Apricot trees are almost the first to bloom in the spring, with the exception of almonds. During the flowering period, apricot orchards are enveloped in an amazingly beautiful pink haze of large fragrant flowers. Flowering trees evoke both admiration and excitement because early flowering can be destroyed by severe spring frosts. How to counter this? How to preserve delicate apricot flowers? This will also be discussed in the article.
How does apricot bloom?
Apricot blossoms are one of the signs of the coming spring. Apricot trees bloom even before the leaves bloom. First, swollen pink buds appear on the trees, which then turn into pink or white fragrant flowers with pink veins.
Video: apricot blossoms
What color does apricot bloom?
Apricot flowers are single, with five petals, large, 25–30 mm in diameter, white or pale pink. The calyx of the flower is small, fused, with five dark red reflexed sepals. It falls off along with the stamens and pistil after fertilization occurs. From 20 to 30 stamens are located inside the flower in several rows.
Apricot flowers are white with pink veins or pink
How many days does apricot bloom?
The beauty of flowering apricot trees can last up to 10 days.
At what temperature does apricot bloom?
The friendly flowering of apricots begins at temperatures above +10C
The awakening of flower buds occurs already when the temperature rises to +5 0 C. If it occurs for a short time, the buds freeze again. If the temperature persists for a long time, flowering begins. The sum of effective temperatures exceeding the threshold of +5 0 C for the beginning of apricot flowering should be equal to 300 0 C.
For apricot trees to bloom, temperatures above +10 0 C are needed. Ideally, this should be a temperature of +17, +19 0 C in calm weather without strong winds. Such conditions are optimal for the fertilization process, and bees are then most active. In reality, the temperature range varies from +7 to +28 0 C. And as a result of this, the fruit harvest will be unstable.
What time does pruning take place?
Apricot pruning is carried out twice, the first time in the spring and the second in the fall. This procedure is for health purposes, and it also helps to form a correct and beautiful crown of a fruit tree.
It is necessary to prune a tree based on its age.
Autumn pruning begins from the periphery, that is, all shoots whose length exceeds 40 cm are shortened. Over the winter, the plant will fully recover and gain strength to lay new buds.
In spring, the bush is pruned for sanitary purposes. All weak branches are removed, as well as old ones that are more than three years old.
Note! Pruning requires regularity; if you ignore the procedure, this will lead to thickening of the crown, and this can affect the yield; fruit formation will not be abundant or regular.
Pruning is carried out using sharp pruning shears, the cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees. All shoots are pruned by 30%, with the exception of skeletal branches, which cannot be touched.
When does apricot bloom?
In the south, flowering begins in the first half of April, in other areas a little later. Early flowering has dangerous consequences, since the threat of spring frosts is likely. And the early development of flower buds leads to their death by return frosts.
Apricot flowering times depending on the growing area
The table contains information about the approximate flowering times of apricots depending on the region of growth.
Table: apricot flowering dates depending on the region
| Region | Approximate flowering times | Recommended varieties (based on the state register of breeding achievements) |
| Armenia | End of March - beginning of April | |
| Ukraine | End of March - beginning of April | Red-cheeked Kyiv selection, Kiev handsome, Kiev cannery, Melitopol early, Sambur early, Monastyrsky, Veteran of Sevastopol |
| Krasnodar | First half of April | Sun of Kuban, Parnassus, Kuban black, Red-cheeked, Hardy, Musa, Pleasure, Orlik of Stavropol |
| Crimea | Mid March | Red-cheeked, Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, Nikitsky (a variety of Red-cheeked), Altair, Crimean Cupid, Crocus, Spark of Taurida, Dionysus, Marvelous, Veteran of Sevastopol |
| Caucasus | Mid March | Pineapple Tsyurupinsky, Melitopol early, |
| Middle lane | End of April - beginning of May | Black Prince, Lel, Red-cheeked, Hardy, Royal, Northern Triumph, |
| Moscow region | Mid May | Iceberg, Alyosha, Countess, Monastyrsky, Lel, Favorite, Tsarsky |
| Rostov region | Mid April | Melitopol early, Red-cheeked seedling, Mlievsky radiant, Fortuna |
| Voronezh | End of April - beginning of May | Voronezh early, Compote, Surprise, Voronezh aromatic, Triumph northern, Champion of the north |
The effect of frost on apricot flowering
Problems with early flowering of apricot are associated with the possibility of a return of spring frosts.
How many degrees of frost can an apricot withstand?
Closed buds can withstand temperature drops to -1 0 C without consequences. During the flowering period, a drop in temperature to -1, -2 0 C can lead to complete loss of the crop.
Spring frosts are detrimental to flowering apricots
How to delay apricot flowering in spring: recommended methods
Extending the dormant period of apricot is a real way to increase the regularity of its fruiting. There are quite a few ways to do this. Experts believe that it is best to combine several of them at once:
- Grafting on a crop with a later ripening period;
- Summer pruning (the process is described in more detail below in gardening tips);
- Mulching with sawdust: first, the tree trunk circle is sprinkled with snow, then with sawdust, and then again with snow, compacting each layer. This “pie” freezes in a single layer and does not melt for a long time, holding back the onset of flowering;
- Whitewashing the trunk: white color reflects the sun's rays and prevents the trunk from warming up;
- Spraying with saline solution: before flowering, spray the crown with a strong saline solution (400g/10 l of water). Flowering will shift by 7–10 days;
- Watering: in the fall, just before frost, water the tree generously so that it freezes well in winter.
