The main school flowers, gladioli, have bloomed, and now we have to dig up the corms and properly preserve them until a new planting. It seems that there is nothing complicated here, but the simple rules of gladioli agricultural technology are difficult to apply to specific climatic conditions. You have to retreat from them, and this may ultimately affect flowering next year. In this article we will tell you what members of our portal do with gladioli in September.
And on our portal you can read an article about how to make a school bouquet of gladioli and other country flowers.
When to dig up gladioli
According to agricultural technology, gladioli are dug out 35, and for late varieties - 40-50 days after the end of flowering. In reality, this is not always possible: flowering may end with the onset of stable frosts, and if you wait a month and a half, you will have to dig the corms out of the snow. Therefore, agronomists advise not to be afraid and to harvest gladioli earlier - if you provide them with good storage conditions, overwintering will go well.
It is also recommended not to delay harvesting because in cold and damp soil the corms begin to rot and become sick. This, first of all, concerns varieties with early flowering and dark-colored gladioli, which are characterized by low immunity to fungal diseases. They are the ones that are removed first. The gladioli that we grew from children can be removed later.
All gladioli are dug up before the onset of stable frosts.
The ideal day for digging is dry and warm; the soil should not be wet, but it should not be dry to a stone state, otherwise there is a risk of losing a large number of babies.
Sorting
During digging, all material must be laid out by variety in separate containers and provided with tags, and the children must be immediately separated from the mother tubers.
When digging, it is best to immediately place the gladioli bulbs in separate boxes according to variety.
The bulbs chosen for winter storage are:
- healthy, without signs of damage by diseases or pests;
- no older than four years;
- rounded in shape, in which the height approximately corresponds to the diameter;
- the largest babies with intact covering scales.
The healthiest and strongest bulbs are selected for winter storage.
At the same time, sick, old and flat ones with an overly large bottom, as well as suspicious specimens are rejected.
Sick, old, dried out and damaged bulbs are discarded
I prefer to burn all plant residues (excess and discarded bulbs, leaves, etc.) immediately.
When to dig up diseased gladioli
The leaves of gladioli are often affected by spots, especially if the summer was rainy and not very warm. This indicates that the plant is suffering from a fungal disease and looks like this:
If the lesion is quite large-scale, and not two or three spots on the entire plant, it makes sense to dig up the corms earlier than usual so that they, too, are not affected by the disease.
Main side effects
Containers for placing bulbs must be ventilated, so you cannot use plastic containers without holes or plastic bags. When using them, the number of rotted and spoiled tubers can range from 50 to 70% of the total volume. If there is no access to oxygen to the tubers, the process of rotting will begin. To prevent damage to the planting material, we recommend putting a pair of garlic cloves cut into pieces in the boxes. You can also sprinkle the bulbs with wood ash.
Pest Control
In winter, thrips can damage planting material. If they are found, damaged specimens are removed, the remaining ones should be treated with Hom. If it is not possible to buy it, the bulbs are placed in a hermetically sealed container. Thrips on damaged tubers die if you apply a cotton swab with medical alcohol. Next, dry the material. The procedure is carried out with a break of 4 days.
Properly prepared bulbs of your favorite varieties are able to withstand the cold with dignity, and then again delight the gardener with the beautiful and fragrant gladioli that emerge from them.
How to dig up gladioli
The stems of gladioli can be mowed before digging, or trimmed after digging. The corm is trimmed with pruning shears so that nothing unnecessary remains; both the roots and the entire above-ground part are cut off (but you can leave a stump up to 1 cm in size).
Trimmed corms are placed in a foundation solution (0.1%) for half an hour, then washed and placed in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3%) for another half an hour. This, of course, is an ideal processing option, but in extreme cases you can be content with the minimum.
GALE Member of FORUMHOUSE
It is imperative to treat with at least a dark cherry solution of potassium permanganate (30 min.).
Technology for digging bulbs
The bulbs need to be dug up in dry weather to free yourself from the work of freeing them from adhering soil. In addition, if the soil is dense, then there is a risk of injury to the corms and loss of children. A digging tool can be a pitchfork.
There are simple rules for digging up and storing gladioli for the winter:
- The distance between the forks and the stem, which is important to hold when digging by hand, should be 15-20 cm.
- To pull out the stem, you should not use force, because if it is pulled out before it dries, the injured corm may die.
- The stems and leaves are not completely removed, but cut to a third of their length.
