate, then 2 hours in liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living Power: for soaking seeds” and plant in prepared beds (see Planting section) according to a 50x80 cm pattern, followed by watering, weeding, loosening row spacing.

Cuttings with a “heel”. In early spring, early in the morning in cloudy weather, cut branches 12 cm long from an adult juniper so that they have “heels” - 2-3 cm pieces of the trunk. Remove the needles from them and place them for a day in a solution of liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living Force: for soaking seeds”, which stimulates root formation. Next, immerse the juniper cuttings 3 cm into pots with a diameter of 15 cm with a substrate of sand, garden soil and peat (1: 1: 1), water and cover with film. Rooting temperature +22-28°C, humidity of the upper part of the cuttings 90%. Place the pots on the windowsill, towards the light. Remember, the soil should always be moist, but overwatering can cause root rot. Every 5 hours, remove the film to allow the cuttings to breathe and check the moisture content of the substrate. After 30-50 days, the plantings will have roots; after another 2 months they can be transplanted into pots, and in a permanent place - after 2-3 years.

In a greenhouse. Prepare a hole 25 cm deep in the garden bed, lay drainage made of expanded clay or small crushed stone 5 cm thick on the bottom, and on top - a soil mixture of sand and peat (1:1). Install arcs 25-30 cm high above the resulting bed and cover them with thick film. Sprinkle the soil mixture thoroughly with water and bury the cuttings 3 cm into it in increments of 40-50 cm. Do not forget to ventilate every 5 hours, and in sunny weather, remove the film.

Reproduction of Juniperus horizontalis

Juniper horizontal or prostrate propagates by seed or cuttings. The seed method is used extremely rarely; there is a high probability of loss of varietal characteristics of the plant.

Semi-lignified branches are chosen for cuttings. Harvesting is carried out in mid-spring. A cutting from an adult shrub, about ten centimeters long, must have a “heel”. The part of the branch buried in the soil is freed from needles and treated with an agent that stimulates the growth of the rhizome. The seedling immersed in moist soil is covered with a protective cap.

Planting is done in a mixture of sand and peat mixed in equal proportions. The planting is regularly moistened to prevent excessive drying out. A seedling with a developed root system can be moved to open ground in mid-summer. In the first years after planting, the bushes need to be additionally covered in winter. Mature plants have sufficient strength and do not require additional protection.

Feeding juniper

In April, feed your juniper with mineral fertilizer PETER PEAT “NPK 15-15-15” from the MINERAL line. In the future, water it monthly with liquid humic fertilizer PETER PEAT “Living force: for coniferous crops”, combining the fertilizer with watering and first lightly loosening the tree trunk circle. But if the plant is already growing well, fertilize it every other month. Alternative fertilizers:

nitroammophoska (30 – 40 g per 1 m²);
“Kemira Universal” (20 g per 10 liters of water).

Reproduction methods

Creeping juniper Wiltoni can be propagated in several ways:

collected or purchased seeds;
cuttings.
Cuttings;

The least labor-intensive and most reliable method is propagation by cuttings. The best time for the procedure is early spring. Young shoots 1-2 years old should be cut and placed vertically in the prepared soil mixture, under plastic film or glass. Temperature regime - 25-27 degrees Celsius, mandatory watering and spraying of seedlings. At the end of spring, seedlings can be planted in the ground, covering them with film for the first time.

Important: For better rooting of Wilton juniper cuttings and graftings, it is recommended to treat it with a “rooting agent”.

Decorative juniper carpet ↑

Horizontal juniper is remarkable in that you can choose the color of the needles among a fairly large variety. Varieties with white and cream tassels interspersed look interesting, which open up new perspectives in coloring areas!

Among the varieties of this species there are also dwarf shrubs with a dense cushion-shaped crown, which are especially loved by gardeners for their ground cover properties. The low shrub grows to the sides, hiding soil voids and forming a decorative coniferous carpet.

It is especially beautiful in the spring months, when the needles have a bluish or steely tint.

If we talk about the neighborhood, then this species looks impressive against the background of the lighter green color of the common juniper.

The shrub has tenacious, powerful roots and is perfect for decorating and strengthening slopes.

And, of course, it would be a sin not to use it in rocky gardens, rock gardens, and alpine slides. By the way, this particular type of juniper is used to create so-called “juniper lawns.”

Medicinal properties

Only common juniper is used in medicine. Not only decoctions, but also just walks in juniper groves have a positive effect on the human body due to the plant’s ability to secrete phytoncides.

Essential oils contain beneficial substances such as:

terpenes
camphene,
terpeniol,
kadinen,
pinene,
borneol.

The needles contain tannins, vitamins, resins, waxes and organic acids.

The proven antimicrobial effect of essential oil helps in the treatment of many diseases. Due to its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and analgesic properties, it is used in the treatment of radiculitis, polyarthritis, neuralgia and rheumatism. Juniper has an expectorant effect, combined with an antibacterial effect, making it indispensable during the treatment of flu and colds. Capable of restoring the immune system, increasing hemoglobin, restoring the functioning of the thyroid gland and gonads.

Essential oils secreted by juniper help fight depression, obsessive states, and irritability.

The antiseptic properties of the oil are also in demand in cosmetology; they help fight acne and pimples, smooth and tighten facial skin. By adding a little oil to your shampoo you can get rid of dandruff and excess oily hair. To prepare a facial tonic, you will need mineral water (200 ml) and 5 drops of juniper oil.