Video: how to slow down the flowering of apricots
Advice from experts
There is only one way to delay flowering, but not by mulching or compacting snow, that’s for sure. During the summer sap flow, here in the Lower Volga, this is the end of July - beginning of August, it is necessary to do a little pruning of the tree. At this time, fruit buds are laid for the next year. By cutting out diseased and at the same time dry branches, you postpone this formation ten days later (until the tree is sick). Accordingly, flowering next year occurs later.
Murlat https://www.asienda.ru/answers/1501/
How to protect a blooming apricot from frost
Smoke can protect plantings from light frosts (down to -1 0 C), because in this way a smoke blanket is created around the trees, which does not allow warm air to rise and escape. It needs to be “layed” before freezing begins and kept until sunrise.
Reason 1: the tree is not yet “ripe”
Young apricots not blooming? Maybe it's just his youth? Planted as annuals, some zoned apricot varieties can begin to fully bloom in the third year (Pinsky, Laureat, Medovy, etc.). However, there are species that begin to bear fruit in the 6th or even 8th year - you cannot expect early flowering from them, you should be patient.
In addition, you may be dealing not with varietal seedlings, but with seedlings, and in the most unfortunate case - wild apricot. Then you can wait for flowering and fruiting for many years.
What to do?
Buy seedlings only from trusted sellers, study the characteristics of the variety you have chosen and wait.
What it looks like and where it grows
We have all seen an apricot tree at least once in our lives. This is a plant of medium height (up to 8 meters) with dark, gray-brown bark and a spreading crown. Apricot leaves are green, round in shape with teeth, smooth. The tree looks much more interesting during the flowering period (March, April): bare branches without leaves are strewn with small white or tinged pink flowers.
The fruits have a round shape and velvety skin. Depending on the variety, the color can vary from yellow to orange-red. That is why the emphasis in the apricot photo is on the fruits and flowering trees.
With good care and satisfactory conditions, apricot lives up to 100 years. Young trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 4 and gradually stop producing crops around the age of 40.
China is considered to be the birthplace of the apricot. Currently, this garden crop has become widespread throughout the world.
The tree prefers a warm temperate climate, therefore it is cultivated in Abkhazia, Kyrgyzstan, the Caucasus, in the southern regions of the European part of Russia, Turkey, Iran, Italy, Ukraine, Greece and other countries with suitable conditions.
Despite the “capriciousness” of apricot regarding weather conditions, the crop is successfully grown in central Russia. With sufficient care, the right choice of planting site, timely pruning and fertilizing, you can get a very good harvest of this sunny fruit.
Varieties
Red-cheeked
Red-cheeked The crown of the tree is spreading, sparse and rounded. Tree height up to 4.5 m. Fruits are ovoid, not compressed. Their size ranges from 40 to 52 g. The fruits have thin skin. Shelf life: up to 1 week. Good winter hardiness.
PROS:
- yield up to 37 kg per plant
- unpretentiousness
- self-fertility
MINUSES:
- with a small amount of moisture, the fruits become small
Khabarovsk
Khabarovsk Tree height up to 5 m. Spreading crown, sparse. The fruits are cone-shaped, weighing from 30 to 45 g. The pulp of the fruit is thick, of medium juiciness. The skin is practically not separated from the pulp.
PROS:
- stable yield from season to season
- edible kernel
- good separation of pulp from seeds
- propagates well by seeds
MINUSES:
- poor winter hardiness
- the fruits are practically non-transportable
Kichiginsky
Kichiginsky Tree about 4 m high. The crown is flat, of medium density. The plant is easy to process and harvest. The fruits are small, weighing 15-18 g. The color of the fruit is light yellow, the skin has a slight shine. The taste of the fruit is sweet, with a slight sourness. The universal fruits can be used raw, for canning and for drying.
PROS:
- great taste
- high safety and transportability
- high winter hardiness
MINUSES:
- relatively small fruit
- late entry into fruiting
Alyosha
Alyosha A relatively new variety, bred in 1988. The trees reach 3.5-4.5 m. The crown is rounded and dense. The diameter of the flowers is atypical for apricots - more than 4 cm. Apricots are small, their weight rarely exceeds 20 g. They are yellow and slightly shiny.
PROS:
- early ripening variety, harvest can be obtained at the end of June
- from one small tree you can get up to 55 kg of fruit
- grafts onto almost any rootstock
MINUSES:
- relatively large stone with a small fruit
Dessert
Dessert Plant height is 5-6 m. The crown is round, highly thickened. Apricot weight is 20-32 g. The surface of the fruit is yellowish. There is practically no blush. Fruits abundantly. It is early ripening, harvesting is already completed by August.
PROS:
- great taste
- yield up to 50 kg
- ability to self-pollinate
MINUSES:
- branches often break under the weight of the fruit
- Due to its strong density, it requires regular pruning
Aquarius
Aquarius Tall tree, 5-6 m with a thinned crown and practically no branching shoots. The weight of the fruits does not exceed 30 g. They are reddish-orange. The pulp is juicy, easily separated from the seed. This variety bears fruit in the second decade of August.