- You need to find a dry, ventilated place and lay the bulbs there in one layer. You can leave them in direct sunlight so that the soil on them dries completely.
How to cull corms
Below in the photo we see a fully matured corm.
Signs of maturity of the gladiolus corm:
- Full-blooded root scales; the baby is “dressed” in scales.
- The scales of the baby are dense and dark.
- The baby is easily, without effort, separated from the corm.
During the growing season, one peduncle grows from the corm, and one young (replacement) corm with children is formed. Beginners often worry that they won't be able to figure out where the babies are and how to get them off.
Mariska Member of FORUMHOUSE
The children are impossible not to notice. Association: a large river mother mussel with a bunch of baby mussels clinging to the shell.
It happens that not one bud awakens in the corm, but two or three. In this case, two or three peduncles will grow and two or three replacement corms will form. In the spring, inspect each corm again, and if you notice that there is not one sprout, but two or three, leave the strongest one and break off the rest.
On average, corms of one gladiolus replacing each other live 3-4 years; Every year the corm becomes flatter, and its productivity and immunity decrease. It is because of this that old bulbs are discarded and burned, but unscrupulous sellers willingly slip them to newcomers. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to obtain a good, flowering plant from such a corm. When buying, look carefully, here are the signs of an old onion:
- it is flat;
- she has a wide bottom.
Otherwise, there may be such a sad picture - it looks like there is a flowerbed full of gladioli, but you still won’t get any flowers.
Valucha Member of FORUMHOUSE
This year I have a problem with gladioli - none of them bloom fully, all the buds turn yellow and wither.
We also do not take into storage children whose shells have burst or their corms are damaged.
Features of preparing pears for winter in different regions
Caring for a pear in the fall and preparing the tree for winter must be carried out following a number of certain rules. Also in this case, it is recommended to take into account the region where the tree is grown.
In the middle zone (in the Moscow region)
The middle zone is characterized by a relatively warm climate. That is why when growing crops, standard insulation will be sufficient.
After cleaning the area around the tree, it is necessary to prune the pear in the fall in accordance with the instructions. At the next stage, small branches are laid around the trunk circle.
After the first snow appears, it is collected throughout the area and a mound is made around the tree.
In the Volga region
The Volga region is characterized by a temperate climate, so preparing pears for wintering here is quite simple. To insulate the root system, it is often enough to mulch the soil. After cleaning the area, it is necessary to dig up the tree trunk circle, and then mulch it.
In the Urals
In order for the tree to fully survive the winter, fertilizers are applied in the autumn. After this, it is recommended to insulate the root system using standard methods. When growing a tree in this region, it is necessary to wrap the trunk with paper. This will eliminate the possibility of burns due to strong temperature fluctuations in autumn and winter.
In Siberia
Siberia has a rather harsh climate. That is why it is necessary to approach cultural insulation here as responsibly as possible. Otherwise, the plant may die under the influence of excessively low temperatures.
The tree trunk circle is not only mulched, but also covered with a fairly thick layer of small branches. You need to make a large snow mound on top. In this case, it is also recommended to insulate the trunk. It will provide protection from insects and pests.
Useful articles from the “Trees and Shrubs” section:
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- Planting lobelia in 2022: sowing dates
- When to dig up gladioli after flowering: how to store
- Planting chrysanthemums in autumn: when to plant, care, propagation
- Salad with rice for the winter: the simplest and most delicious recipes
- Plum preparations for the winter: simple and best recipes
- Caring for pears in autumn: feeding, pruning, processing, preparing for winter
- Horseradish for the winter: simple and delicious recipes
How to prepare gladioli corms for storage
Treated gladioli are placed on a dry, clean litter and dried for 10-15 days at a temperature of +25 - +30 degrees in the open air or indoors with good ventilation.
GALE
I keep it at the top of the kitchen cabinet near the hood.
After this, we carefully separate the replacement, young corm from the old one and the remnants of the roots. If we have properly cared for our gladioli, the bulb will be wrinkled, small, almost hidden in the roots. We separate the children. Many people do not like to tinker with them, however, it is better to spend time on them if you want to preserve the variety for a long time.
Sveta2609 Member of FORUMHOUSE
It's not difficult to collect children. I choose the largest ones, the size of a pea, and store them in a nylon stocking in the refrigerator. If you save only large bulbs, then after 3-4 years you can lose half of the varieties, because Gladioli bulbs degenerate over time. And the large children will begin to bloom in a year.