Like any medicine, consult a doctor before use. Should not be used by pregnant women, people with high blood pressure, kidney or stomach disease. The duration of use of juniper-based preparations should not exceed 2 months.

The berries of this conifer are popular not only in medicine. They are used as a spice in hot dishes.

Replanting in the fall to a new location

The ideal time for planting is autumn (October) or early spring. At this time, there is an optimal amount of moisture in the ground. If the root system is open, you can plant the bush in the summer.

Diseases and pests

Rust - the needles become a dirty orange color and dry out due to the concentration of salts. This can happen if animals choose a tree as a toilet. Treatment: place junipers away from rosaceous plants or create a barrier of other types of plants between them. Unfortunately, juniper rust is practically incurable. Remove the affected branches in a timely manner, spraying them with immunostimulants and watering them with microfertilizers.
Fusarium - the plant suffers from excess moisture, the needles turn yellow and die.
Treatment: timely destruction of all dried plants along with the roots. Compliance with agricultural technology. Before planting, treat young plants with an open root system with solutions of Maxim, Baktofit, and Vitaros. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, treat the soil under the plants with Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M, and Gamair. Do not disdain preventative spraying of the soil with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.
Schutte mushroom - attacks plants that do not tolerate shade. In spring, the needles turn orange-brown and small round black growths appear on them. Treatment: trim dried branches in a timely manner, carry out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture. In case of severe infection in summer, spray with Hom.
Drying of branches and bark - fungal growths in the form of red warts and longitudinal wood ulcers. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches and in unharvested plant debris. Treatment: follow agricultural practices, use high-quality planting material. Prune and immediately destroy affected branches. Treat wounds and cuts with a 1% solution of copper sulfate, cover them with garden varnish or Rannet pastes. Preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes: “Abiga-Peak”, “HOM”.
Aphids - mainly affects young plants with delicate needles. Treatment: promptly destroy the ants that cultivate aphids. Spray the trees with solutions of “Fufanon”, “Aktara”, “Aktellika”, “Decis”.
Scale - brown round bumps appear on the needles and young shoots, causing the young shoots to bend and the bark to die. Treatment: use hunting belts or, if their quantity is small, collect them manually. If everything is neglected, apply the insecticides “Fitoverm”, “Aktellik”, “Aktara”.
Spider mites are many tiny webs that gradually cover a tree. The mites themselves cannot be seen with the naked eye. Treatment: periodically shower the plants with a cold shower; mites do not like humidity. Remove pests using acaricides - “Vermitek”, “Fufanona”, “Aktellika”, “Fitoverma”.

Happy juniper plantings to you!

Diseases

Diseases affect the plant when there is excess moisture, strong shading, or the accumulation of mineral salts in the soil.

Signs of diseases:

Fungal mold
Yellowing of needles
Rust
Dry shoots

Helpers in these cases will be fungicidal preparations and Bordeaux mixture. Infected parts of the plant are cut off and destroyed. Insect pests (scale insects, aphids, spider mites) are controlled by treating the bush with soap solutions and insecticides. Prevent the appearance of ant nests under the horizontal juniper, so as not to encourage the appearance of aphids.

Prevention of painful lesions is sanitary weeding, removing fallen needles from under the bush.

Varietal diversity

Due to its popularity, visual beauty, and ease of care, this type of conifer is especially popular among gardeners. The varietal diversity includes about 100 different variations. The varieties most suitable for our climate zone:

Juniper horizontalis "Blue Chip" is a low-growing specimen. The height of the branches is about 30 cm, the crown is one and a half meters in diameter. The needles are short, sharp and bluish-gray in color. In the cold season, it acquires a bluish, brown tint. Spherical cone berries are black. The variety is adapted to life in polluted city conditions. Often used in container plantings, decorating the terraces of street restaurants.
M. horizontal “Andorra compact” - the maximum height of the bush reaches forty centimeters, the volume is one meter. The dense crown has a cushion shape. The color is ash green. The berries are round in shape, gray-blue in color.
Juniper horizontal "Lime Glow" - has a symmetrical, rounded crown shape. The height of the branches is up to 40 cm, the diameter of the crown is 1.5 m. It is distinguished by the lemon-canary color of the needles, which is preserved only on specimens growing in illuminated areas.
M. " Prince of Wales" - has a thick, bluish crown, up to 30 cm in height, up to 2.5 m in diameter. Dense, scaly needles are located on bluish-brown branches. Slow-growing, frost-resistant variety.

Just so you know.

Horizontal juniper (Juniperus horizontalis) comes from the Atlantic region of North America. The natural appearance is a low-creeping shrub, about 20cm high.

The needles of this species are of two types - small scaly and short needle-shaped. Usually both of these types coexist on the same plant. Another feature of the horizontal tree is the annual change in color of the needles from summer to winter. Moreover, this transition is expressed individually in different varieties. With the onset of cold weather, the needles of initially green varieties acquire brownish-violet shades; blue ones have cement purple; yellow ones are reddish-orange.

Currently, more than 50 varieties of horizontal juniper are known. All of them have a ground cover growth pattern, with a height maximum of 50cm. And some varieties do not rise above 10cm at all. But in width they can grow by 3 meters, and sometimes by 5 m.

Both the main species and all varieties of horizontal juniper in the middle zone are absolutely winter-hardy. Most varieties can be grown from zones 3 to 9, that is, throughout Russia from the Caucasian subtropics to taiga forests.