PROS:
- good yield indicators - up to 45 kg
- withstands frosts down to -30°C
- all types of shoots bear fruit
MINUSES:
- the variety is practically not stored or transported
Son of Red-Cheeked
Son of the Red-cheeked Tall variety (up to 6 m) with an elongated rounded crown. The fruits are large (weight 50-60 g), have an elongated shape and are laterally compressed. Apricots are predominantly orange in color. The fruits are pubescent, the blush is contrasting and stands out. The variety bears fruit at the end of summer.
PROS:
- wonderful taste
- good disease resistance
- the plant tolerates frosts down to -30°C
MINUSES:
- irregular fruiting
- with high winter hardiness, the buds are vulnerable to frost in March-April
Snezhinsky
Snezhinsky Variety has a small growth, up to 4-4.5 m. The crown is quite extensive, its thickening is average. The fruits weigh no more than 25 g. They have an orange color and a clearly visible reddish blush. The pulp is not hard, it is easily separated from both the skin and the pit. Fruiting at the end of August.
PROS:
- yield is constant from season to season
- great taste
- the plant tolerates frosts down to -35°C
MINUSES:
- ripe fruits, under their own weight, tear off the petioles and fall off
Favorite
Favorite A new variety, developed about 20 years ago. A low tree (up to 3.5 m) with a spreading crown. The fruits are medium-sized, weighing up to 30 g. They ripen at the end of August. High taste qualities.
PROS:
- excellent fruit taste
- well preserved and transported
- high winter hardiness
- versatility in use
MINUSES:
- in cold summers it does not have time to ripen even by September
Countess
Countess is a tree 6 m high with a spherical crown. Flowering begins later than other varieties. It has numerous small flowers with a diameter of 2 cm. Can be pollinated by other varieties. The weight of the fruit is 30-40 g. Ripening occurs in mid-August.
PROS:
- good taste
- well preserved and transported
- versatility in use
MINUSES:
- Fruiting and fruit size depend on the weather; during dry summers, the weight of the fruit is halved
- self-pollination is ineffective; for good yield requires the presence of other apricot varieties in the garden
Academician
Academician Tall (up to 5-6 m) tree with an oval crown. Fruits weighing from 30 to 55 g. The pulp is dense, crispy. The stone is freely separated from the pulp. The kernel is sweet.
PROS:
- large and tasty fruits
- versatility in use
MINUSES:
- low winter hardiness
- cracking of fruits in wet summers
Black velvet
Black velvet Tree height is about 4 m. The fruits are medium, weighing up to 30 g. The color of the fruits is dark purple. Pubescence is weak. Ripening at the end of July. The fruits are well preserved.
PROS:
- high quality fruits and good preservation
- unpretentiousness and adaptation to various conditions
- high yield
MINUSES:
- in dry weather the fruits become smaller
Delight
Delight A tree of small height (up to 3 m), with a spreading crown. The fruits are small in size, up to 25 g, round in shape. The color of the fruit is yellow with a red blush. They ripen in early August.
PROS:
- excellent taste
- good winter hardiness in mature trees
MINUSES:
- plants up to 5 years old are susceptible to frost and sunburn
Rattle
Rattle Tree of medium height (up to 4 m). The crown is sparse, rounded. The fruits are large, their weight can reach 80 g in young trees and 45-60 g in plants older than 10-12 years. Most fruits lack blush. Ripening occurs in early August.
PROS:
- excellent taste
- large fruits
- high yield
MINUSES:
- with high soil acidity, bitterness appears in the taste of fruits
- the tree requires regular pruning; excess ovaries should also be removed to avoid branches breaking off under the weight of the fruit
Bullfinch
Bullfinch A low-growing tree up to 2 m in height. The crown is dense, spherical. Flowering occurs in May and ripening at the end of July. This variety is ideal for northern regions with short summers. The weight of the fruit is small, up to 20 g. The yield is up to 20 kg per tree, however, taking into account its size, the yield per unit area is comparable to other varieties.
PROS:
- good fruit taste
- high winter hardiness
- short ripening time
MINUSES:
- small fruits
- the need for regular pruning, up to 2-3 times per season
Seraphim
Seraphima A tree of medium height, up to 3 m. The crown is semi-spreading, its shape is varied. The fruits are round in shape, weighing up to 30 g. The stone is easily separated from the pulp, the kernel is sweet.
PROS:
- good preservation of fruits
- high yield
MINUSES:
- the variety is vulnerable to diseases and pests
- the plant is susceptible to sunburn, especially in early spring
Champion of the North
Champion of the North A tree with a sparse crown, up to 5 m high. The fruits are large, up to 65 g. The pulp is orange, the stone is freely separated from the pulp. Ripening occurs in July.
PROS:
- large fruits
- high yield
- good preservation and transportability of fruits
MINUSES:
- vulnerability to fungal diseases
Sibiryak Baikalova
Sibiryak Baikalova Tree up to 3 m high with a rounded crown with a diameter of up to 4 m. The crown is spreading and sparse. The fruits weigh from 25 to 37 g. The color is yellow with a red blush. Blooms in mid-May, ripens at the end of July. Self-pollination is weak.