We send the young corms for further drying for another three weeks to a month at +18-+22 degrees. Children dry in less time; they cannot be allowed to dry out. And corms need a minimum amount of moisture for successful storage.
Questions
Is it possible to store gladioli in a city apartment on the windowsill?
Answer . It is possible if the temperature does not exceed certain limits. However, in some cases, individual corms soften during storage, and the rest are well preserved until spring. Softening is usually explained by the fact that the planting material, which was located closer to the glass, froze.
Why do most of the large dug up babies have a cracked shell?
Answer . The baby's shell cracks mainly due to uneven development, especially when dry and wet weather alternates at large intervals. As a result, nutrients are supplied unevenly and the shell, unable to withstand it, cracks.
When digging up, there were many diseased-looking corms. Can I plant them next year?
Answer . Diseased planting material should be thrown away. Inexperienced amateur flower growers, feeling sorry for the corms, try to preserve and plant them. However, such material either will not sprout, or weak plants will form from it, which will then die anyway.
We check gladioli bulbs for signs of disease. © Vesna Maric
When digging, is it necessary to select from the soil a child with a diameter of less than 5 mm?
Answer . You need to select all the babies from the soil, otherwise they will clog the soil, that is, the small babies will germinate the next year and the purity of the collection will be compromised. In addition, some varieties produce only small babies, which have to be used for rapid propagation of the variety.
Is it necessary to trim the roots of corms after digging?
Answer . For large corms, the roots are cut off for ease of transportation and storage. For young corms grown from children, the bottom is not exposed for better preservation. Their roots are only slightly trimmed and left until spring.
After digging, I was advised not to cut off the foliage of the gladioli, but to keep them like that for two weeks. Is it correct?
Answer . No, this is incorrect, since many pathogens of gladioli diseases can transfer to the corm. Such an event can be carried out without undesirable consequences only if you are 100% sure that there are no pathogens or pests on the leaves.
How does late digging affect the corm?
Answer . When dug up late, the corm ripens better and has greater mass and size. At the same time, diseases spread quickly during the stormy autumn season. Therefore, experts believe that it is better to lose in the mass of the corm, but gain in its health.
During drying, the corms and the baby became covered with a gray-green coating, similar to mold. Why is this?
Answer . This phenomenon is observed when corms are dried in a damp room with poor ventilation. This mold is a penicillium mycelium.
I dried the corms on the heating radiator. They became soft. Why is this?
Answer . If the drying temperature exceeds 40 °C for a long time, the corms seem to cook and soften.
Is it possible to keep a baby for two years?
Answer . It is possible if you maintain a certain storage mode.
I stored the corms in a Frost brand refrigerator. In the middle of winter I looked through them - many turned out to be soft. What disease has affected my corms?
Answer . The Frost brand refrigerator does not have automatic temperature control. Closer to the freezer it is very low. Those corms that softened simply froze. It is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature in the storage area. If it drops below 3 C, you need to change the storage location.
Dry the bulbs and put them away for storage. © Palmetto Acres Garden
After drying, I stored the corms in the refrigerator. About ten days later I looked at them - they were all covered with light brown spots. Why could this be?
Answer . Your corms are affected by a disease called brown rot, or botrythiosis. The disease, apparently, can be explained by the fact that they were not completely dried. The drying regime must be followed.
I removed the scales from the dug up and dried corms that had grown from the baby and put them in the cellar for storage. They told me what I did was wrong. When should you clean corms?
Answer . After digging and drying, the corms are stored without removing the scales. Sometimes only the top ones are removed if there are signs of disease. During storage, the scales protect the corms from drying out and mechanical damage (as a result of the latter, pathogenic microorganisms can penetrate into the corm). Corms are usually cleared of scales one to two weeks before planting.
If the corms are not completely cleaned, then spores of pathogenic microorganisms and thrips can get into the soil along with the scales. In addition, cleaning the corms allows you to further ensure that there are no diseases on their surface. If diseases are detected, the corms are disinfected and treated with microelements and growth stimulants before planting. Unpeeled corms sprout a week later.
Materials used: V. A. Lobaznov
How to store gladioli in winter
During the entire drying time, we monitor the corms and if we see that some are starting to deteriorate, we throw them away. After drying, we place the corms in paper bags (or thin stockings, very convenient!) and send them for storage. Children are kept separately.