PROS:
- large fruits with good taste
- the shape of the crown makes the variety very convenient for processing
MINUSES:
- requires pollinators of other varieties
- vulnerable to burns in spring
- vulnerable to damping off
Success
Success Height up to 3 m. Crown pyramidal, branching and crown density weak. The fruits are medium in size, weighing up to 35 g. The color of the fruits is yellow, but they are almost completely covered with a reddish blush. Universal variety.
PROS:
- good taste
- high yield
- frost resistance up to -40°С
MINUSES:
- requires pollinators
Ulyanikhinsky
Ulyanikhinsky Tall tree, up to 5 m. The crown is wide, round, not dense. The fruit weight is up to 35 g. They are yellow in color with shine and a slight blush. The variety is universal and tolerates transportation well. Ripening occurs in August.
PROS:
- good taste
- good disease resistance
- high yield
MINUSES:
- the long trunk and wide crown make working with the tree inconvenient
- fruits may be sour if there is a lack of moisture
Amur
Amur The height of the tree is average, up to 4 m. The crown is elongated, dense with a large number of leaves. The weight of the fruit reaches 32 g. The pulp is orange and tender. Ripening occurs in mid-August.
PROS:
- tolerates drought well
- resistant to fungal diseases
- high yield
MINUSES:
- relatively low winter hardiness
- small fruit size
How to plant apricot
Experienced gardeners recommend planting apricots in early spring, when the flow of juice has not yet begun. If the seedling already has leaves, then there is a high probability that it will be sick for a long time or will not take root at all.
Planting apricots in the fall may also not bring results. However, there are successful cases, especially if you try to plant a seedling in September, cutting the branches by one third and the leaves in half. These simple procedures will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the tree, thereby preserving it.
A level place for planting is not suitable; you need to find or make an area with a slight slope yourself. In the case of clay soil, sand and small stones must be poured into the bottom of the hole. Acidic areas require the addition of lime.
Sandy loam soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction would be ideal. It is worth remembering that the apricot tree does not tolerate waterlogging.
Planting holes should be carefully prepared. Each of them is a square with sides of 80 cm, with a similar depth. At the bottom there is a drainage made of stones or broken bricks.
Preparing for landing
In order for the tree to bloom and bear fruit, you need to carefully prepare the site and planting material. It is important to observe the specifics of preparing for landing, taking into account certain weather conditions.
Soil selection and preparation
The soil chosen is not poor, but also not oversaturated with fertilizers and humus; it must be loosened within a radius of 0.5 m in a circle from the planting hole. You should not plant apricots on clay soil.
It is recommended to avoid both low-lying and elevated surfaces. The lowlands are threatened by stagnant water, and the highlands by winds. If you need to make a choice between two such areas, then you should pay attention to the elevation.
Planting pit
The planting hole is dug and formed in the fall. But direct preparation for planting a seedling occurs 2-3 weeks before planting. A classic planting hole with a depth of 45-55 cm and a width of 65 to 85 cm is prepared and filled with a mixture of fertile soil combined with fertilizers.
It would be ideal to use the following composition:
- 1.5-2 buckets of manure;
- 550-650 g granulated superphosphate;
- 450-550 g of potassium sulfate.
Care and breeding
Caring for apricots involves regular watering, loosening the soil around the tree, weeding and fertilizing. Young plants need to receive about five waterings per season, 25-30 liters per tree.
To avoid rapid evaporation of moisture after watering in hot weather, it is worth stocking up on a sufficient amount of mulch, which is poured around the apricot.
In the fall, when digging shallowly, it is necessary to apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. In the spring, even before apricots bloom, nitrogen fertilizers and superphosphate are applied. Don’t forget to whitewash trees to avoid burns.
The sunny fruit blooms early, so the gardener always faces the question of how to cover the apricot. A two-layer agril shelter can cope perfectly with spring frosts.
In this case, the shelter must be formed so that bees can freely fly under it and carry out pollination. To attract their attention, gardeners recommend spraying the tree with water and honey.
Cold and rainy summers carry with them the risks of apricot disease with hole spot and fruit rot. As soon as signs of the disease are noticed, all trees and their foliage must be urgently treated with any of the following drugs: topsin-M, topaz, copper oxychloride. Intavir will help in the fight against codling moths and aphids.
The following work can be preventive measures: installing a ventilated fence around the perimeter of the garden, collecting dried leaves and fruits, removing diseased branches, mulching and proper pruning of the tree, which is worth dwelling on in more detail.
Diseases and pests
Pests attack apricot fruits, leaf crowns, bark, roots and other parts. Gardeners are advised to examine plants for foreign insects and traces of their presence - cobwebs, colored spots, local destruction of the tree bark.
If there are suspicions that pests have infested around the apricot or in the plant itself, it is worth additional treatment with special means. Such unscheduled cases are separately described in the instructions for use for concentrated mixtures of drugs.
Moniliosis
Moniliosis is also called fruit rot - it is a fungal disease. It appears at the beginning or end of flowering - some of the leaves and inflorescences dry out. Causes brown spots on fruits and then small yellow pads appear on them. It is treated with such drugs as Rovral, Abiga-Pik and Gamair, and Bordeaux mixture also helps.
Gum treatment
This is a non-infectious disease that manifests itself by the release of a tar-like, thick, amber-colored fluid. It has a bitter and viscous taste and appears on the aerial parts of the apricot. The disease can be prevented by avoiding injury to the tree. Effective prevention is the correct choice of variety, it is important that it is zoned.
Mushroom Balsa
An infectious disease such as Balsa Mushroom manifests itself as sores on the apricot bark. It is treated with a solution of the concentrated drug Switch according to the instructions. Treatment must be carried out at least 1-2 weeks before harvest.
Bacterial spot
This disease manifests itself as large brown spots, the area of which dries out. Around the affected area, the color of the foliage changes and turns yellow. The plant is treated by systematically spraying with a solution of copper sulfate.
The video explains more about bacterial spotting:
Cytosporosis
Cytosporosis is a dangerous fungal disease. When infected, convex new growths appear on the trunk, which change the color around them to burgundy. It also has a negative effect on the inside of the tree - the affected area softens, and thin branches dry out.
Prevention is to whitewash the trunk with concentrated lime and systematically apply portions of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. When infected, the affected areas are eliminated by removing the bark and branches.
Hole spot
This fungal disease is also known as clasterosporiasis. It is manifested by the appearance of small spots over the entire area of the affected foliage. Then they acquire a brown border around themselves and holes form inside.
Affected branches are cut off and burned. Chemical treatment is carried out, Bordeaux mixture and copper sulfate are good. You can also treat the tree with Horus.
Verticillium
The causative agent of this disease is fungi. The leaves dry out and curl vertically, red spots appear inside the shoots, and the fruits are stunted or mummified.
The disease is prevented by avoiding waterlogging of the soil; infected branches are cut off and burned. To cure a completely damaged tree, chemicals such as Topsin-M, Previkur, Fundazol and Vitaros are used.
You can get additional information about other apricot diseases and pests here.
Tree pruning
As with all fruit trees, there is a standard for pruning apricots. The crown of all trees should be no more than 4 m in height and width. Branches, the angle of inclination of which in relation to the trunk is less than 50 degrees, are cut at the base, just above the ring-shaped overflow (the method is called “on the ring”).
In the same way, all intertwining branches that look inward and are located close to each other are cut out. We can talk about a good result when the sun illuminates literally every leaf of the apricot tree. Circumcision is performed in spring, summer and autumn.
Success
Apricot Success belongs to the category of the most winter-hardy and at the same time productive varieties.
- Success is a medium-sized tree, reaching 3 m in height. The crown has a pyramidal shape. Weak branching. It blooms with small white-pink flowers.
- The average fruit weight is 20–25g. Up to 35 kg of harvest can be harvested from an adult tree. Ripening occurs in the last days of August and the beginning of autumn, depending on the climatic characteristics of the growing region.
- The fruits look neat, round in shape, with thin skin, painted in a delicate orange color with a gentle pink blush. The pulp is dense and sweet.
- An extremely winter-hardy variety, able to survive at –35 C.
Is it possible to grow apricots in an apartment?
The conditions of the apartment will not allow you to grow an apricot tree with a bountiful harvest. As a rule, a barren wildflower grows from a seed planted in a pot. In addition, homemade apricot rarely gains color. True, for decorative purposes this option will be very good.
The wildflower is grafted and planted in a permanent place, then the harvest is good. It is better to plant several seeds at once, since not all of them will be able to germinate, and the seedlings will differ in strength and growth.
Features of summer care
Summer tree care comes down to abundant watering. Active growth of young branches begins, pruning apricots in the summer becomes a mandatory procedure. Otherwise, all the strength and energy will go into the foliage. The plant will bloom worse and there will be fewer fruits. In the future, the tree will actively grow upward. And it will become extremely difficult to harvest from it.
Since the ripening of fruits occurs precisely in the summer, the main concerns of the gardener are related to the collection, sale or processing of fruits. Pick the fruits in a timely manner. If they were collected immature, they are unlikely to ripen. The collection begins from the lower branches and gradually rises higher. In August, the fruits are fully harvested. The plant is watered abundantly, and the harvested crop is used to prepare compotes, dried apricots and other delicacies.
Apricot fruits will delight you both in summer and winter, for example in the form of jam!
What to cook from fruits and their beneficial properties
Apricots are one of children's favorite treats. The fruit helps support immunity and is rich in vitamins and beneficial elements, including potassium, magnesium and iron.
Dried apricot fruits, namely apricots and dried apricots, can be stored for a long time without losing their beneficial properties. Being a tasty and high-calorie food, dried apricot fruits will delight you in the cold winter and save you from vitamin deficiency. Pies, compote, jam - all this can be made from apricot, delighting yourself and your guests.
The annual miracle of spring gardens blooming will never cease to amaze and enchant people. The first of the garden trees to bloom is the apricot. It opens its buds when there is no real warmth yet and there is a threat of night frosts. The main task of the gardener during this period is to delay flowering or protect the flowering tree from exposure to low temperatures in order to ensure a future harvest.