It is advisable to store babies in a paper bag. As a rule, all members of our portal store corms in a vegetable drawer in the refrigerator, in a box on the windowsill in a heated country house, or on a glassed-in loggia. The main thing is that the temperature is stable throughout the entire storage period and is +5-6 degrees. Proper storage can, among other things, prevent the development of a dangerous pest - thrips.
Krysya Member of FORUMHOUSE
Here's what I learned today about gladioli: they can be infested with thrips. These are small black or white, flea-like creatures that chew out the flower stalk.
These bulbs are infested with thrips.
These bulbs are infested with thrips.
To get rid of thrips, you need to treat the corms with mothballs. Or do it simpler: add a few heads of garlic to the wintering gladioli. Or here’s another newspaper-dichlorvos method:
Samaritan Woman Member of FORUMHOUSE
After drying and cleaning, I put the bulbs in a plastic bag, along with crumpled newspaper sprinkled with dichlorvos, and tie them up for two or three days. Removes thrips completely.
Wintering in the basement
The tubers in the basement tolerate the hibernation period well. There is constant air temperature and humidity, which is favorable for storing planting material. The corms are also placed “with sprouts up and roots down” in layers in thick cardboard boxes or wooden boxes and placed on shelves away from vegetables that cause evaporation.
Unpeeled garlic cloves placed between the rows help protect planting material from infection.
It is important to inspect the planting material from time to time and discard damaged tubers. Small “sores” can be treated with brilliant green or a solution of potassium permanganate, and then put back into storage.
Advice: When choosing a place and storage conditions, carefully select the material. Although gladiolus can bloom safely for up to 10 years, its viability decreases over the years, and its susceptibility to disease increases. Gardeners should take this aspect into account and try to give way to the younger generation.
It is recommended to choose young, round tubers with a small bottom diameter for storage and subsequent planting.
What to do if the corms wake up in the middle of winter
In winter, gladioli corms go through two phases. The first phase, the natural resting phase, lasts about 40 days. At this time, the corm will not sprout, even if it is warm and humid. Then comes a period of forced dormancy, and here it can already germinate. If this does happen, you will have to take out the corms, lay them out for a week to dry in a room with the heating on, and put them back in a cold place. When there are 2-3 weeks left before planting, the storage temperature will need to be increased to +15 degrees.
On FORUMHOUSE you can find any information on the agricultural technology of gladioli and information on the agricultural technology of other bulbous plants. Check out our gladiolus show: photographs of the most beautiful blooming gladioli grown by members of our portal. Read the article on how to store, root and divide dahlias. Watch our video about forcing, keeping and planting bulbs.
conclusions
To preserve roses, gladioli corms and dahlia tubers, you need to remember simple rules:
- do not store dahlias and gladioli together;
- provide the plants with the necessary temperature conditions and the required humidity;
- regularly check and discard spoiled planting material.
If these conditions are met, the “loss” will be small, and the gardener will be able to preserve the valuable plant until spring.
On FORUMHOUSE you can find more information: about storing gladioli, about storing dahlias in winter, read an article on how to make an excellent bouquet of country flowers. Watch a video that will teach you how to successfully store seedlings before planting.
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Tips for flower growers
The following tips from experienced gardeners will help preserve the material until spring planting without loss:
- Tubers will not lose much moisture and will not be damaged by disease if they are dipped in warm paraffin and then cooled in water.
- For better preservation, each onion can be wrapped in paper and only then placed in boxes.
- To prevent the bulbs from drying out and becoming moldy in winter, add a few cloves of garlic to the box with them, or sprinkle them with wood ash.
- There is no need to try to save all the bulbs. Poor quality material will not germinate and will also infect healthy specimens with diseases.
- Be sure to label the boxes, indicating the type and color, since before spring all the bulbs will become similar, and it will be difficult to understand which variety is which.
- If by spring the tubers are too dry, just soak them in water for a couple of hours before planting.
We hope that these recommendations will help you preserve valuable specimens of luxurious flowers, and when winter is over, you can plant them in the flowerbed again.
Choosing containers
Any container made of natural material is suitable for storage:
- cardboard box;
- fabric bag;
- paper bag;
- wooden box;
- mesh for vegetables.
Plastic and cellophane bags are not suitable because they do not allow the bulbs to “breathe”. You can wrap each one in newspaper to protect it from light.
To protect the tubers from insect pests, sprinkle them with powder, for example, Karbofos. You can also use the traditional method: put fresh garlic and dried mint leaves in a storage container. Check your inventory once a month.