How does apricot bloom?
Listen to the symphony of spring. Enter the garden when it blooms...
Andrey Dementyev
Having admired the beauty of a blooming apricot, the gardener will certainly return his thoughts and deeds to his daily worries, because in the spring there are a lot of them. Unless a beginner in this field begins to examine in detail the structure of an apricot flower on a branch that is still bare and without leaves. The white or pinkish apricot flower is quite large, you can see all its elements while enjoying the pleasant aroma.
The apricot flower is quite large, so you can easily see all its elements
The flower is located on a small calyx, consisting of sepals fused at the bottom. Five rounded petals make up a flower corolla, reaching 20–30 mm in diameter. The male part of the flower has 25–45 stamens arranged in several rows. Each of them consists of a translucent white filament and a yellow anther on which pollen develops.
The female part (pistil) is located in the very center of the flower. The white, slightly pubescent stigma is capable of retaining pollen that has fallen on it, which then germinates and fertilizes the ovule hidden inside the pistil. As a result of pollination, a tiny ovary should appear, and all other parts of the flower will fall off over time.
Every spring, huge numbers of flowers cover the apricot branches to give life to new fruits.
Botanists say that a flower is simply a shortened shoot that is adapted for the reproduction of angiosperms.
Video: blooming apricot orchards
4. Wrong location chosen for planting apricot
The best place for apricot is high and sunny. Do not plant it in the shade, in depressions and depressions, on soils with close groundwater.
ADVICE
When planting an apricot on a plot, try to place it so that it grows closer to another variety blooming at the same time.
- Apricot likes soil without stagnant melt and rainwater, preferably sandy loam or light loam.
- On heavy soils, roots develop slowly and fruiting will be delayed.
Photo: plant apricot in spring in the sunniest place
Flowering time
The southern apricot blooms before everyone else, without waiting for stable heat. Flowering times differ in different regions - the further south, the earlier. Everything depends primarily on the weather of the current year, and sometimes even on the microclimate of a particular area: it happens that apricots in one place have already faded, while in another the first timid flowers are just blooming. In any case, the blooming of apricot trees is a convincing sign of the beginning of spring. However, it is still a long way from its complete dominion; at this time, night frosts and recurrent frosts are still possible.
Apricot blooms very early, when the first leaves are just beginning to bloom on the trees.
Even a short-term cold snap can significantly affect the future harvest. Apricot flowers and ovaries, significantly damaged by frost, fall off the tree. Those that are less affected often develop deformed fruits that are unsuitable for consumption.
The influence of temperature on the growth of flower ovaries
Scientists have long been interested in the question of how the buds, buds, flowers and ovaries of fruit trees tolerate low temperatures. The data obtained turned out to be very interesting:
- The stability of the buds and flowers of a fruit tree has nothing to do with its resistance to winter frosts.
- Blooming apricot and even peach flowers can tolerate lower temperatures than apple blossoms.
- The resistance of flowers to low temperatures depends on the weather conditions at the time of their opening. Fruit tree inflorescences that bloom in cold weather can tolerate lower temperatures than those that bloom on a warm day.
- Different flower elements have different degrees of resistance to low temperatures: the flower pistils suffer the most, while the anthers are the most resistant to cold. This is typical not only for apricots, but also for other stone fruits.
- A strong, but short-term drop in temperature is less dangerous for flowering trees than a weak, but longer drop.
- For apricot buds, negative temperatures from -1.1 to -5.5 ºС can be fatal, for blossoming flowers - from -0.5 to -2.75 ºС, for a formed ovary - from 0 ºС to -2.2 ºС. That is, the fruit ovaries are the most vulnerable to freezing.
There are flowers, but no fruits - reasons and solution
Lack of fruiting after flowering is also a very common problem. The reasons include the following:
- self-sterile or poorly pollinating variety;
- lack of pollinating insects;
- weather.
The last point is clear: drought and heat, like rainy, cold summers, have a detrimental effect on fruit formation. Rain prevents the flight of pollinating insects, and cold weather and, on the contrary, sudden heat, affect the quality of pollen.
Choosing a self-sterile variety
Apricot varieties are divided into those pollinated by their own pollen:
- self-fertile varieties < (self-pollinating, self-fertile);
- self-sterile (self-sterile), requiring the proximity of a pollinator;
- partially self-fertile.
It is believed that apricot varieties are predominantly self-fertile; mainly hybrid forms and a few varieties are self-fertile.
Consistently self-fertile varieties have a high percentage of ovary - 20-60%, self-fertile 0-10%, partially self-fertile - 10-20%.
To be fair, it is worth noting that self-fertile forms also require cross-pollination, and the description often indicates the level of self-fertility - stable, partial, low or high. Moreover, this indicator is not constant. In different years and in different climatic zones, a variety can demonstrate different percentages of self-fertility.
Varieties of the European group have a high percentage of self-fertility. Self-sterile, requiring pollination - varieties of the East Asian, Central Asian group.
Self-sterile varieties definitely need pollination, and often help. Thus, it is better to plant apricot trees in groups, and it is necessary to breed varieties with similar flowering periods. In the garden, 2-3, or even 4 pollinating varieties are usually planted within 60-100 m of each other.
The second method of solving the problem would be to graft a branch of another variety into the crown, acting as a pollinator. As a rule, the best pollinators are indicated by the originator - or determined by trial by practicing gardeners.
The following table will help you select a potential pollinator for popular apricot varieties.
| Variety | Recommended Pollinators |
| Academician | Amur, Khabarovsk |
| Iceberg | Lel, Alyosha, Tsarsky |
| Eastern Sayan | Kantegirsky, Kirovets, Sibiryak Baikalova |
| Countess | Monastyrsky, Triumph Northern, Favorite, Lel |
| Mountain Abakan | Kantegirsky, Sibiryak Baikalova |
| Lel | Alyosha, Aquarius, Iceberg |
| Best Michurinsky | Northernmost |
| Saratov Ruby | Gourmand, Dessert Golubeva, Triumph Northern |
| Sayan | Kirovets, Gorny Abakan, Sibiryak Baikalova |
| Seraphim | The most northern, Khabarovsk |
| Spicy | Chelyabinsk Early, Kichiginsky |
| Favorite | Monastyrsky, Lel, Tsarsky |
Lack of pollinating insects
The problem occurs in rainy, windy weather, cold weather or hot weather - all this affects the growth of pollinating insects, on which the presence of the ovary depends.
The solution is artificial pollination - the transfer of pollen from one or more pollinating plants. It is carried out three times: on the 2-3rd day of flowering, during mass flowering, and at its end. It is important to carry it out in the morning or evening. For artificial cross-pollination in the garden, you can use brushes, fur puffs or the shaking method.
We recommend reading how to properly carry out artificial pollination.
If the apricot is in no hurry to bloom and does not please with the fruits, perhaps the problem is not with the tree, but with agricultural technology. And an ax is not the best method to correct the situation. Reconsider your growing methods, and it will delight you with a good harvest.
Ways to delay apricot flowering
With a later flowering period, the likelihood of frost decreases, thus it is possible to preserve more ovary and increase the yield of apricots. How to do it? There are several practice-tested answers to this question:
- Summer pruning. Pruning young branches carried out from mid-May to early June will delay the development of secondary shoots and stimulate the formation of flower buds on second- and third-order branches. This will ensure that flowers bloom later in the spring. The shoots need to be cut to one third of their length.
- Graft. This method is more complicated, especially for novice gardeners. An early-blooming apricot should be grafted onto a late-blooming plant. It is better to choose a rootstock among apricots, cherry plums, plums, sloe, sand cherry, and zherdels (wild apricots).
- Mulching with sawdust. To perform protection, the tree trunk circle is mulched with manure or peat. Then the snow is raked under the tree and compacted (layer up to 30 cm). It is sprinkled with sawdust and covered with snow again. As a result, the sawdust freezes into a single layer, which will delay the melting of snow in the spring. In cold soil, the root system will awaken later, which means the flowering of the tree will be delayed.
- Whitewashing the trunk with slaked lime with the addition of manure or clay. It will prevent the trunk from heating up in the first sun and will delay the blooming of the buds.
Whitewashing the trunk with slaked lime with the addition of manure or clay will delay the flowering period of apricots
Ice glaze protects buds from frost
Autumn care: what is its peculiarity
The main task of a gardener is to prepare for winter. The question arises: how to properly prune an autumn apricot? Locate and cut off any injured or disease-damaged stems.
When the leaves fall, the area is cleared of the remains, and the soil in the tree trunk circle is dug up. Preventive spraying will not be superfluous - it will help deal with pathogens that could take refuge for the winter.
Features of growing apricots (video)
If the apricot bloomed before frost
The following agricultural practices will help protect already flowering trees from frost:
- Use of covering materials. Not every tree can be covered, but for young trees this method can, of course, be used. For large trees, try to provide at least a “dome” covering the upper surface of the crown.
White dense covering material helps retain heat and protect apricot flowers from freezing
Smoking is one of the ways to protect a blooming garden from returning frosts
Video: how to protect trees from frost
Why doesn't apricot bloom?
In order for an apricot to bloom on your site, you need:
- choose a tree of the variety that matches the climate of the area and the growing conditions on the site;
- satisfy all the needs of the plant in terms of soil quality, lighting, protection from winds, and so on;
- apricot pruning, pest and disease control should be carried out in a timely and competent manner;
- Regularly, but not excessively, feed the tree with all the necessary fertilizers.
It happens that the gardener has done everything for the apricot: he acquired an excellent variety for the given area, chose the right place, and adhered to all the conditions when planting. But the tree has been growing for several years and does not bloom. The reasons for this situation may be different:
- Your pet has not yet become an “adult”. As a rule, apricot produces its first harvest when it reaches three to eight years, but in some trees fruiting occurs later for various reasons.
- Perhaps the tree is depleted by gum disease (gumosis), which is caused by frost damage or infection. This can also happen due to improper pruning, sunburn, frostbite or pest damage.
Increased gum production may be one of the reasons for the lack of flowers on apricots
Optimal growing conditions
Thanks to breeding techniques, gardeners have the opportunity to make apricots adapt to virtually any type of climate without causing damage to the crop. If an apricot does not bear fruit, then almost always the reason is the absence of all the necessary optimal climatic conditions.
Before growing apricots, you need to make sure that the corresponding plot of land is dominated by light loamy and loamy soils, slightly alkaline soils with the presence of humus, nitrogen, fluorine and potassium, weakly carbonate soils, the acidity of which is neutral. If the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, then it is unlikely that any harvest will be achieved.
First of all, we should not forget that apricot came to us from southern countries. This means that it will only grow if the following factors are present:
- Groundwater must be at a depth of at least 10 m;
- Lighting should also be optimal and uniform;
- The presence of persistent protection from winds of varying strength (a high fence, preferably white).
Thanks to the white color, fruiting increases due to the fact that in summer and sunny periods the sun's rays are reflected more intensely from the surface of the white fence and the apricot trees receive more heat and light.
Spraying flowering apricots
During the flowering period, apricots, as a rule, are not sprayed so that chemicals do not get into the ovaries and then into the fruits. In addition, such processing of wood can harm pollinating insects, which will sharply reduce the yield.
An exception may be the next stage of the fight against moniliosis. If the first phases of treatment were previously carried out, then it is during the flowering period that another spraying is carried out. But at the same time, they use Fundazol in a concentration of 0.1% (5 g per 5 liters of water), which is the least toxic to bees and other insects that pollinate apricot flowers. After such an event, the tree will be provided with two weeks of protection from monilia.
Apricots are sprayed during flowering to protect against moniliosis.
Growing apricot from seed
For cultivation, it is best to use a variety that has proven itself well in your area.
After we have decided on the variety, we begin to prepare the planting material.
It is important to know: to check the suitability of a seed, split it and try it. If the kernel turns out to be bitter, then we send it to the trash can, and if it turns out to be sweet, we plant it
Remember that some fruits may fail, so before planting you should play it safe and plant several seedlings.
1). The highest quality are sweet fruits. First, wash each seed and place it in a bowl with clean water. The seeds that float up are dummies, we get rid of them.
2). Next, we leave the selected seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 15 hours (for sterilization).
3). Let's move on to soaking. Keep the seeds in warm water for a week. We change the water every day.
4). The last stage is stratification. To do this, we put the prepared material in a sealed bag and leave it in the refrigerator for 3 months, after which we plant it.
Planting in a pot.
1). We lower the soil to the bottom and leave 5 cm for sowing.
2). Add 3 seeds to each container and cover the remaining 5 cm with earth.
3). We water each pot and cover it with film.
4). From time to time we moisten the soil, and with the appearance of the first shoots we get rid of the film.
For successful flowering, the pots should be placed on a brightly lit windowsill, at a temperature of at least 25 degrees. In warm weather, we take the sowing out onto the balcony.
Transfer. Replanting is best done in mid-spring. An additional advantage is a sunny and sheltered place from unnecessary drafts.
We prepare each hole in advance.
1). Within a month, we dig a hole with a depth of 50 cm and a length of at least 65 cm.
2). We compact the extracted soil together with the fertilizer, creating a small hill in which the seedling will be located.
3). On the prepared soil, pour 2 buckets of water left in the sun.
After planting, regular watering is required (5 times in one season). If no precipitation is visible, then you can do this more often.
Apricot feeding after flowering
During the process of flowering and fruit formation, apricot consumes a lot of nutrients. Of course, in this situation, the gardener must support the tree by feeding it with the necessary fertilizers. After flowering, nitrogen-containing preparations continue to be applied:
- saltpeter (urea) - to maintain active growth;
- organic substances (mullein, chicken droppings) - so that the plant has all the necessary elements for the formation of fruits.
In order for the fruit to set well on the apricot after flowering, you need to feed the tree
Both before and after flowering, it is recommended to use up to 30 liters of solution for each apricot tree, which contains:
- 10 liters of water;
- 2 tablespoons of ammonium nitrate;
- 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate.
The dissolved substances are poured into a furrow dug around the perimeter of the tree crown. When the solution is absorbed, you need to pour in a liter jar of ash or a glass of dolomite flour.
To get a good harvest of apricots every year, it is not enough just to water and fertilize. In spring, apricot trees need protection from frost. Simple agronomic techniques will help protect delicate flowers from the effects of cold. And already in the middle of summer, the apricot will thank the gardener with juicy and sweet fruits.
- Author: Maria Sukhorukikh
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The value of culture
Apricot fruits are consumed fresh, dried, and also used for canning: they are processed into marmalade, marshmallows, jam, filling for candies, etc. They are also used to make juices, wines and liqueurs (there is even a special type of liqueur - apricotine). The fruits are used for drying mainly in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Dried fruits without seeds, in the form of halves, are called dried apricots, and with seeds - apricots (in Central Asia, the word “apricot” is the main name for apricot).
Apricot fruits occupy one of the first places among fruit species in terms of nutritional and medicinal value.
There is evidence that they contribute to the preservation of youth and, in general, longevity, and at the same time have a wonderful taste. Observation of the diet of the inhabitants of the Indian Hunza Valley and one of the Pakistani tribes, where the average life expectancy is 85-90 years, showed that apricot occupies the main place among their food products. Something similar is observed in other regions where fresh or dried apricots are regularly used as food.
